Steve

Noticed that one of the connectors on my 99 FiX is a little worse for wear. Honda no longer make it!! But I noticed that the connector on a 2002 onwards appears to be the same, so I've taken a gamble and bought one. Has anyone ever had to replace it and did it work?

I need to order the paint to have my petrol tank resprayed by a friend of my BiL. How much should I be buying? 500ml or a 1litre?

Northesk, Don't know if you've done the stainless bolts on the brakes yet, but I recently purchased some of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-VFR-800-Fi-Stainless-joint-bolt-set-Nissin-front-brake-calipers/151176992828?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Will be fitting them today or tomorrow. Will let you know what they are like.

That looks like a gear indicator. I could be wrong. Someone that knows what they are talking about will be along shortly to let you know. ;-)

Excellent cheers for that. Makes it a bit easier to pick up the wire now.

Just bought one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12-V-Motorcycle-Motocicleta-Volt-Meter-Gauge-Car-LED-Digital-Display-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Voltage-Volt-Meter/32810414939.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.yUVruO Now just need some advice on what wire I need to attached to it. I've got a choice of buying 3, 5, 8, 17, 27 amp. So which should I use?

I bought the paint, clear lacquer and etch primer from Halfords (a UK car parts shop - also affectionately referred to as Halfrauds! Due to some of their silly prices) Etch Primer cost £9.99 - C$16.84 - US$12.80 Anthracite Wheel Paint - £7.49 - C$12.63 - US$9.59 Bodyshop Lacquer £9.99 - C$16.84 - US$12.80 It has taken a fair amount of time, but I've not worked on the wheel constantly. I think the key is preparation. I used a steam cleaner to clean the wheel before I even removed the tyre, watched a load of videos on Youtube, mainly a guy called Windy Urtnowski, he did about 7 or 8 videos on painting a rear wheel from an R1. I used a dremel style tool to grind some casting marks out of the wheel to give a smoother appearance. Once all cleaned and sanded using 240 grit wet and dry, I used Panel Wipe (Antisil 770) to clean the surface and tac rags. Etch primer, sprayed on and then left for 24 hours before sanding, wipe with tac rag and panel wipe. three coats of the anthracite paint with 15 minutes between coats, had a slight run in the valleys of the spokes, so left for 24 hours again, before using 800 and 1200 grit wet and dry to sand the runs out, 2 more coats of colour, before leaving for 30 minutes and then start on the clear lacquer. Now gonna leave the wheel for about a week, the weather has taken a down turn, before fitting the tyre. Whilst that's drying I'll start on the front wheel :-) Oh and one last piece of advice, get a good mask for use while painting and cleaning - the fumes from a cleaner I used absolutely bloody stunk and gave me a banging headache!! My dad has a woodwork shop and uses lacquer so lent me his 3M 6000 Series mask, I've now bought my own with the appropriate filters.

Well it's done and painted. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Gonna be painting my wheels over the next couple of months. Have already stripped the rear and am in the process of sanding out the casting marks. I've got my etch primer, top coat and clear coat already, but not sure if I should use a filler primer too to hide any little scratches or if a couple/three coats of etch primer will suffice. There's not really any scratches on the wheel, but I want the wheels to come out looking the dogs danglies :-) Building a wheel balancer with my Dad next month too, got the balancer, just making a wooden frame.

Tightwad thank you so much for the offer. Looks like I may have sorted it out. I turned the cones around and it works! Amazing what happens when you're half asleep from a night shift :-)

I recently purchased a black pro wheel balancer kit with the intention of stripping, painting and then installing new tyres. It looks like I've fallen at the first hurdle. The balancer doesn't seem to accommodate the rear wheel as the cones are too thin and too long. Anyone got any ideas on how I can get round this. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Just my 2c, I have a Motobatt for mine when it's ready. Read rave reviews about them, and have had it for about 2.5 years, it's sat on the shelf waiting to be installed, has only lost about 0.1v in that time!

But it won't rust!

Found on rbay UK http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CBR900RR-fender-TITANIUM-bolt-90104-MN4-000-CBR1000RR-lower-cowl-/262513395800?var=&hash=item3d1f048858:m:m5V0u_keeOPnYDHbPybnItQ

https://micksbikeparts.com/search.php?search_query=64440-MBG-670ZA. Don't know if you've managed to source the stickers yet or not. Wonder if this will help.