TheLimey

Anybody able to help me out with this?

I recently tried to install a knock-off KOSO RX-2N speedo on my 6th Gen and, lo and behold, it's rubbish. No combination of button pressing will allow me to calibrate either the tacho or speedometer on it. Anywho, I'd like to go back to the original unit but have apparently lost my very carefully written notes detailing the original 20P connector pinout. I know from my Haynes manual which wire goes in which pin, but I'm unsure in which order. Is it 1 to 10 across the top row, or is it N-pattern where position 2 sits directly beneath position 1 on the bottom row? Could somebody please take a picture of the back of their speedo connector so I can piece together the correct pinout?

Regulator-Rectifier.

I think the only real difference is the exit where the link pipe fits on a 6th Gen is about 5/8" shorter for easier fitment, but they're otherwise identical.

I'm definitely more of an over man, myself. Oops, wrong forum...

Cool. You learn something new every day.

I can't see why it would. The net result with passivation and polishing/wire brushing is all the same; you're revealing a fresh top surface of metal to allow the chrome content to oxidise. Once it's reacted with the atmosphere it forms a boundary layer preventing further oxidation beneath it. I think the only benefit of passivation over mechanical methods is it's quicker, removes virtually no material and can get into all the nooks and crannies around the weld beads.

All passivation does is acid etch the surface to restore the chrome oxide layer that's destroyed by the heat of welding, which is what gives stainless steel its high corrosion resistance. It's perfectly normal for the tubing to discolour a little after a few heat cycles. The passivation is only to stop the headers from rusting at the welds.

I've been running my VFR for a while now without a heat shield and even with the stock headers on, I can feel the heat through my boot. It's fine while you're on the move, but does tend to get a little toasty when you're sat at the lights. I wouldn't want to ride it without boots and leathers on.

Mine arrived yesterday safe and sound. I've just gotta make myself a link pipe now. I might have to sit on the bike and make engine noises in the meantime.

One of those 6th Gen headers is mine and the centre stand was one of the first things I removed from my bike, so I won't be needing a stop.

Megasquirt seems to be the go-to for most people doing such conversions. http://megasquirt.info/

Fingers crossed. I think your payment makes at least six, which is the minimum Wade will build. Come on people!

You'll be operating all three of the rear caliper pistons with the rear master cylinder rather than just the outer two. The middle was previously operated by the secondary master cylinder on the front left caliper, but now you're going to link all three rear pistons together.

PM'd SF on Saturday and have yet to hear back.