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Unfortunately, new OEM bodywork is now very scarce for these bikes, so don't count on being able to buy new fairing panels from Honda. Ciao, JZH

Finally it's up on the table I will also pickup the spacers to fit a CBR F2 rear wheel today, they are ready, through they will be needed for the Red one...

Well as you know all progress is not happening as hoped. My health issues party as other stuff com in and take my time, like these car rims son got for free, because of the state they are in and he has no summer wheels for his car as one rim got damaged last fall. So I promise to take a try to get them back to some sort of accepted state, here picture of difference after little more that one hour of sandpapering whit fiber as finer sandpaper And then some polishing Turned out pretty ok I think Then in a dark hour promised a friend to look into his 1986 FZ750 running issues, having ignition issues He actually has been riding it last summer! He is not that peaky on looks I think. He has replaced one pickup coli, but measure of them says 147/150ohms and should be 190ohms +-10% so out of spec as pretty hard to find. Also it doesn't help the rubber boots between air filter box as carbs are rock hard Clamps missing and duck tape holds air filter box in place, oh my.... They (the rubbers) are actually still awable but quite salty in price.... So I swamped bikes around a bit as it turns out I have to wait for the Transalp parts to be painted for some time, and it was only bike to just ride (ok red VFR is in ridable state but want to upgrade it before riding, stock front suspension to hash....) I wanted the easiest bike to my work table to have a ride, and that's the RWB RC24 So many not finished bikes in the back room And one on the floor in garage Will go to a friend today to get the spacers as sprocket holder modified to get rear wheel in center, but still lot's to do after that before rideable. I actually has been tempted to buy a cheap rideable bike as actually a few has turned up that are models I like, but after all I don't need one more motorcycle, actually plan is to lower the number of them..... Also these days as oil prices got shy high and I have a oil heated house I need to save for ordering that for next winter....

More parts arrived and more adjustments going on. It kind of bugged me that the left front peg mount didn’t go on as neatly as the right. So I took it off and had a close look. At some point the bracket was tightened while not lined up with the stud, twisted the whole bracket. Creative untwisting ensued. Another take a deep breath couple hours was cleaning up overspray powder coating. I guess saying protect all machined surfaces was not clear enough. At least the price was very good. I got all the brake lines hooked up. Pushed the brake pedal and it hit the exhaust pipe. Fussed with the pipe to no avail then stood back looked more carefully and notice the right peg and bracket are pushed in and down. The right bracket was mounted fine on the alignment stud but the that peg got pushed in when the bike was red. The Delkevic exhaust was just 2mm over from where the stock pipe was not hitting it. Disassemble, brake pedal off, 15” adjustable wrench on brake pivot, 24” pipe wrench on the adjustable, then bend into place. Next the gas tank won’t set all the way down. I play with this for quite a while. Then I notice the overflow line is somewhat crushed. I very carefully look at the pictures in the shop manual and notice that when a previous changed to the silver fuel tank the clip that holds the line in place was at the wrong bolt. Moved it over and the tank set all the way down. You know, without using the bolts to drive it home. The 847 r/r arrived today. Hooked it up, started the bike, the 6th gen new oem stator and eBay rotor works. But the bike is idling at 2000 rpm. The smaller hose that angles up off of the 6th gen thermostat housing pushed the fuel return line lightly against the idle control plate. It could not return against the idle stop screw. Fortunately I was able to pull the fuel return line down out of the way with zip ties. It’s good for now though at some point I will put in a new maybe 1” longer line that will loop more naturally out of the way. What next? The chain guard tire hugger assembly. I had to elongate a mounting hole that was not lined right. I changed some mounting points to use shoulder bolts and rubber washers to positively secure the bolts without undue pressure on the fiberglass. Overall this is a really nice piece that I picked up on eBay. They produce on order. Took about five weeks. No problem. Tanklock bag came. Really nice system. Starter valves set today. Good to hear the engine running. The chain and sprockets looked good until I found one frozen link with the roller flopping around. Ok the new chain and sprockets look up to par with the powder coated swingarm. Tail fairing lined up. I’ll hook everything there up tomorrow. This is taking more than I thought it would but I am getting an equal amount of satisfaction. I cleaned up the freshly coated fork lowers, sent the forks out to Traxxion. Maybe four weeks until they come back.

