mkrouse

Well, I had to 'probably' sacrifice the new oil seal. TubeTube had a guy with a tip. He measured a large dowel that when dropped into the fork lower, stood just proud of the upper lip of the stuck seal. Using a very small pry bar that used the top of the dowel for leverage, I was able to move the seal upward. Some minor damage to the 'outer' seal surface. Rather damage the seal than the fork stanchion. I'll buy another seal for the second fork.

Help. I've done a very bad thing. I had a bit of a walk-about while putting my fork back together. Forgot to install the new upper bearing before I used the seal driver to seat the seal. Is there anyway to to remove the new seal and start again?

Wow. Great diagram. My rebuild kits were from All Balls Racing. Always better to ask the experts. Thanks again. I'm waiting for a 41mm driver from Motion Pro. Started out thinking I could fashion something out of PVC. Done the cobble route too many times.

Spring side UP. Thanks.

Which side of the new fork oil seal faces down during installation? Does it matter?

Just an update. After cleaning and a 15 mile raid one month ago, bike sat for a month and I noticed brake fluid leaking again. This time I checked the rear reservoir and it was bone dry. Front reservoir is full. The owner responded, probably in jest, "I don't use the rear brake much". But Bob...

1999 VFR800FI I've garaged this original CA bike for about 5 years, for friend in NC. He last visited in September 2021 when we rode 2,500 miles from AZ to Wyoming, returning through Utah. I start it ocassionally, infrequently ride it 10 miles, then park it for a couple of months. Mid May 2022 I noticed a spot on the floor, under the RIGHT fork assembly. Fork seal or brake fluid? Caliper soaked. Pads not bad. Dropped the caliper, removed the pads, cleaned with brake cleaner. Cleaned the exterior of the fork tube. Reassembled and left the front brake engaged over night with velcro strips. Next day it appeared everything dry. Went for a 15 mile ride with heavy sustained braking. Parked it and it appeared dry. Today I noticed a familiar spot. No riding since previous test ride. Static leak. See photo. I'd appreciate a diagnosis. Fork tube dry. Any help appreciated.

Cleaning of the lever switch seems to have done the trick. I took the switch off and unplugged the leads. Electrical Cleaner and compressed air. Reassembled. Now...one click squeezing the lever. One click releasing the lever. Doesn't repeat. Thanks all.

Yes, exactly. As the clutch is eased out slowly. Stops when all the way out or in. I think I'll clean the electrical contact as suggested. Then maybe a new switch. Then digging deeper to the solenoid, where that is located. I started an implant procedure today. Extraction. Bone graft. Now 4 months healing, then the implant. $7000. The switch will surely be less... Thanks for all the advice. I'll let you know what happens.

Thanks. Here's a sound bite I recorded. Clicking starts at about 6 seconds after some fumbling.2019_04_23_12_04_31.mp3

I have a 1999 VFR800FI with over 69,000 miles. Runs well. I noticed a sound today while riding in my neighborhood, warming the oil for change. No helmet. No earplugs. Crawling speed. The sound is like a crackling electrical connection. Occurs only with power switch on, bike in gear, clutch lever released just prior to engagement. Engine does not have to be running, ignition must be on. So, what's about to explode?

Nylon wheel. I finally used a snap ring pliers. Worked my way around and it came off. New one was no treat to attach as it didn't slide on easily. Today I'm replacing a shower pipe with vice grips. My life is exciting, no?

I don't have access to both ends of the stator wire. I good idea which I will ponder. When the wires were originally soldered, they were stripped back and did seem flexible and copper colored. The thicker wire to the FAH012 did not take solder well. Maybe they did not get hot enough. This picture shows the butt connector I used after the solder joints were cut out. I added the black heat shrink for extra protection. You can see that the wire to wire soldering could have been much better. I wonder if I should have taken more care to expose more stator wire prior to using the connector. I could do it again, but I'm running out of stator wire, thus access for crimping and heating. How hard is it to access the stator internal end connectors? Maybe I should attempt to totally replace the stator wires?

Well, my fix of the crispy connectors didn't last but about 75 miles. New connectors melted, My LED voltmeter light signaled a problem. When my friend arrived for our Utah trip, he removed the connectors and soldered the three yellow wires together. Twisted the wires individually, then soldered. The solder didn't flow nicely, but held for the 1500 mile trip. He went back to NC and while he cruised to Cuba, I cut off the solder balls [can't believe they lasted 1500 miles] and rejoined the wires with NSPA butt connectors. They are expensive, crimped, heat shrinkable, with solder integrated at the wire stop. And they are designed to accept the slightly smaller wire size from the stator, and the larger wire size to the FHA012. Seem perfect. I practiced until I had the best technique. They seemed to be working. LED green. Strong connection. BUT the wires are hot. I'm hoping the heat is being generated from the close proximity of the downward exhaust pipe, not by electrical resistance? The wires are too hot to touch. How hot is too hot? I have a unit that measures temperature. Like a laser pointer. The cylinder head was is 188 F. The pipe is about 188 F. The wires toward the front are 150 F. The wires toward the back [FHA012] are 110 F. Trouble ahead? Yesterday I used about 8 inches of split pipe insulation [polyurethane], wrapped around the exposed wire section. Still awfully hot. Advice?

I've purchased a OEM replacement sensor. Applied some gentle prying force to remove the old, worn sensor. Not budging. How much pressure does it take to slide that thing off the shaft?