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raYzerman last won the day on June 17 2020

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About raYzerman

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  • Location
    Millgrove, Ontario
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FI
    2009 CBF1000A

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  1. I'd love one of those.... what regulator does the Crossrunner have, would be my first question..... then what type of connections to it......
  2. Audio only here too, in any case won't tell you much IMHO. The only way you'll know for sure if the fork is bent is to disassemble it and roll the tube on a dead flat surface (or in a lathe).
  3. Pretty good start to the project..... I'd guess running too lean if it dies and can't go at 2k rpm.... what Dutchy says......
  4. Interesting for sure.... I'd suggest decoding your VIN to see what you actually have and go from there. Most of the discussion has been (I think) around North American VFR's which do have the fast idle lever '98-'99........ was there a different homologation for the UK, good question. I know there is for FJR's for other features, but in that case all the fuel systems were the same regardless. https://www.edmunds.com/how-to/how-to-quickly-decode-your-vin.html https://uk.vin-info.com/ https://haynes.com/en-gb/tips-tutorials/how-decode-your-car-s-vin
  5. I think if it were me, I'd leave the wax unit on..... I've had several bikes with these and there's nothing wrong with them. Despite the suggestion you can't adjust it, you actually can if you need to tweak it. A better thing to do is a proper starter valve sync...... Do this to your Gen5, it is the correct way.
  6. Another series R/R is the SH775 (Polaris #4012941), and it would work well too. I would get the RoadsterCycle harness, as it is robust and good quality wire, circuit breaker and connectors..... you can't really build that much cheaper or as good yourself. Installing the Roadster harness totally eliminates stock wiring from the equation. Yet another SH series regulator is from a Versys 1000 2015-up. The Yamaha (FJR, FJ-09, etc.) used a mofset FH-020-AA.... they didn't have history of failing. What you may find is that used R/R's are half or more of what you can buy a new one at Roadster for........
  7. I think he means R/R and the appropriate harness with the right connectors for it...... forget the VFRness altogether, unneeded then.
  8. I'd keep the '98...... I'm not seeing why you'd want a '00-01 over that either.... why bother at all? I didn't see if the 2000 was yellow..... if that's the reason, move all the plastic and tank, keep the '98, sell the 2000.
  9. Re-reading your original post, would have been handy to know what the battery voltage was before you first fired it up..... Clock reset, etc..... normally would indicate battery dead.... OR, flaky ground. Check/refresh frame ground on right side of frame, untape the (orange) ground spider from the main harness on the left side, ensure clean and perhaps use some contact paste (Noalox or OxGard) in the terminals. I'm assuming you checked the battery terminals for being clean and no issues at the starter relay connector.
  10. What shape were the connectors to R/R and stator in.... discoloured/oxidized/overheated? Your charge voltage is fine and indicates the R/R is working...... How old is this battery and how do you maintain it if the bike sits? EZ enough to go get it load tested, that will tell you if it is losing capacity. This is just me after reading about all the RR failures.... while your stator is still good, go get the Roadster Cycle RR upgrade. Cheap insurance if you think about it longer term. Batteries aren't all that expensive either, but load test yours. If it's nearing 5 years old, it's just a matter of time anyway, its close to end of life.
  11. Agree. That seat is making my butt hurt already! Was hoping they'd bring the Crossrunner here, but alas no. I'd rather have a V4.
  12. 10W40 is perfectly fine... I personally wouldn't go any thinner. Amzoil fine. You do need a consistent method of checking you could be falsely thinking you're burning oil.... I kinda doubt it. No shortage of 10W40 around...... ??? Most all the major m/c oil folks have 10W40.
  13. That's what Honda calls them, but yeah, duh!! DB Electrical has a website, go to the About Us link. Contact Us will take you to their TN address. https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/starter-relay-for-honda-m-c-1985-2013-38501-gn2-014.html
  14. I stumbled on an aftermarket equivalent of the Honda 38501-GN2-014 relay (aka incorrectly Starter Relay). It is the DB Electrical 240-54035, and a lot cheaper than the OEM....... I know nothing about them or quality, but you could use them in a non-critical spot like headlight relays if you wanted to swap in for a fuel cut or engine stop relay....... Do a Google search for an appropriate source........
  15. That's a good fix in another application....... however, this bulb is in a twist/turn socket that installs into the instrument panel circuit board...... would require some more creative solution.... meh, just put in the original #74 incandescent......
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