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I de-linked my brake system when I did my suspension. I'm now running F4i lowers up front with DMr cartridges, 954 calipers, 600RR front master cylinder, F4i rear master cylinder, DMr rear shock and the OE rear caliper that's been drilled for a single brake line (routed through the swingarm) with AS3 braided lines throughout. Pretty much everything I've done is colour-by-numbers, but it works very well. You couldn't pay me to go back to the CBS.

It's been two and a half years since I bought this bike and put it on the back burner. I had three other projects in the queue to finish first, so I mostly left it alone. While I was finishing up my second '83 CB1123 Rest-mod, I started pulling parts off this one to prep for powder coating and rebuilding. So far the entire brake system is done, along with the rearsets. Brake rotors were surface ground and then I PC'd the centers. Carbs went off to Mike Nixon for rebuilding and are now waiting to be installed. I still have to adjust the valves and PC the valve, clutch, and alternator covers, along with the wheels and fork legs. I'm in no rush to get this one done, but I expect to be finished a year from now. In the meantime, a good friend in Texas who runs a Chevrolet body shop insisted that I ship all the bodywork down to him for repainting last year. In exchange, I did PC work for him and provided parts for his 900F and 1100F projects. My bodywork looked decent front feet, but there were some scrapes, cracks, and broken tabs. He started out by fixing all the cracks and made new tabs to replace the broken ones. He has the same bike, so he used it for checking decal alignment after painting. All that's left is the decal for the rear cowl and clearcoating, then he's giving me the bike and shipping it up to me with the new bodywork installed. This is actually safer than boxing everything up and shipping. When I finish my bike, I'll sell the spare to recoup the shipping cost. (It was a runner.) I may not have any updates for a while, but thought I'd share a picture of his beautiful paint work. I just wish he was local so he could help me paint an old car I'm restoring.

Hi there! I know, its a bit strange to find incorrect procedure in workshop manual 22 years later. But no one did it, and I want to share my story now. According to 5th gen manual, 3rd cylinder vacuum pressure should be dropped to 20mm compare to 1st. Most of us read it as dropped DOWN, and translated manuals have it mentioned as LESS vacuum for 3rd and 4th. When I got my bike, it had flat sync for all cylinders. I did full maintenance some time later, through workshop manual, include starter valves synchronization. In very first day after, I noticed some surging when low throttle, it was a bit twitchy during city riding. Very uncomfortable to keep some speed at low throttle opening. Most of internet discussions about nervous VFR had tips about PAIR blocking and other redneck mods. Some of them suggested to always keep revs over 4k, because VFR doesn't love low revs... That's true, but I had very smooth bike before maintenance, even on very low RPM. First - I adjusted flat sync back. It helped me a lot, motorcycle became very friendly again. Then I did it opposite to manual. It means 3rd cylinder adjusted to 20mm MORE vacuum than 1st, and 4th 10mm more than 1st. And the bike is smooth as butter. Even better than flat, and MUCH smoother than official way. From here I want to explain why it helped. In service manual for 5th gen, they showed fuel injection diagrams. It has independent maps for each cylinder. On these graphs you can see - 3rd cylinder get lowest fuel portion, 4th a bit more, and 1+2 even more. I checked it with injector opening time frames. Diagrams are true, 3rd cylinder has less fuel than 1st on idle. For same mix ratio, fuel/air, we should feed less air into 3rd cylinder. It means we need close starter valve a bit, as result we will have MORE vacuum. It looks like they forgot to explain, what means "dropped". If your vacuum gauge has movement from right (0) to left, more vacuum will drop indicator down... If it is gravity meter, less vacuum will drop level down. There is no right description, more or less vacuum you should set with word "dropped". I'm pretty sure, they had some problems with that description, and maybe complains about flat is working better than described way. And finally they removed it from manual for next generations... P.S. I installed ABS brake system to my 5th gen VFR, with very minor modifications. If it would be interested - let me know)

86 VFR750, 12K . Wasn't really looking at adding another bike. This was a project bike owned by a friend of mine, who passed away this winter. It runs, but has been sitting for a while (it has zero mile Dunlops that are dry rotted). Its all there except 4 fastenings. That said its been down on both sides at some point, then mostly restored. Looks good at 6 ft., but definitely a Rider.

