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I’m keeping the Sssa, i was referring to the tail section and seat unit/ subframe.

Thanks for the feedback so far, came across this product and I really like the idea 😄 Skunklock Chemical , I wonder if it's available in the UK!

A VFR-based streetfighter without the SSSA would be...unusual. It can be done, but most swing arm conversions go the other way! You'd probably have better luck looking for Yam R6 SSSA conversion threads and reverse the process documented there. The most important swing arm dimension is probably the pivot width and shaft diameter, but you'd first need to figure out how the shock and linkage are going to work. The VFR SSSAs and linkages are designed to work with a shock which has a very strong spring and a very short travel. Generally, I'd think that if you're converting to a conventional swing arm, you would probably also want to convert to a conventional shock and shock linkage at the same time. Good luck! Ciao, JZH

FWIW, any 6th-gen part with "MBG" in its part number is a 5th-gen part already. Ciao, JZH

Parts arrived as promised. Very good customer service, I will be a repeat customer. Salut, en suivant vos échanges sur les tendeurs de chaîne pour VFR, ça m’a donné envie de tester quelque chose de différent pour me détendre après le travail. Un ami m’a parlé d’un site avec des bonus pour les joueurs de France et j’ai essayé le plinko game. Au début, j’ai perdu quelques petites mises, puis j’ai pris un peu plus de risque et j’ai décroché un gros gain. Depuis, c’est devenu mon petit rituel du soir, et les bonus pour la France rendent le jeu encore plus agréable. Keep us posted

GACK!!!!!

So much ado about Nothing.

certainly looks better than what came out of my tank when i first bought it

Hope you weren't smoking at the time!🤯 Fuel would show a distinct bottom layer if there is much water in there.

Wheels, front axle and discs are all the same.

👍👍👍 What mellow said.

New thread but is probably useful. Since the 5th gen bikes are 24 to 27 years old, more and more parts are getting listed as not available in the parts fisches. But many parts still listed for the 6th also are the same or very simular to the 5ths and will work fine. Recent example... This rear brake guide snapped off and the new 6th is near identical.. 5th vs 6th Anyway I think Terry confirmed that 6th gen insulators will work on 5th gens... Would like to continue building this thread. If you could plz.... List your 6th parts you have used lately or have found for a fact that they also work on 5th gens. Lets see how far we can go with this. Thanks all and cheerz

That is exactly what happened Terry. At least I got a fuel sample though. Thanks.

Regarding the fuel return line, this is part of the way fuel pressure is regulated to the injectors. The pump generates excess pressure, and the fuel pressure regulator allows excess pressure to drain back to the tank. I think this circulation also helps to cool the pump when the level is low. The FPR also takes a vacuum signal from an intake tract and this is used to adjust pressure up and down so the fuel pressure remains constant relative to the intake vacuum. I've only ever disconnected the return line when the tank was flipped over on its back (safe to do by the way, the cap will seal tight). I doubt it has any kind of check valve in the tank so my guess is fuel will flow out when the hose is removed.

Thanks guys, i’ve come across that bike previously on fb. Great looking though 👍

I believe you are being way too concerned over a non-issue. Dri-gas is fine, use it according to directions. Water in the fuel will not blow up your engine...jeesh! Some water drops MAY have entered the fuel tank when the filler cap was opened, but certainly not much. Rod out that over fill drain, Compressed air may blow the tube off the fitting, but it is not difficult to replace. If you are using pump gas, the alcohol will help with clearing any water. Now if you have a LOT of water in the tank, Just syphon it all out ang start fresh!

I forgot to mention that I refurbished those calipers, and replaced the pads with new ones. I placed the caliper parts in the sonic cleaner, made sure to run a green scotchbrite on the pins and backing plate. I added some brake grease on those items and on the sides of the new pads that touches those parts.

Take a listen to what my VFR sounded like before & after replacing both ccts.

Yes, thank you Burger, very helpful advice indeed. So I've added a short video to make sure that I'm targeting the right hose to remove in order to catch the fuel (the fuel return line).Your instructions were quite clear I'm sure, though for the sake of posterity and potential usefulness to other novice mechanics such as myself, I thought I'd chuck it in here anyway. https://youtube.com/shorts/KjknScI3G8w?feature=share Also, I was wondering, since it is the fuel return line, does this mean that fuel that I will collect using this method will have came into contact with the fuel injectors in anyway? The fuel is obviously not being used for combustion, so I'm guessing that it would be unlikely. It's interesting to me to find that there is such a channel, so to speak, as a fuel return line; previously I had just imagined that fuel leaving a motorcycle tank would be destined for a one way journey of sorts before being ignited. There's no danger of fuel coming out from the point where I will disconnect the fuel return line? This is very interesting, I'm enjoying learning more about the bike, and thank you for you help. Ah yes Terry. The overflow is indeed blocked, I did indentify it, and tried what some have suggested... putting some strimmer wire down into the hole in order to unblock it. The thing is, the two gauges of strimmer wire that I tried seemed to be a bit stiff, and I didn't want to damage the overflow at all. The sales assistant at my local motorcycle store recommended using guitar string, which I will give a go. I'll report back on what I found to work best. The old school methylated spirits trick... I was reading that some alcohols are better than others for the purpose of helping dispell water in a tank. The common ones (ChatGPT): Meths (methylated spirits / ethanol + additives) → old-school hack, works, but leaves a bit of residue, and the purple dye/denaturants aren’t doing your injectors/carb jets any favours. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) → technically does the same job, miscible with water and petrol, but it’s not as efficient at binding water as methanol/ethanol. Methanol (what’s in HEET yellow bottle) → the most effective at water absorption, which is why HEET and similar products are basically just methanol. Isopropyl + petrol → some commercial products use a blend, but it’s not usually sold pure for that use. Guys, thanks very much for the responses. I hope to be on the road again very soon, like I mentioned, the bike needs a good bit of TLC before she's 100%... and I'm aiming to address issues as they come to my attention. Many thanks again.

Clattery when warmed (when the idle speed drops back) is probably the CCTs but could also just be clutch rattle, which might be fixed with a starter valve balance. The clutch rattle will go away with the lever pulled in a little. CCT noise is usually worst below about 3k rpm and then not noticeable above that.

An old trick for dealing with water in petrol was to add a small quantity of methylated spirits to the tank; this allows a small amount of water to be absorbed back into the fuel. If you are already using an ethanol blended fuel, it should be doing this already. Burger's advice above is sound regarding the smaller fuel return hose; you can also just apply 12v power direct to the brown wire terminal to continually run the pump if you want to drain the fuel. This line comes from the fuel pressure regulator that also feeds the fuel rails; as long as the engine is not running none of this fuel will make it into the already-full rails/injectors. Water should not be sitting around the tank unless the water drain/overflow is clogged. When you have the tank lifted, the water drain is the larger hose of the two plugged in near the front underside of the tank, that connects to a pipe that runs right through the tank from the filler area. The hose should just terminate under the bike left side.