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I love mine as well but the autotune clearly doesn't work right. I have the Bluetooth dongle as well so I can data log the AFR, RPM and TPS. The autotune reacts to throttle input enrichment by enleaning the mixture. Then it tries to correct this by going overly rich in the next cell. Then you get -15 in one cell and +15 in the next one. Spiky, silly, useless map. I've done the data logging with the dongle, filtering and averaging the data in excel and produced the final map for my bike. It doesn't resemble the mess that autotune created whatsoever. The logs confirm that the AFR is as targeted, the bike feels good. With autotune map it just gets worse and worse as it does it's thing, to the point of stumbling and misfiring because it runs so lean.

Nah - RBR fixes a lot of the 6th gen's underlying issues very well, that I haven't otherwise been able to completely resolve since I bought it in 2003. Couldn't pay me to remove it from my bike.

Don't throw parts (thermostat) at it before doing some basic troubleshooting. Tell yourself you're a motorcycle tech. Mechanic it. My gut tells me your thermostat is probably opening. Wheel the bike outside and have an IR thermostat gun in hand. Pull one of the side plastics, maybe the right so you can get a good shot at the radiator. Start the bike and watch the radiator's temp with your temp gun and the indicated temp on the dash. During initial warm up as the bike temp climbs you should see a slight slow rise in the radiator, but nothing drastic or hurried. Watch the VFR approach indicated 180 on the dash. Around this time you should observe a rapid rise in radiator temperature as the thermostat begins to open. If this occurs, congratulations your thermostat is probably fine. If you're still not convinced this way, pull the current thermostat and dunk it in hot water as per the service manual. 5th gens run hotter in hot weather (seems obvious, right?), and the radiator fan with stock blades doesn't like slow speed riding. Source: me ,I've ridden 5th gens all over the country and southwest in some stupid hot temps. The fan is pulling air from outside the bike pushing towards the inner cowl area by the front cylinder. When you move at good speed air enters the cowl leaving the sides of the bike. Fairings are designed to create a low pressure area that helps draw air through. Note the fan air direction is counter to air direction when you're really moving. When you're just putting along say 20 - 30, the fan air is fighting incoming air and there is cancellation. Sort of like having a blocked radiator . One trip a few years ago saw me stuck in traffic on I-10 in AZ on a Sunday afternoon and it was around 105. Someone decided to blowup their farm truck trailer and shutdown the interstate. I crept along watching my coolant temp approaching 240F, at which point I started lane splitting following some random old boy who was on a Harley. Highest I saw was an indicated 242F. I managed to get out of there before 250F shutdown and the fan stayed on for another 50 miles until I stopped for gas. I don't think it dropped below 230. The fan was fighting against the moving air leaving the right side as the only free flowing radiator. I could feel my right knee getting air fried while my left wasn't so bothered. You tell me you saw your VFR hit 225 on a really hot day I would just blink a few times and respond with "....and?" You never did hit 250F shutdown, so has there actually been a problem? Test the thermostat, have the radiators flushed if you're so inclined and go ride.

Thank you so much you just make my day 👍

i think the larger culprit is that the stock fan is just not fit for purpose. my suzuki was having similar problems; when the summer would hit here in tejas, the fan would come on and the temp would just continue to climb regardless, even with a fresh coolant flush and new tstat. swapping in a nice beefy 5" spal unit fixed the problem, though i had to wire it to a switch and relay because the original fan circuit just couldn't handle it. admittedly my vfr isn't quite yet in a running state, but i did put power to it and feel the airflow from the fan just to see if i'd be potentially dealing with the same issues, and a typhoon it sure ain't. even though the spal is a good bit smaller, it flows a whole lot more air. of course the problem we run into is finding one that'll fit, considering the distinct lack of space between either radiator and the engine. this mishimoto unit appears like it'll fit the bill; i ordered one and have it on my shelf ready to go in, but up until just recently i've just been too busy with life things to turn any wrenches. fitment results will be forthcoming.

Somewhat recent content from 44Teeth if you don't know where to start.

🫡 I liked the adjustability.

