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I avoid Greedletube whenever possible.

Correct. I am going to give my cooling system a refresh this winter, thermostat out and tested. Radiators flushed and externally cleaned. If budget allows, some fancy Mello Dude coolant hoses 😁, more powerful fan, etc. It's always bugged me that the fan waits to turn until 219F (104 C), then struggle or fail to keep the temps down when the ambient temp is +90 F and the temp on the tarmac is comfortably in 3 digit Farenheit. So I think a slightly lower temp sending unit in the 95-100 C would be benificial. This is not a problem where I live, in late Spring the temps are 2C to maybe 15C, the bike rarely gets above 85C if that. In the sumner, its 90-95 C. It's when I head south, and ambient temps climb markedly, that the bike will occasionally turn onto a Red, two wheeled frying pan. Yes, Honda says anything over 252 F (122 C) is considered overheating, but...........I think I can do without the bike hitting 232 F (112 C) as it did last year. Any suggestions, observations, or critiques are welcome and encouraged! This is my first 5th Gen, and first bike with side mounted radiators, I am far from being an expert, no matter what I think.......

I’m one of those Dave Moss happy customers, helped me set up my RC51 at Thunderhill a few years ago. He can be gruff and abrasive, but he knows what he’s doing.

Thanks for the heads up. I take a little pride in not giving garbage of this sort a click. Still haven't watched a YammieNoob video. 😇

While I personally wouldn't start with 400 anything on my tubes, as long as they aren't the coated variety of high end tubes, some knocking down of artifacts is perfectly acceptable on hardened chrome. In the real world where debris hits your chrome tubes, without addressing trouble spots your options would be to change your seals every month (or sooner) or replace your tubes for any anomaly that could take out a seal. The commentator sure seems like a wanker. I think in the video he states that they are coated tubes, which they are not. That being said, it seems like Moss immediately went for a harsh option for some "dark spots"? "Slide" story: When I worked for a Honda/Yamaha dealership, this know-it-all ASS-HAT came in with his R!'s Gold Titanium Nitride coated fork tubes. He had his forks completely disassembled by another shop and wanted his tubes "warrantied" because the coating was "failing". In my mind I was like, "Here we fucking go. this oughta be fun." The Salesman is standing at the counter with him assuring him everything will be fine, shouldn't be a problem, blah blah blah. His bike was pretty new (we sold it to him) and I was VERY skeptical. I hadn't heard of anything similar. And if it was happening so soon, I probably would have by then. I'm looking at the tubes and I didn't see failing anything. You could feel something with your fingernail, but it sure seemed to be built up rubber or something. "Give me a couple minutes to look into something." I took the tubes back into the shop (WITHOUT HIM), got a brand new diaper and some Mothers Polish. It started coming right off. I knew if there was even the slightest imperfection anywhere he was going to squawk. I cleaned up the tubes, they looked BRAND FUCKING NEW. The gold coating was still exactly the same, not lighter looking at all. I came out with a straight face, said they weren't failing, if he just would have looked closely it was just what seemed to be some seal rubber build up and he can go away and have his forks reassembled by whatever suspension "expert" took them apart. He went over them like a fucking NASA mirror inspector and found NOTHING. It was FUCKING GLORIOUS watching him squirm and slink away. ASS-HAT.

"The Workshop" guy, Matt, I think he's called is a complete moron, my advice is take no notice of his trolling garbage, he gets off on trolling others on Youtube, he's been getting away with it for yrs, dunno why Youtube aren't banning his vile crap. Dave's using 400/800 wet & dry paper which is used to sand when prepping paintwork, it's perfectly ok to use on "Hard chromed" stanchions, it's not emery paper, which something very different, it's a similar process to honing an engine cylinder bore so it holds a film of oil, which actually reduced stanchion & slide bush wear. I've done this hundreds of times, all suspension service centres do it, they spin stanchion in a lathe chuck, similar end result doing it by hand. Dave Moss is no Guru, but he's very knowledgeable about suspension setup & tyre wear, he's made a living out of it for yrs, if he was rubbish, he'd have been out of business yrs ago. Dave has many satisfied track day customers, you can't please everyone, from what I've seen over the yrs, many of Dave's track customers haven't a Scooby Doo how to ride let alone setup a bikes suspension, yet they go posting complaints about stuff they've no clue about, it's human nature to complain, we all do it, but there's complaining when you have some technical know how & there's complaining when you know fuck all like this clown on "The Workshop".

