All Activity

No difference.

Looking for Helibars, Hurrican, or Convertibars shipped to Minnesota.

Looking for a sargent with red welt for a 5th gen. Shipped to Minnesota.

Hi, i just bought a -97 VFR750F, imported to Sweden from Germany. Headlight won't come on and i tracked the fault to a cold soldered wire which has broken off on the dimmer button switch. Seems to be a hack job made by one of the previous owners. I tried to see where it's supposed to be but it's cramped in there, hard to get access and solder it properly - does anyone have the know-how or some pictures of the left bar switch assy internals? I tried to find exploded views without luck so i'd appreciate any info🙂 thanks!

I believe I found the issue. Of all the places, fixya.com. https://www.fixya.com/motorcycles/t19075221-honda_vfr_800_a2_only_firing_1 Mine isn't firing on any. However, I called my dad, discussing about how I had checked continuity, and the four together have continuity to each other, but none to anything else. He suggested hotwiring one of the black/white cables to something else. So I did that. I pulled coil pack #1 out, with the plug, and disconnected the pack. I shoved the jumper wire into the female black/white connector, and then inserted the other end to the back of the fuel shutoff relay connector. I then sprayed starter fluid, and it tried to start. I then pulled the connector off of #3, and plugged in the coilpack I had pulled from 1, and put the plug in into it, and held it next to the frame. Spark! Remove the jumper wire, no spark again. So I am pretty sure the fixya guy is correct about this, so now I think I am going to have to tear the whole rear end off to remove the battery box, so I can correctly access where the wires splice together. Joy. My buddy suggested just replacing the wires and splicing them to another black/white connection, but I really hate doing things half-assedly. I guess I'll see how bad it will be to get to that connection point. I can see where they are taped together, just out of reach behind the front of the battery box. 20250703_110639.mp4

Has anyone been able to remove the rear exhaust headers from an 86 Rc24 without dropping the engine? I think one has a leak somewhere even though it is stainess steel. Maybe just needs a new gasket.

Well this morning started working on the upper front fairing, first talking off the broken part of the cover plate all non Japanese RC24/26 has After a good cleaning to get old glue off as supporting the cracks it was time to fasten a healthy one I did take off the other RC24'S fairing as I mounted the 88-89 RC24 front turn signals. The Japanese front turn signals sure are nice, picture below Well back to my bike, and next the front fairing was mounted as turn signals A bit after midday the part I been waiting for arrived So mounted, added oil to engine as coolant and did drive to get some fresh fuel. But clearly it's not my day The crabs are flooding and clutch cover leaks. Don't know if the O-rings will swell from the fuel? It happened to my white RC24, but not the red one. The clutch cover I need to open and see the reason, I mounted a fresh OEM gasket as cleaned surfaces as good as I could. If carbs still leaking after a few days I just have to take them out..... So no VFR riding still, bummer, but guess 11 month sitting does it's thing. But not my day...

What a fun project. From an engineering perspective, the closer you sit the bike to the vertical supports, the lower the bending moment on the cantilever will be. I do occasionally drive a counterbalance fork lift (I have a licence and everything!) and I can tell you that putting 1 tonne loads onto the third level of pallet racking takes some hand-eye coordination and a little nerve. You shouldn't have too many problems with your nifty lift truck as I expect the visibility will be much better. You will need to make sure the floor under your shelves is really smooth as the wheels look quite small.

I ran that profile years ago, and under deceleration around 40~30 mph the 3rd Gen got a little bit of speed wobble type headshake, every time and got worse as the tire wore. The problem went away when I went to a 70 series tire. This was the original Dunlop Sportmax tire from 1992, maybe could have just been a bad tire as I'm sure there are bikes that run that tire without issue, hence why they make them...

It looks like there are good resources for "Beam Loads" and "Column Loads" for Unistrut at given spans online. The only worry I would have is it pulling out of the wall, or bending just below the 45 degree brace. If they are much taller than the bikes, you can run a piece of Unistrut or metal/wood beams across form side to side to prevent collapsing in on itself, and use those to hang your lighting. Although you are extremely thorough in everything I have ever seen you do, so you probably already have a way better plan than my quick brainstorm... Do post pics as you're building it, we need a good project here to keep us dreaming about our own work spaces! Is it too wet there for painted or epoxy floors?

I'm enjoying this thread, looking forward to all the other things you will figure out, and the final result. Are the elevated motorcycle "shelves" really just for display, or do you intend to walk downstairs one morning, decide which bike is perfect for a ride that day, bring it down and zoom off?

And yet another lot done ! From now on, it might get a little slower (yup, even slower than now 🙄) as I just moved out and don't have a space on my own to work from, I'll have to do whatever I need at work during breaks. Also, before I put her back together, I've got to spend about 1k in parts and quite a few hours, the lady needs a lot of attention ... The most worrying is that constant oil sweating at the top of the engine, I've moved the bike to a storage unit 3 days ago and noticed today that it keeps leaking a bit under even though the engine has been on for over 6 months.

