TheLimey

Purchased from Twisted Throttle and never used. Brand new in packaging. Clear screen with very similar lines to OE screen apart from a pronounced lip at the top for added wind protection. (Second picture from Twisted Throttle site for demonstration purposes only) $90 + shipping

This seems a common occurrence. More than likely the little nylon hex drive that couples the speed sensor on the sprocket cover to the front sprocket bolt head has got pushed down on its shaft a little too far. This means it's not quite seating on the front sprocket bolt fully and gives erratic speed readings. You just need to whip the sprocket cover off and pull the nylon hex drive up on its shaft a little and then remount it.

I recently fitted RC51 fairings to my VFR and have all the original fairings for sale. Everything is in great physical condition (no cracks, all tabs and mounting points present) but most panels have cosmetic scrapes and scratches. I'm located in Denver, CO if anybody wants to pick things up in person, or I can arrange shipping. Please DM me if there's an item(s) you're interested in and would like a shipping quote or more pictures of anything. Front fender $50 Seat cowl $40 SOLD Under tray $30 Tail unit with 2006+ clear brake lights $150 Seat $40 Right-hand fairing $70 Left-hand fairing $70 SOLD Nose/front/upper fairing and headlights (bulbs included, no temp sensor) $200 SOLD V-piece/lower fairing $20 Chain guard $10 Meter/clock surround $10 SOLD Upper infill panels $20 Mid fairing infill panels $10 Seat unit infill panels $10 SOLD Windshield covers $10 SOLD

Regulator-Rectifier.

I think the only real difference is the exit where the link pipe fits on a 6th Gen is about 5/8" shorter for easier fitment, but they're otherwise identical.

I'm definitely more of an over man, myself. Oops, wrong forum...

Cool. You learn something new every day.

I can't see why it would. The net result with passivation and polishing/wire brushing is all the same; you're revealing a fresh top surface of metal to allow the chrome content to oxidise. Once it's reacted with the atmosphere it forms a boundary layer preventing further oxidation beneath it. I think the only benefit of passivation over mechanical methods is it's quicker, removes virtually no material and can get into all the nooks and crannies around the weld beads.

All passivation does is acid etch the surface to restore the chrome oxide layer that's destroyed by the heat of welding, which is what gives stainless steel its high corrosion resistance. It's perfectly normal for the tubing to discolour a little after a few heat cycles. The passivation is only to stop the headers from rusting at the welds.

I've been running my VFR for a while now without a heat shield and even with the stock headers on, I can feel the heat through my boot. It's fine while you're on the move, but does tend to get a little toasty when you're sat at the lights. I wouldn't want to ride it without boots and leathers on.

Mine arrived yesterday safe and sound. I've just gotta make myself a link pipe now. I might have to sit on the bike and make engine noises in the meantime.

One of those 6th Gen headers is mine and the centre stand was one of the first things I removed from my bike, so I won't be needing a stop.

Megasquirt seems to be the go-to for most people doing such conversions. http://megasquirt.info/

Fingers crossed. I think your payment makes at least six, which is the minimum Wade will build. Come on people!

You'll be operating all three of the rear caliper pistons with the rear master cylinder rather than just the outer two. The middle was previously operated by the secondary master cylinder on the front left caliper, but now you're going to link all three rear pistons together.