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TheLimey

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TheLimey last won the day on June 10

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About TheLimey

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wheat Ridge, CO
  • In My Garage:
    2003 VFR800 V-Tec (although I've owned several NC30s in the past)

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  1. I think for the money you'd invest in having the engine work done, most people would just buy a faster bike. If you really want to chase horsepower, the 5th Gen engine can be made to fit with relative ease and the power gains are much more accessible since much of the architecture was based on the RC45.
  2. It looks like it's taken a fair whack on the nose and I'd be concerned about damage to the forks and the frame primarily. If you're converting it to a street-fighter, chances are you're gonna replace everything else up front anyway. See if you can get the bike on the centrestand and get a feel for the condition of the headstock bearings as an indicator of possible headstock damage. Also, check for creases in the fork stanchions.
  3. ...Or we could just keep it to motorbikes.
  4. Looking at the fork tops, I think it's an '89 (K-model) as the first year NC30s came with damper rod forks, before Honda changed to a cartridge style with rebound adjustment on the fork tops. http://www.akhara.com/nc30/nc30parts/index.htm
  5. I think the only real difference is the exit where the link pipe fits on a 6th Gen is about 5/8" shorter for easier fitment, but they're otherwise identical.
  6. I de-linked my brake system when I did my suspension. I'm now running F4i lowers up front with DMr cartridges, 954 calipers, 600RR front master cylinder, F4i rear master cylinder, DMr rear shock and the OE rear caliper that's been drilled for a single brake line (routed through the swingarm) with AS3 braided lines throughout. Pretty much everything I've done is colour-by-numbers, but it works very well. You couldn't pay me to go back to the CBS.
  7. It's the bottom rib one you need. It says so in the thread I linked to.
  8. I'm definitely more of an over man, myself. Oops, wrong forum...
  9. Ah, now I see. Thanks for the clarification. I think I might give this a try for myself.
  10. Forgive me if I'm missing something, but aren't you losing the main benefit of going to an R6 throttle tube by milling it down to match the cam profile of the original VFR item? Surely, if the diameters are the same, it's not really a quick action throttle any more?
  11. I can't see why it would. The net result with passivation and polishing/wire brushing is all the same; you're revealing a fresh top surface of metal to allow the chrome content to oxidise. Once it's reacted with the atmosphere it forms a boundary layer preventing further oxidation beneath it. I think the only benefit of passivation over mechanical methods is it's quicker, removes virtually no material and can get into all the nooks and crannies around the weld beads.
  12. All passivation does is acid etch the surface to restore the chrome oxide layer that's destroyed by the heat of welding, which is what gives stainless steel its high corrosion resistance. It's perfectly normal for the tubing to discolour a little after a few heat cycles. The passivation is only to stop the headers from rusting at the welds.
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