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raYzerman

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raYzerman last won the day on June 17 2020

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About raYzerman

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider

Profile Information

  • Location
    Millgrove, Ontario
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FI
    2009 CBF1000A

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  1. Regarding the popping, some of it will be the PAIR system that allows fresh air flow into the exhaust to help unburned gasses burn. Suggestion might be to remove the PAIR system if you already haven't and see if it improves the situation.
  2. My wooden creations are for shop use only. I haven't had occasion to lift the tank on any bike while on the road, but if I did, I'd make a steel rod.
  3. My tank prop consists of a length of 1 x 3 wood with two pins to fit in the frame holes and one pin to fit in the tank tab hole (optional, use two for the grommet holes). Made a similar one for the FJR, much shorter.
  4. raYzerman

    IMG_0054.JPG

    The Lolo Pass is fun. This one from 2016.
  5. I had a heck of a time unplugging my ECU....... took my time, had to resort to some prying.... carefully so not to wreck the plastic. Had to pry a bit on one side to keep the latch disengaged, then disengage and pry a bit on the other side. Three hands would help, lol. Take your time..... once apart, the next time isn't as bad. They are a snug fit. Don't think you can get OEM harness connectors for the ECU, shouldn't need to.
  6. We all appreciate your hard work..... working much quicker now, thanks!!
  7. A couple of things you can do to seal the OEM bleeder screws.... remove and wrap with teflon tape, or back them out a fair bit and use silicone grease on the threads, snug them back in. I think you can also buy Speedbleeders thread sealer.
  8. Save that vac time... put a little oil on some earplugs and put them in your anchors........ old trick.
  9. Better LED yet, these ones are very close to H4 and have the shields to properly direct light to a good low beam cutoff. If there are no shields, there is a lot of scatter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-9003-F2-LED-Headlight-72W-12000LM-Cree-Chips-White-6K-Driving-Front-H-L-Bulbs/223491975158?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  10. I use one of those jacks, one of the best things I have... depending on the bike, no plastic removal required.
  11. Congrats! At least you got everything labelled..... not like the project I brought home, complete basket case, no labels whatsoever, lol. Yep, complete bike in there believe it or not. Yes I did put it all back together with a replacement engine (no way to fix this one). So, just passing along some incentive!!
  12. I use Permatex Plastic Epoxy for these kinds of repairs. It is tough and can be filed, sanded, painted. I would add some kind of second layer to reinforce it on either side of the crack, after you have initially "glued" the tab in place.
  13. +1 on Grum's recommendation. Have used Kemso units in the past, wouldn't hesitate at all. Ebay has several listed.
  14. No video on changing out the light bulbs. Simple enough, remove nose cowl and remove the bulb holders, the larger ones are for turn signal indicators and backlighting. Those are 194 type, use correct colour for the lens it goes behind... amber for signal indicators, green for illumination. The smaller ones are for warning lights, use appropriate colour for each, they are #74. The GPS bracket is one I had from years ago. TPMS bracket is similar but mirror image. You can easily make one from 1/8 steel, 4 screws mount the GPS cradle, you can put yours vertical if you like, standard Garm
  15. Superbright LED bulb replacements.... #194 and #74. Good in daytime, might be a tab bright at night, but I'm not intending to ride much at night. I don't think it would be too bad though.... keep the stock blue for the high beam, I dislike bright high beam indicators. https://www.superbrightleds.com/
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