Generally, Honda parts like that are bike-specific. That part number includes "MCW", which is the Parts Classification Number for the 6th gen VFR (VTEC), indicating that Honda originally designed that part to fit that bike. It is possible that they then spec'd the same part for other bikes (if so, the part number would not change), but unlikely. Ciao, JZH

Okay, I see what you mean now. Yes, I plan to make some sort of "sled" to allow the bikes to be lifted up using a fork. The frames don't need to be very heavy duty (i.e., heavy), but I do need at least six of them, so I'm pretty sure I'll be welding them myself. Because the shelves will not go all the way to the wall (because the verticals will be in the way), I was thinking about having each sled extend over the front and rear of the shelf with a kind of 30-40mm "tongue" to keep the sled effectively locked in place until lifted straight up with the fork (lift). Fortunately, I have something like 6-7 of these Baxley Wheel Chock knock-offs already, which is a wheel chock design I like because it pinches and holds the front wheel very securely: The clever bit of this design is the articulated wheel clamp, which would be fairly difficult for me to duplicate, but I could probably create a lightweight, fork lift-compatible frame which simply includes a horizontal bracket with angled pivots like that, thus allowing me to use the parts from the stands I've already got. Another thing to CAD... My Unistrut parts arrived, so I mocked one up to get the scale into my head. That bracket is 2m above the floor, which is where the top of the shelf would be. Yikes, that's up there! I'm not sure how deep the shelves should be, but the minimum would be 600mm, and maximum probably 1m. IIRC, the 5th gen in the background measures ~770mm bar-end to bar-end, but in theory the shelf could be narrower than that. The workbenches below will be a standard 600mm deep, but 41mm from the wall. They make these pre-welded "cantilever arms" for Unistrut in all kinds of sizes, up to 1m long, and they're silly cheap (like £8 each), so I will probably use them for the main shelf supports. I'd then only have to cut, drill and weld the 45-degree brackets supporting them, using 30mm mild steel box section and 40mm x 8mm flat bar. Another fun fact is that because my ceiling is 3.5m high, I'll have to buy the 6m lengths of strut and cut them down if I don't want to couple two of them (and I don't!). Fortunately, they will still fit in the van--so long as I cut them first. Ciao, JZH

Webbike Japan lists these for USD79.

You were absolutely right about both of those things. Thank you so much

The short answer is: You would not be the first motorcycle rider to inspect it for cracks, and if none found, put it in a vise and slowly bend it back into shape with a shifting spanner and maybe a pipe on the handle for leverage. Hopefully somewhere you have a photo of the bike to give you an idea of what the final product should look like. If not cracked but severely bent, you could do the same with heating it at the bend with a torch, but if you have not done this before, I would not recommend it as you can weaken the metal. Looking around, the 5th Gen and the 8th Gen pedals are different part numbers. Does not mean they would not work, but I have no personal knowledge having not swapped them. If you end up looking for a used one, as you are in the UK, you can try David Silver Spares. I bought a few things from them for my 91 VFR when I lived there. Good bunch. Homepage - David Silver Spares If all else fails, CMSNL over in the Netherlands, shows them ( Part number 46500MCWD00) for the princely sum of £120 plus shipping and I assume VAT. yikes. Honda Motorcycle Parts, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha Motorcycle Parts - ATV, Classic Bike, Dirt Bike Parts Hope this is of some help.

What is better than a afternoon ride after some vfr work in the garage, especially as weather is nice, 26°C at highest and sunny ☀️ 😎 This time to a other cafe that has a bit bigger road there, "the green hell" I call it, lots of small elevation change's as curves, shame half the road has a 60km/h restriction these days, your driver's license is sure out in the wind..... But still a delight to ride !

Hi. My 2002 VFR 800 VTEC fell over and has bent the "Rear Brake Pedal" ( my own fault, for putting it on the side stand, and leaving it literally vertical.😳🤭) So is there any other "Honda Rear Brake Pedal" that will fit it, or has it got to be from a 800 VTEC. TIA.

Do you guys know if a newer motor will fit in my 2010? Like a 12 or 13? Is there any physical differences? Saw one on eBay.

Couple things: "All fuses are good" Does that include the Main Fuse that is under a cover on the solenoid holder? I have to ask. Also, solenoids come in two styles and they are mirror images of each other. There is usually a "B" (Battery) and an "M" (Motor) molded into the plastic near the cable posts. If you got an opposite (and your original unit was really bad), you will need to re-pin the wires on the plug in the mirror image too. Also closely inspect the wires going into that plug. It is VERY common for those to be melted and burnt and can cause what you describe. Sometimes you don;t realize how bad it is until you really look close. Also, you can plug in your original solenoid just to see if you get any power again. Great choice in a VFR model and good luck.

thank you soooo much, they even the 1986 model and hrc and repsol ones. planning to posts some pictures.

Hi. My 2002 VFR 800 VTEC fell over and has bent the "Rear Brake Pedal" ( my own fault, for putting it on the side stand, and leaving it literally vertical.😳🤭) So is there any other "Honda Rear Brake Pedal" that will fit it, or has it got to be from a 800 VTEC. TIA.

This guy should be able to sort you out, he’s had everything I wanted for my 89 https://shop.xtremedecals.com/shop/category.aspx/vfr-series/38/