HumalogAddict

Just bought a 2015 so my 2004 has a friend and I'm looking to buy some extenders for the mirrors. I've had the Lobster ones on my 6th gen for years and really like the extra vision. All websites and brands seem to be discontinued so if anyone has an extra pair I'd be interested. Thanks!

I do indeed have a vfrness installed.

Well now I feel stupid. I had checked the fuses but was looking for burnt (as I have always seen with electrical issues with this bike) and not broken. I went through them again and the two 20a fuses were indeed broken. So the booster pack blew the fuses and thus disabled the fuel pump but the bike was still able to run (badly) on what was in the lines. No charging or starting issue after all 🙂 Thanks for the help!

Thanks for the reply 🙂 The bike is still at work but I will check tomorrow. I do have a voltmeter and I'll brings a few tools with me. The service manual states I need to remove the upper cowl (front cowl) but they are usually incredibly excessive as to what needs to be removed. Can I reach the relay without removing it? I'll also pull the tank and check the voltage at the connection on the pump as well. I'm just not seeing how simply draining the battery could have caused the inability to charge the battery (system voltage at 12.5 whole running) and now the fuel pump not working. Could the battery pack have fried something? I mean it's just a battery pack and not a running car for example. It can only give so much juice. Thanks!

Hello everyone. I'm having an odd issue and was wondering if anybody could help. So yesterday like an idiot I forgot my keys in my ignition and the bike at ON when I went to work. I was happy to find the bike still there when I got back to it 🙂 So anyways I was able to get boosted with a booster pack from work. Bike started easily but was running at 12.5 as per my permanent voltmeter connected directly on the battery. This is obviously quite low as it is always at 14.3-14.4 when the bike is running. Voltage slowly dropped after a few minutes and the bike died. Ok so this would point to an issue with the charging system that just happened to happen at the same time as the battery being drained? Odd but ok, maybe. So I charged the battery overnight on the lowest setting on the work charger which was 2A. Higher then the recommended 1A but that should not be an issue. Battery was fully charged this morning (about 13.5) so I popped it back in. Drops to 12.5 with the key at ON, normal, try to start it, it cranks but will not start. The fuel pump does not prime. Main fuses (30a and both 20a near the battery as I have the vfrness) are all good. Now I'm confused 😕 I got the battery tested just to be sure and it is good (holds charge and load). I also tried putting it in neutral and in gear with the clutch in. I tried with the side stand up to eliminate the switch there. I also tried turning the kill switch off and on a bunch of times to see if anything was loose in there. Nothing helps. Any ideas? Thanks!!

I'm down for a meetup once the damn weather gets better :) Riding a 2004 but looking into an 8th gen so I would love to see what you guys did to yours and what the aftermarket cans sounds like!

Hey all. So after 70k km and 7 summers riding my beloved 6th gen I am leaning towards an 8th gen. I spent a lot of time wrenching the past two summers and I'm ready for something more reliable. So anywho, I was hesitating between a low mileage 2009 and an 8th gen. I figured I could switch over my upgrades to the 2009 but the 8th gen was 5 years newer, easier to resell in the future if need be and had great reviews here and everywhere. I found a beautiful all stock 2014 deluxe with 10k km and was able to test ride it. I rrrreally wanted to love it but I was a little underwhelmed. It was a great ride with the vtec transition now being smooth as hell, much better/newer brakes and suspension but it didn't stir anything in my groin, something I think all bikes should do hahaha :D The lower end power seemed weaker than on my 2004 and it didn't feel like it pulled as much. The whole bike almost felt like it was muzzled. Now it is important to state that it had the OEM can (vs the carbon leo Vince without DB killers on mine) and I changed my gearing to 16/45. Both the can and gearing really helped make the 6th gen the stallion I love to ride so is that really all that was? Am I just so used to my 2004 and so in tune with all of it's quirks and advantages that anything else feels weird? So my question I guess is did you ex 6th geners instantly fall in love with the 8th gen or did you learn to love it? How much of a difference in the grin factor department did your upgrades make? Thanks for the help in these difficult times :p

Aha! Interesting :) I will replace them then. Funny you should mention the running condition as I have been running after reasons why the bike is acting up recently. This happened but I don't see how it could be related to the plugs: The bike has been hesitating recently though and just running poorly in general. We shall see what the new plugs do. As for the oil it sounds from what I read that it would potentially be a leaking gasket but I have not been using up oil and there has never been any type of smoke from the exhaust.

