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Seriously I'd get some copper grease on the back of those pads. I've only ever had brake squeal once before I routinely did this and never had the problem again.

Great advice from Terry and BLS as usual. If your temps were fine before the coolant change, and you didn't mention there was a problem before, it might simply be a case that you haven't burped the system properly (BLS point 4) Remember to burp you cooling system by blipping the throttle hard a couple times and massaging the hoses. Cranking the bike over sideways also helps get air bubbles out. This could also lead you back to BLS point 2.

yeah i tried it without the backing plate to rule them out and the problem persists. As it does not affect the performance i think i will just roll with it and change compound next pad change.

I'm selling the left and right hand mirrors from my 94 VFR . Both mirrors are in good to excellent shape, no cracks, glass side is excellent, light scratches on the back side, not very visable though. $50 for both, buyer pays shipping cost. Will not ship outside of US.

If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF or below 180ºF then trouble shooting is in order: Continuous engine temps above 220ºF or 104ºC is a problem and the proper order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch... Engine temps below 180ºF or 82ºC is also a problem... it means that the moisture produced during combustion is not getting hot enough to evaporate out the pipe as steam... instead that moisture will migrate to the oil and produce a milky white contamination... Note normal by products of combustion is water... . Every gallon of gas creates roughly 8 pounds of water vapor... we all have witnessed water escaping out of tail pipes on cold mornings... The sequence of events to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty temp meter... 2)Thermostat stuck open... 3)Faulty fan switch... (stuck on)

32,250 miles on the bike 13,200 miles on the FH020AA I wasn’t expecting a regulator issue that’s for sure. The battery was 5 years old when I replaced it a couple weeks or so ago. Maybe a combination of a slowly failing stator and an older battery the RR wasn’t happy. The battery has always been kept on a Tender when not ridden and was still “ok” but I know with its age it was a matter of time.

#GTMAN, No idea why filters cost so much (other than "capitalism"). My filter cost about $61 (USD) on Amazon. I've had no problems with residue in the tank using water, cider vinegar, water, and then gasoline. Good luck with getting her back on the road again!

Thats neat! We cant filter through traffic in Quebec so we're stuck like a car. I dont knownif id be willing to. Courtesy on the road is not common sens here.

Lower temperatures would indeed be very welcome. When passing traffic jams (allowed in the Netherlands), temperatures went up quickly in summer. I installed a Noctua NF-F12 (IP67) and designed/printed brackets from polycarbonate for mounting:

Curious... how many miles on the bike and also miles since the R/R change? Yours is the first ever heard about the FH020 giving up ghost... -I'm running the same 6ish years and its still fine. btw - suggest you add a digital voltmeter up front to monitor while you ride. There's lots of choices...

I never payed attention to milage so i wont be able to report. Mohawk said he was getting more power, better milage and cooler engine temps. I expect the rapid bike / mtb to adapt instantly, we'll see. As for the cooling situation, i already fitted mine with a pusher SPAL high cfm fan, a small computer fan on the other side and a lower switch that turns the fans on at 95c and off at 90c. I can withstand traffic with this setup which i couldn't before.

Would love to hear some longer term experience on milage and how well the Rapidbike is able to autotune to this new situation. I would expect a significant adjustment.

Good to hear you found the culprit! We learn the most from our mistakes.

Ok, quick update. I tested the RR, it’s junk & smelled burnt, initial tests of the stator were promising with resistance and nothing to ground but……… running VAC is a bit low. At 1900rpm it’s running 10.8-11.0vac and at 5000rpm it’s running 33.6-35.0vac. I’m ordering an SH847 and will be looking for a shop to rewind the stator.

Solved. The bike fired right up. Problem was that i can be quit stupid sometimes. Did you know that if you mix fuel tank air vent and MAP sensor tube your bike run like shit? The MAP tube even have some red paint on it like the sensor to match it. Im not proud of to admit it but it is what it is. Now im more knowledgeable in the TB tubing stuff. And i took the TB on and off so many times this week that i can do it in no time now. Thank you for your willingness to help anyway!

Just picked up the red to keep the black and blue company. Sold a previous blue 5th gen and red 4th gen. Need something to do when retired 8P

Maybe you can follow the self diagnostic procedure. If the ECM has self diagnosis memory data, you will get some blinks of the FI light which links to a cause.

Update; it was a sticking fuel pump relay. Tapped it several times which freed it up and bike now starts again. Thanks everyone for your help.

Cheers for the info Terry.

Hi Worfje, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I’m hoping this. It’s taking a charge now but time will tell and once I check charging while running with the R/R disconnected. If it’s a bad battery I’ll swap it out. I deal a lot with Interstate so figured I give it a shot, an AGM dry version adding the solution before installing letting it set and then on the Tender for a couple weeks or so waiting for time to ride.

Hi Bronco, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

A 5/8" master would bring the master/slave area ratio right back to stock. The 6th gen stock operates 5 pistons up front (unlike the 5th gen which does 4).

2002-2005 VFR800 Engine Management Schematic - ECU pins and coloring corrected View File This is a correction to the diagram released by Honda in 2002. It now has accurate pin numbering and wire colours according to the European 2002-2005 wire setup. This routing is tested and works with both the 38770-MCW-D02 and 38770-MCW-D03 ECUS. American or other ECUs are similar but without HISS and slightly different wire colouring (two black and yellow wires in connector B, for example). Black connector: A Grey connector: B Submitter Sobu Submitted 05/15/2025 Category Owners Manuals and other