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Great first post!

Hey All, I rode across the country on my fifth gen (which just hit 100,000 miles) in the summer of 2024, it was a wild trip full of adventure, highlights included doing high speed runs on the Bonneville Salt Flats, some questionable off road riding, tons of amazing National Parks and technical winding roads, and capping it off with completion of my first Iron Butt Association challenges. I had an unplanned chain replacement and tire issues, but the bike itself was rock solid on the 10,000 mile journey, even at 26 years old with ~87k miles on it at the start - gotta love VFRs. I posted a full recap of the trip with photos/videos on ADVRider (link below) if you're interested in reading more about it: https://advrider.com/f/threads/balt...-back-on-a-1998-vfr800-may-june-2024.1785705/ I also put all my gopro videos from the trip in this youtube playlist: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9DvxzVIwTSC5lZQXAICLcjH6-gFGpymF&si=yMuUjMQZ-fQx25qh Here's a few pictures of the journey:

Update. Went for a 160 mile ride today. Limited access highway (101) and twisty roads (128). Pretty happy with the device so far: -The screen is great. Excellent definition, clarity, and absolutely no glare no matter where the sun was. (sometimes I couldn't see the Zumo at all if the sun was behind me) -I went for the 5" screen, not the 7" which I felt would be overkill, would block the bike's main screen, and be blocked by my tank bag. It's great. Small fonts, but my face is only about a foot from the screen when riding so all good. -I installed my Cardo comm (Q-Solo) on my helmet and quickly realized that yeah, I still don't want to listen to music while riding. Or take that call that popped up. But it worked. -All the usual CarPlay stuff worked fine: traffic, route planning, time to arrival, speed limits, etc. I did find that if you twist the throttle it takes the device a few seconds to catch up to reporting your actual speed. So, obviously, never twist the throttle while using this device. -The major flaw (today) was that my gloves don't work on the touch screen, but that's easily solved. Lot's of touch screen friendly gloves available.

I have heard odd noises when the solenoid that operates the vacuum flapper on the airbox moves. In neutral or clutch-in, the flapper should default open, but if your clutch switch is a little dirty it can oscillate on/off or open/closed; on my 5th gen that presented as more of a crackle or buzz. The solenoid is mounted to the right of the airbox so that may be the source of the noise. Not sure whether that would afect the idle however. For a surging idle I 'd suggest checking the starter valve synchronisation.

Hello everyone, I recently started a blog, and my latest post is about a common issue with the Honda VFR800 VTEC: generator and regulator problems. Last year, I bought my VFR800, and soon after, the generator, regulator, and even some cables burned out. I took it to a mechanic, and he somehow fixed it. However, this year, the generator and regulator failed again. This time, I decided to tackle the repair myself. I did a lot of research, and that experience led me to write this blog post for other new or existing owners. Please keep in mind that I'm not a professional motorcycle mechanic; I'm just a fellow rider. So, this blog post isn't an expert guide, but rather what I, as an amateur, was able to learn and piece together from my own experience and research. I've put a lot of effort into explaining the issues and potential solutions, hoping it might save someone else some headaches. Could you please take a look at the Google-translated version of my blog post? I'd really appreciate any feedback you might have. Specifically, I'm looking for your honest opinion on whether it's useful, and if you spot any major mistakes or misunderstandings I might have included. Here's the link to the Google-translated post: https://muhelymorzsak-webnode-hu.translate.goog/l/honda-vfr-800-vtec-generator-issues/ Thanks a lot for your help! Best regards, Lajos

Thanks.

6th gen VFR800 A3, yesterday when out on the bike, I hear a "Tick" Tock" noise from under the right fairing only when blipping throttle at lights and junctions really.. Almost like a relay kicking in and out and if I hold the throttle steady at standstill about 1300 revs the engine is surging up and down at the same time as the tick tock noise. The bike runs fine except for that.

Have you tried Givi? They're right here in Charlotte, NC. Also one in U.K. https://www.givi.co.uk/

This popped up on FBMP.. https://www.facebook.com/share/1C3rnAUSUN/

looking to purchase a replacement kit for vfr800 1998 -2001 Givi 257fz rack replacement fitting kit nuts bolts spacers, and idea pls, or one of the spacers that is on the side.

If you're after a Givi one, I think it's the 1132FZ.

That's a really good idea I may do that same thing and it'd also be a great way to keep people from stealing it as well especially if I hide it where the relay goes. Ill keep you posted I got it half way torn apart because im currently vinyl wrapping the ferrings and gas tank. Who knows when this bike last ran, all the fluids were nasty and the guy I got it from in Chicago said it was his dad's but his dad got dementia and he had to sell it before he left for the army.

Hey.... Jumping on said RC31. I'll check in later. But awesome progress!!

Now that it has ran you can plug the relay back in and feel if the pump clicks every now and then while it runs and starts to empty the bowls.

Most of my bikes have a toggle wired in parallel so I can prime the fuel system after winter storage AND get home when the Fuel Cut Relay fails in the middle of nowhere or a floating bridge. Both scenarios are true.

Ok. Very cool!!! Possibly. You can run the bike no problem with the relay bypassed. When the pump reaches a pressure it will stop and then pump when it senses it needs to when the line pressure drops. The relay is a 'safety feature" to keep the pump from running in the event of an accident where the key is on and the pump could continue to pump fuel into a bad situation. The Hawk GT I'm riding today just has a toggle in place of a relay in case I'm working on the fuel system with the key on.

20250708_185007.mp4

Holy crap it started thank you so much. Does that mean I have a bad wire running to that relay? Like I said the relay is new and I traced the black and blue wire then tested for resistance and it was like .2. So thatd mean the black wire has a bad spot somewhere correct?

So jumping the black/blue + black wire worked, im currently trying to start it now

Ok jumping wires now. I had to edit that post that you just responded to. Im tinkering with it now. I didn't realize the battery voltage was dropping so much

Also realize that with the relay in place, the only time the pump will operate is when it is being cranked or running (That ignition signal we talked about earlier). If the carbs are empty or need some filling, it will take a bit of cranking to get enough fuel in the carbs to start. Also I have found that if you are trying to prime a dry system (lines and pump) sometimes that fuel tank and petcock just won't "start" flowing even tho the pump is trying to pull some fuel. I sometimes have to put a rag around my air nozzle in the fuel filler opening and "pressurize" it just a little and then the fuel start flowing no problem. Good luck!

Unplug the relay and jump the black and black/blue wires with a wire at the female connector. With the key on, and the relay bypassed, the pump should operate. The colors of the three wires change some across the models, but I should be close. You can hurt anything trying different combos. If there is a yellow/red wire present, it should be the other two. Basically, when the yellow/red wire (or whatever it is on yours) is getting a signal from the ignition, it energizes the relay to allow 12v to the pump by "connecting" the other 2. Those are the two wires you are trying to jump. Report back.

@Captain 80s I got that issue fixed now the only thing that I can't seem to figure out is why the fuel pump isn't pumping when trying to start the bike. Battery is brand new and has a 13.6 voltage until i hook it up to the bike then it continues to drop stopping around 10.3, starter relay is brand new, fuel cut relay is new, bench tested the fuel pump and it works as well but im not getting 12 volts to the fuel pump itself. Is there a hidden fuse somewhere or possibly a ground that needs checked?

I hope his wife likes doing the dusting.

I got Hepco and Becker. Can be done with or without top rack. I chose without. The racks, after initial installation, can be removed or installed in about 5 minutes or less.