luigi

Battery and electrical stuff position looks very nice. Ciao, Luigi.

Hi Monstar. Be careful to make many changement all in one. If something going wrong work to fix it became hard... Ciao, Luigi.

Hi JZH. Argon is sold in a near town of mine, find it is not a problem. Now i'm finishing a work on a GSXF 750 Suzuki frame using the usual MMA welding, then i will "launch" myself in TIG welding world... Ciao.

Hi Monstar. Yes, forks are from a Suzuki GSXR 750 (i don't remember M.Y.). Yoke are in Anticorodal alloy (i don't know if have same name in U.S.) designed by me on CAD, then machined on CNC, but it needs a new project with different dimensions. Radiators are actually in unsolved situation, i decided to move them from stock position to front and to be sure to have a well cooling in track use (VFR 800 are always near to overheating in road use) more, i swapped stock oil cooler, with a water/oil cooler from a CBR 900, so the cooling needing for water in circuit are increased. I looking for a right solution using all room available in the front. Full exhaust are made by me using inox steel tubes (bought already curved, on in straight pieces), then spot welded to correct position and finally TIG welded by a specialist. Rear subframe needs modify to look better. All work are made by me for ideas or design parts, for manufacturing i have some reference (welding, CNC... ) i prefer so 'cause i have not lathe of other machine tools, so i choose to let the work to someone who can assure me high precision and tight tolerances. Recently i've bought a non-professional TIG welder why i want learn some basic, but with the Covid lockdown have no buy yet the required Argon gas... ciao, Luigi.

Very nice profiled tail.

Hi Monstar. Interesting work. I 'm working on a similar project based on RC46 (VFR800). All information that you will share are appreciated. This is actual situation. My idea is swap swingarm with another one from a CBR for weight reasons.

Hi to all. The choice is strictly constrained to the usual use. I'm in Italy and the stock ratio for the my roads and highways are good enough. Yes, i think that it's a little bit overgeared, but the engine torque helps and i really never needed to change sprockets and/or gears. More, the speedometer reads the sensor fitted on sprocket cover, if you change something in final transmission enforce you to install a device as the Healtech speed corrector. In conclusion, yes, maybe the stock final transmission is overgeared but i think that the work and conseguences of a ratio reduction don't worth the results. Ciao, Luigi.

Hi to all!!! I'm back to continue the work! Ciao, Luigi.

Ciao Alessandro, benvenuto! Luigi.

Hi. I've installed the kit almost immediadetely after i bought the bike, so i've not used much time in OEM conditions. If you have no trouble with gear i don't think it's so necessary, i've installed to test it 'cause i'm a modifications enthusiast, not for real needings. Anyway i've never had problems, maybe just very few times in more than 8 years of daily use (even i hard condition like fast shiftin-up without clutch) i've had a engaged gear missed, but i don't think for a kit guilt Honestly i can't say nothing of wrong. Installation is not so difficult, i complete the work in a pair of hour, working slow. If i remember good the only part excluded by the kit is the water pump o-ring bought from an Honda dealer, the rest is included in the kit. The price is not so high and, anyway, if you are not satisflied, you can return to the OEM equipment at any time. Hope helps Ciao, Luigi.

Hi. I've installed that kit on my 5th gen VFR. Ask, if you need infos. Ciao, Luigi.

I agree. Better in the garage... Removing air- box and throttle bodies are not difficult. You just need three things the right screwdriver for the four air funnel cross-head screws a very long screwdriver to loose the clips locking the throttle bodies (there's two clips for each plastic insulator, the upper is easier to work on) an hairdryer (yes, an hairdryer or somethin' of this kind) to heat the insulators and make the throttle bodies removal easier. Keep attention to: dont over-loose the insulators clips to dont lose tha screw square nut. find the right place where to apply the removing force to avoid some crack in the body. remember, if you disconnect the tank with fuel inside from the bodies, that the return hose have no stopping fuel valve so the fuel flows out freely once disconnected, lock it with a plastic strip or something of this kind. Ciao.

Stay up keef, a leakage in that engine zone can be just an O-ring or a hose damaged. I don't think something of worst. I know, checking that parts is a very noising job (removing the air box and throttle body... ) but making a special it means have this problems too. Ciao, Luigi.