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Hi Worfje, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I’m hoping this. It’s taking a charge now but time will tell and once I check charging while running with the R/R disconnected. If it’s a bad battery I’ll swap it out. I deal a lot with Interstate so figured I give it a shot, an AGM dry version adding the solution before installing letting it set and then on the Tender for a couple weeks or so waiting for time to ride.

Hi Bronco, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

A 5/8" master would bring the master/slave area ratio right back to stock. The 6th gen stock operates 5 pistons up front (unlike the 5th gen which does 4).

2002-2005 VFR800 Engine Management Schematic - ECU pins and coloring corrected View File This is a correction to the diagram released by Honda in 2002. It now has accurate pin numbering and wire colours according to the European 2002-2005 wire setup. This routing is tested and works with both the 38770-MCW-D02 and 38770-MCW-D03 ECUS. American or other ECUs are similar but without HISS and slightly different wire colouring (two black and yellow wires in connector B, for example). Black connector: A Grey connector: B Submitter Sobu Submitted 05/15/2025 Category Owners Manuals and other  

That sounds like a broken battery, not just flat. Maybe an internal break. Even a "flat" battery should show some voltage.

My 99 runs at a right around 180F on the freeway which is the thermostat opening point, which tells me there is excess radiator cooling capacity at that point. I would be rechecking your thermostat as it sounds like it may be jammed. My easy thermostat test (no disassembly needed!) is to start the cold engine and let it warm at a standstill and keep a hand on the radiator. If the thermostat is working the radiator stays cold until you reach 176-odd which is when it should start to open and dump hot coolant out to the radiator, which you feel as a sudden jump in temperature. If the radiator slowly heats up from when you start the bike, the thermostat is jammed open. If the radiator doesn't get hot around 176 then it may be jammed closed.

As you can see from my Avatar image, I also have a 5th gen and have to say it appears to pull just as hard right through the rev range with it's boring 16v system. VTEC does seem like a bit of a gimmick but I quite like the character that it gives the 6th gen. I am old enough to have ridden 2-strokes in the 80's and it is (a little) reminiscent of that...My inner conspiracy theorist thinks VTEC was introduced to distract from the switch to chain drive for the cams, which I am sure was solely for noise/cost reasons.

It’s so flat it didn’t show anything on my Fluke, 0.0vdc…….

Sorry to hear! Maybe check your fuses as well, if not already part of 'the drill'.

Interested in what you find out.... Before you put the battery on charge... what voltage does it read?

I have to say it’s been pretty much a trouble free 5 years. But today, the first ride of the season we made it 22 miles before rolling to a stop on the side of the road. I put a new battery (always on a Tender) in it a couple weeks ago when I changed the oil getting things ready for the season. Five years ago I upgraded the RR with an FA020AA (kit) from Jacks and life has been pretty good considering the age of the bike. So later I’ll unload it from the trailer, charge the battery, run “the drill” and see if the stator gave up or if the RR had enough. The RR was HOT when I put my finger on it lol, yup I did that………

Make sure the holes on the backing plates are centered with brake pads holes also. As far off centered as they looked, that was the problem IMO.

If it were my bike, I would put the backing plates back on with a smear of copper grease both sides and see what happens. The backing plates are there for anti-squeal as well as heat dissipation. I have some doubts that your Honda guys will know any better if you've already checked everything over; could be money wasted.

Hi, I have a 5th gen vfr800 that after a coolant change was overheating in standstill. this lead to me going through the coolant system, I replaced the thermostat with OEM, I pressure tested the system and fixed any leaks and it holds at 16psi. I replaced the radiator cap because it wasn’t holding pressure with a stant 10223 as recommended by someone on a forum. I am sure the water pump works as if the bikes hot and sitting off, when I turn the bike on (pump starts moving) the temp drops as if it’s getting recirculated. The fan turns on at exactly 219F so I am sure it’s not a fan issue either. When the bike reads hot it feels hot so I don’t think it’s a poor temp sensor either. At this point I have no ideas, the bike runs fine gets to topspeed no issue but it runs hot. By hot I mean 206-209F on highway in 6th gear cruising at 80. I rarely see less than 200 now which was not an issue before my very initial coolant change. I am using standard green coolant. Please help I have no idea what to check now.

