Tightwad

I spoke with Rick at Ricks Motorsport Electrics about this as they make an RR specifically for lithium batteries. Their regulator is only for the Yamaha style at this time but they are working on one for the Honda as well. The Lithium specific R/R is capped at 14V to avoid the overcharging issue you could encounter that would shorten the life of the lithium batteries. I will be sure to post when the new RR is available and I will put it on my site as well.

13.7V is on the low side, but acceptable. If your parts are all OEM it may be "normal". Aftermarket R/R is set to 14.6V (Ricks is) and the Shingeden ones I believe are 14.4/14.5 or so. I'm not a fan of throwing parts at a bike or a car...I'd make a horrible paid mechanic... If 13.7V makes you nervous, you can change out the Stator and R/R and bolster the wiring, you will get 14.4V +

Charging at idle may not occur at all, depending on where your "idle" is. At 1100 RPM voltage from the stator can be 18 VAC...when rectified it may resolve as <13V easily, especially with lights on and possibly the cooling fan etc. If by 1500 RPM you aren't over 13V then you need to look deeper. I see nothing wrong with your results, what voltage are you getting at 5K rpm?

Nice bike, looks well maintained and fully supportive of your MBS affliction...

The big end of the positive battery wire is crimped on...I doubt you can just pull it out. It would be easier to just cut the wire out of the main harness and run a second loop to the battery terminal instead. I have zero memory of originally posting in this thread but its one of the things that lead to the invention of the VFRness. Crazy how fast 10 years goes by when you are busy Adulting

Please send it to me and I will check it out and fix/return it Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

I love the spacer idea....simplicity at it's best. I am currently test printing the original adapter to see how it works out. The first print was good even at medium resolution and in PLA. I am trying a different orientation to see if the delamination issues I expect to happen based on how a 3D printer works can be avoided.

You can get a replacement connector from eBay but the wires are too small so you will want bigger wires on the red wires. Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

I have a couple extra cones that will work from the Harbor Freight kits if you need one...I am sure I could ship it to you cheap.

Very nice!

If anyone has the cad file I would love to try printing it on my 3D printer just because I can. I haven't printed any ABS yet, this would be a good candidate and my ABS filament is feeling left out. Email it to me if you have it - tilton at gmail.com

Did you lose a gear from your custom keychain?

I made a similar mistake when adjusting the valves on mine...missed a torque spec and the front cam gear came loose...I kept the bent valves as a reminder. I was able to swap in a used head for minimal expense.

I only attended the original ride...part of an epic 3300 mile trip with DutchIntercepter that I still love to think about. Not sure Southern Utah has the same twisties you get in the Colorado Rockies...Monument Valley etc are beautiful but some LONG straight roads! Dillon was fun, the Dam Brewery was fun to joke about and the roads were amazing. Even Diddit with his ticket issues and bloody nose were memorable...

Sorry I haven't been as active of late so I missed your questions. I always leave the possibility of human error open on these harnesses...I build them by hand and have on occasion made a mistake (don't tell my wife I confessed that). The VFRness should (in theory) have no effect on the buzzing relay. In general the buzz means the relay isn't getting the power it needs to fully make it's connection. Did you confirm that the red wire going to the starter relay was correctly inserted? The wiring on the VFRness is fairly simple. It forms a T between the OEM R/R connectors. In theory this is duplicating the path to ground (on the frame at the R/R) and to the battery (via the 8 gauge wire that runs to the battery + terminal). The relay is only there to provide the OEM R/R with a clean reading...without it you could have an overcharging scenario. If you disconnected the VFRness from ground and battery it would be nothing more than 12" of additional wiring between the R/R and the OEM harness. Based on the numbers you gave it sounds like your VFRness relay is stuck in the "on" position. Disconnect the relay and check the following with the key off: Red to Ground (12V expected) Purple to Ground (0v expected) Green to Battery + (12V expected) Blue to Ground (0V expected) With the key on and the relay disconnected the only difference should be the blue wire now has voltage If the voltages are right at the relay, try a different Bosch style 4 or 5 pin relay. You should not have power to the purple wire(relay output) or blue wir (relay input) unless the key is on because the blue wire is connected to the ignition switch. Joshau

Biased but I like it...and bike/tank friendly too! viva la gear driven cams!