Last Spring the bike randomly started to have cooling issues. Inconveniently I was 350 miles from home. I went through western Maine to avoid Mass Traffic and ended up stuck in traffic because of construction on 84, when I noticed my temp was reading 229-231f. There was no breakdown lane, so I nursed the bike along for 30 min or so until I could pull over. I confirmed I had coolant in the reservoir and the fan was running hard, constantly. I Let the bike cool down for a while and decided to keep going as I was still 300 miles from my hotel. It was around 95F ambient temp, so quite a bit more on the tarmac, but it started raining fairly hard so I figured that might help. Long story short I pulled in a bit after 9pm into Wilkes Barre and parked up. The bike sat at 219-226 f for the rest of the day. I had skipped a gas stop and ran the bike to 210 miles on the trip Odometer in case I ended up having to have a go at the thermostat, I had all my tools with me if I did. 6am the next day I lifted the tank and started to remove the airbox, when I decided to just start the bike and see what happened. In the cool of the morning it would get to about 185f then drop. It did this for 5 or six cycles so I ran the engine up to 219f (it took a while) fan came on, temp dropped. I hate it when things fix themselves. I loaded up and did 2,100 miles after with no issues. 4 days after getting home, I headed out with 2 buddies for 1,700 up to Cape Breton and Nova Scotia, no issues. Parked the bike up for June and July. Mid August headed to the White Mountains to meet some other friends, ride Mt. Washington, etc. it was 95f here in Maine at noon, never have seen it that hot. Bike ran up to 226-230f until early evening when the ambient temp dropped, then the bike was fine. Sept. took a 2,800 ride to western PA for a Fall meet, returned via the Adirondacks and Quebec. no issues. Oct. took a 1,300 mile ill advised ride up to the St. Lawrence in Quebec., never saw above 46f ambient, obviously no issues. So, a new Thermostat is in order, I'm sure its original as the PO admitted to never working on the bike. I have read Mello Dudes and others excellent write ups on this, so I know whats involved. I have also pulled and installed pretty much all the carbs on my earlier V4's, some multiple times, so not to worried about the TB's. Well maybe the Vacuum hoses😁 BTW, got sticker shock when I went looking for a Thermostat, $52-$75, yikes Thinking a Radiator flush would be a good idea also. Lastly, it appears that even when the cooling system is working as it should, it struggles when the ambient temp starts to hit 90f and it cant shed heat quickly enough. I'm looking at installing a lower temp sending unit 210f to help get ahead of that. Thoughts or experience on this would be welcome. Lastly, when looking at my wiring diagram, I notice the sending unit has constant postive power to it like my earlier V4's, but the ground is routed through the ECU. Why would they do that? If your thinking this is a long, long post, you are correct, It started snowing here 2 weeks before Thanksgiving and the plow trucks have been by my house 5 times today, Cabin fever has set in.⛄☃️😶‍🌫️ Thanks Michael

Does Robo-cop want his left leg back? That is really fugly, what's wrong with stock kick stand?

I respect that. But I think you're missing out on a lot of great motorcycle journalism by folks who make a living from what they write.

I forgot to mention, I don't belong to any forums that are not member supported. Personal choice. I did join some years ago that turned out to be obviously for profit, and quickly realized that was the driving force, not riding, maintaining, nor sharing of parts and info no matter how loudly they shouted that was why they are there. My 2¢, I'll move on now. 😁

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/271-2014-vfr800f2015-vfr800x-service-manual/

44 Teeth (YouTube channel) out of UK has a lot of sportbike content. Fagan was previously road test edit for Fast Bikes magazine, and both are routinely on press launches for new bikes. As long as you aren't offended by their occasional "pub banter" , they put out some great content.

Hi I got my vfr 800 2018 I bought this moto 2 months ago i just notice that chain is rusty so question about chain and sprocket replacement so I don't have manual to find all torque bolts,chain tension etc and can't find anywhere can someone help me with that I be really happy Thanks

