ciprinakos

The guy from the service shop in my city told me to use break disk cleaner - the filter will return to its original color:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For me, Wilbers springs & RaceTech valves combined with a Wilbers rear (with separate reservoir) did the trick nicely. I got it set up acc to my needs & I'm happy. I will not look too soon for another fork upgrade. Last year I rode 700+ km/day twice on dry & pouring rain never losing traction or missing my intended trajectory. Even on the mountain trails (no tarmac but rocks & light mud) my front never faltered on both dry & wet - I did used Pirelli Scorpion Trail rubber :) . See relatedpics in the link bellow.

I have Pirelli Scorpion Trail, made for Ducati Multistrada, and they are great for both road & soft off-road. Check this out: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/gallery/album/6919-romanian-apuseni-mountain-trip/ During my trip, I never had either front or rear running from under me on either big rocks or debris, not to mention on tarmac - I've rubbed my boots off during leaning. :) It's true that the suspension is great also: front is with 1kg/mm Wilbers springs, RaceTech Gold rebound & compression valves with 5W oil and near racing Wilbers shock with remote adjustments. Good rubber + good suspension = Great fun

After getting it out with some difficulty, to do it easy next time, don't forget to use a bit of grease on the rubber seal - at least that's what I did...

Here's how it looks like - was using only the lower lights at that time - http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/gallery/image/64759-seawolves-moto-fest-constanta/

They are a combination of Madhead & Acerbis ( http://www.louis.de/_2007c7110b210fbe814fb3881ce7ae7de2/index.php?topic=artnr_gr&artnr_gr=10019605 - http://www.louis.de/_2007c7110b210fbe814fb3881ce7ae7de2/index.php?topic=artnr_gr&artnr_gr=10019645 ) and they can't be used on stock bars because they are too short. I have a pretty large & high LSL superbike handlebars. Check out the link (from the signature) to my gallery to have a better view. Cheers!

Here's my newly finished project. I kicked out the led strips. More picture sometime later (next week).

My project is still unfinished. I decided, when I'll start working, to ditch the LED strips. Just the projectors are good enough. I'm still waiting for one of the bulb's replacement (one was busted on first firing - bad things happens sometimes). I need to reopen the headlights because the projectors does not have the same cut off line on low beams and I'll use the opportunity to take off the LED - I'll find another use 4 it. @V4Supremacy - nice work! Ballasts are under the side fairings, behind the ECU (on the right) and ABS controller (on the left).

The power/current draw will fry up your switch. Not sure how much is the amperage of the blower's motor but for sure the switch from the picture won't last for long. Not to mention that the blade-s made to have better efficiency in one direction only. Variable rot/min don't thing is an efficient idea. My thought is on lower set temp for the temp switch, manual override for on position and, if so much like, a VTR blade.

I have made this mod a while ago & is great in summer city's heavy traffic. You can see it (if you try a little harder) on the left side of the (black plastic) dashboard with a small LED on op of it: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/gallery/image/61725-new-clutch/ The 12V LED shows/remind me if the switch/blower is on or off. The switch is small and on the low power side of the relay so no or low chances of cooking the switch. This was placed before I swapped the blade wit a VTR's. With the VTR blade in place it was very seldom for me to use the switch anymore.

The engine brake is something else that I like on VFR. But sometime I wish it not to be so strong and to get a little fuel economy on slow/downhill decelerations. I compare it with the car which cuts off the fuel but is not making hard deceleration because the ECU keeps some air path still open in the engine. Like somebody else said it before, a stepper motor for the butterfly valves or another mechanism to keep at least one valve open all the time during deceleration might have helped ... Still I can live & enjoy the bike the way it is (pity I was to late to get the money in time for a torocharger).

Sorry to disappoint but I can't be the first. Many other VFR owners have a steering damper for various reasons. Mine is a situation from last autumn when (luckily) on the highway, at 90 mph, I got a severe head shake due to front wheel air valve failure - the tire got almost full flat. Imagine the sensation... Lucky that the road was relatively free, strait and the truck driver I just overtook slowed down and gave me free space. The did not stop until the bike stopped. After few minutes taken to calm myself I said thanks to "Twist of the wrist" movie and it's teachings. Cheers!

The answer is no, I did not get the HID harnes from you. I'm a seaman and last year, while going (regularly) to Hueneme, I got the agent to order the VFRness bundle for me. I received from the ebay seller that sold me all the projectors, for free, also the controllers with the appropriate harness. It was a struggle to find place for everything. Unfortunately one of the controllers was defective - probably an internal short circuit between the power and the High beam signal. Because I did not have the patience to disassemble the controllers, I simply kick them out and in place I'm using two (one for each pair of bulbs) normal/basic auto relays to power up the bulbs. The high beam signal is going straight to each projector's coil. The delay functionality I've made it using adjustable relays (normal auto relays with a knob adjuster 1-50 sec). They are set up for aprox 7 and 12 sec so that, if all 4 projectors are powered up simultaneously, 2 will fire up immediately and the other two long enough for the power/current consumption to settle down. The latch is from my Cheetah VizAlert and is "...intelligent “engine running” sensor, the POWERSENSEnode, which you just attach directly to the battery terminals. This clever little gizmo automatically powers up your detector or jammer when you start up the engine, and shuts them down when you stop, so there’s no risk of a flat batteries" - quote from the maker's web site. It is connected to the VFRness and give-s the signal to power up the relay/fuse box. The fuse box is under the seat, but in parallel with it I have another 10 fuse box rooted to the right front side (now I have only 2 free slots). I thought of ordering from you but the shipping and the custom fee did not made it worth. Next time I'll reach US I'll try to get a RR, even though the OEM is still working great. The picture taken is not showing the real view - it was dark and the camera (an Iphone4) messed up the colors. Have more patience for more pictures, please. Time, right now, is something that I lack. Cheers!