Not sure how to answer your question, but the job is really just figuring out what OEM Honda bits you want to use and then get buying parts for the build. Do a bit of searching, there is probably a hundred threads on the suspension and brake upgrade.

There's guys who are fans of the LBS like my friend raYzerman and guys who hate it. Like me. When I started looking for a 5th gen, I knew before I even found one, that the LBS was going in the trash. If you do the delete, please do it properly with a fork swap and upgrade the rear caliper. I am not a fan of the kits that just replumb the hydraulics.

A small update. I've inspected the rear valve clearances just to keep an eye on things. It's very comforting to see that they have barely moved and are not getting tighter. The dynamic compression and the combustion temperature have surely passed what Honda had intended, but the v4 does not mind a 100% power increase at all. All fluids are now fresh, the tires from 2013 have been binned, and the 2 year old fuel was siphoned and put in my lawnmower and snowblower. I've also had some small vibrations (from a fistant memory) when braking - measuring it with a dial gauge it turns out I have to scrap my second set of EBC rotors. I blamed EBC on the first pair, now I don't know if its the beating it gets or if it is a quality issue... The plans for the future does include a total brake swap so I probably won't bother getting new ones - but if I do I'll go with brembo for sure! There might be a surprise before/after Dyno in the works [emoji3526]

Det høres kjent ut [emoji846] Vfr800"fi" is the factory name on the European version, of course the fi was short for forced induction... Its been absolutely trouble free after the initial bugs mentioned earlier where worked out. I've worn out 2 belts, and both bearings in the PTO. Still have that same sprocket and chain as pre charger actually. My goal is putting the 200ish crank hp directly on the wheel.

The issue, at least for me, with HiD Xenon is locating the ballast somewhere. It wont fit inside the headlamp unit which means you have to cut the existing headlamp wires and pass the ballast through the waterproof rubber gaiter. Then there is also precious little space to mount the ballast. I'm not 100% happy with where mine is but it's been there several years and seems to be working. It was a tortuous ordeal, involved pulling the front fairing off completely to access the headlamp unit fully, but there may be an easier way now as I fitted this back in the early days. Modern LED are much easier. The one I recently fitted to the high beam was a simple swap, no external ballast, just plug in and go. I don't know if they're putting out enough illumination yet for night riding nor if the beam pattern is affected by the change in bulb type, but I'll take a look at the beam pattern as winter approaches. And the beauty of LED is no warm up time, it's an instantaneous ON, which is perfect for the high beam flash. For the low beam, HiD is ok as it warms up when you turn the ignition on, after that, it's on permanently but again, beam pattern may be an issue. Fortunately, it wasn't for me.

I have a electronic VacuMate, same readings as Carbtune without the fluctuating mechanical bits. Put both on the VFR yesterday, sync was off but not too bad, had lumpy idle. Adjusted to the manual, idles way better, and going to go for a spin....... then I will re-tune to Jkson's method and go for a similar spin...... updates later.

I like sport touring and travelling, so after having a Honda ST1300, Goldwing and two FJR's, as I get older I was looking for a decent sport tourer that was 150 lbs. lighter and still very capable.... so I found this 2009 CBF1000A. Here it is on a trip last year to Ohio. The US did not get this bike, had the identical smaller engined CBF600. Clocks in at 525 lbs., ergos similar to an FJR, but the CBF1000 is my fave and I wouldn't hesitate to take it anywhere. Handles great, goes where you point it, smoothest powertrain ever at any rpm. These can be had here low milers and toy money pricing. Outstanding bike, really. Always wanted a VFR800 5th Gen, so picked up this one with 109k kms (65k miles), and spent last winter stripping it down and cleaning it up. Price was right. Had a Magna restoration project back in the day, fell in love with the V4's. The VFR will be more of a twisty rider for when I go to the good stuff, if I want to, I'll just put both on a trailer and go. Not intending to put bags on it. This pic the day I brought it home, will have to get some more pics later.

