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Everything posted by raYzerman

  1. I'm not a Sargent fan, Corbin OK but heavy (their fiberglass pan). I got lucky and found a used Russell, it is perfect, a little higher for knee angle, pillion is also redone but can get cowl on (although it goes on snug). With Russell you would send them a stock pan. Shape of the seat is key, not too soft and I'd never use gel. I don't think you'd like Top Sellerie, they are not reshaped just puffy redesigned cover. I don't know anyone on any bike who has liked them. You could get one of those custom seat covers (ebay, from Poland ~100) look great, but get your angle grinder out and reshape your stock foam somewhat (flatten it in the middle). I have done this on other bikes, better but not like a custom seat.
  2. I think you'll find the different plates are simply slight differences in thickness.... should still work, just potentially a difference in slave cylinder travel/lever position (adjustable). Were perhaps the slaves of different piston diameter/different master cylinders..... i.e., a larger bore slave would travel less and have less effort......... I guess the only real way to do it is order the correct (OEM) parts for the model in question. Note from my experience with the clutch rod.... pull out from the left side, clean it up, light film of grease, but a generous amount of grease on the right end made a difference for me (wouldn't seat properly when inserted dry).
  3. I guess you better make a trip down to Iron Pony then........... if your wallet can stand it, try an AGV carbon fiber.
  4. Haven't had a hint of a problem...... I think those that said that did not have their suspension set up properly (too wimpy). You've perhaps heard of the Pan Weave on the ST1300's as well, for the same reasons...... I like a firmer suspension setting.
  5. I rode a DCT VFR1200X for a while..... not sure I'd want it.... ok on a Goldwing.... I'm happy with the very light pull slipper clutch on my Versys 1000. I'm sure the DCT is fine once you get used to it, but the pre-programmed shift points, etc. didn't excite me. I'd like to ride the NT1100 for fun to see what the fuss is about. I was on the fence about a Tracer GT for a couple of years, test rode 3 times... the Versys spoke to me way more, and I'm not (yet) thinking the NT can be a whole lot better. We shall see.
  6. I'd love one of those.... what regulator does the Crossrunner have, would be my first question..... then what type of connections to it......
  7. Audio only here too, in any case won't tell you much IMHO. The only way you'll know for sure if the fork is bent is to disassemble it and roll the tube on a dead flat surface (or in a lathe).
  8. Pretty good start to the project..... I'd guess running too lean if it dies and can't go at 2k rpm.... what Dutchy says......
  9. Interesting for sure.... I'd suggest decoding your VIN to see what you actually have and go from there. Most of the discussion has been (I think) around North American VFR's which do have the fast idle lever '98-'99........ was there a different homologation for the UK, good question. I know there is for FJR's for other features, but in that case all the fuel systems were the same regardless. https://www.edmunds.com/how-to/how-to-quickly-decode-your-vin.html https://uk.vin-info.com/ https://haynes.com/en-gb/tips-tutorials/how-decode-your-car-s-vin
  10. I think if it were me, I'd leave the wax unit on..... I've had several bikes with these and there's nothing wrong with them. Despite the suggestion you can't adjust it, you actually can if you need to tweak it. A better thing to do is a proper starter valve sync...... Do this to your Gen5, it is the correct way.
  11. Another series R/R is the SH775 (Polaris #4012941), and it would work well too. I would get the RoadsterCycle harness, as it is robust and good quality wire, circuit breaker and connectors..... you can't really build that much cheaper or as good yourself. Installing the Roadster harness totally eliminates stock wiring from the equation. Yet another SH series regulator is from a Versys 1000 2015-up. The Yamaha (FJR, FJ-09, etc.) used a mofset FH-020-AA.... they didn't have history of failing. What you may find is that used R/R's are half or more of what you can buy a new one at Roadster for........
  12. I think he means R/R and the appropriate harness with the right connectors for it...... forget the VFRness altogether, unneeded then.
  13. I'd keep the '98...... I'm not seeing why you'd want a '00-01 over that either.... why bother at all? I didn't see if the 2000 was yellow..... if that's the reason, move all the plastic and tank, keep the '98, sell the 2000.
  14. Re-reading your original post, would have been handy to know what the battery voltage was before you first fired it up..... Clock reset, etc..... normally would indicate battery dead.... OR, flaky ground. Check/refresh frame ground on right side of frame, untape the (orange) ground spider from the main harness on the left side, ensure clean and perhaps use some contact paste (Noalox or OxGard) in the terminals. I'm assuming you checked the battery terminals for being clean and no issues at the starter relay connector.
  15. What shape were the connectors to R/R and stator in.... discoloured/oxidized/overheated? Your charge voltage is fine and indicates the R/R is working...... How old is this battery and how do you maintain it if the bike sits? EZ enough to go get it load tested, that will tell you if it is losing capacity. This is just me after reading about all the RR failures.... while your stator is still good, go get the Roadster Cycle RR upgrade. Cheap insurance if you think about it longer term. Batteries aren't all that expensive either, but load test yours. If it's nearing 5 years old, it's just a matter of time anyway, its close to end of life.
  16. Agree. That seat is making my butt hurt already! Was hoping they'd bring the Crossrunner here, but alas no. I'd rather have a V4.
  17. 10W40 is perfectly fine... I personally wouldn't go any thinner. Amzoil fine. You do need a consistent method of checking you could be falsely thinking you're burning oil.... I kinda doubt it. No shortage of 10W40 around...... ??? Most all the major m/c oil folks have 10W40.
  18. That's what Honda calls them, but yeah, duh!! DB Electrical has a website, go to the About Us link. Contact Us will take you to their TN address. https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/starter-relay-for-honda-m-c-1985-2013-38501-gn2-014.html
  19. I stumbled on an aftermarket equivalent of the Honda 38501-GN2-014 relay (aka incorrectly Starter Relay). It is the DB Electrical 240-54035, and a lot cheaper than the OEM....... I know nothing about them or quality, but you could use them in a non-critical spot like headlight relays if you wanted to swap in for a fuel cut or engine stop relay....... Do a Google search for an appropriate source........
  20. That's a good fix in another application....... however, this bulb is in a twist/turn socket that installs into the instrument panel circuit board...... would require some more creative solution.... meh, just put in the original #74 incandescent......
  21. I had read some time ago maybe in the other sandbox where somebody had the same issue.... so that's 3 of us. The next time you have the front cowl off, swap it out for the old bulb. The rest can stay LED no problemmo...... I haven't yet....
  22. I did the same, need to go back to an incandescent bulb...... unless you happen to like the thing on all the time.....
  23. I still think it's a matter of the upper tree and lower tree slightly misaligned to each if you bumped the handlebars enough.... loosen the upper pinch bolts, align and retighten the pinch bolts. Very simple to fix.
  24. You want to keep the coil from slopping around..... those rubber well nuts are simple enough to replace, or go to your local Home Depot/Lowe's/Ace.. if you can't find a 6mm right away, use a 1/4-20 for the time being...... Have you checked the resistors at the plug adapter end of things?
  25. You can't drain the "whole engine"........ 0.7 litres remain no matter how you do it, according to Honda.
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