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Somehow I've missed this thread. Good job so far. That blocky looking thing in the main harness just in front of your new R/R is a ground junction block. You should unwrap it, and make sure there's no corrosion going on in there.

Charging system, and suspension are the two best things you can do for a 5th gen. Everything else is icing on the cake.

I used to use ATF in the old damper rod forks on my ZX600. It worked fine. I use Maxima 7wt in the VFR forks because that's what Traxxion Dynamics provided with the cartridge kits. It works well too. I figure they might know a thing or two about suspension. I typically change the fork oil every 20K when I do my valve checks. Much easier to work on the front head with the forks out.

Universal Tractor Transmission Oil in everything? Just... why? What's the reasoning? How does it compare to other options you have tried?

Well done mate

Welcome DavidS! Fine looking 5th gen you have there! Per Skids .. definately highly recommend checking out your charging system... Also add a voltmeter up front to monitor what is going on. Cheerz and beerz

Ok, I kept bleeding the brakes and finally got all the air out. I repositioned the angle of the left caliper from where I had it at and it worked. The brakes have never been so good. Even when the bike was new.

Ok thanks I shall get it done although the brakes have performed without issue these last few days. I’ve just done 600 miles in 3 days and these are my views so far: - The bike handles far better than it has any right to. It changes direction as quickly as a naked, it’s pretty incredible really and it’s hard to believe it’s probably close to 250kg considering I had a full top box on. I did find it a touch soft at times especially on the rear but this also meant for a very comfy ride. - The engine lacks some bottom end grunt but really comes alive at 7k. Definitely not a slow bike and could keep up with most things if kept on the boil. - The gearbox is sweet, snicks between gears beautifully, no false neutrals and very easy to find neutral. - I found the the clutch very sensitive to even minute inputs, if I was pulling off and changed the clutch position even slightly it would jerk forward. Not sure if this is normal or if the clutch is slipping a little but there are no other signs of it slipping. - It’s a proper sports tourer and suited my needs perfectly this weekend. I’d say it’s more sporty than tourer and there’s definitely a bit of weight on my wrists. The standard screen was perfect for me, I’m 5ft 11.5” but I have very long legs so probably got the head position of someone that’s more like 5ft 8-9”. - Fuel consumption was very good, I worked out I averaged 49mpg and was getting close to 200 miles before needing to refuel. As the weather was nothing short of horrendous I’d expect it to drop a little in drier weather where I could push on more. I'm already considering what’s going to be on the agenda over winter. Firstly I think I’ll get the front calipers off and do a full rebuild of them. I’ll likely look at suspension refresh options, whether it be new OEM or aftermarket I’m not sure. It has an aftermarket end can but still has the original headers which are in remarkably good condition but I might look at replacing these too. All in all though the bike exceeded my expectations and I can’t wait to make it even better.

He recommended "disconnect battery for a minimum 4 hours and then start the bike with out touching the throttle letting it run until the fan comes on and then shut it off". Regards, Kent

In stock size you (110/90-16, 130/80-18) should find Bridgestone BT46, Pirelli SportDemon as Dunlop GT601 as matching pair. Bridgestone or Dunlop I would suggest

There is a plug and play 17" front rim, BUT its only 2,5 wide so tire selection is slim, even a bit better. It´s from a 1987-90 CBR600F1 Hurricane, it has orginaily a 110/80-17 front tire. A matching design rear is the 1988-89 Euro VFR750F RC24 rim as it use same design 17" wheels, the rear would be 3,5" wide as your current 18" so again stuck to slim rubber, 140/80-17 is correct size for the rim. I seen many put 110/70R17 tires on the Hurricane front rim, even done it myself, but the profile go bad and scetchy feeling leaning down is not good, so not recommended unless you just mostly ride straight roads. a thing also, the 86-87 VFR750 is not the fastest steering motorcycle I think, as I have the fork tubes 10mm up in the triples to get a steering behavior I like, and as a 110/80-17 is a hint bigger OD as a 110/80-16 and a 140/80-17 slightly smaller in OD than a 130/80-18, your steering geometry is going to get a bit slower

Was sabsteef's recommended reset just starting and running until fan comes on without touching the throttle, or something else?

