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raYzerman

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Everything posted by raYzerman

  1. The chat feature works, but I don't know who told who in admin or who is waiting for who to do something........
  2. If I might add, do not neglect the ground side of things.... the spider connector taped into the wire harness, left side, and the grounding screw on the right side frame.
  3. I'd recommend no speed bleeders when fillling an empty system..... regular bleeder screws, just open them and let gravity get things started after a few minutes, then start pumping. Speed bleeders can't effectively pass air without fluid right there. Even if you use a vacuum system, I'd still leave the speed bleeders out until you got the lines initially full, then put them in for your final bleeding the old fashioned way.
  4. I'd recommend removing the rear caliper now and hanging it high once you have the system filled....... final bleed with it high.
  5. A good flare nut wrench.... hopefully you haven't rounded it off too bad. I agree penetrant and consider heat with a pencil flame torch. Mine came off without the torch, but one has to keep his swear jar handy, lol.
  6. Very simple circuit...... Light green supplies power from switch to the horn when horn switch pushed (assuming your horn switch is good). When button pushed, check voltage at horn. If good, then either the ground is faulty or the horn is bad or bad connection at the horn. Can bench test the horn if you need to. The green ground wire is shared with all the forward lighting.... if that all works, then the ground may be good.
  7. You need to flush out the crud first.... WD40 is naptha and a very light oil. Lock de-icer works, it will likely have alcohol as a solvent. Lots of opinions what to use as a lube, use graphite if you want but preventative maintenance is a flush and then lube once a year. Likely won't matter a lot what you use if you do this. Ask a locksmith what he recommends. Another suggestion........ https://3inone.com/product/3-in-one-lock-dry-lube/
  8. I've had various key sticking issues on bikes. First thing you need is a good flush to get any built-up dirt/crud/graphite out of the tumblers, use WD40 if you like. Then I'd use a light lube such as lock de-icer that may have some oil in it. I wouldn't put graphite in that's usually more trouble down the road. A worn key (or tumbler) will cause the tumbler not to be flush with the housing, thus it can't turn. If that's an issue, sometimes you can remove the tumbler barrel, insert the key, and file the tumblers flush.
  9. I used OEM torque with no problem. However, check side to side turning effort the old fashioned way, should be little to no drag.
  10. The Roadsmart 3's are a harder compound...... must be well warmed up and not a cool/wet weather tire.... I imagine the 1200 could spin them out...... better off with a softer compound sport touring tire.
  11. I'd ensure you have fresh fluid flush, check the slave is not sticking (for that delayed launch). Notchy clutch basket can contribute..... full inspection recommended, clean them up while you're in there. Basically it's preventative maintenance for the price of a gasket.
  12. Was the replacement R/R an OEM or a mofset?
  13. No, but I think you should buy another VFR800X and ship it over here. I'll store it for you, make sure there's no rust gets on the cylinder walls.
  14. I didn't see any way without removing the cables from the TB's.... there is one screw that is very fiddly to get back in the bracket, it's right between the two adjusters. I did it without taking the airbox off if memory serves......
  15. Yellow is awesome, and the fastest colour.......
  16. How about get in touch with Galfer and get a couple of their little "olives". They are brass and will take up any mismatch between two flares. A replacement brake line, is the flare going to be any different than what you have? Is it obviously buggered up or still look good? I think you are steel on steel, so maybe all you gotta do is crank them tighter?
  17. PAIR systems are perhaps a little misunderstood... they passively let air into the exhaust ports post-combustion to help burn unburned gasses, and usually only on deceleration does the solenoid open. Should have no effect on performance, only emissions.
  18. Ah OK, didn't realize you had HEL.... sometimes just backing off and re-snug will fix flare leaks, but I'd take it apart and see whazzup with the flare end and if OK, try again...
  19. Download the Galfer instructions for the kit... they mention and supply two "olive" conic inversers (their term), which are brass ferrules to insert into two fittings where an OEM line joins theirs...... these will crush slightly as you snug up the fittings, thus taking up any difference between the two flares and seal properly... I am wondering if you are missing these. I have no pics of the item, nor it appears does Galfer. They would have been in your kit. Recommend you download the instructions from Galfer for the D195-11 kit. One "olive" and fitting goes on the end of line "D" and the other on the end of line "F". In both locations you are mating to an existing steel line. I do not see the block fitting in your photo, so perhaps you are doing it differently or not using the 11 line kit. Tighten as you might, it may not seal? https://galferusa.com/technical/instructions/honda-instructions
  20. In your video, battery is getting a little weaker with each start attempt since you're not running/riding the bike long enough to fully charge the battery. I didn't hear anything unusual in your 3 start attempts, suspect the starter clutch is just fine..... you need to get the battery load tested, but sounds like you need a new one perhaps.
  21. If I were doing it again...... gauges either green or blue LED's. I got green to match the voltmeter and shift indicator because green shows up in daylight better than blue or red in those two. Amber signal indicators, keeps me from forgetting to cancel my signals. For the other lights, I'd leave incandescent except perhaps Neutral light and oil pressure, I don't mind those bright, but certainly OK as is. High beam indicator and FI definitely incandescent. I got all mine from SuperbrightLED's they are the brightest I've found, 7443 amber turn signals, etc.
  22. Mine with FI changed to LED..... constantly lit, so not recommended for that one. I'll be swapping the FI bulb back to incandescent.
  23. OK lesson learned..... checked other sources for the specific bike application.... spring rates are generally higher for VFR's, depending on your weight... 1000-1300 lbs/in. Carry on.... 🤐 😁
  24. ducnut, a 1300 lb. spring? You sure? Must ride like a rock..... a 200 lb. guy only needs an 850, or 900 at the most....... sometimes there's a number stamped on the spring, and it can be decoded, spring rate is usually the last few digits........
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