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raYzerman last won the day on June 17 2020

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About raYzerman

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  • Location
    Millgrove, Ontario
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FI
    2009 CBF1000A

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  1. I think the 8th Gen was changed so that if you have a tipover, you won't get a fuel spill.... or at least minimal spillage. But these spring-loaded vents must be cleaned once in a while. My 5th Gen's previous owner had a kinked vent hose...... the suction caved in the sides and top of the tank, to the point of putting two sharp creases near the rear character line..... to the point of leaking.... thus could not fill more than 2/3 full without leaking...... I fixed that with a new tank, replaced the vent hose with a more robust type, extended/re-outed the vent hose, and yes any time the tank is up, I check for kinking religiously. Then one day I tipped the bike over in the shop with maybe 2/3 tank.... as the bike lay on it's side, fuel leaked out the vent tube onto the floor.... there is no check valve to prevent that, and again, newer bikes have them incorporated into their fuel caps.......
  2. Oh yes........ another solution for a problem that doesn't really exist?? IF you could drain ALL the oil it says in the manual for an oil and filter change, you're more than good.... drain time.... Note there is an additional volume of oil required should you rebuild and have a virgin engine...... you will never drain that out, so you're worried about a little oil left in? On an FJR it's a full litre.....
  3. For the cause of failure, there's an elephant in the room here... Your opening statements suggest you're hard on your machine. I think you should question the wisdom of going 250+ for 150km... anything stressed to the limits for sustained periods is just asking for something to give up. As for your oil choice, I wouldn't go high viscosity, you want max flow.... stick to 10W30 or 10W40 IMHO.
  4. In theory, a good firm contact in both terminals (e.g., spade terminals) "should" scrape off anything you put on there, but some terminals don't do scraping action.... I avoid di-electric IN the terminals, it should/can be applied after the connection is made to the back of the connectors to make them water/air proof. I use OxGard sparingly, and try not to cross-contaminate an adjacent terminal. Some discussion about it also not being all that conductive, but........ it was designed for aluminum house wiring to prevent aluminum corrosion. Bottom line, IMHO, if you use either, ensure your terminals make a good solid connection. I am not an electronics expert, but contact cleaner should help with connections. I had one once that was "contact cleaner with lube"..... which I believe may be silicone??.... dunno for sure, but it sounded better to me.... one can clean up terminals with contact cleaner, blow dry and put your connectors together..... dielectric grease on the back to waterproof......
  5. Perhaps test your output voltage...... regulator disconnected. I suspect you have a regulator/wiring issue. Stator might look a little cooked, but may not be bad. I'm not so sure it's in constant bath of oil, just oil splash.... I wouldn't risk removing "the carbon"... Post a pic, it's hard to know what you have. If it's black, it may be cooked, but it's testing ok so far.
  6. I can't add much more than Cogswell and Grum.... everything they have said. It will be important that at minimum the ground spider and the chassis ground on the right side of the frame must be clean and good. Battery connections must be good. Otherwise you may be chasing your tail. Then clear all old codes and start fresh.
  7. I'd also check the ground terminal on the right side, just for fun in case a sensor isn't seeing good ground... then there's the spider up front left taped into the harness.. Not sure what that connector is, perhaps identifying the wire colours may help....
  8. Hey, Ray, my name is Ray too...... I always wanted to try one of these covers, configure it to what you'd like, seems reasonable price. Almost anyone can install it...... get it out in the hot sun first, a helper, a really good staple gun (or pneumatic one)...... https://www.ebay.com/itm/132870449533?hash=item1eefb2297d:g:ekMAAOSw1rpb~lq8
  9. I have used these on a couple of bikes and found them very good. They are stainless steel and with the slots in them, dissipate heat quite well. Wouldn't hesitate to go there if your wallet can't stand EBC or Galfer.
  10. Be aware SS and TI don't play well with aluminum.... I'd recommend a little coating of anti-seize on the threads.
  11. Service Manual page 5-69 shows the Baro sensor.
  12. MAP on the air box is Manifold Air Pressure, one out back is atmospheric air pressure (I assume for riding at various altitudes). I had a blinky as well, replaced the air box MAP with a used one, it cleared fine. No symptoms like yours, in fact none, bike ran fine. For very high rpm issue 7-9k, I would think physical cause holding throttle open slightly... just my guess. Throttle freeplay should be very small but not zero. Wax motor should not hold throttle open when warmed up. I'd try to judge how much throttle held open (by wax motor) when cold, perhaps judge gap at idle adjust screw? I know the manual says don't adjust wax motor, but I would if I needed to.
  13. MAP sensor should not cause that high rpms I wouldn't think... should only make minor adjustments to the fuel map via ECU..... there's likely another issue?? Throttle cables clear and working properly? Wax motor or something physical holding the throttle plates open slightly? Check all vac hoses still connected? There is a second MAP sensor behind rear cowl right side, vented to atmosphere (no hose).
  14. OK, I don't have an 8th Gen, but if the fill cap is accessible, why not use a dipstick.... 2/3 full should be plenty and near max mark. The proper way of course is to remove plastic.... while you have it off next time, take a red marker and mark the max and min marks? Is the reason it's opaque from old dark fluid or the bottle needing a cleaning on the inside and out?
  15. You're in the ballpark at $100 for the set..... Your Honda shop might run some injector cleaners through and get an improvement but a proper injector cleaning service is the way to go.... save some service dollars (Honda shop time) and send them out!! BTW have you checked the prices on new ones.... don't, we don't want you having a heart attack, lol.
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