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Everything posted by YoshiHNS

  1. I use normal Gates fuel line for runs that aren't super twisty. Bought a 25ft spool. Set for life. If I have any tricky bends like 180's, I use stainless pipe and a pipe bender. The clear plastic fuel line seems good in a pinch, but I don't feel it will hold up as well as true fuel line will. Motion Pro sells some very nice (but expensive) fuel line that can do tight bend radii.
  2. Any chance the CBR F3 petcock fits? It's $60, but it faces the wrong direction (i think).
  3. Great progress! That tank inside looks miles better than when you started.
  4. DO NOT USE KREEM!!!!!! That stuff is junk most of the time. Better option is the POR-15 kit. Otherwise, see my earlier post. Congrats on having it fire over. I've you've been in one carb you've been through them all. Just make sure all the passages and jets are clear and there isn't leftover residue on the needle and stuff. Don't forget to clean the choke assembly. Can always bench test to make sure there aren't any leaks. Just don't break the carbs out individually. Keep them together.
  5. Changing oil hot doesn't make much sense when you think about it (when not in a time crunch). What is the advantage of changing the oil when it's hot/warm? It will flow through the engine and drain faster right? Well guess what? That's what the oil is going to do whether you pull the drain plug or not. Changing cold just means you didn't sit there for 20 minutes waiting for the oil to flow into the oil pan.
  6. Russian hacking group is on a spree. Doing whatever damage they possibly can to celebrate the 4th of July.
  7. I've had good luck with CLR followed by an isopropyl rinse and hair dryer drying. Just leave it in for a few days and shake it every so often.
  8. Pretty sure there should be a spacer or a washer between there. Spacers are easy to make. Anyone with a lathe or even a mill could make you one.
  9. Where are these files? What do these things look like? If round spacers, why not aluminum? If not round spacers, why not aluminum? Otherwise either a Nylon or PETG.
  10. That seems like a lot of money for a stock VFR with paint, seat, and an exhaust. Over here a nice 4th gen is only $3k (USD), maybe $4k if really clean. A normal condition one more in the $2k+ range. Tyga exhaust is $1100. It does look pretty nice.
  11. Hole is there by design. Drain for water. There should be another hole closer to the swingarm pivot. Did the PO just spray paint the rear caliper? Everything being hard to come apart is pretty normal for a bike that hasn't had it done before. I had to use a hydraulic press to get my axle out.
  12. Keep it stock? I thought the idea was to fix and sell? I think you've fallen in love again... To be young again...
  13. I think you got me beat easy on most ruined VFR. Poor 3 & 5.
  14. Hi YoshiHNS, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  15. Tyga makes a nice looking full exhaust system. Maybe one day I'll get to see one...
  16. You can jump the ignition out at the harness connector if you want to save the effort of drilling it out. But you seem to be a long way from worrying about the key working. Good luck. I'd be real curious how much of that dirt got it's way into the engine. Did you check the oil? Is that dirty with dirt too?
  17. Those mirrors look nicer than the stock condom mirrors. Must have missed what they are in the thread.
  18. That fork fluid looks like it would have left some solid behind. Yummy.
  19. Is it worth replacing the tires rather than have the new owner decide what rubber they want to run?
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