Av8r

I bought one of these from an eBay breaker, mine came from an accident damaged 2020 500 and cost me £30. I’d only ever use genuine Shindengen F022AA, be wary of fake ones, and it doesn’t have to be for a VFR, the seller I bought from had four listed. The one I got was the cheapest, others were listed as off a CBR900 for £65, a R1 for £85 and a CBR600 for £50. All exactly the same part! Had to also order connector blocks but they were easy to find as a kit on Amazon. There’s a detailed how to available if you search for it which is what I used when I did mine. 30 year old original Honda one was outputting 15.8 - 16v, “new” one a rock steady 14.4v at any revs. Theres one on eBay now from seller Topzan-09 for £27.47 (won’t let me post a link)

Brilliant. Thank very much.

That would be great especially if you could confirm the thread pitch. Thank you.

Thanks for the info.

Hi. Does anyone know what the thread size is of the cartridge rod that the fork cap screws onto? I want to make up a tool to make it easier to do a fork service rather than buy one. Thanks.

Thanks, I’ll add oil to YSS’s recommended level.

Going to replace the original fork springs on my ‘92 3rd gen with .9 n/mm YSS ones as recommended by various calculators on the web. I refurbished the forks last year with all new seals and oil etc so looking to simply to replace the springs without taking the forks off the bike, current oil level/air gap is 178mm as per the service manual but I’ve noticed that YSS list a level/air gap as 160mm. Original spring length according to the manual is 427.1mm and the YSS ones are 438mm. So, should I install and leave level/gap as is (extra spring length will displace oil to lessen the gap?) or add oil?

Thanks, I’ll try to get/lash up something similar.

Just wondering if there’s a reason why I shouldn’t use either longer screws, with longer anti-vibration springs or epoxy/glue/weld extensions onto the three carb balance adjustment screws to make it easier to adjust them, would they foul anything? I’ve got the correct 90° screwdriver but still find it hard to get it located and stay there while trying not to burn my hands. (Pic from internet)

Yes bolts are exactly the same.

Looking at the posting date I’m probably too late with this reply but do not use copper “grease” to lubricate anything use bearing grease, moly grease, lithium grease, silicon grease. Copper “grease” is useful to stop things sticking/corroding together like the rear wheel and hub but it’s not a lubricant and if used as such like on brake calliper slider pins it’ll dry up and actually inhibit movement.

Yes tapered bearings. As Jefferson has said though it looks like the stops are positioned differently they are in fact in exactly the same place relative to the stem and the same height, they are less “meaty” like the rest of the clamp but contact the frame in the same place as the original too. The whole thing looks like it’s been on a diet, the casting is thinner as well as narrower. Here’s another picture. ‘93 left ‘95 right.

Ha, so do I. It was only as was fitting the second fork leg that I thought I should’ve. Can only say it was noticeably lighter rather than imperceptibly.

Ok, ‘95 stem arrived this morning. All important dimensions are the same including the position and height of the lock stops, differences are the position of the bolts for the forks; they’re straight rather than angled and the lower clamp is not as “chunky” especially around the stem itself. Brake hose guide and horn mountings are in exactly the same plane, the boss they bolt to sits proud of the clamp rather than being tapped into it. Didn’t think to weigh it but feels lighter in the hand. ‘93 top, ‘95 bottom.

Thanks, will be able to say for definite in a few days as I’ve a ‘95 one coming in the post to hopefully replace a bent one on a ‘92 (see post in Suspension titled “is this fork bent?” … it is and so is the lower clamp). Straight ‘90-‘93 stems not readily available but very many ‘94-‘98 are so have had to take a punt on one of those. Can probably easily get round hose mounting points but am now worried about the frame stops being too low….