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raYzerman

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raYzerman last won the day on June 17 2020

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About raYzerman

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  • Location
    Millgrove, Ontario
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FI
    2016 Versys 1000 LT
    2013 Fazer 8 FZ8C

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  1. The chat feature works, but I don't know who told who in admin or who is waiting for who to do something........
  2. If I might add, do not neglect the ground side of things.... the spider connector taped into the wire harness, left side, and the grounding screw on the right side frame.
  3. I'd recommend no speed bleeders when fillling an empty system..... regular bleeder screws, just open them and let gravity get things started after a few minutes, then start pumping. Speed bleeders can't effectively pass air without fluid right there. Even if you use a vacuum system, I'd still leave the speed bleeders out until you got the lines initially full, then put them in for your final bleeding the old fashioned way.
  4. I'd recommend removing the rear caliper now and hanging it high once you have the system filled....... final bleed with it high.
  5. A good flare nut wrench.... hopefully you haven't rounded it off too bad. I agree penetrant and consider heat with a pencil flame torch. Mine came off without the torch, but one has to keep his swear jar handy, lol.
  6. Very simple circuit...... Light green supplies power from switch to the horn when horn switch pushed (assuming your horn switch is good). When button pushed, check voltage at horn. If good, then either the ground is faulty or the horn is bad or bad connection at the horn. Can bench test the horn if you need to. The green ground wire is shared with all the forward lighting.... if that all works, then the ground may be good.
  7. You need to flush out the crud first.... WD40 is naptha and a very light oil. Lock de-icer works, it will likely have alcohol as a solvent. Lots of opinions what to use as a lube, use graphite if you want but preventative maintenance is a flush and then lube once a year. Likely won't matter a lot what you use if you do this. Ask a locksmith what he recommends. Another suggestion........ https://3inone.com/product/3-in-one-lock-dry-lube/
  8. I've had various key sticking issues on bikes. First thing you need is a good flush to get any built-up dirt/crud/graphite out of the tumblers, use WD40 if you like. Then I'd use a light lube such as lock de-icer that may have some oil in it. I wouldn't put graphite in that's usually more trouble down the road. A worn key (or tumbler) will cause the tumbler not to be flush with the housing, thus it can't turn. If that's an issue, sometimes you can remove the tumbler barrel, insert the key, and file the tumblers flush.
  9. I used OEM torque with no problem. However, check side to side turning effort the old fashioned way, should be little to no drag.
  10. The Roadsmart 3's are a harder compound...... must be well warmed up and not a cool/wet weather tire.... I imagine the 1200 could spin them out...... better off with a softer compound sport touring tire.
  11. I'd ensure you have fresh fluid flush, check the slave is not sticking (for that delayed launch). Notchy clutch basket can contribute..... full inspection recommended, clean them up while you're in there. Basically it's preventative maintenance for the price of a gasket.
  12. Was the replacement R/R an OEM or a mofset?
  13. No, but I think you should buy another VFR800X and ship it over here. I'll store it for you, make sure there's no rust gets on the cylinder walls.
  14. I didn't see any way without removing the cables from the TB's.... there is one screw that is very fiddly to get back in the bracket, it's right between the two adjusters. I did it without taking the airbox off if memory serves......
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