Valve check interval

[auggius]

I know that angled gauges are preferred I used flat feeler gauges because that's all I ever found with the range that I needed at local stores. Assuming that I at least measured in a consistent way, I have a history of my clearances at 25, 50, 75, 100 & 166K km. All valves got tighter. Now question, why did some valve clearances get tighter after I changed some shims?

[BCmcrider]

I know that angled gauges are preferred I used flat feeler gauges because that's all I ever found with the range that I needed at local stores. Assuming that I at least measured in a consistent way, I have a history of my clearances at 25, 50, 75, 100 & 166K km. All valves got tighter. Now question, why did some valve clearances get tighter after I changed some shims?

Did you mic the shims you took out as well as the ones you put in to verify the thickness matched the marking?

I had no choice as I think only one of the shims I took out had any readable markings left on it. When I did the shim exchange, I took my same electronic caliper with me so that I could verify the shims I received were in fact as marked, I did notice some variation but one has to wonder if it's a small spec of dust in the caliper jaw, regardless of how clean you try to be.

Regarding feelers, I put two bends in the feelers, resulting in an almost 90 degree total bend. One bend was near the tip, about an inch back, and the other was about mid guage or about 2" back from the measuring tip. The other thing I did was measure each of the outboard valves from the top/center of the Vee, as there is clear access. Once I determined that clearance, I measured the same valve from the bottom to be sure I was able to get the same reading from there, and to get an idea of what kind of pressure and angle I needed on the feeler. Only at that point would I measure the inboard valve, where there was no access from the top, as I had a good idea of the angle and pressure and feel to expect. There is not a lot of room to spare and I found that I needed to have the bundle of guages in my hand with the active feeler at a 90 degree angle via the hinge, so that I wasn't hitting the rear shock.

[auggius]

I don't have a micrometer so did not measure any shims. I figured that because the shims only come in 0.001" increments (0.025mm actually but close enough) it wouldn't make a difference UNLESS the shim as marked is out 0.001" or more. For example, if the clearance was 0.001" tight, I needed a shim that was 0.002" thinner to put it at the middle of spec. So whatever the shim was marked, I bought a shim two sizes down. The manual has an equation to determine the correct shim size but I think it's needless. There just isn't the granularity in the shim selection to warrant it.

Did you have to buy a different shim size based on its actual thickness vs its marked size?

As for my measuring technique I tried my best to slide the gauge in as flat as possible. It wasn't always possible due to the lack of room but once the feeler gauge was in place you can tell if it's a loose fit or tight fit. And besides using feeler gauges it's really an approximation since it uses the go/no-go algorithm.

And years ago I did try to bend the gauge but it snapped. Any angled gauge sets I found did not have the sizes I needed. Keep in mind my search was limited to Canadian Tire and Lordco.

[BCmcrider]

I don't have a micrometer so did not measure any shims. I figured that because the shims only come in 0.001" increments (0.025mm actually but close enough) it wouldn't make a difference UNLESS the shim as marked is out 0.001" or more. For example, if the clearance was 0.001" tight, I needed a shim that was 0.002" thinner to put it at the middle of spec. So whatever the shim was marked, I bought a shim two sizes down. The manual has an equation to determine the correct shim size but I think it's needless. There just isn't the granularity in the shim selection to warrant it.

Did you have to buy a different shim size based on its actual thickness vs its marked size?

As for my measuring technique I tried my best to slide the gauge in as flat as possible. It wasn't always possible due to the lack of room but once the feeler gauge was in place you can tell if it's a loose fit or tight fit. And besides using feeler gauges it's really an approximation since it uses the go/no-go algorithm.

And years ago I did try to bend the gauge but it snapped. Any angled gauge sets I found did not have the sizes I needed. Keep in mind my search was limited to Canadian Tire and Lordco.

The reason I brought my caliper when I bought shims is to double check that :

1) The shim I'm buying is the size it says it is.

2) The caliper I'm using is giving the correct measurement, as I used it to measure my old shims due to markings worn off.

I was concerned that if the caliper was off, for instance if I measured a shim at 1.65 but it was in fact 1.60, all of the shims I bought would be the wrong size. I measured all the shims I bought but realize that after verifying the reading on a couple, it's unlikely that I needed to measure them all. Just didn't want to have to make another trip.

Pic of the cams and retainers removed during shim exchange.

Rear head with cams removed.

Removing a bucket with a magnet.

Shim stuck to inside of bucket via magnet.

More pics in the album

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/gallery/album/7319-cam-shims-and-thermostat-hose-replace/

[vfrcapn]

Also, when I bought my shims recently from the Honda dealer, they had a mix of new and used. All were still marked but I made the parts guy march out to service to get a micrometer so I could verify the sizes.

[Cogswell]

Looks like you're doing a really nice job. Well done.

[BusyLittleShop]

I checked Mr.RC45 valves at 70445km 43772 miles... I pulled and recorded all the shims for the next check at 100K miles... even thought I don't ride in

moderation all clearances were in spec... thank you 0-30 Mobil 1...

…

#1
In. (6) .070 1.75mm (6) .071 1.80mm

Ex. (11) .072 1.80mm (11) .070 1.75mm

#2
Ex (11) 0.69 1.72mm (11) .0 70 1.75mm

In. (6) .073 1.84mm (6) .073 1.85mm

#3
In. (5) .072 1.82mm (6) .071 1.80mm

Ex (11) .071 1.80mm (11) .072 1.82mm

#4
Ex. (11) .070 1.75mm (11) .070 1.75mm

In. (6) .067 1.70mm (6) .067 1.70mm

[auggius]

Also, when I bought my shims recently from the Honda dealer, they had a mix of new and used. All were still marked but I made the parts guy march out to service to get a micrometer so I could verify the sizes.

And were there any that were marked wrong?

[vfrcapn]

Also, when I bought my shims recently from the Honda dealer, they had a mix of new and used. All were still marked but I made the parts guy march out to service to get a micrometer so I could verify the sizes.

And were there any that were marked wrong?

Not that I recall. If there was one slightly off I threw it back in their bin and grabbed another, catch and release.

[yycviffer]

Having just adjusted a few clearances at just under 80,000 Km, I want to encourage you guys TO check them. I checked them at 45ish thousand Km and one was only slightly out of spec so I left all well enough alone. This time I had two intake valves on Cyl #3 sitting at 0.003", which is obviously a little tight. I have heard people say that they checked them and were good so never again, but I think it is even more important to check them as the Km's on the bike start to creep up. Is it a bit of a pain?.......yes. Is it more of a pain to pull cams and reshim?.........Deffinitely. Valves and valve seats do wear.

[Baileyrock]

With 105k miles on my 02 I'm thinking it's about time for it's first valve check. Maybe just a few thousand more rides!