He's always busy. Sounds like the same work I had done on mine. You won't regret it, transforms the bike.

Love that color combination. Certainly think if you have that level of paint expertise available it would be logistically easier, and financially less expensive to go that route. Everything done in country, no language miscues, no currency swaps with fees, no shipping issues with possible damage enroute, no customs headaches, no VAT. You are welcome to ask me how I know, but you probably already know the answer, 🙂

Congratulations on your first oil change. It gets easier every time you do it. I've done every oil change on my 3 previous 6gens and the same for my 8gen. It will save you a fortune doing it yourself, and you get to choose what oil goes in. A few Tips for you. - I made up a rough drawing on a piece of cardboard of the R/H side cowl and punched holes through it as to the screw locations, so once removing a screw I pop it into the correct location on my cardboard layout. - Only the R/H Side Cowl needs to come off. (From my ageing memory!) - A Golf Tee is ideal for popping and removing the Trim Clips. - Once all the screws and clips are removed swing the rear of the fairing outward slightly and gently pull rearward. Getting the upper section to come away can be a little tricky, just don't force anything. - Your new oil filter only needs to be very firmly hand tightened. Always check that the removed old oil filter has its O Ring attached and NOT left on the oil filter boss. A light smear of oil should be applied to your new filter O Ring prior to installing. - Have never needed to replace a drain plug washer. If the washer looks fine and hasn't been ridiculously over tightened then there is no need to replace it. The cracks you mentioned could well have been caused by simply screwing the screws in without paying attention to the screw shoulders, if the screws are not nicely centered into the fairing the screw shoulder will catch on the cowl plastic causing the cracking. Serioulsy, once you get the hang of it, it's a simple task. Cheers.

Thanks Luigi. Received exhaust tubes and I made some miscalculations so I'm waiting for the correct size and lengths to get here. Good news is that I think the system will be fairly simple and I have found a good shop willing to help weld it together. They actually manufacture exhausts for harleys and porsches amoung other things. Just have to get a quote once I get it mocked up. If it works, I may be able to offer these as somewhat "slip on" full exhaust. NOTE: you need a stock header and you will have to cut off the rear pipes where they merge. Also, the centerstand mounts on the frame will need to be cut off as well. Mufflers (2" inlet) and hangers will most likely be up to you since I don't have a relationship with where I'm getting mine but who knows. This will be a true dual setup 4-2... pretty much a replica of the factory endurance setup. Who knows how it will sound or run!

Honda certainly had some questionable design choices with the fairing and filter placement that certainly takes the fun out of doing your own oil change. I find the plastic at the ages of these bikes now is getting somewhat brittle too - so small tabs, brackets and thinner sections of the fairings are prone to cracking and breaking sadly. Congrats on getting the job done!

Where's the VF400F?

Hey all, My manufacturer finally came through. Here is the ebay link for any one interested https://www.ebay.ca/itm/124245030466

Dammit! "U.S." model 86 There's probably a VF1000F2 as well?

Less a 1000 for the maintenance you'll have to do

One's lacking? No VF500F2????

Welcome to the club!

1986 VF1000R (x2) 1986 VFR750F (x2) 1986 VFR700F 1986 VFR700FII 1986 VF500F (x2)

another interceptor is a whole lot of fun, the Vtr 2 fifty. it's not a slow bike .

another good source for terminals https://cycleterminal.com/

Maybe give this site a try. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html

My completed bodywork arrived late last week, installed on a spare bike that my painter friend had no use for. It has virtually all the little bits that my bike is missing, so I'll end up with a nice, original VFR when I'm done. Next up, I'll powder coat the wheels, engine covers, sub-frame, fork bits, and rebuild the forks. Most of the remaining parts are already done and in boxes in my shop. Carbs are overhauled and bench sync'd. Goal for completion is spring of 2021 - it will be here before you know it.

