Beck

Tried parking my Honda Hawk GT650 in my studio apartment living room back in the 90's and was sorry I did so when I woke up the next few nights with a pounding headache....because of the gasoline fumes that came out of the gas tank vent (I bought the bike in WI, so no evap can) and filled the apartment. Cool having the bike where I could see it and fiddle with it so easy, but just not the healthiest/safest thing to do....

A few heads should roll at Honda because of this problem with the drives haft on what was one of Honda ' s flagship bikes....... You'd think they would have gotten it right after producing so many shaft driven bikes for so many decades already. A very painful recall as Honda also had to convince VFR fans that shaft drive was the way to go with the 7th gen..... A few heads should roll at Honda because of this problem with the driveshaft on what was one of Honda ' s flagship bikes....... You'd think they would have gotten it right after producing so many shaft driven bikes for so many decades already. A very painful recall as Honda also had to convince VFR fans that shaft drive was the way to go with the 7th gen.....

Doubt if Honda will share their faring CAD files for your bike but the thing is, it is much easier these days "build" a 3D CAD wire frame model of the fairings using present 3D scanning devices, so if you know an Engineer/designer that might have access to such equipment, you might be able to get CAD files for the fairings done for your budy to use.

LED vehcle lighting technology is moving in leaps and bounds and many new designs had come up since this thread was started. Have you guys noticed the new LED "light tube" lens designs that car makers are now using for their DRL's and tail lights. Pretty good stuff with in most cases, just one or a couple of LED bulbs providing all the needed light that is usually even more intense/brighter then the older, multi LED designs. More efficient, less cost to replace and much better lighting performance than multiple LED designs. Definitely the way LED lighting evolution is going.... Hope to see such in many motorcycles soon..

That looks fantastic! The wheel looks great but that that new cush drive assembly looks so exotic! I wish I had the skills and resources to do such mods...... It looks like a lot of work, but the product is worth it!

I thought I saw a pic of a metal version (That will not wear out?) of that sensor driver thingy posted here recently.....

Nice muffled support you made there! I wish I had the talent an tools to do the same. My solution on my bike is to just "shave" a right passenger peg bracket I bought off eBay: It was the quick, more affordable approach for me and I guess it worked out OK so far....

True but the mechanical issue that causes excessive aeration is not a 100k spinning ball bearing... the problem relates to crankshaft speed at the rate of higher and higher RPMs... Isn't it that's why a lot of race engines are dry sumped??

I'm not surprised that some people might mistake the flat or satin black painted diecast and welded together hydro-formed, frame elements on bikes today as plastic panels covering a more "conventional" frame under it, as many riders had gotten so used to seeing either clear anodized or silver painted frames on bikes for so many years. I always preferred the clear anodized brushed aluminum frames on bikes anyway. Maybe the whole black painted frame thing might be a fad that will eventually go away in a few years??

BLS where are you??

I would think, at least with the carburated VFRs, without some sort of fuel metering compensation system to deal with the increase in air pressure/volume, would you be in danger of getting too lean a fuel mixture at higher speeds which could mean burned valves and such?? IIRC, the ram air on the carburated CBR 600's had some sort of balance tubes coming from near the ram air openings at the front of the bike and connected to the float bowls in some way to do this..... Which kinda makes doing ram air on 4th and earlier VFRs a not so simple thing to do, I think....

That's weird of them not to bother lining up that pad leading edge to the tank front edge. If that's the right part for your VFR, then it might be just their using a "Gudenof" design approach to their products.....

Sure one can try it, but it's not an easy plug and play with just bigger diameter rotors. It will always come with a change in fork caliper hanger configuration to pull them out further from the axle centers.....which usually means people would just change out the whole front suspension and brakes to one from another bike that has the bigger diameter discs.....= lots of money and work to do so....

I'm thinking that the big spirals rolled on to those case bolts in your pics, have some sort of effect on how the bolt stretches when torqued to spec??