I am sorry you are having troubles. I didn't see your email but I will respond here in case it helps you and anyone else who is reading this. For testing the installation it is important to understand what the VFRness does. It isn't just to add better grounds, to do that wouldn't require all the other wires, the relay, the direct battery connection or the additional fuse. What it DOES do is duplicate the path from the R/R output to the battery while also improving the ground path of the R/R and the rest of the sub harness. Additionally, for those who are still running the stock Honda R/R the VFRness provides a more stable indication of the charging voltage than the OEM wiring did by using a relayed connection to the battery to read the voltage back to the R/R (the white/black wire). The VFRness also helps alleviate the Main Fuse B wire meltdown issue, which dispite the recall efforts put into place after the VFRNess proved a success continue to be a problem. To test: Key off, the red wire should have 12V (battery voltage) when tested to ground, the green wire should show continuity to ground, the blue wire should show no voltage and the purple wire should also show no voltage. Key on, engine off: The relay should be engaged at this point so the blue wire should show battery voltage with a voltage drop from the ignition (slight bit) and the purple wire should show battery voltage. There are a couple of common issues people have: The fuses (20amp) may need to be upped to 25amp IF your wiring has degraded a bit and the load carried by the bike isn't high enough and the VFRness (which carries more of the load) gets overwhelmed. This will cause the VFRness fuse to blow and then the bike fuse. There should be no disconnected connectors...the VFRness T's into the R/R wiring, it doesn't replace the bike side Hopefully this helps, I am sorry again that I never got/saw your email, I try to answer all of them quickly! Joshua

Such a beautiful bike! Good luck with it and I hope you have a short winter so you can properly enjoy it soon. Jealous you are in Luxembourg!

Leon - Didn't I bring you a different part a couple years ago? I thought you had upgraded the R/R to a 98-99 model one or something? Its been two years so my brain has forgotten most everything except that Megan and I had a great time at your place!

I don't know a ton about the options for printing. I do know that a local place offers rental of their machine by the hour. My library does it based on the weight (free use of machine, just pay for materials). I have no experience with printing from a cad file...I gather it's fairly easy however.

I have these mirrors/mounts from the origianl buy on my bike. I get a lot of questions (or used to) via my site on where to buy them as the mirrors were visible in the HID Headlight video for the HID kit that I no longer sell (thus the questions stopped). I never had an issue with them breaking, even on a tip over (two of them). I did have a problem where I wished the angle was better...I am only 5'8" and I couldn't quite get them adjusted low enough. I am not sure if this has been addressed but I am guessing not? If one is needed for measuring/replicating let me know...I am not currently riding my bike so I could loan it out for a couple weeks (I would need it back, need to have mirrors!). Let me know, I would love to see these made again! I think printing them would work as long as there were seen as failure parts in the event of a crash...the rest of the bike is plastic, no reason the mounts couldn't be.

Fuses...always have spare fuses! Vice Grips, zip ties and duct tape will cover about everything else except R/R. Stator isn't really worth carrying as they don't fail that often (R/R don't either if protected by good connectors etc)

I need to look at this same thing...had a battery failure and the headlights (low beam) stopped working. I haven't had a chance to dig into it yet. Thanks for the suggestion on a place to look!

I can make a VFRness that will plug into that R/R and to the stock wiring on the bike, if you wanted to go that route. The starter relay and 30 amp fuse are done via the wiring and not directly to the battery so you will need to account for that if you wire directly to the battery from the R/R only.

This is the one that I will use the next time around. This thread (posts 14 and 15) is very promising. http://www.triumphrat.net/3766329-post14.html Jack at roadstercycle also offers it as a kit: http://roadstercycle.com/#SH847_SERIES_RR_KITS_ARE_NOW_AVAILABLE_ I'm not sure if I'll get just the SH847AA from one of vendors like partzilla and then tie it in with my existing VFRNess, using new furkawa connectors from eastern beaver, or if I'll go with the full kit from Jack. Let me know if you need your VFRness modified to work with this R/R. You can send it to me and I can do it for a minimal fee + parts and return shipping.