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Waiting now for master cylinder repair kit slave cylinder is ok so I think is clutch hose problem or clutch master cylinder that block piston to go back to previous position but I got no clue from where is that noise on the video

I could not play the video. However, you say at the start that the slave cylinder does not retract. Has that been fixed? It's not clear whether you have solved the problem of the clutch slipping

Hi everyone need a little help so week ago my clutch start sleeping on 27k mileage cause of that is the piston in slave cylinder doesn't go back and that's why clutch plates was burned anyway after replaced everything and start engine all was fine after couple of times put first gear on and than after try put 1st gear on engine turn off like there was no clutch so start engine again and was weird noise from clutch you can see on video and after knock on clutch basket the noise is gone never seen something like that before very weird so I think pressure build up on piston and something make that weird noise or something All parts looks good no loose anywhere bearings looks good too Anyone had something similar ? 20260228_123711.mp4

That's a pin hole in the tank alright, best to pop it before it gets bigger and lifts more paint For a temporary fix I've used this from Permatex https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-and-sealants/specialty-adhesives-removers/permatex-fuel-tank-epoxy-putty-1-oz/

What does the inside of the tank look like? Rusty? That looks suspiciously like a pin hole leak under the paint

Not sure if it was there when I first got the bike but I don't think it was, noticed it a few weeks after I got it. It's soft and squishy like there's some liquid (gas?) inside and it's growing slowly as it used to be above the Honda sticker and now it's bulging under it too Any answers as to what it is and how to fix it are appreciated I'll be repainting the whole bike at some point so a "dirty" fix that ruins the paint but leaves it safe from further damage (rain or the bubble coming back) is fine

Double check you have the throttle bodies seated fully. The clamp bands should be hard against the underside of the TBs.

Let us know if it is available from Italy. I got the same reply from RB USA, should have bought one when they were still available.

Not much to go on here

Its de paired ...just seems like the top part of the airbox will not seat properly

The drill bit arrived and it appears to be a simple reverse drill bit. Doesn't look like the one I've used before but that was a spark plug that broke off in the motor. Is this what I need to drill those out? Want to make certain before I truly screw this up.

be a simple drill bit, just reversed. Is this what I need to drill the bolt out?

Pics would help. I have de-PAIRed, and de-flappered my airboxes to avoid these issues.

I found that wheel vise essentially useless to the point where I didn't even bother to mount it. I did mount the front stopper bracket. Being in earthquake country I always strap the foot pegs with tie down straps in case things get shakey. Would hate for a bike to topple over while on the lift. I had it happen once in my old garage due to the rear stand. Fortunately it was so tight in there it just fell against the work bench, and I was able to push it back up with no damage. I widened the base of the stand after that incident.

Just changed out the thermostat(hope i never have to do it again). Now I cannot get the top part of the airbox back on. It seems as though everything shifted to the left and as far as I can tell thats not really possible. Any suggestions on how to go about this ? Thanks Kevin

For your information: according to RapidBike USA the Evo 2 and Racing 2 are not available and are not planned to become available for VFR800 5th gen due to no demand (quote: your bike is a dinosaur, without intending to insult you). I ordered a Racing kit from Italy and I hope their stock status will proof to be valid... 😁

@8200rpm what an excellent post, this really helped my understanding of the braking system which I now know I was not clear on! @jfheath If you are so inclined, that guide would be gratefully received. That diagram is really useful, thank you.

100% agree, looking for used pump is pointless because they are really expensive and worn out long time ago. that sounds very interesting. I hope its gonna work well.

i'm in a similar situation (my pump was peeing out the weep hole which means the shaft seals are toast)--in my research i have not heard great things about those repair kits. and yeah, other options are not great: new gen5 pumps are basically impossible to find, a gen6 water pump allegedly bolts right up but they're not cheap. a rebuilt pump may be an option if you can find one. the route i chose to go was actually an electric pump, for which i will hopefully have results to share very soon.

Im back after some break with updates in cooling system. After 5 months break i drained the coolant and it looks bad There is only one option for this bike. Disassemble and inspect the entire cooling system. yee to be expected, scale and oxidation on aluminium parts. Left radiator out and the right one Pump going out as well no wonder the cooling system is dirty I did my best to clean this pump but according to the internet, impellar its made out of steel and galvanized. After almost 30 years this coat is gone so i need to find repair kit or just try to pull impellar out and sand blast it and paint but it would be really hard to pull out impellar without damaging it, Its press fit on shaft. Radiators all clean, both were packed full of dirt and scale. Anyone have any experiance wit this aliexpress repair kits? I have no other option for this moment :/

I might look at the PAIR delete next time I have the tank off. I ended up taking the rear caliper off altogether as I couldn't get the pistons to push back. Realistically, it needs a rebuild kit and new pistons as they are corroded, but for the sake of a test ride, I've cleaned it up and put it back on the bike. Now I just need an hour where the weather plays ball so I can bleed the brakes and bring it for a test ride to see where I'm at with the original problem!

The lift table is tested, sure works, even it's quality is a bit disappointing, some improvements needed. So now as you look from a different angle, yes the wheel is not center as chain line way off whit the Zephyr 750 rear wheel. Fortune one I know has a Zephyr 550 whit orginal rear wheel so did visit him to get some measurements to find out what needs to be done. Turn's out the the 750 wheel has 10mm wider spacing between rear sprocket as brake disc compared to the 550, and it's actually even 5mm a side from rim center. So I need to get the rear brake caliper bracket slimmed down 5mm to get the rear wheel in center (measuring distance between rear shocks as rim tell same difference) and the rear sprocket holder also grinded off 5mm to move the rear sprocket into line whit the front! The chain line is now 10mm off! That's a lot! Then I need to calculate the spacer for sprocket side still.

I didn’t do much in the garage today, this is a great thread to carry me the evening.

You're welcome... Check this out... fun with engine noises... [youtube]