Hi all. I changed my CCTs for some manual APE ones this weekend and decided to check the plugs while everything was apart. I've looked at charts and I think they are ok (maybe 3 is a little oily) but would love some feedback. * 2004 with 85000km (53k miles) * I'm not certain if these are the original plugs but they haven't been changed since I got the bike at 25k km * Gaps were all smaller than the required 0.04 (somewhere between 0.035 and 0.034) Thanks!! 1) 2) 3) 4)

Hi HumalogAddict, Thank you for your donation of 15.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Ok so a little update. Still no idea why it melted as there was no corrosion on it but I swapped out the melted fuse holder (main fuse B, not the one on the VFRness) for a new one. I also installed a voltmeter. I put it directly on the battery poles for now but will eventually wire it in more permanently on the license plate light wire or something. I also went to get the battery tested at a second shop and they confirmed it failed the load test. Pulled out my spare battery (remember that AC Delco deal a few years back? yeah, that one), added the acid and put it on the charger. In the mean time I went for a ride and got this: *After running a few minutes* Idle: 14.3v 5000rpm: 14.4v *During varied riding* Oscillated between 14.3v and 14.5v the entire time. *After an hour of riding* Idle: 14.4v 5000rpm: 14.2v (hmmmmmm) Today I swapped out the batteries and did it all over again. In general the bike feels much better and stronger. *During varied riding* Was at 14.4v for 95% of the ride (14.5v the rest of the time), regardless of speed, rpm or gear *After an hour of riding* __before the fan came on__ Idle: 14.4v 3000rpm: 14.3v 5000rpm: 14.4v __after the fan came on__ Idle: 14.4 - 14.5v 5000rpm: 14.3v (hmmmmmm) So once hot, the alternator seems a little deficient but not that much? Thoughts? Thanks!

Wow, great find thanks! I just ordered one. If it makes any difference it is actually not the 20a fuse holder on the VFRness that melted as that one is not sealed. The one that melted is the waterproof one I installed to replace the flimsy white (originally 30a but now 20a as per the VFRness instructions) main fuse B connector near the battery. Both fuses did blow but only the fuse holder from the main fuse B melted. New information, I got the battery load tested at a local shop and apparently it doesn't hold a charge and needs to be replaced. I don't see how this could be related to the issue at hand but I'll get a new one regardless. And yes a voltmeter will be installed to keep me current hahahaha

Could you elaborate a little on this please? Sorry I have limited skills in electrical things :) Thanks!

Ok so I went to a bunch of stores to try to replace the red connector for the starter relay but it does not seem to be available anywhere. Local dealers do not carry them either. You can buy a new relay but the connector is part of the main harness. The only option was on eBay from China so I ordered one so it should get here it in anywhere from 4 to 35 weeks I guess :) So in the meantime I cleaned up the male tab on the relay and the female portion in the red connector, closed up the female part a bit, stuffed the whole thing with ox-gard and closed it up. Cleaned, ox-garded, reconnected and shrink wrapped the 3 yellow wires and fired it up. Seems to run well. Current leakage test: 1.93mA Alternator coil resistance: all more or less 0.3 ohms 12.6v at the battery when the bike is off (a little low but that's what Yuasa calls for on their website) 14.3v at idle with a warm engine 14.45v at 5000rpm Although these voltage numbers are within the service manual specs of idle voltage < charging voltage < 15.5v they seem a little high to me. Thoughts?

I have ruled out the fuel pump as being the issue. Please see this following thread for the exciting next episode in my electrical woes: