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Auspanglish last won the day on September 30 2018

Auspanglish had the most liked content!

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About Auspanglish

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    Everyone´s different except me!!
  • Birthday 12/12/1971

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  • In My Garage:
    98 VFR800FI: Sold
    03 VFR800FI: Sold
    02 Triumph Tiger 955i

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  1. No, no, by all means... I didn't take it as harsh. There was no emotional content or derogatory commentary, it was concise and precise, a good call. What matters is that the data recorded here is accurate. Interestingly enough some products or substances will remove a lot of baked on grease and grime, especially on the wheels and the chain, much better than others as there is a chemical phenomenon wherein like dissolves like, that is to say that substances of a similar nature will absorb, or assimilate, other substances of a similar nature much more easily and that's why it's so easy to clean things up on a motorcycle rim with WD-40 or kerosene or other petroleum-based products, even some furniture polishing sprays work really well because they must have a similar molecular structure and don't repel each other, but just using some water obviously gets you nowhere... So, lipids will dissolve easier in lipids and aqueous substances will merge with aqueous substances blah blah blah, some vitamins are hidrosoluble others are liposoluble. Soap merely used to be saponified animal fat and this was good at cleaning our skin because we have sebaceous glands and the dirt and grime collects on our skin in a film of fatty grease, of our own adipose secretions... we've all heard the expression greasy skin. So anyway I appreciate being called out actually. Now back to your regular viewing, where you'll hear Miss Piggy say...
  2. Well, half false... but I stand corrected and retract (half of) my statement. I admit my affirmation is flawed. I had an experiment in mind and mistook gasoline for WD40. In rectification, WD40 and kerosene appear to be harmless. This is the experiment I had in mind: https://advrider.com/f/threads/chain-o-ring-wd-40-exposure-effects-study-and-results.345397/ My apologies... I shall humbly proceed to edit my earlier post...
  3. Don't know for sure about the UK I'm afraid. It's a reasonable assumption. What I do know is that kerosene won't harm the o-rings in chains. (Edited according to subsequent posts in order to avoid any misleading notions regarding WD40 and o-rings).
  4. The biggest hurdle I see here is the division of the target audience over 3 or 4 continents or geopolitical areas: 1. USA/Canada 2. Australia. 3. UK 4. Europe CSK are located in the UK so probably economically viable for groups 3 & 4 as above. Numbers-wise the greater interest will surely reside in group 1. Anyone in group 2 will pay through the nose due to tax and shipping, unless they locate a manufacturer in situ. Group 1 might be able to offset costs and make the final price point attractive IF they could finally get together in a cave and groove with a pict all at once, split a deposit for the prototype, then have 10+ of the final product whacked in a crate and slung onto a slow boat through China with a declared value inferior to the real bickies forked out (in order to lower possible customs duties and insurance costs, only if, I repeat only IF, willing to sacrifice on eventual insurance payouts if something did go astray on the way over). Sincerely though, a US manufacturer would surely be able to make some business out of this. Otherwise, the viability pales. The aforementioned geographically limitating factors, general fluctuations in consensus, ebb and flow of VFR800 owners who just come and go, have me in a big comfy armchair with a megalarge tub of popcorn here... don't mean to be a party pooper.
  5. It's often disguised as "Liquid Paraffin"... often sold in garden sections or hardware stores as lamp oil, wick lantern fuel or fire starter... (read the contents as they do differ)
  6. Yep, exactly, the centre rear piston is still actuated by the front brake system, via the secondary master which forms a part of the front left caliper mount. That hasn't changed. Anyway so my suspicion that the OP shouldn't, as he seemed to expect, see a drop in the rear reservoir when bleeding the front right calliper holds true.
  7. My bad. I knew there was an increased bias in the distribution of hydraulic pressure to the front brakes in the CBS system from the 5th to the 6th gen. Nonetheless it went from one piston on the right to none, on pressing the rear brake pedal, respectively. I had thought the changes might have all taken place in the LHS calliper. 5th 6th
  8. Not sure there's a connection between these parts on the 5th gen... Only the front left, and even then, although memory may fail me, levels at the rear reservoir may not be affected. I would have to consult the service manual, it's been 10 years since my 5th gen days.
  9. The clarty slags... Bahahaaa... That's sure some ancient mariner's lingo you picked up in the land of half my DNA!!
  10. Are you testing the stator with the connector unplugged? I assume so. This is the correct form. If so, Stator seems good. It is always advisable to start with the most simple : have your battery load tested. Experienced suspicion say it's the r/r but this is just that, an inkling... scientific method of ruling out is the only fail safe way. Unfortunately yes, the r/r diode test isn't 100% conclusive.
  11. The tests available to the average Joe with a multimeter are not 100% conclusive. The r/r may need renewal. Check your wiring loom, especially the usual suspect connectors. This is one of them... https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/62525-faulty-ground-connector/&share_tid=62525&share_fid=35196&share_type=t Then there's the big blue and grey ones near LHS radiator and the ones near the battery.
  12. I stored the extension handle in with the rest of the tool kit, which I customized by replacing some crappy OEM components and adding a few tools that come in handy. I also replaced the OEM bag with an aftermarket one as the Honda one always tears along the edges of the velcro strip, thus no longer being water tight nor reliable (i.e. small pieces can fall out). Then I put together a second bag with useful bits, like spare fairing clips and bolts, rubber thread wells, replacement nuts and bolts and such, to strap down on the other side. I also used a hard plastic jar (actually an empty flip top chewing gum receptacle, once I'd finished off the 200 "chewies" it contained previously) to store spare light bulbs separated by paper towel in the gap available on non ABS 6th gens, under the seat, inside the black plastic embellishment on the RHS, near where the rear brake fluid reservoir is. Nerdy, I know.
  13. My advice is that this would appear to be a separate topic to the present thread and it may be beneficial to start a separate topic for this matter.
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