I was not happy with the offset of this pedal though the length was good. The earlier steel pedal works well though not as attractive as the forged aluminum one.

From EBAY 08U72-MKN-D50 This is a partial kit with the electronic pressure switch, the transmission clevis, and the threaded push rod. The pedal, Pivot bolt spring washer and spacer washer will have to be purchased separately. The transmission clevis that comes in the kit will need an extension bolt M8 X1.0 X40mm and a couple of M8 nuts(stainless steel is best) to space the switch pivot away from the frame. Pedal 24705-MGY-D20 is the best pedal to use but is unavailable in the US and pricey on euro sites. Pivot bolt 90113MCF000 Wave washer 90505MBW000 Washer 9410308000 Shift rod 90165MGYD20 (Not verified) Not needed if you modify the one that comes with the 08U72-MKN-D50 kit I found a used Shifter pedal (Steel), pivot bolt and seals for a 1996 CBR600 that works much better. PEDAL, GEARSHIFT 24705-MAL-600 NOTE: the shifter push rod provided is too long. You will need to measure and cut the rod to length to 70mm and re-thread the M6 right hand thread end. When cutting be sure to leave the left hand thread end untouched. Left hand thread cutters and left hand nuts are hard to find

Looks and sounds good. 😀

Sorry guys, I meant to get back to this a few days ago. I ended up going with a Rick's rectifier. Wired it in and I'm getting a steady 14.5 volts at 5000 rpm. Looks like this on is solved. Thanks for the help everyone.

Hi Alessandro, welcome to the forum and congrats on your excellent future choice for a 5th gen VFR800. Regarding to riders position/ergonomics: I am 1.93 m long and do commuting also (90 km) without any problem. The mileage I get is about 1:15 (1 liter gasoline needed for 15 km). In my personal experience valve checks (3 in total over the past) showed no need for adjustment and now at roughly 118000 km. Personally, I would look for 1998/1999 since no wax unit/auto choke and no O2 sensors. Good luck!

Welcome Alessandro. As you are intending to commute and tour which I assume means clocking up a few km, my inclination would be to buy the bike with the lowest mileage and/or the best bodywork. After a few years of ownership, any purchase price difference will be immaterial. I've personally never had an issue with the 5th gen stator, but I would suggest careful assessment of the alternator connector (these corrode and sometimes melt) and a thorough service especially of brakes and the cooling system as neglect in these areas can lead to a range of problems. As you are looking at 2000-2001 models these have a the auto fast idle system that requires a clean cooling system to function well, as there are small hoses high up in the system that can get fouled and block. The linked brakes work well when properly cared for but are less forgiving than others if they are neglected. Valve clearances are actually easy to do on the 5th gen (aside from front head access) if you fancied some DIY; the gear drive cams make this much more approachable, and the rear head is very accessible to work on. As to the riding position, this is going to be quite different to the Z900 which I assume is an upright/naked position; the VFR will be more wrist-heavy and may have a bit less legroom. In my younger years I had no issue with any VFR but now I'm over 60, I prefer to ride with after-market raised bars. The VFR80 is a very well-engineered motor; my own 5th gen has 92000km but feels like it will last forever. I have replaced steering head bearings and recently the clutch plates, and my bike has an aftermarket Nitron shock, but is still on all original brake, vacuum and cooling hoses.

Hello! Our European friends will chime in on this one....any photos will help too.

Hi there, i'm Alessandro, from Rome, Italy. I'm looking for a 5th gen 2000-2001, coming from a Z900RS, but i need your advice here. First of all, i would use it for commuting, weekend trips and to go also around the city. Sometimes i carry my wife with me, or my son, is the bike comfortable for them? Coming from a straight riding position, is the VFR so different in the ergonomics? I'm 174 cm tall. At the moment I've found three options near me: -2001 model, 42000km, the bike is overall in good shape, but it fell from the central stand, damaging with little scratches the side fairing. The owner made himself lots of work, but the valves hasn't been checked yet and he hasn't been able to tell me the history of the VFR. The bike had at least 3 owners through the years. No r/r or stator changed. 2100 € is his last price. https://www.subito.it/vi/639944263.htm -2000 model, 93000km, this bike also felt from the central stand, with damage to the left turn signal and the side of the fairing. The bike has been stored in a garage in the last two years, the owner has made some works to restore it, like replacing steering bearings, wheel bearings, brake pads, battery and starter motor. Than he dropped unfortunately the bike.R/R replaced a few years ago, the stator is stock. He told me that he can sell me the bike at around 1300 € https://www.subito.it/vi/639563472.htm -2001 model, single owner, all maintenance done and documented, but the owner slipped, damaging the paint on the fairings. No valve check yet, the stator has been replaced 15 years ago, the price of the ad is negotiable. I should see the bike tomorrow morning. https://www.subito.it/vi/550670259.htm What do you think would be the best bargain? Or should i wait for something else? Thanks very much

