coderighter

HELLO HELLO anybody home .... #13

They say it's 'Splash proof'. Mine came with a rubber gasket for the back, so I don't think that will be a problem. I only ride for fun, so I avoid the rain, but I guess if needed, I could clear coat the whole thing. It's very easy to see during the day, but there's no back light for night. However, around town, street lights are enough to see it. I have a female RCA jacket in place of one of the inner push clips that I have hooked to the battery which I use for charger or aux. I was in a hurry to take a ride, so for now I have the meter plugged into the RCA. In future I'll put it on the battery directly.

Actually, I was more proud of the mount but here's the meter. http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&pa=2095040&productId=2095040&CID=octopart I just really wanted a LCD to match the bike's gauges

I just thought I'd share my voltmeter install, as I don't think I've seen another like it. The bottom bracket is slotted so that I can slide it out of the way once the bolts are loose, making the bolts easier to remove.

Come on, anything under 5K is just mailing it in.

I think it's because your not hitting the sweet spot. If you could hit it, she'd be moving alot more.

Kind of gives PAIR blocking a whole new meaning. Maybe he shouldn't have disconnected her flapper.

Good, now I don't have to waste anymore of my time. Hey, I saw online that air filters are just to keep intake noise down. As long as you use a good oil filter, you can remove the air filter and gain top end horse power. There's also power gains in running 0w-20 oil, you just have to change it every other ride.

The plate with the melted seal was put back in because the parimeter seal was fine and that's what I needed for the block plate to work. I will remove it tomorrow and take a picture. In the mean time here is a picture of the reed valves. The set on the left were the leaking ones. Though the exhaust back and forth won't enter the cylinder, as you stated, it could create turbulence in the exhaust flow, but more importantly, hot exhaust traveling back and forth thru the middle of the cylinder is something that needs to be avoided. The PAIR only works at idle, and only when the bike is below normal operating temp. Blocking it makes has no effect since the control valve is closed under throttle. It's just a sugar pill. You think your grand idea made a difference, but it doesn't. Sorry I didn't respond sooner but I thought you had taken the measurements and went away. Don't bother measuring the circuit. I'll nook up a 12v led to the PAIR connector start the bike and shoot a video and show when the valve operates. Then maybe we can put this silly PAIR blocking thing to bed for good.

The cap sealing the valve cover port was in perfect condition and 100% air tight. All the reed valves were installed correctly. Did get out the volt meter and check those voltages from the PAIR connector like I asked? I'm really curious if you have PAIR activation with throttle off idie.

I got it now, sorry was looking at a wrong angle related to your problem. I have done some digging and I think the reason it's melting is because one of your blocking plates is leaking. Because if it is leaking gasses will pass from the exhaust and heat up the aluminum plate, so hot that it could melt the reed. That means your blocking isn't done properly, ergo you have to seal the leak. When there is no leak the plate isn't heating up and the reed shouldn't be heated or do anything at all. In fact, when you mounted the plates, you could have removed the reed in total in my opinion, but I just did the marble trick. The melting isn't caused by the disabling of the pair system, but by a failure (leak) of your attempt to disable the system. That is what I found by reading others that report the same happening and it looks to be the case. As for the effect under power, the paring-system has a major effect under power, but you won't notice with a stock exhaust as it masks it. The riding comfort between 3000~4000rpm completely changed after blocking it. Actually, for the last 4 years I have not had the blocking plate installed, I had disabled the PAIR by removing all hoses and capping the ports on top of the valve covers and, of coarse, the air box. It was when I went to install the blocking plate last weekend that I found the melted valve seat. Since I disabled the PAIR back when the bike had less than 500 mile, I have to believe it happened while it's been disabled. I'm pretty sure that the reed valves are there to keep the cylinders isolated. If the concern was stopping reverse flow to the air box, only one reed valve would have been required right at the port it's self. Without the isolation, there would be some kind of twisted EGR system. I've seen stories where people either installed the blocking plates with reeds still mounted on the plate which causes a leak because the screws are too tall and does not allow the plate to seal. I've also seen where they leave the reed plates out because the screws interfere and this opens a large section under the plate that 'links' the 2 cylinders together. The screws must be removed along with the reeds and the reed plate reinstalled. So..... Did disabling by plugging cause the melt or is this just something that needs to be checked every now and then, whether you PAIR is disabled or not. Are blocking plates the only real way to disable for those that choose to disable?

Blogs and forums, not technical documents. Tell you what, you're listed as a Electronic Engineeer, do this. Apply 12v to the PAIR valve, you'll notice it allows air to pass, remove the 12v and the valve will block the air flow. Now we know that to operate the PAIR, the ECU supplies 12v to the valve. Now start the bike cold and measure the voltage at the PAIR connector on the bike and you'll notice 12v present, meaning PAIR is active. Now keep measuring while slowing taking the throttle off idle and you'll notice as soon as you get off the throttle stop, the voltage goes to zero. If the valve is closed when the throttle is off idle, then the PAIR system as no effect while the bike is under power, blocking the PAIR will make no difference since it's 'blocked' by the valve anyway

Hmm... My 2008 BMW (very much fuel injection) doesn't have any air injection while my 1997 BMW (also fuel injected) does have a air injection. Now why would that be? I didn't say it was a good or bad system. Actually, if it helps reduce emissions, I have no problem with that as long as it doesn't- A) Hurt gas mileage B) Hurt performance C) Cause undo wear on the engine D) Fail, causing A,B, or C The PAIR system doesn't cause A,B, or C. The reason I took mine off was because I was misinformed, much like you. I was told it had to be disabled because it would interfere with my Autotune because the added air would throw off the O2 sensor. Turns out, that's wrong. The statement below is not a guess, or a theory, it's fact. I've actually gotten out a multimeter and saw this with my own eyes, on my bike. The ECU only only operates the solenoid air valve when- 1. The throttle is closed. 2. The coolant temp is below 168-ish Unless those 2 items are true, the valve is closed, meaning that PAIR doesn't effect A,B, or C. Now, since mine is already disabled, I see no reason to re-enable the system because of 'D'. That being said I would not disable just for the sake of 'D'. So.... The question that started this all, was that even thou I had removed all the hoses, the solenoid valve, and plugged the ports on top of the valve covers and air box, it did not prevent 'D' from happening because one of the reed valves under the port on the valve cover failed causing an exhaust leak in between cylinders. Does this leak cause a big problem? Did the valve seat 'melt' because the PAIR was disabled stopping any air flow ever? Is the only true way to prevent failure removing the reed valve and blocking the ports?