Don't these 3D printers have some sort of limit in terms of printing scale/area/field. Wouldn't bigger sized objects need a format as big as a "plotter" where the printing feild and scale would be bigger....so it's not like one can already print things like fairing panels these days, unless you have access to a very expensive commercial version of the 3D printer, which I suspect is only affordable to big companies with big R&D departments presently...... I suspect that the printing materials/media most cost a lot of money too, and you cannot just run to your local Office Depot to get "refills".... I think we are still a ways from having 3D printing really accessible to the regular Joe who wants to do their own 3D prototyping for their latest bike project.....

We've certainly seen worse, but the Dipster's VFR is certainly quite horrendous...... I wonder hat the heck does one do if one runs into him on the road and starts tailing you to show VFR "brotherhood"??

That's a lot of work, plus cutting and shutting a gas tank requires a lot of skill if one expects the mod to result in a leak free gas tank in the end. The welds would need to be flawless!

I bet some of the best mechanics are the ones not specially "trained" by the big car and motorcycles companies. I bet these guys in the farther corners of the world, working in "less than ideal" conditions, will never let a Honda "special tool" requirement from getting the job done!

I've watched my younger brother literally bathe a lot of his "toys" in WD40 for many years without consequences. I was also nervous about doing so, especially the paint on his bicycles and motorcycles, but I continue to be proven wrong by him every year as I never saw it harm any of his or my stuff, electrical, paint or mechanical. You want something that really harms finishes, it would be S100 bike wash spray fluid. That stuff attacks clear anodizing like nothing else. If you just leave it for just a little while on an anodized part, it will turn it blotchy and milky white before you can rinse it off. and the damage would be permanent. I remember doing that to parts of my Honda Hawk's frame some years ago and after that, I swore never to use S100 again. Sure it cleans the bikes really well, but they never really tell us about how it can affect anodized aluminum parts.

You sure you're not thinking about Armor All??? Never had a problem with WD 40 for the many years I've been using it on many things electrical and mechanical.......

Dry it out as much as you can ASAP to keep corrosion at bay. A shop vac with the hose on the exhaust outlet is good enough to blow of most of the water from the nooks and crannies. But you can also buy one of those bike blower dryers for a more powerful air stream. WD40 is good to displaced water/moisture in the harder to reach areas....

Think of it as something like the splines on the front end of a BMW's drive shaft. If you regularly clean and lubricate that aluminum drive socket to minimize wear between it and the drive nut, it should last for a very long time......

Renthals look and feel like they could be nice grips.....if only they made their "medium" compound in black, or other colors and not just grey (that I guess, will only match the grey saddles on 3rd gen VFRs)..... That's the only reason I have not bought them yet for my VFR and stayed with Pro Grip gels in the diamond "file" pattern.

PAIR was always explained as a secondary system to introduce oxygen downstream of the exhaust valve to continue combustion of any unburnt gasses (mostly caused by on-choke rich mixture state) in the exhaust manifold. It is that simple and not some big mysterious "fraud" propagated by Honda to "fool the sniffers" and force us to carry that extra couple of pounds of equipment on our bikes....otherwise, believe me, many Honda owners over here would have sued Honda years ago for "fraud"..... .. And the so called "sniffers" can't be easily fooled anyway.......

The rear side extractors on the 4th Gen were designed to soppsedly pull out the heated air from around the rear cylinder/ upper manifold area that's buried under the rear of the tank. Although Honda did a good job with the rubber and plastoc air barriers and baffles routing the heated air towards the rear extractors, they did not seal sound the extractor openings and the rear frndet pan and subframe, thus some of that heated air gets trapped in the tail section, heating up the seat and other goodies in there..... .....like the RR...... I put some foam around the right side extractor openings under my tail fairing to seal it up a bit, and according to the temp sensor I have near the RR, it lowered the temps in there. I suspect that there's still some hot air that leaks over the battery (Especially if the big rubber flap on top of the battery is removed or missing) and under the seat and that's what might still be getting the seat hot on this SF naked bike..... Beck 95 VFR