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Everything posted by raYzerman

  1. I didn't see any way without removing the cables from the TB's.... there is one screw that is very fiddly to get back in the bracket, it's right between the two adjusters. I did it without taking the airbox off if memory serves......
  2. Yellow is awesome, and the fastest colour.......
  3. How about get in touch with Galfer and get a couple of their little "olives". They are brass and will take up any mismatch between two flares. A replacement brake line, is the flare going to be any different than what you have? Is it obviously buggered up or still look good? I think you are steel on steel, so maybe all you gotta do is crank them tighter?
  4. PAIR systems are perhaps a little misunderstood... they passively let air into the exhaust ports post-combustion to help burn unburned gasses, and usually only on deceleration does the solenoid open. Should have no effect on performance, only emissions.
  5. Ah OK, didn't realize you had HEL.... sometimes just backing off and re-snug will fix flare leaks, but I'd take it apart and see whazzup with the flare end and if OK, try again...
  6. Download the Galfer instructions for the kit... they mention and supply two "olive" conic inversers (their term), which are brass ferrules to insert into two fittings where an OEM line joins theirs...... these will crush slightly as you snug up the fittings, thus taking up any difference between the two flares and seal properly... I am wondering if you are missing these. I have no pics of the item, nor it appears does Galfer. They would have been in your kit. Recommend you download the instructions from Galfer for the D195-11 kit. One "olive" and fitting goes on the end of line "D" and the other on the end of line "F". In both locations you are mating to an existing steel line. I do not see the block fitting in your photo, so perhaps you are doing it differently or not using the 11 line kit. Tighten as you might, it may not seal? https://galferusa.com/technical/instructions/honda-instructions
  7. In your video, battery is getting a little weaker with each start attempt since you're not running/riding the bike long enough to fully charge the battery. I didn't hear anything unusual in your 3 start attempts, suspect the starter clutch is just fine..... you need to get the battery load tested, but sounds like you need a new one perhaps.
  8. If I were doing it again...... gauges either green or blue LED's. I got green to match the voltmeter and shift indicator because green shows up in daylight better than blue or red in those two. Amber signal indicators, keeps me from forgetting to cancel my signals. For the other lights, I'd leave incandescent except perhaps Neutral light and oil pressure, I don't mind those bright, but certainly OK as is. High beam indicator and FI definitely incandescent. I got all mine from SuperbrightLED's they are the brightest I've found, 7443 amber turn signals, etc.
  9. Mine with FI changed to LED..... constantly lit, so not recommended for that one. I'll be swapping the FI bulb back to incandescent.
  10. You have to do what makes you sleep at night...... if you want to read a bunch about SH775's go to the Versys forum where a bunch of 650 guys have put the Polaris or other 775's in..... not seeing much on failures.......... https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/
  11. And there's still no big deal with the tried and true FH020...... sometimes we overthink things. I have no experience with the 775, but if it's starting to sound like a duck, it may be a duck. If Jack can't get one, then might have been superceded for a reason. Nobody with the 866 on a Versys 1k (2015-up) has had an issue that I know of.... it's $220+ OEM price, I don't know of a Polaris, et. al. equivalent....
  12. I'm on various bike forums, and once older R/R's are replaced by mofsets, shunt or series, tales of stator failures don't happen. The Versys 650 guys are replacing with SH775, which is Polaris 4012941, rated at 35 amps. There is a later one, Polaris 40016868 series type (number unknown) alledgedly rated at 50 amps, maybe slightly larger in physical size. To me, the SH847 is overkill for a 350 watt stator. On these lower output stators, an FH020 would do just fine. Another reference point, my Versys 1000 (2016 - 29A stator) OEM R/R is an SH866 (~$220), rating unknown, same size as FH020 or SH775. Redline is 10k rpm and no you don't live there. These guys looking up Polaris numbers are just trying to get R/R's for $100, which isn't likely these days.... what you also need is the connectors and make yourself a harness...... Roadster's all in one solution, well let's just say save yourself the time and trouble, his harness is robust and made of quality wire... The SH775 kit is $195.
  13. My guess is the output is around 350 watts...... by comparison, an FJR1300 puts out 590 watts and they use an FH020AA from the factory, and they don't fail....... so my opinion is you don't need an 847.
  14. Idea....... why go big butt SH847? How about SH775 for same format size as FH020AA... do you really need the capabilities of an 847? Jack at Roadster Cycle could advise you further.....
  15. OK lesson learned..... checked other sources for the specific bike application.... spring rates are generally higher for VFR's, depending on your weight... 1000-1300 lbs/in. Carry on.... 🤐 😁
  16. ducnut, a 1300 lb. spring? You sure? Must ride like a rock..... a 200 lb. guy only needs an 850, or 900 at the most....... sometimes there's a number stamped on the spring, and it can be decoded, spring rate is usually the last few digits........
  17. What they said........ but just saw this if you're going down that road......... https://vfrworld.com/threads/5th-gen-parts-for-sale-sargent-seat-ecu.60057/#post-633504
  18. Might I suggest a Delkevic high mount instead?
  19. That may indicate stronger front springs, but now you have adjustable damping!! Sounds like you have to back off all the damping and go through a suspension setup process. Measure sag to see if the springs are "too much", but the springs may have a spring rate etched into them. On the rear shock, see if there's a stamped number on the spring, usually those can be decoded to see what spring rate you have back there....... might be a bit much also, but play with the damping as well to match the front.
  20. The bike isn't going to feel like a telelever, so I imagine you'll have to adapt somewhat. First thing I'd do is get the weight off the front end and turn the handlebars side to side to see if there is any notchiness to the steering head bearings.... depending on mileage, they tend to develop a "flat spot" and tend to self-center.... the cure, tapered rollers. IMHO, the stock fork springs are 0.75 kg/mm spring rate and are OK for your weight. If someone put stiffer aftermarket springs (say 0.90-1.0) then that may be a tad stiff, but IMHO a stiffer front end isn't necessarily a bad thing. You can check sag, and that should tell you if you are where you should be. Depending on mileage, and if the previous owner changed the fork oil to a heavier oil, that would affect damping. The stock oil should be fine, but maybe it's time for a refresh anyway. If you do have the forks apart, and if aftermarket springs, sometimes the spring rate is etched into the end of the spring or on one of the coils. Check the rear end sag and set the preload accordingly.
  21. Was perhaps a coolant used that had silicates in it? Is it a bit gritty? I don't think there's a need to panic, I'd just put a non-silicate coolant in and perhaps drain a sample next year......
  22. When you put your braided lines on, fill the reservoirs, let gravity do its thing until you get the master cylinders primed and fluid at the conventional bleeder screws. Once the system is full, you can swap them out for SpeedBleeders. You won't be able to fill an empty system with SpeedBleeders installed.......
  23. SpeedBleeders are great, order them direct. Correct they won't work with an empty system and not very well with a vac tool. I fill first mostly letting gravity do its job. Mixed results with vac tools, I always finish off the conventional way. You will (should) need to use thread sealer on conventional bleeders also, even grease works, some use Teflon tape. I keep reading how many have problems bleeding Honda linked systems..... the secret is, once you have everything cleaned up, bleed the system per the manual. Then, every year, do a quick bleed, it doesn't take much to have fresh fluid, just a few ounces. Do that with every bike you own. You'll prevent all your problems and shouldn't have to re-live your nightmares again for a very long time. Proportioning valve already has a special bleeder screw with an o-ring, no need to change that one. Hang your rear caliper high when bleeding.
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