Some more images from the Honda.jp website

DIY fittings.... Now I can take (a little) bread, wine and salami with me for picknicking!!!! Observing social distancing of course! Aye, them gentile Scots eh?

Brad71, I am 225mm shorter than you. My VFR has the seat set on low, to make it possible to flat foot when stopped. The knee bend is comfortable enough to allow 7 hour days on the road, if riding interesting roads, when you tend to be moving about on the bike, but not great on freeways. Lifting the seat gives an extra 20 odd mm of leg room, but I doubt that would help you too much. Foot peg lowering kits are also available which would probably give you another 15 to 20mm, without any real issues with lean angles, unless your last name is Rossi. I think they look a bit dodgy! Helibar or Honda bar risers are available for a couple of hundred dollars but again only lift the bars about 20mm. I am a lot closer to 70 than 65, but find the standard height comfortable enough for long tours (Sydney/Perth/Sydney - 2017). The VFR is perfect for the vertically challenged, like me, but maybe not you. Unless yoga and tai chi are your other hobbies! Having said all that, the VFR is a cracker and some guys ride them for close to 200,000kms, without major issues. Picking one up for under $10K, with under 30,000kms should be easy enough to do, and get you plenty of years service. A 2015/2016 should be as good as new. I would make sure the valve clearance has been checked (others might disagree) if it’s done those kms.

I bought mine new April 2020, lockdown and weather has her at 700 odd miles still. First service done and waiting to tour

Another weekend, another long ride. Actually, my longest of the year so far. Yesterday morning, I set off for Zanesville, OH, where Ohio Route 555 begins. I decided to slab it most of the way down, just to make time, so I've have more time to ride the good roads in SE Ohio. I did 555 South to Ohio Route 7, and while taking a break decided where to go next. It had been several years, maybe 10, since I'd done the western portion of Ohio Route 78, so I headed west, again slabbing it to make time. When I got to 78, I took it east all the way to Woodsfield, where 78 intersects with Ohio Routes 800 and 26. BTW, 78 east of Woodsfield is boring. Some nice scenery, but not a challenging road at all. From Woodsfield, I took 800 South to Route 7. The last few miles of 800 are really terrific. I stopped on 7 for a few minutes to contemplate what to do next. I thought about heading east and hitting a few more fun roads, but decided instead to start heading home, as it was already 4 pm and I wanted to get home before dusk. (Deer and rural highways, ya know?) I headed back up 800, and took it well past I-70 before riding some more 2-lanes all the way home. A great day. Felt really good, hitting some nice apexes, and generally riding a little faster than I have been. Not actually fast, of course, but quick for me. One or two "oh crap" moments, but really only one, and that was when the rear tire stepped out an inch on some fine gravel I couldn't see. (It gets really old looking for gravel all the time, especially on right-handers. Such is riding in SE Ohio.) 485 miles for the day, and now I'm over 4,000 for the season so far. I'm a bit over halfway to my goal of 8,000 for 2020. I don't usually set mileage goals, but I really want to see 100,000 on the VFR's odometer this year, as I believe it will be my last with this bike, and 8,000 miles will get me there. It's just about time to move to something with more relaxed ergonomics, but I'm enjoying this one last season with 'Veronica' very much! One other benefit to a good SE Ohio day is the profile of my tires. After my weekend trip to Indiana a couple weekends ago, I noticed my rear tire already starting to square off a bit due to all the straight miles, plus extra weight of the hardbags and their contents. Checked that tire after this latest ride and it's back to being a nice "U" shape! Edited to add: A couple other members have messaged me recently to talk about doing some rides together. I'm up for it, but maybe not an all-day ride. Like many people, riding is partly therapy for me. It's how I get away from it all, and from everyone else. I'm not anti-social, but I really value my 'alone time' sometimes. Of course, we're also in the COVID era, and while I'm not paranoid, hanging out with other people (other than family members) makes me a little nervous. So if you hit me up for a ride and I didn't respond asking if you wanted to go this past weekend (or any other time), please don't be offended or take it personally. As people sometimes say when they end a romantic relationship, it's not you, it's me. 😉

First road trip after lockdown, central Italy, Gran Sasso

Welcome to the club

Congrats, I didn't know they were still making them for sale anywhere. Ducati's recommended oil. With 4 bikes I'm sticking to the dino for the Hondas.