Good progress! They do make silicone that isn't bright orange. 😉 Yes, hammer and chisel for the round cover works great.

Hi again, just been out to check to see what size master cylinder in on the bike and its a 14mm where as the CBR600F4i is a 5/8", so do I need a 5/8" or a bigger bore master cylinder, say like an 11/16" or a 7/8? My GPZ900R has dual 4 pot calipers and the master cylinder is a 5/8" and the lever is great on that. Cheers.

Today I did adjust the rear brake pedal of the Transalp as it was adjusted way to low for me, then early afternoon a spin on local twisty road's And I just have to stop in a special cafe, this time for a ice cream

Cheers for your reply. I never even thought about the master cylinder being down on pumping pressure with the added pistons, but now that you have mentioned it then it does make a lot of sense 👍. I'll be looking for a replacement master cylinder and giving it a go. Once again cheers for the info.

When you say delinked, you mean the fronts are now 3 pots on front lever ? Has the MC been updated ? If Vtec is same as 5th gen then the MC is too small when you have 6 pistons to move. The calculations are simple area of combined pistons/area of MC=X where X should be around 15. Assuming 4x 1" pistons on the Vtec originally & a 1/2" MC gives 16/1 ratio. If you add in 2 more 1" pistons it drops to 24/1 ratio, which means lots more lever travel before high pressure is built. The flex you are seeing is a red herring, they all do that before high pressure is built. You can't use VTR sliders on a 6th gen, they are 41mm bore & the 6th gen forks are 43mm. You could use CBR600F4 sliders and full brake system.

In Spain, a member in the vfr forum they've done it before, and the conclusion was that at low RPM it didn't work very well, but overall the performance was very good, although ECU adjustment would be necessary. This person simply activated the spool valve using a circuit they designed themselve. If anyone's interested, I can share the information about.

Good job!! Ho del metallo che devo forare per realizzare i tappi sul fondo del serbatoio. Purtroppo ho poco tempo e il lavoro procede a rilento. A proposito di filtri, il filtro originale in dotazione con la pompa costa una fortuna, avete alternative? Dopo il trattamento, è facile che rimangano residui anche pulendo tutto a fondo, quindi stavo pensando di cambiarlo dopo un po', ma devo trovare un'alternativa più economica. Ma cosa ha di così speciale il filtro originale che costa così tanto?

Some work on the RC24's this morning, after adjusting the brake pedal on the Transalp first. I have been letting my thoughts of my 2 RC24's grow slowly, the issues are the Devil exhaust that doesn't allow to raise the tail as the north American version that I had thoughts to keep quiet orginal that has a 5mm longer shock... So as good orginal exhaust is not easy awable for descent money I also has had a thought of selling the red one, but don't know.... Anyway one thing I made my mind up on, and it's that after all I will not change the oil pump chain now, reason is even it has some play everywhere I read about oil pump chains they have some slack so don't think this has to much. So decided to put clutch back as cover. Before starting whit that I did take the center stand hold tube out and put it in right way as mount the spring tab I had bought I sure would like to get a correct spring also but not available... As you take off old gasket you have to be creative to not let bits that come off go into engine Then mount the clutch as starter clutch. I also noticed that a former owner has taken the clutch cover off not so pro like, actually damageing the engine block a bit.... The bit was in the rubber, so even I don't prefer using gasket glue, I now had to at this spot, it's mainly to not let water as dust in to start corrosion thro, the surface towards engine internals is good So cover is on, noticed the oil level stick O ring was missing so added a new one And I do have one thing to sort, but wand to get a new one first... The round small cover in clutch cover has the hex rounded so slips, so need to get it off someway, on the red there was same issue but it I got off by heating the clutch cover and hammer whit a screwdriver on outer edge. After this the silencers will be mounted back whit theses that got in the mail during the week So project goes on

Having just had my VTEC bits apart the underside of the bucket is formed into shim shape as part of the casting so the net effect must be quite similar to the CB400, just with one less part. Maybe they were concerned about the shim becoming dislodged? The VTEC spring does hold the VTEC sliding pin hard up into the bucket so I'm not sure how it could ever come out but someone at Honda must have been concerned. The CB400 design would certainly make a shim change a cheap proposition as the VTEC buckets are US$27 each and I needed 6...