Correct. And yes, welcome to the Forum.

Thanks so much for the quick response and info! Looking forward to getting the bike back on the road as soon as I can.

It sounds awesome, really deep with a slight rasp. I thought the phone mic didn't pick the sound up properly but it was the phone speaker that didn't reproduce the sound properly; on the laptop, it sounds much better. 20260330_102125.mp4

Fitted

Oh man!. if my bikes got that dirty, I would cry. Good Idea with the mudflap although I have a carbon hugger on this bike. I do have tractor tyre inner tubes lying about. Perfect thick rubber and plenty flexy. cheers from Bonnie Scotland.

Look what the nice man from Belgium sent me...

Well, turns out that whatever I have done with the Gold Valves simply does not work. They are not generating any meaningful compression damping when riding, and as a result the fork dives at an alarming rate when I tap the brakes hard, which causes the tyre to skip and engage the ABS. Not dangerous, but far from ideal. So I pulled the forks apart (again) and have refitted the stock compression valves. I had a decent 300km ride on Saturday and the fork is itself behaving better on bumps and especially on the brakes. I then took my 5th gen out for a ride around the neighbourhood (it is not technically road-registered but that is only a problem if I get caught...) and the difference in suspension feel is stark; to be fair, the 5th gen has a full Racetech set up front and a Nitron R3 shock, but it reminded me how much better the 1200 could be if I can get it right. I have contacted Jamie Daugherty as he has previously offered to sell me valve parts for the 1200, and I think I need some expert input at this point. I'm still waiting on the Veridian cruise control to arrive, it has left Canada and I don't think it was going via the Strait of Hormuz so should be with me soon (I hope). Once that is in hand I will strip the bike and fit the CC and the PAIR blanks. I stalled out on the lower pegs, no issues fitting the parts and the drop looks useful, but the brake pedal is already set to the lowest height possible with the stock pegs and unless I pull the locknut out of the adjuster, won't go much lower. I will consider my options on that one.

According to Honda service manual: nothing mentioned on lubrication. According to Haynes: just clean and dry for mounting plate and tank surfaces. Congrats on your new bike and welcome to the forum.

TLDR: should I be putting some type of grease/lubricant on the fuel pump gasket and fuel gauge sensor O-Ring? if so, any recommendations on a certain type of lube? Hi all! I just bought a 1998 VFR800 Fi that had been sitting in the guys garage for years... I noticed rust in the tank and decided to take it off an clean the rust out.. I removed the Fuel pump and gauge sensor float. I then replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump sock... I bought a new gasket for the fuel pump assembly. my question is, should I be putting some type of grease/lubricant on the fuel pump gasket and fuel gauge sensor O-Ring? When I took them apart, there seemed to be some residual grease around each of them. If I am supposed to grease/lube it, any recommendations on a certain type of lube? thanks for reading!

I thought you were joking, I didn't realize that you were really asking that. And that you are gonna try and limp it to your next place. If so, yes, move those components to a different spot and scuff everything up a bit. You can't do anymore damage than what has already happened. I'm not very optimistic after hearing about (and seeing) what else you found. Stay off any main roads that don't have places to pull over if you get out of the driveway.

Well Cap I did sent a more clarity Pic of the disc layed out on the table ☝🏽 where you saw em color marked. I didn't realize there was still a steel plate and friction pad baked onto the basket and upon removing it was very thin smooth padding 1 side and completely gone on the other. Is there anything I can do like put a better pad into the inner hub as all disk are the same on 2000 models just to get it 3 miles out?