Member Contributer SinNH Posted October 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted October 1, 2012 I have done a few shim and bucket valve adjustment, tedious, but don't mind doing them if really need to. Reading about the infamous V-4, seem like the mill is so well put together from the factory, many engines are fine for quite a while. Just wondering about off season work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted October 1, 2012 your poll needs a "n/a" in the second question for those that said "no" on question 1..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SinNH Posted October 1, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 1, 2012 your poll needs a "n/a" in the second question for those that said "no" on question 1..... Yep thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SinNH Posted October 2, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 2, 2012 WOW 136 views and no votes, I thought this poll would draw a bit of interest. I am more retarded than I thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer hotshoerob Posted October 2, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted October 2, 2012 The parameters in your poll don't quite fit for me. I checked mine at 45k. No adjustment was required, they were all perfect. Will I check them again?... not likely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I would do them whenever you felt like it, but the 5th gen good for 100k w/o it. My 6th gen could use a check at 95K miles, but it would be easier to just slap in another engine. BR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 2, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted October 2, 2012 Just broke in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SinNH Posted October 2, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 2, 2012 This is what I wanted to hear. Over the last two decades or more, push rod opposed twins, valve adjust about 4k max or starting gets hard, even with " High cam w/short push rods" same interval, no big deal to adjust solids but got other stuff to do. Good news. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Maybe nobody in the forum would want to, in any way, put on record how they might have skipped over valve adjustment intervals on their VFRs,.....lest it takes away from the future resale value of their bikes......maybe?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MaxSwell Posted October 9, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted October 9, 2012 Mine were inspected at 18k, adjusted at 36k, and adjusted big-time at 88k. Big dif in engin smoothness after the later. Now have 105k. Runs like Dutchy's watch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted October 9, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted October 9, 2012 Checked my old 4th gen at roughly 22k and everything was in spec. On my current 5th gen, I'll probly do a check around 35 - 40k in a future over the winter season to do list. Got a ways to go to get there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dallasb Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Based on doing my friends 929 and my 6th gen VFR, you will be more than fine at 32K intervals, IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzed_viffer Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I've had my '01 coming up for 8 years, and never checked the valve clearances. It's now up to around 62k miles (mostly used for commuting, with only a handful of long weekend trips away). It's got some noises that might be valvetrain based, which are getting me close to having them checked by someone else. Once upon a time, I wouldn't pay for someone else to do work (apart from tyre changes), but there's a bike shop two doors up from my new job, and having my wife get tradespeople in to work on the house while I was recovering from surgery two years ago was a watershed moment for me. No - I didn't cry (at least not about that), but it made me feel OK about not doing everything myself. Just because I can do stuff, doesn't mean I have to now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted October 9, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted October 9, 2012 I had them checked in the mid thirties with no adjustments. Last check was mid to high 60's, I believe, and all of one side were out or on the tight end of acceptable. So I brought them back to the middle. Sorry, I can't recall at the moment if it was exhaust or intake. But it was all of whichever. I was able swap around most of them, and remaining shims I sanded to thin them into spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Maybe nobody in the forum would want to, in any way, put on record how they might have skipped over valve adjustment intervals on their VFRs,.....lest it takes away from the future resale value of their bikes......maybe?? Whats the resale difference between a 100,000 mile vfr , verses a 100,000 mile vfr with no valve check? I bet there's not much difference, the value is low, probably $2000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzed_viffer Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Well, I had the Motorcycle Doctor (yeah, that's his handle - he comes to wherever you want, with his vanb full of gear) in this week to service the VFR. I bought it in 2004 at 37k miles, it's now at around 61k, and in that time, apart from oil/filter changes, sparkplugs, etc. and one SV synch, it's had no servicing. He checked the valves, throttle bodies, changed all the fluids, checked the electrics, and a whole bunch of other stuff. Everything in spec, took him 4.5 hours without stopping, and cost me NZ$295 (that's like ... I dunno, US$23?) It made a HUGE difference, mostly because of changing the Mobil 1 for Motul 5100, which is what I usually run. Every time I try Mobil 1, I hate it! It makes the bikes rattly, and the gearchanges sh!tty. He said, "Don't use it! It's not specced for you bike, and it's not right for it. He's coming back next week ($85) to adjust the TPS to get rid of the leanness caused by running a BMC airfilter and Staintune highmount with a cutdown restrictor. (I've given up on the PCII). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 He going to adjust the trottle position sensor cause of leanous with BMc airfilter, and staytune highmount??? He's gonna really fk it up is he does that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AB-Oz Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Mine were checked at 36,000 km and again at 72,000km. All were in spec. My mech said we wont bother checking them until around 150,000km. I have 107,000km on it now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted November 8, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted November 8, 2012 I checked them on a VF500C once and they were all out and one broken tappet. Does that count? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RolandHTG Posted November 29, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted November 29, 2012 I did not vote as the format did not fit my history:20,000;35,000;46,000;70,000 miles. I changed 2 shims at 46,000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bassie Posted November 29, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted November 29, 2012 I have read a lot on the matter here on the forum. As mine has 50000kmeter on it there is no reason to check before 100000kmeter. So I will check mine between 100000~150000kmeter (between 70k~100kmile). My son, who is a moto-mechanic told me there is no need to check them often, as typical they are within spec over a long period of time. If you make sure your oil is the right one for the temps you ride in. He did check the ones from his bike SV650S (40kmile) and GSX750F (35Kmile) and none of them needed anything. He works in a bikers-shop, mostly they just listen to the engine if there are weird noises, if so they check them for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Maybe nobody in the forum would want to, in any way, put on record how they might have skipped over valve adjustment intervals on their VFRs,.....lest it takes away from the future resale value of their bikes......maybe?? How much you think my 02 w/100k miles is worth? Valve checks or not! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer texasvfr Posted November 30, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted November 30, 2012 Last week ebay had about ten VFR engines ( some with mileage as low as 8k) for between $275 and $800. Yikes throw a 8k mileage engine in for the cost of two valve checks. That is my take; however, I drive a Nissan Pathfinder that I have owned since 1995. Would have loved my v-twin hydralic(sic) valve PC-800 if it would have had twice the power. Got rid of it because of no wow factor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RolandHTG Posted November 30, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted November 30, 2012 I was gonna trade in my 99 when I bought my 07 Concours 14 but she sang so sweetly to me on the way to the dealership I decided to keep her and came up with the extra $3,000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted December 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted December 1, 2012 5th gen valve checks shouldn't run more than $300. I paid a little less than that to a Honda dealer at 48k, 2 shims were changed. I checked myself at 16k/32k, everything seemed in spec. It's got 83k on it now and I haven't checked since. But with second gear going, probably need to replace the clutch too, it will probably be cheaper/easier to swap in a newer motor. After checking the valves on the new motor of course! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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