TheLimey

Anybody able to help me out with this?

I recently tried to install a knock-off KOSO RX-2N speedo on my 6th Gen and, lo and behold, it's rubbish. No combination of button pressing will allow me to calibrate either the tacho or speedometer on it. Anywho, I'd like to go back to the original unit but have apparently lost my very carefully written notes detailing the original 20P connector pinout. I know from my Haynes manual which wire goes in which pin, but I'm unsure in which order. Is it 1 to 10 across the top row, or is it N-pattern where position 2 sits directly beneath position 1 on the bottom row? Could somebody please take a picture of the back of their speedo connector so I can piece together the correct pinout?

Purchased from Twisted Throttle and never used. Brand new in packaging. Clear screen with very similar lines to OE screen apart from a pronounced lip at the top for added wind protection. (Second picture from Twisted Throttle site for demonstration purposes only) $90 + shipping

This seems a common occurrence. More than likely the little nylon hex drive that couples the speed sensor on the sprocket cover to the front sprocket bolt head has got pushed down on its shaft a little too far. This means it's not quite seating on the front sprocket bolt fully and gives erratic speed readings. You just need to whip the sprocket cover off and pull the nylon hex drive up on its shaft a little and then remount it.

I recently fitted RC51 fairings to my VFR and have all the original fairings for sale. Everything is in great physical condition (no cracks, all tabs and mounting points present) but most panels have cosmetic scrapes and scratches. I'm located in Denver, CO if anybody wants to pick things up in person, or I can arrange shipping. Please DM me if there's an item(s) you're interested in and would like a shipping quote or more pictures of anything. Front fender $50 Seat cowl $40 SOLD Under tray $30 Tail unit with 2006+ clear brake lights $150 Seat $40 Right-hand fairing $70 Left-hand fairing $70 SOLD Nose/front/upper fairing and headlights (bulbs included, no temp sensor) $200 SOLD V-piece/lower fairing $20 Chain guard $10 Meter/clock surround $10 SOLD Upper infill panels $20 Mid fairing infill panels $10 Seat unit infill panels $10 SOLD Windshield covers $10 SOLD

The jelly you're talking about is Jello to Americans. When Americans say jelly they're referring to jam.

Perhaps, if you unbolt the cable tether at the front of the tank you could get it to open up some more.

I think for the money you'd invest in having the engine work done, most people would just buy a faster bike. If you really want to chase horsepower, the 5th Gen engine can be made to fit with relative ease and the power gains are much more accessible since much of the architecture was based on the RC45.

It looks like it's taken a fair whack on the nose and I'd be concerned about damage to the forks and the frame primarily. If you're converting it to a street-fighter, chances are you're gonna replace everything else up front anyway. See if you can get the bike on the centrestand and get a feel for the condition of the headstock bearings as an indicator of possible headstock damage. Also, check for creases in the fork stanchions.

Regulator-Rectifier.

...Or we could just keep it to motorbikes.

Looking at the fork tops, I think it's an '89 (K-model) as the first year NC30s came with damper rod forks, before Honda changed to a cartridge style with rebound adjustment on the fork tops. http://www.akhara.com/nc30/nc30parts/index.htm

I think the only real difference is the exit where the link pipe fits on a 6th Gen is about 5/8" shorter for easier fitment, but they're otherwise identical.

I de-linked my brake system when I did my suspension. I'm now running F4i lowers up front with DMr cartridges, 954 calipers, 600RR front master cylinder, F4i rear master cylinder, DMr rear shock and the OE rear caliper that's been drilled for a single brake line (routed through the swingarm) with AS3 braided lines throughout. Pretty much everything I've done is colour-by-numbers, but it works very well. You couldn't pay me to go back to the CBS.

It's the bottom rib one you need. It says so in the thread I linked to.