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raYzerman last won the day on June 17

raYzerman had the most liked content!

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About raYzerman

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  • Location
    Millgrove, Ontario
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FI
    2009 CBF1000A

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  1. I'm a fan of keeping the linked brake system, can't find much wrong with it at all.
  2. I have a electronic VacuMate, same readings as Carbtune without the fluctuating mechanical bits. Put both on the VFR yesterday, sync was off but not too bad, had lumpy idle. Adjusted to the manual, idles way better, and going to go for a spin....... then I will re-tune to Jkson's method and go for a similar spin...... updates later.
  3. I like sport touring and travelling, so after having a Honda ST1300, Goldwing and two FJR's, as I get older I was looking for a decent sport tourer that was 150 lbs. lighter and still very capable.... so I found this 2009 CBF1000A. Here it is on a trip last year to Ohio. The US did not get this bike, had the identical smaller engined CBF600. Clocks in at 525 lbs., ergos similar to an FJR, but the CBF1000 is my fave and I wouldn't hesitate to take it anywhere. Handles great, goes where you point it, smoothest powertrain ever at any rpm. These can be had here low milers and toy money pricing. Outstanding bike, really. Always wanted a VFR800 5th Gen, so picked up this one with 109k kms (65k miles), and spent last winter stripping it down and cleaning it up. Price was right. Had a Magna restoration project back in the day, fell in love with the V4's. The VFR will be more of a twisty rider for when I go to the good stuff, if I want to, I'll just put both on a trailer and go. Not intending to put bags on it. This pic the day I brought it home, will have to get some more pics later.
  4. It's the old story, if you want longevity, you want harder compounds and perhaps dual compounds. If you want grip and handling/confidence in the hard twisties, you want something softer. Your mileage is dependent on your riding style, right wrist, how hot you go into corners, etc. Use only others experience with similar style..... no way I'll ever get Grum's mileage out of tires. PR2's and RS3 are harder, just be more careful when it's cooler out (40-50's, spring/fall) and if wet. Good in the hot and dry. I prefer a little softer, so PR4/5, T31, Angel GT, Z6. I use Z6 fronts a lot, dual compound, will notice a band of the harder compound in the middle if you do lots of twisties. Currently running a Shinko Raven set on one of my bikes and they are darn good if I do say so, and cheap (don't let that fool you). Currently on the Gen5, have Angel GT rear (190/55) and Raven front.... probably next time would stick to 180/55 rear, but quite good. Dislike tread patterns that are prone to cupping/scalloping, PR4 fronts just begging for that. PR3's even softer, worse and I avoid both. Basically saying, not necessarily are sets good front/rear, but they can be. Most without their own tire changing equipment will think a little differently, I like being able to change tires out at will.
  5. That looks like the ignition pulse generator, typically a rubber grommet around the wire where it exits the crankcase. Can show some weepage... to fix, have to remove engine cover carefully, may be able to preserve the gasket, but better to have a new gasket. At the grommet, typical thing is to smear some RTV gasket maker on it and re-install the cover. If you opt for no new gasket, be prepared to wipe down both surfaces with isopropanol, smear RTV on the remaining gasket and mating surfaces, reinstall the cover. Again, safe bet is to get a new gasket. The other option of course, if it's only a bit of weepage, can you live with it as is and just wipe it off periodically. There is no oil pressure behind it, but crankcase pressure builds at times.... check your air cleaner for possible clogged vent hose that routes crankcase pressure up there to be burned off... may see a bit of oil around it, all normal, just ensure it's not clogged.
  6. Dammitol, one star is missing from the front wheel!!! Gawd awful fugly that.
  7. Thanks Jkson, gonna give this a shot. About to check into my recently-new-to-me Gen5's sync and see where it is... it's OK but could be improved. My buddy's VFR seems better, I'll also compare to that one. All makes sense to me.
  8. I will attempt to answer the chip key question..... my 5th gen does not have an immobilizer (HISS) but my 2009 CBF1000 does..... Match up the appearance of the key blank with this..... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32904392873.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dxmUfmD Get the keys cut in advance and verify they turn the ignition key on. The chips can be purchased separately, peel back the cover of the key and insert...... note there are various chips, you can find out which one if you open up your existing key....... these ones are called ID46 which is the type used on my bike... perhaps research... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000074515450.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dhGNUdz There are Youtube videos of how to make a two-wire harness, some include a 100 ohm resistor for more stability, however that might be optional (I have seen done without).
  9. I'll withdraw my suggestion...... got confused with another wiring issue and typed too hastily.... you are correct, no R/R load on the starter relay at all.
  10. Good idea. Might I also suggest just taking the R/R portion of the wiring directly to battery and getting rid of the R/R load on the starter relay altogether. If you do that, fuse it with a 30A fuse or breaker.
  11. You can program additional keys however, you have to have at least one original/programmed key for HISS. No way to remove HISS from the ECU. Best find an ECU with keys and locks... installing a non-HISS ECU seems plausible but check the wiring as already suggested.
  12. I installed F2 LED's, as I've done on my other bikes. They are the closest to halogen in the aim department (filament placement), much brighter but not blinding to anyone as long as not aimed too high. Look for the yellow box with F2 on it, there are other LED's out there not as good. Shop around, I've bought them for as low as $40. When you install, trim 1/8" off the ID of the rubber (forward edge) so the "bulb" portion seats easier. Also have to cut the two lower tabs off the adapters since Honda uses a unique bulb. Leave the wider upper tab intact. Note install the LED's with the little reflectors pointing up. They are for the low beam. https://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-9003-F2-LED-Headlight-72W-12000LM-Cree-Chips-White-6K-Driving-Front-H-L-Bulbs/223491975158?hash=item340928e7f6:g:k6MAAOSw43JbyYPU
  13. First remove that clutch lever and check out all the bushings..... cheap and easy.
  14. My 1999 is roughly same mileage, and I can't feather the clutch as well as I'd like to, a friend's VFR has a better clutch feel... I think I'm due for a clutch pack change to smooth it out at low revs, but the clutch is working fine anywhere else. Certainly, a tune-up of starter valves will help, new spark plugs, checking for vacuum leaks, etc. And first thing I'd do is ditch the OEM R/R and put a FH020AA mofset in there to take away the electrical concerns.... Clutch switch might be just dirty, spray liberally with contact cleaner to flush it out, and maybe adjust clutch lever more away from the bar. Oddly enough, take your clutch lever apart and you'll likely find the brass bushing that pushes on the master cylinder plunger is worn oval and scored. Get a new one, lube it with silicone grease (it won't wash out) as well as the other pivot bushing... which also may be worn... find another lever and press in a newer non-oval bushing. You will notice much better clutch operation and shifting.
  15. What you're doing is not good for it..... you need to calm down, but carry on, it's your bike. Sounds like you have a couple of things going on.... clutch is grabbing and clutch is slipping.... I'd guess there is some notching of the clutch basket not allowing the clutch plates to freely move.... it's all the abuse, for the sake of your bike, change your bad habits. Take the clutch apart and be ready to get yourself a new clutch basket and a new clutch pack.
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