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raYzerman last won the day on June 17

raYzerman had the most liked content!

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About raYzerman

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider

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  • Location
    Millgrove, Ontario
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FI
    2009 CBF1000A

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  1. I'll ask what makes you think you need new ones? Why not take them to a cleaning service, they will flow test and give you a report. Cheap. Otherwise I would seek out used ones and take them to a cleaning service......
  2. What mello dude says...... FYI, Yamaha uses the FH020AA on several models including FJR, FJ-07, FJ-09, etc. and they don't have problems.... I picked up a used one (not fearing they were faulty) and installed on my Gen5. You will need the proper connectors.... Eastern Beaver in Japan, I know stuff is flowing in from there. Not sure if Roadster Cycle will ship here, you'd have to ask him.... use USPS to avoid courier brokerage fees, but it might take a coupla weeks. If you're stuck, a small bribe and I can bring my spare set and R/R, you can replace it another day. All you wil
  3. Read this..... makes a big difference in how the bike idles, it certainly changed my 5th Gen. If it were mine, I'd check the tank and if no rust/bad fuel (I would drain/siphon out and put in fresh. I'd definitely run Seafoam or one of the fuel conditioners previously mentioned, and for the next couple of tankfuls once you get it running. New spark plugs. Not sure I'd go with injector cleaning just yet anyway, it should run. Idle speed 1200 with starter valves closed ("choke" off) when warmed up. Not sure how you're going to get the plant out from under the TB's but
  4. The issue isn't restricted to 6th Gen. My Gen5 had a kinked vent hose by the PO and he had collapsed the tank..... I was fortunate to find a NOS one. I replaced all the vent hoses with stronger walled ones and lengthened and routed it such that it can't kink. I suppose one could put some of that spiral wrap on it to accomplish the same thing.
  5. Brand was VHT in Cast Iron, spray can. Anything brushed on would be way too thick.
  6. I did my 5th Gen (65k miles) headers with VHT in a Cast Iron colour (gray-ish). Black or some other colours may show light rust eventually but gray less so. I left the headers on the bike, fine wire brushed everything I could get at, wiped with naptha to dissolve any oily residues, and finished with isopropanol so it was clean. Worst spot of brown was at the front fairing vents, more weather exposure there, but all of it cleaned up surprisingly well. The trick is not to apply a heavy coating... first a light primer coat and let dry overnight, then follow with a second light coat. I us
  7. As far as "The Drill" goes, skip to the end and get the FH020 or SH847 R/R and you'll not likely need a stator. Voltmeter recommended nonetheless on any bike. Ditch those dumb fairing clips and use the push-pin type that you can re-use. I keep a couple of spare fairing screws in my stash. Check the ground spider connector up front, lube with contact paste and check the ground screw on the right side of the frame. Install a battery tender harness and keep the battery fresh if the bike sits for a week or more. Major job to replace all the coolant hoses with a silicone k
  8. gig, I think we're saying just the opposite, raise 3 and 4 vacuum, not drop it. You can try it both ways for yourself and the difference should be apparent. Let us know what you find.
  9. You can slide it out if you remove the rear master cylinder bolts.....
  10. What you want are the latest LED's that are closer to DOT compliant for beam pattern. Not sure what the 6th Gen has, but the 5th Gen has Honda specific H4 look-alikes (with unique locating tab locations). If H4/9003, you have to remove the two lower tabs to fit in the Honda socket. I use F2 LED's (when you look for listings, it's a yellow box with F2 on it), and these have a good beam pattern. Any with no shields on the LED's are to be avoided as all they do is spray light everywhere. You may have to trim 1/8" or so off the smaller diameter of the rubber boot. Separate the base from the
  11. WD40 contains naptha, a good slow solvent for glues. A very small screwdriver can loosen the bond, used carefully.... I use compressed air between the grip and bar and they'll usually slide right off if freed up. Same going back on.
  12. I wouldn't plug the gap, I'd make it bigger if it were possible (experience on other bikes).... airflow behind the windshield is a good thing for buffeting, etc. You won't see much water go through there really.
  13. I have gone for a couple more rides and must say it is better now... with engine warm, can feather the clutch out without any throttle input on a level surface, rpm drops to say 7-800, bike moves and hasn't hinted of stalling, it would before... so, quite pleased.
  14. It's a good find at 21k. Nothing much to worry about, just change all the fluids to fresh, ensure the routine maintenance is all done and good to go for many smiles. Yeah, I'd almost like to have a VFR 1200 but I'm liking the 800 well enough as a stablemate to my CBF1000 (a 2009 I got at 20k kms.). Not even broken in yet. Kinda bummed the VFR800X didn't make it to North America, or at least Canada, or I'd have one right now.
  15. I have used Rustoleum to paint my clutch cover and the exhaust cover behind it... Antique Bronze Metallic... very dark grey. However, I want to do my wheels in some other (lighter bronze-ish maybe).... not sure if I would clearcoat, but my covers turned out well. I found the paint to take a very long time to "harden" on some other parts.... so I put my parts in a 200-ish F. oven for an hour or so. Works well to harden the paint, which will further harden with age. Hope I can get the wheels in there......... other thing I'd recommend is lighter coats, two should do it, but this paint doesn'
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