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Hello thank you for answering my post! I hope you are able to give me the rest of measurements. As the ones that you gave me are very valuable! Kind regards

How to calculate gear inches? 1. Follow the instructions to calculate the gear ratio. 2. Measure in millimeters the thickness of your rear tire across its tread when inflated, Mehrwertsteuer Rechner and select this figure in the selector labeled tire thickness. 3. Then do the same with the diameter of your rim up to its bead for the picker labeled rim diameter. If you're measuring in inches, please refer to our page detailing how to convert tire sizes to the international standard (ISO 5775). How to calculate development meters? 1. Follow the same approach as for calculating gear inches with tire and rim diameters measured in millimeters. Sometimes, a marking can also be discovered printed on the sidewall of the tire.

A bicycle gearing calculator helps calculate the relationship between the chainring and the rear cog, impacting how effortlessly you can pedal and how far your bike travels with each rotation. Key calculations involve gear ratio, gear inches, and gain ratio, all of which help riders adjust their bike's performance for diverse terrains and riding styles.

As Terry said, there are special flasher units for LED bulbs but you need the bulbs front and rear for them to flash at the correct rate. If keeping normal "as they came" 25W? bulbs then the normal flasher unit should be flashing at the correct rate. The correct bulbs from the factory should not overload the electrical system. B.T.W. have you ever tried to touch a flasher or Brake light bulb after it has been on for 30 seconds? burnt finger comes to mind. They will produce more heat than a resistor.

Awesome! Hee, hee

ah, i see. apologies for my hasty conclusion.

I used silicone grease on the insulator boots on mine after I did the thermostat, and they dropped into place with just "firm downwards pressure" i.e. me leaning on them. Maybe some heat from a hair dryer to soften yours up a bit more? I did a Dumb Thing ( my specialty) and managed to trap a hose in the front right throttle mechanism so they couldn't freely close, so I had to pop them off again to sort that, and then I had some weird idle/vacuum issues for a bit, difficult to synchronise and the idle rose, so I don't think I initally had a great boot seal but a decent ride fixed that (no tools required aside from me). Those blue vacuum hoses have got to be worth another 5 bhp, easy.

went to clean and paint the exhaust and was met with an unfortunate surprise. in the interest of keeping things low-buck...butchery ensued. looks good from my house! in all seriousness, i plan to get the stainless delkevic headers when budget allows. but today is not that day.

The PCV cap thing is just temporary to keep junk out while I work on the bike. I have rubbed oil on the insulators... mine are being stubborn... As mentioned RF is fully down, I did feel it "pop" into place... 3 more to go..

make sure the couplers are fully seated on the engine. when i was putting the throttles back on mine i had to make sure they were all 100% down--i did what you did and used a block and a mallet--but after that the throttles pretty much popped into place. silicone spray would also help. also i see your PCV valve is capped. unlike PAIR, that actually serves a pretty important purpose by keeping crankcase pressure down. i'd hook it back up or at least stick a cone filter over it.

Back at this stuff, been waiting on some backorder parts, (still)... but anyhoo... (Jeez this job is getting long in the tooth..) Powder coated wheels and calipers..... Wasnt going to do it, but the while I'm at it syndrome is strong in this one.. (I blame Ughandi.. j/k) Working on pistons... long ago, I stumbled into discovering Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish works great on cleaning up pistons... Jumping around a bit... Throttle bodys with the 3.5mm silicone vac hoses... .. Tried the 8mm but decided to skip, the tight bends just werent gonna work. Ok on this one, need your tips, suggestions, I am struggling to get the TBs to fully seat down. Front right is fully down, front left is about 75%, rears are about 50%. Been using a wood block on top of the TBs and a larger rubber mallet to try to set things home... Stubborn bastards... waht do you suggest? Huge thanks in advance... The journey continues..

I've seen them on track bikes for years, but I usually just look down at the MPH/RPM...when they're aligned during normal riding, it is 4th gear on every bike I've ever owned. Little off, 3rd or 5th, depending on which way. No way to not know you're in 1st, 2nd, or 6th...at least for me.

I bet you feel better for having checked though, right? Just be thankful you don't have a VTEC (ask me how I know...) You can do the front head without moving the radiators or airbox but you do feel like you are doing gynaecology... I paint-marked the gears so I could drop them back into the exact correct position. That darned oil-cooler bracket is a knuckle-skinner. At around 85000km, two front intakes were below the minimum on mine, no idea how long since a previous check.

