Tightwad

I spoke with Rick at Ricks Motorsport Electrics about this as they make an RR specifically for lithium batteries. Their regulator is only for the Yamaha style at this time but they are working on one for the Honda as well. The Lithium specific R/R is capped at 14V to avoid the overcharging issue you could encounter that would shorten the life of the lithium batteries. I will be sure to post when the new RR is available and I will put it on my site as well.

13.7V is on the low side, but acceptable. If your parts are all OEM it may be "normal". Aftermarket R/R is set to 14.6V (Ricks is) and the Shingeden ones I believe are 14.4/14.5 or so. I'm not a fan of throwing parts at a bike or a car...I'd make a horrible paid mechanic... If 13.7V makes you nervous, you can change out the Stator and R/R and bolster the wiring, you will get 14.4V +

Charging at idle may not occur at all, depending on where your "idle" is. At 1100 RPM voltage from the stator can be 18 VAC...when rectified it may resolve as <13V easily, especially with lights on and possibly the cooling fan etc. If by 1500 RPM you aren't over 13V then you need to look deeper. I see nothing wrong with your results, what voltage are you getting at 5K rpm?

Nice bike, looks well maintained and fully supportive of your MBS affliction...

The big end of the positive battery wire is crimped on...I doubt you can just pull it out. It would be easier to just cut the wire out of the main harness and run a second loop to the battery terminal instead. I have zero memory of originally posting in this thread but its one of the things that lead to the invention of the VFRness. Crazy how fast 10 years goes by when you are busy Adulting

Please send it to me and I will check it out and fix/return it Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

I love the spacer idea....simplicity at it's best. I am currently test printing the original adapter to see how it works out. The first print was good even at medium resolution and in PLA. I am trying a different orientation to see if the delamination issues I expect to happen based on how a 3D printer works can be avoided.

You can get a replacement connector from eBay but the wires are too small so you will want bigger wires on the red wires. Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

I have a couple extra cones that will work from the Harbor Freight kits if you need one...I am sure I could ship it to you cheap.

Very nice!

If anyone has the cad file I would love to try printing it on my 3D printer just because I can. I haven't printed any ABS yet, this would be a good candidate and my ABS filament is feeling left out. Email it to me if you have it - tilton at gmail.com

Did you lose a gear from your custom keychain?

I made a similar mistake when adjusting the valves on mine...missed a torque spec and the front cam gear came loose...I kept the bent valves as a reminder. I was able to swap in a used head for minimal expense.

I only attended the original ride...part of an epic 3300 mile trip with DutchIntercepter that I still love to think about. Not sure Southern Utah has the same twisties you get in the Colorado Rockies...Monument Valley etc are beautiful but some LONG straight roads! Dillon was fun, the Dam Brewery was fun to joke about and the roads were amazing. Even Diddit with his ticket issues and bloody nose were memorable...

Sorry I haven't been as active of late so I missed your questions. I always leave the possibility of human error open on these harnesses...I build them by hand and have on occasion made a mistake (don't tell my wife I confessed that). The VFRness should (in theory) have no effect on the buzzing relay. In general the buzz means the relay isn't getting the power it needs to fully make it's connection. Did you confirm that the red wire going to the starter relay was correctly inserted? The wiring on the VFRness is fairly simple. It forms a T between the OEM R/R connectors. In theory this is duplicating the path to ground (on the frame at the R/R) and to the battery (via the 8 gauge wire that runs to the battery + terminal). The relay is only there to provide the OEM R/R with a clean reading...without it you could have an overcharging scenario. If you disconnected the VFRness from ground and battery it would be nothing more than 12" of additional wiring between the R/R and the OEM harness. Based on the numbers you gave it sounds like your VFRness relay is stuck in the "on" position. Disconnect the relay and check the following with the key off: Red to Ground (12V expected) Purple to Ground (0v expected) Green to Battery + (12V expected) Blue to Ground (0V expected) With the key on and the relay disconnected the only difference should be the blue wire now has voltage If the voltages are right at the relay, try a different Bosch style 4 or 5 pin relay. You should not have power to the purple wire(relay output) or blue wir (relay input) unless the key is on because the blue wire is connected to the ignition switch. Joshau