Bought my 02 wrecked with 200 miles on it, rebuilt it and rode the crap out of it until 2016.

Outlaw motorcyclists

Bought new in April 2017.

The lower mounting plates are different shapes, though the mounting lugs look to be the same spacing.

Yeah +1 vote, and it’s worth noting that those schematics don’t illustrate to scale, so while they may appear the same shape some components may be larger or smaller. ...still, if it were me in your boots OP, and presented with the same info and decision, I think I would be tempted to take a leap of faith. Same brand, overlap in terms of production, a lot of cross-over for various bits n pieces / accessories, schematics for this accessory is virtually a Siamese sister.. the risk of incompatibility seems low to me. But it’s you who has to stump up the cash. Sorry if I missed it, but why are you having to consider a VFR1200X top box mount? Is the F version out of stock or somethin? Loving how quickly yours is coming on seen as you’ve only had her all of what, 5mins?! It’s looking the biz mate (tank bag aside [emoji23]). I’m guessing you’ve pulled out a map and started pencilling out a potential route by now! NC500 could be a good choice while international travel is, well, rather tricky shall we say. I was supposed to be on my way to Holland this weekend on my VFR for Moto GP Assen, which obvs ain’t happenin [emoji17] ..had days off work booked for it. Hope I get a refund on the ticket [emoji1694][emoji19] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

21,208 km may seem quite low to most. However, the odometer, on the 6th gen at leas., only has room for 5 digits. It reached 99,999 km or miles, which ever you have it set at, then it rolls to zero and starts over again. Add a 2 to the left side of mine. Yes. It has rolled twice. 221,208 km. This thing, regardless of some pretty severe abuse, runs like a timex watch. I have replaced the stator twice, and had a hell of a time trying to find out what was causing some problems with starting in first gear a while back. That turned out to be a severely won clutch. After the clutch rebuild, the thing ran almost like new again. The Honda tech who worked on it told me I should easily roll that odometer once again. I crashed this thing on some god forsaken road in Baja in October 2018. We just picked it up off the road, well mountain goat trail really, then I just rode it away.

I can't speak for all generations of the VFR, but my 6th gen offers decent weather protection, even with the stock windshield. I can duck down and put my knees in tight to the tank and avoid some rain, at least for a short burst. But riding through a steady rain you're going to get wet. This obviously isn't a full-blown tourer, but it's decent. Same goes for colder weather. I only wish I had heated grips, but I never got around to adding them. Agree. I don't have an aftermarket exhaust, but Jamie rebuilt a rear shock with a stiffer spring for my weight, and one of the best mods on my bike is the Sargent seat. It has lasted years, but probably needs to be redone at this point. But one of the best things about the VFR in my opinion is that you don't see them everyday. I like having a bike that's a little rare where I live. Plus, anytime you go into a shop and start talking to people, when you say you ride a VFR they'll invariably nod and say, "Nice bike." That's pretty cool. As for mileage, it's great to see so many 8th gens with some decent miles already. I don't have a photo, but my 2004 is nearing 96,000 miles. I'm seriously hoping to see 100k on it before the end of the year. I didn't ride much from 2016 to 2018, averaging just 1,500 miles per year, otherwise I'd have hit six figures already. But I'm fairly certain this will be my last season with my VFR, which has been my only bike since August 2006.

75,000k's and purring like a kitten, just love it.

42K (67,500 km) on my watch.

That's exactly what I found with my 6th gen and the 8th gen rads.

RC45 clicks not in moderation...

I think the VFR is the whole package. Put an aftermarket slip on exhaust ( I'm using a Delkevic ) ,tweak the suspension ( Jamie Daugherty to name one option), tweak the OEM seat ( Sargent rebuilt mine ) and you have a unique motorcycle that can do it all. Plus you won't see yourself coming and going everyday.