raYzerman

This ECU is in good working order. From a 1999 VFR, if that matters. I bought it to diagnose a problem with the FI light, which turned out to be a faulty MAP sensor. Sensor replaced and all was good. Part number etc. is in the picture, if not clear let me know. Asking U$90 + shipping. Posted on VFRW as well. Note, if it's going to the US, I will mail it while in the US on April 19.

Hi raYzerman, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

A constant on FI light can mean things other than a faulty ECU..... check service manual for the list....... being it sat a year, I'd be checking all connections first.

You really need to put the original ECU back in. To read codes, find the two-way connector on left side under the seat, near the rear, and jumper it, or find a mating connector and put a switch in your jumper so you can conveniently use it when you need to. Follow the service manual procedure to read the codes, correct the issue and clear them. Again, with the original ECU. As for your initial problem of no fuel pump running, time to check all the connections of regulator/stator, clean them up, and especially at the starter relay. Check all fuses are good... what do you see first with ignition on and bike in neutral?

IF one messed with starter valve #1, one has changed the reference.... best not mess with that. Idle speed can be adjusted normally, provided the wax unit isn't affecting it. I wouldn't hesitate to move the lock nut if I had to. You should be able to tweak the high idle with it, meaning, no affect on regular idle speed, yet getting a good high idle for warmup. However, I'd take the earlier advice to ensure everything is not corroded and free to work properly.

Yes, what they said, perhaps better. I meant move the nut so it has no effect on the SV's when hot...... and see if your idle creep is still there..... although somewhat explainable as Mohawk says. Once the engine is at full operating temperature, I have not noticed any idle creep with my manual lever backed off...

There is no adjustment procedure and the manual just describes replacing the wax unit. So, one has to figure out the adjustment. If it were me, warm up the engine to operating temp, wax unit should have no influence, it if does, back it off.... Then Sync the starter valves, set the idle to 1200-1300 (or you preferred hot idle). Then let it cool down and see what your cold idle is... 2000-2500 is fine (to me), and typically where I put it with mine that has the throttle cable instead. Even then, it will creep up as the engine warms up, all normal. In your case, when hot, it should drop back to where you have your preferred not idle. I'd think the wax unit at that point may have a little slack to the starter valves, i.e., no influence on them at all. Are you using the proper starter valve sync procedure?? Check that no starter valve is sticking....

Are your triangle plates in the correct orientation, or at least the same on both bikes? This will alter rear ride height.

I like that idea....... can you share where you bought them?? Edit add: As an alternative, on my 5th Gen I got new signal lights from AliExpress, and they are a clearer amber and let more light through than the OEM's. One caution, their sonic welds are poor, so remove the lenses and silicone them in place. I then converted the bulbs to LED, and am quite impressed with the additional brightness and conspicuity of the running lights, and of course the signals are much brighter as well. I got the bulbs at SuperbrightLED's. Changed the flasher to LED compatible.

I decided I'm going even if unknown how good it will be...... Go Train or TTC, no parking, jes sayin'.

I'd bump that front tire pressure up to at least 38......

If you're eating stators, then first question is what R/R are you using and are you still connected via the OEM harness...... if so, you need to upgrade and bypass directly to the battery.

Are there chassis grounds on this bike? I'd think if all is getting power, you have a grounding problem maybe??

There is going to be some sun fading too, so if it's just touching up a coupla scratches, OK. Red is the worst for sun fading, yellow more forgiving.. if you have to spray something, and if it's say down low where nobody can really tell, then go for it. If elsewhere, paint the whole panel but best if it's separated by say black..... only place for that is at the seat, lol. The small kit I got from Britain was 3 part.... touch-up only. Don't see it listed now.

If it's just touch-up and not spraying.... I bought a 3 part kit from England once, from ebay. If you Google the paint code and Pearl Shining Yellow........ Try this one https://scratcheshappen.ca/shop/touch-up-paint/honda-pearl-shining-yellow-y-124p/