My VFR 😃

ECU flash is always better than piggyback systems like rapid bike or power commander. The tuner has full control over IAP, TPS and ignition maps. Rapid bike Evo can only do adjustment on the TPS map and the racing variant can do TPS and ignition map. The IAP map is important as it controls the low load scenarios, which are hard to adjust properly trough the TPS map alone. Rapid bike's autotune is basically useless on my 6th gen. I've tried using it with stock o2 sensors and wideband o2 sensor add-on. I'm pretty sure the same goes for the 8th gen and any other bike. The algorithm isn't advanced enough. The differences in the fuel map for the akrapovic and sc project or any other straight through muffler of a similar length are very small and thus irrelevant. +/- 3% fuel trims are not worth the time and money. If the fuel map is developed properly and you're achieving the target AFR with one can you'll be in the safe range and within the power plateau of 12.5-13.5 AFR with the other can. Run to run variance is often bigger than the difference one can to another makes. If the tuners in your area are reputable do the ECU flash, set it up with the can you'll use most of the time. For occasional low dB needs put the akra on and don't worry about it.

Hello, this winter i will be adding lextek headers thus deleting my cat and aleready have sc project cone slip on. And i know i should do something about the fuel to air ratio and solving the lack of back pressure by re mapping the ecu or something else. And when i went into this rabbit hole i found two tune mechanics at my location that do ECU flash on a dyno and are able to install as an add on rapid bike module evo or race. Is there anyone with same bike who has it installed and has some expierence? My questions: - should i get just ecu flash or buy the Rapid bike too - is it worth the money - what i liked is that it should be able to auto tune, and because i have two slipp-ons one sc project and akrapovic which is much more silent. I plan on switching them when going into countries with stricter Db levels laws. - Is worth just for street riding and the occasional track day - what is the benefit over just ECU flash - does the EVO module have rev limiter abilities Thanks in advance for sharing any experience, i know there detailed thread about 5-6 gen. But couldnt find anything on newer 8th gen.

As long as you're moving faster than 35 MPH the stock radiators work fine. If you find yourself moving slower than that for an extended period of time perhaps re-think taking the bike. That said I have considered adding a small front mounted radiator in addition to the stock ones, but there's not a lot of room to work with up there. Many have swapped in a larger oil cooler. Makes sense to me since the oil travels to more critical parts, and VFRs are hard on oil due to all the gears.

May the road rise up to meet you in 2026! All is quiet, on New Year's Day....

Dump it, buy kawasaki zxr 400 and spend saved $$ and time on racetrack 🙂 Back to the topic 6th gen radiators are slightly bigger, you can try to tilt them more towards front and modify fairings for better airflow. Putting radiator close to exhaust as shown on the picture is bad idea, at least try to separate it more from exhaust (get curved radiator).

Hi to all. From many time i'workin on my project for a VFR 800 (5th gen) for track days (here i Italy i could even race in a category of Italiana Classic Championship). Now i'm looking for a solution for coooling. I need remove the two rads on side installing something on front (as usual). I think to install the radiators system of eight generation, moving the oil cooler maybe in front fairing. Is there someone ho have some pictures of VFR 8th gen without fairings, so to have an idea of dimensions? This is the actual state of my project, fixing the problem could help me to go on with work. Thank you to all,. Luigi.

Hi. If you made just a simple passage in ultrasonic washing machine, the special coat have no damages (i did it some time ago and i had not any kind of problem). I just suggest to reassembly all throttle body and balance it without try to reach a specified value of vacuum for all 4 cylinders. It's enough that you hear the engine running "round and smooth". The vacuum values are affected by many other factors (as valve clearance, for example). If all other components are not in perfect conditions it's almost impossible reach the vacuum value (theorically) indicated. Work on screws commanding the valvle util you see on vacuometer the all 4 cilinder working at same level. Any other work are unuseful and you risk to go crazy. If you have some difficult to reassembly the thottle body, somewhere in this forum you can download the Service Manual, where everything are explained.

I have a 2003 VFR 800 ABS (6TH Gen) that I want to sell. I'd prefer to post it on a site(s) other than Craigslist. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. General info about it: Silver 2003 VFR 800 w/ ABS and factory hard case saddle bags Factory passenger seat cover, Delkevic full exhaust system, K&N filter, Kaoko throttle lock RAM phone mount, battery tender and fender eliminator license plate mount .

I'm on ADVrider also, but it is WAY to active for me. A lot of chatter, nearly impossible to find questions/answers. Truly...forums suck.

ADVRider.com daily for the main page articles and then a few sub forums where my riding friends hang out. It's kind of a mess as far as organization but there is a lot of stuff there and not just adventure related.