This was the bike I dreamed of as a kid. I mentioned elsewhere I had a picture of it in my locker. After years of checking Marketplqcr to see what might be out there, I finally found one I could afford to play on. My dream is to do a restore and then keep it until I die. She’s a bit of a mess right now, but she’s mine…finally!

I drooled over those (the bike, not the girl) in the magazines and then when my local dealer got the first one, I had to buy it. Had a great run for about 6 months until I was spotted by The Man doing an ill-advised velocity on a motorway offramp and a suburban pursuit followed, all at about 2am. I managed to give them (2 cars and a bike) the slip and was slightly amused when they descended on a house one street over from my parents' home and woke them all up; to be fair, I had seen the occupants chased home twice during daylight so they had "form". I sold the 500 a few days later, much too visible/rare, changed my riding gear, and bought something faster...I am much older and wiser now (and if you believe that, I have a bridge I can sell you).

It was the ‘84 500. This was the particular picture I had in my locker, right next to a picture of Heather Thomas and a beautiful girl from the cover of a Myrtle Beach area tourist booklet called “the Strand”.

The quick fix for hyperflash with LEDs is to just replace the flasher unit. I have used cheapo 2-wire LED flasher units with no problems in the past, just look for a one with a plug that is similar to the stock relay fitting. Should then be plug and play.

Thanks @fixit58. I plan on sending them back since they don't work. There is nothing really wrong with OEM bulbs... the only reason I would like to go with LEDs is that it's less stress on the electrical system and they bulbs are brighter. Are you saying the only way to fix this issue is to introduce the inline resistor units? If so, I will go back to just OE bulbs as I don't like the heat generated by those resistors.

Good for you. So which year/version was on your locker? That is a mash-up.

I dreamed about this bike when I was a kid. I had a picture of one in my locker - specifically the one from Honda’s sales brochure. i finally found one I could afford. It’s a fixer upper for sure - lots of work to do, it I’m very happy to finally own the bike of my dreams. I hope to get it running and restored to as close as stock as possible. I have no illusions that this will be easy, especiallly with some significant financial constraints. If I can make that happen, I will keep it forever. i expect to be badly in need of technical advice and support, and hope this is the right place. I’m no wrench, but am willing and eager to learn. if anyone has a line on parts for these beauties, let me know! I am in the Southern/Central Ontario area.

Not had an aftermarket one until this VFR. My FJR1300 has it stock. Will say that after riding the VFR with the gear indicator, I'll be adding to any bike that doesn't have one. Handy device for sure to keep me checking for 7th gear.

Folks, I just finished checking the valve lash on my 98 with 52,000 miles. I didn't have to swap out any shim, but here are my lessons learned for the check itself. 1. Don't do it. My valves were all in spec after 52,000 miles. Hard miles. Felony speeding miles. Multiple excursions to the redline at full throttle every ride, for years on end. If you have a dedicated track bike you may need to do valve checks. Short of that, I'd skip it. 2. If you simply cannot do that, check only the rear cylinders. They are much easier to reach. You can leave the airbox in place. In fact you can leave the gas tank connectors attached and just move the tank out of the way. If the rear valves are in spec, skip the fronts and reassemble the bike. 3. If you simply can't do that, the fronts require some more digging. First, the bottom of the air box must come off. It has eleven (11!) hose connections and three electrical connections. Figure out a way to keep track of all of them. The radiators, oil cooler, and oil cooler bracket must be moved out of the way. It was pretty easy to drain the coolant and disconnect the radiators, so just get on with it. The oil cooler and bracket come off easily. The valves themselves are actually easy to reach (easier than the rears) once all the stuff is out of the way. 4. When reassembling, install the airbox bottom BEFORE you install the roil cooler and radiators. It's damn near impossible to get the hoses at the front of the box connected with those things in the way. That's all I had. It wasn't too bad. Feel free to ask questions.

The 2 flasher units you mentioned in the links are HYPERFLASH ones. You might need particular flasher units for LED's if you want to go led bulbs that is and you would be best to cxhange them all to do that. what is wrong with the OE bulbs/flasher unit? Remember if you are in an MOT required country. the flashers have to flash at a certain speed to pass.

Thanks for the reply, I'm actually now wondering if I should just ride the bike and get used to it without one, just back into biking after 20 odd years thought it might make things easier but never had one on any other bike.

Have to say I'd love to restore something like that, but that's probably to do with the fact I've never tackled anything like that before and the thought of making a silk purse out of a sows ear is more like the nightmare more experienced people have described as apposed to the dream I imagine. However I'd love to see your progress should you endeavour to go ahead with your project. 👍👍