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raYzerman

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raYzerman last won the day on June 17 2020

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About raYzerman

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  • Location
    Millgrove, Ontario
  • In My Garage:
    1999 VFR800FI
    2016 Versys 1000 LT
    2013 Fazer 8 FZ8C

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  1. I didn't see any way without removing the cables from the TB's.... there is one screw that is very fiddly to get back in the bracket, it's right between the two adjusters. I did it without taking the airbox off if memory serves......
  2. Yellow is awesome, and the fastest colour.......
  3. How about get in touch with Galfer and get a couple of their little "olives". They are brass and will take up any mismatch between two flares. A replacement brake line, is the flare going to be any different than what you have? Is it obviously buggered up or still look good? I think you are steel on steel, so maybe all you gotta do is crank them tighter?
  4. PAIR systems are perhaps a little misunderstood... they passively let air into the exhaust ports post-combustion to help burn unburned gasses, and usually only on deceleration does the solenoid open. Should have no effect on performance, only emissions.
  5. Ah OK, didn't realize you had HEL.... sometimes just backing off and re-snug will fix flare leaks, but I'd take it apart and see whazzup with the flare end and if OK, try again...
  6. Download the Galfer instructions for the kit... they mention and supply two "olive" conic inversers (their term), which are brass ferrules to insert into two fittings where an OEM line joins theirs...... these will crush slightly as you snug up the fittings, thus taking up any difference between the two flares and seal properly... I am wondering if you are missing these. I have no pics of the item, nor it appears does Galfer. They would have been in your kit. Recommend you download the instructions from Galfer for the D195-11 kit. One "olive" and fitting goes on the end of line "D" and the other on the end of line "F". In both locations you are mating to an existing steel line. I do not see the block fitting in your photo, so perhaps you are doing it differently or not using the 11 line kit. Tighten as you might, it may not seal? https://galferusa.com/technical/instructions/honda-instructions
  7. In your video, battery is getting a little weaker with each start attempt since you're not running/riding the bike long enough to fully charge the battery. I didn't hear anything unusual in your 3 start attempts, suspect the starter clutch is just fine..... you need to get the battery load tested, but sounds like you need a new one perhaps.
  8. If I were doing it again...... gauges either green or blue LED's. I got green to match the voltmeter and shift indicator because green shows up in daylight better than blue or red in those two. Amber signal indicators, keeps me from forgetting to cancel my signals. For the other lights, I'd leave incandescent except perhaps Neutral light and oil pressure, I don't mind those bright, but certainly OK as is. High beam indicator and FI definitely incandescent. I got all mine from SuperbrightLED's they are the brightest I've found, 7443 amber turn signals, etc.
  9. Mine with FI changed to LED..... constantly lit, so not recommended for that one. I'll be swapping the FI bulb back to incandescent.
  10. You have to do what makes you sleep at night...... if you want to read a bunch about SH775's go to the Versys forum where a bunch of 650 guys have put the Polaris or other 775's in..... not seeing much on failures.......... https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/
  11. And there's still no big deal with the tried and true FH020...... sometimes we overthink things. I have no experience with the 775, but if it's starting to sound like a duck, it may be a duck. If Jack can't get one, then might have been superceded for a reason. Nobody with the 866 on a Versys 1k (2015-up) has had an issue that I know of.... it's $220+ OEM price, I don't know of a Polaris, et. al. equivalent....
  12. I'm on various bike forums, and once older R/R's are replaced by mofsets, shunt or series, tales of stator failures don't happen. The Versys 650 guys are replacing with SH775, which is Polaris 4012941, rated at 35 amps. There is a later one, Polaris 40016868 series type (number unknown) alledgedly rated at 50 amps, maybe slightly larger in physical size. To me, the SH847 is overkill for a 350 watt stator. On these lower output stators, an FH020 would do just fine. Another reference point, my Versys 1000 (2016 - 29A stator) OEM R/R is an SH866 (~$220), rating unknown, same size as FH020 or SH775. Redline is 10k rpm and no you don't live there. These guys looking up Polaris numbers are just trying to get R/R's for $100, which isn't likely these days.... what you also need is the connectors and make yourself a harness...... Roadster's all in one solution, well let's just say save yourself the time and trouble, his harness is robust and made of quality wire... The SH775 kit is $195.
  13. My guess is the output is around 350 watts...... by comparison, an FJR1300 puts out 590 watts and they use an FH020AA from the factory, and they don't fail....... so my opinion is you don't need an 847.
  14. Idea....... why go big butt SH847? How about SH775 for same format size as FH020AA... do you really need the capabilities of an 847? Jack at Roadster Cycle could advise you further.....
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