Auspanglish

Thicker than the existing green wires... Maybe a 12 or 14 gauge I think. There's a bolt which threads into the main arm of the chassis very conveniently on the left hand side about where the front and side fairings join. Ring terminal and you're sorted.

Sounds like multiple issues not from a common source I would hazard to guess. Firstly, 2003 model... Get in touch with a Honda dealer and have them check via the VIN if the wiring harness recall was done. If not, have it done. Next, it's not the oil temp displayed on the clocks but the coolant temp. The sensor is located on the rear right hand wall of the front cylinder bank. In the V of the engine. Not known to fail but there's always a first. You did well to swap in new coolant and burp the air as that's exactly the symptomatology you would expect from air trapped in the system according to what you described. The VFR can be stubborn to bleed air from, worth reburping. It is possible some of these display related issues are the result of the crappy common ground bus connector which is in the front wiring loom, whether or not it's had the recall, Honda didn't change the connector for a decent effective one, so it is highly suggested you eliminate this connector, properly solder all the incoming and outgoing wires, including a reinforcement to an alternative ground with a decent gauge wire. There's a thread on here about it, I'll post a link A.S.A.P. LINK: https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/62525-faulty-ground-connector/&share_tid=62525&share_fid=35196&share_type=t The tachometer issue may be due to the mechanism which is a nylon female spindle (pardon the contradiction) which is located on the front sprocket nut and prone to gradual wear or breakage, and thus intermittent functioning. It could also be due to the 6th gen's famous stator frying tendencies, search for a thread titled "the drill", or follow the service manual's indications for checking the Stator and charging system. Manual is in the download section on this forum. You will need a multimeter. Good luck, once sorted it's a nice bike!

It's not such a difficult task to remove TBs, just time consuming. Hope you angled all the screws so you can reach them with an extension through the TBs by just lifting fuel tank and airbox.

For some reason I'm absolutely sure about the future.

If my whatchamacallit doesn't fail me, the SP1 fan is the one you want, not the SP2 one. The info is on the forum in a thread somewhere...if people used the same thread instead of opening new ones the info would all be in the one place and easy to find.

Further Upstream from that blue connector hidden in the front wiring harness under the black electrical tape they use to wrap the wiring loom along the left hand side branch of the front fairing stay or bracket there is a common ground bus connector which is famous for failing even if it looks optically okay check this thread and do the mod... https://scontent.fmad3-4.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/36914223_2259554630938904_766663056884236288_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=32d146f7afd63ceac7e7f40dac795776&oe=5BCFBFDC

Leon that IS a run off zone and it CAN happen. Less statistically likely but possible. Jealous, I inherited a 400D... 1100? Them's fightin' words them is!! Peace!

Cazzo!! 7 Our Fathers and a bunch of Hail Marys to redeem yourself for even THINKING it!!

Awetastic pics!! Don't like the thought of hitting those metal guardrails at the edge of the run off zone...

I'm also into keeping stuff clean but those towels don't break down and aren't recyclable, I know motorsports are far removed from environmental issues but the baby butt wipe towels, furniture cleaning towels, all these towels are creating massive headaches for waste disposal plants. Old rags and some elbow grease and pay it forward into your kids' future a little!! Every little bit counts

Looks like a fun track Urban

The 6th gen is an electricians nightmare

The snorkel is not a moving part. The snorkel (#3) is that forward projecting protuberance leaving the upper right front part of the airbox and which angles downwards at its forward most extreme. Some remove this in the belief that the airbox "breathes" better. It certainly increases intake noise. The part that moves is a trapdoor found on the upper left forward-facing part of the airbox. It is vacuum actuated facilitated by a valve (#8) and solenoid. It's a somewhat unrefined solution to air-petrol mixture requirements as the air pressure and engine requirements vary according to RPMs and actual forward motion. The latter "forcing" more air in due to supposed higher relative pressure outside the box being lower when slower and higher when you're going faster. We've all heard of ram air systems ramming the air in. I personally think Honda haven't measured the pressure differentials where it matters and hence my reference to it as unrefined. The trapdoor, commonly known as the "flapper", is responsible for the "tock" noise one hears at low speeds/rpms as it opens and closes, usually when setting off or manoeuvring around a carpark, for example.

No, the thermostat has bimetal bits that lengthen or shorten at certain temps. You test it in a saucepan of hot water with a thermometer... Watch it open and close checking at what temps. Temp range is specified in service manual, you can download on this forum.