Thats a sweet looking RC24 1986 you have been looking at! I own 2 1986 RC24, one Euro market, other is a North America version The RBW north america version will be orginal, sadly it suffers from a bad rear cylinder exhaust cam now, probably because of something blogging the oil flow.... The european that someone has painted red is going to have some uppgrades, I have retrofited 88/89 front turn signals on it but that needs some big holes drilled I have had before 2 RC24, a silverblue 1987 as white 86 On the 87 I had these indicators front that you still find on ebay You see I like the Japanesen market indicators to! And for knowlage to these RC24/26 you found the right man whit Captain 80´s!

don`t put on a 150/70 it will rob your power Bridgestone BT46 Dunlop GT601 Heidenau K65 Pirelli Sport Demon Metzeler Roadtec01/Lastertec Michelin Road Classic for rear only Not much offerings anymore

Apartly the upper taillight bolt been missing so why the fairing flyn away, the headligth will go next, big crack already and the tail light assembly is heavy, thats why the old plastic brakes. Plastic weld if you had the old part, support by melting a thin metal net on the cracks whit a soldering iron and the reinforce whit epoxy. But man you need a new rear tire also!

Just after getting the flash I was able to only ride it about 2 miles at a time but with that it made a big difference in the low RPM driving, the surging that was taking place was gone, I did have on the third ride out when I was able to get the bike up to temperature I started to get what appeared to be a misfire between 1500-3000 rpm, I thought it strange with the bike only having less then 8K miles on it, I talked with Sabsteef about it and he had me do a ECU reset which didn't resolve the issue, I then replaced the spark plugs with new OEM plugs and it resolved the misfire, what I found was the center electrode in one of the plugs had developed an open in the resistor and was showing infinite resistance, it was the resistor that failed and was causing the misfire. After replacing the bike runs like it should have from the factory, excellent drive-ability at low rpm and just pulls like a freight train all the way through the rpm band, I am just so impressed with the broad torque band this bike has, it just puts a smile on my face every time I get on it. Regards,

small update: new reg/rec from roadstercycle and a horn tried firing it but didn't quite manage before the battery died, going to let it charge and try again a few more times and then start troubleshooting if it still doesn't work.

Good to see you got it sorted. Glad I could help. Happy riding!

I did exactly as Presson describes; turn the nut around and refit, use a piece of wood and give the axle a few good whacks with a big hammer. Others have resorted to pulling swingarm and putting the assembly in a hydraulic press to shift the axle.

I looked at your photo and thought, "that can't be right". Turns out that it is, I checked a photo of my VTR1000 sprockets (about 75000km) and it looked pretty much the same as yours, so where the chain is riding is correct. Chain/guide wear will manifest as a small misalignment between the crank and the cam timing. With the clutch cover removed, replacing the chains and guides looks to be straightforward if you went down that path, and the parts aren't too costly.

i managed to fix, there was a break on the pcb earth track that wraps around speedo bulge/bump area, i soldered a wire direct to pcb tracks to bridge the fault( well basically that whole area). I also cleaned all screw contacts with emery paper and tooth brush and contact cleaner on dash connector block. All working correctly. Thanks for all your help it was very much appreciated

Finally some progress Fitment not perfect and perhaps not best option power wise but sure good looking. Have to do something to these, side stand hits the exhaust, probably from wear as play in the side stand

Just for clarity: you have been able to un-stake the big axle nut and remove it together with the conical spring washer underneath the nut? You're now stuck at the side collar which won't budge and is keeping the driven sprocket carrier firmly fixed to the axle? If that's correct, it sounds like corrosion between the collar and axle. Penetrating oil and a whack on the axle end suitably protected by putting the nut on backwards and a lump of wood having first removed the rear caliper. A large puller? But be very careful on the sprocket carrier. Possibly a little bit of heat? Others may have ideas borne out of experience....