I'm not expressing any opinion on Dave Moss because I consider myself to have an 'L' plate when it comes to motorcycle maintenance. Having said that, I am quite familiar with 400 grit emery paper and said 'Yikes!' when I watched this. Posting this because he has done a very good job marketing himself as a suspension guru, and this gives one food for thought about whom to trust or not trust when you are in the learning stage. Thought I should share it with the community. 'The workshop' channel owner is often crude with his language, but he does have some decent technical knowledge. I know this because I have watched many of his Suzuki SV1000 videos. Reading some of the Comments below the video is also interesting

Hi Gaz. Yes i made it using stainless steel tubes pre-formed in straight, 45° and 90° pieces pre-assembled by me with spot welding, for final welding i asked to a pro. But i made a mistake: as you can see the tubes passing under oil pan are not parallel to, but divergent. Anyway most of exhaust system will be modified 'cause i will change the rear fork with a two-arms for weight reason; so i have no space enough on left side. Final solution will be a 4 in 2 system with exit at two sides of bike. (as the VTR twin). Anyway, an homemade system for a road bike is possible to build, following the stock path. Is not an easy work, but it's not so complicate as appear. Ciao, Luigi.

Curious as to why you need thread size? Dya need a sender with a different min/max range?

Hey Luigi. Can I ask the brand of headers you've fitted? or Is it a homemade system?

Anyway, the HRC solution for the RC45 are the best result. Also for aestetical look. Do you agree?

Thank you. Installing Intercooler are not difficult and it needs only two alloy joint on main circuit to let flow water to cooler and return. At moment i'm thinking to use two flat radiator mounted in the usual position with the help of the airscoop discussed above, keeping the small one (in pic posted when i started the topic) instead the oil rad that will moved in the fairing. Another solution can be keeping the oil radiator in stock position, adding a small, triangular water rad placed in low position. With small dimension maybe i could fix the problem of position too close to exhaust, without the risk of contact with front wheel when the fork are bottomed down. Obviuosly all modifications are made for track use. On open road, except in a city traffic, the cooling system works well enough. I'll keep you update, i just ask for patience 'cause are not the only bike that i'm workin on. Ciao! Luigi.

Stock rads work fine & if a track bike they will work better as no antifreeze required. I run 25/75 (antifreeze/distilled water) & can cane my 118hp/175Kg VFR800 all day in up to 33C ambient temps with no issues. I replaced the water pump with an electric one that works at one speed, this cools the system quicker when you are on slowdown or idling, plus it runs with the ignition on so you can avoid heat soak if you have to stop quickly.

As the title states, I am looking to buy a power commander 5, or a rapid bike race for my 06 VFR800 abs. I would prefer the RB Race over a PC V, but beggars can't be choosers since the Rapid is no longer being manufactured. As much as i dislike having to do it, To weed out the likely spam about to come my way, send a picture of what you have that has a paper with your username, and the current date and time hand written on it otherwise i will assume it to be spam.

Yeah & SS rear wheel with external disc in some views, but still pretty interesting. I'm sure AI had a hand in it.

awesome suggestion, thank you sir.

Wow... you've done such an incredible job! You're giving me endless inspiration for my big and first project, also an '89 (big by my standards at least!) Mine aren't nearly as in need of resurrection as yours were, but between some notable cracks around the mounts and general extensive wear/weathering (plus a rather questionable DIY spray job that saw even the rims attacked) I'd like to give them some life back. Would I be hurling myself too far into the deep end attempting to repair and work with what I've got, considering this is my first shot at anything of this nature? I've seen some alternative 'new' fairings available on ebay etc. but naturally there's always risks of making sure things fit and having it survive shipping to Aus. The tail box looks awesome, I can see why you're exceptionally proud of it. I think that much is definitely out of my depths... at least for this first project... Regardless of age, you're never too old to keep doing the things you love. I'd say they're surprised you're still doing it all yourself just because you're doing it better then they could 😉

European face-off. Geez. I'm pretty sure I can find a John Cleese Monty Python meme that sums this up.

Thanks Gaz, 10mm seemed small to me. Guess I'll can the reference I got that from.

All 5th Gens use same part numbers: Rad temp sender = M16 x 1.5mm. Engine temp sender = M12 x 1.5mm. 👍

Pray tell the folly of such situation?

Correctemundo!!

Can anyone here confirm that the temp sender on a 5th Gen (2001) is 10mm x 1.25mm. Really don't want to.have to pull mine in my 25f garage. 🙂 Thanks

The coil on plug conversion is quick and easy and would solve the coil placement issue. GSXR 750/1000 coils can be had for $40-$50 on eBay, standard Denso coil. Use CBR1000R ('08-'11) coil harness ($10) for a clean plug in solution. .