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dawson

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dawson last won the day on May 5 2013

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About dawson

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  • Location
    Nova Scotia, CA
  • In My Garage:
    2009 VFR800A (gone to someone with time to ride)
    1998 VTR1000F (long term project...)

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  1. I had problems like that too, went with a Power Commander V with AutoTune after doing a starter valve synch, PAIR disable, etc. It helped but wasn't a complete solution. Starter valves made a big difference but it was still snatchy. My problem was that the hose clamps on the throttle body boots weren't tightened down, so the MAP sensor got a bad reading and enriched the mixture way too high. I was getting about 190 km to a tank. Tightened those up, put everything back to stock and it ran great. Mileage went up to almost 300 km per tank.
  2. http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-scotia/cabot-trail-road-construction-1.3532056 Saw this on the news today, might be handy for planning if you can find some more details.
  3. Can't you download the 101-003 map to your power commander, then upload the values using the Save As command with a different name? Should give you a new file containing all the same values as the original.
  4. Came across this when I was clearing out my computer. I built it as an exercise in using Excel a few years back, but someone here may find a use for it if you don't already have one. It also clearly demonstrates that the easiest way to go faster is to have gauges in kilometres. Way bigger numbers! gearing.xls
  5. The link that CCRC46 posted has a button that opens the user manual for the YouTune. The module has three buttons on it, Mode, + and -. Pressing the - button for 2 seconds when it's in rpm mode will hold the RPM at its current value. Once activated, + and - will adjust the RPM up and down in 100 rpm increments. RPM hold is cancelled by pressing Mode, holding - for two seconds or opening the throttle wide open. Oddly, it says the last option is not for bikes with ride-by-wire. Note that this device regulates rpm, not speed, making it more like a throttle lock than a true closed loop cruise control. However, chances are your main reason for purchasing a RB module is tuning rather than cruise control, so it's a nice extra.
  6. Hey Rush, Grum cleared it up. Was talking about the ECT sensor. Just wanted to point out that the dash display may not be an accurate representation of what the ECU is seeing.
  7. I know very little about the 1200 so take this with a large grain of salt... On the VTEC, which is not the bike you're riding, the temperature sensor has two outputs, one for the dash display and one for the ECU. If your bike has a similar setup, it's possible that your dash gauge is fine but your ECU thinks the motor is cold. My terrible fuel economy was caused by a vacuum leak.
  8. Might take you up on it if I get back to Europe someday. ☺
  9. Nice find! It was very obliging of it to fail conclusively too, intermittent faults suck.
  10. Did you have 12 V in both locations on the relay (Blue/White wire and Black/Red wire)? It'll need both of those to switch the lamps on.
  11. The manual describes relays strangely in a couple of spots, PAIR being an example of poor wording. That first sentence fits the physical connexion if you add a semi-colon. "There should be no continuity; only when the 12V battery is connected" The second sentence contradicts this though. Electrically, it makes more sense to have things on the normally open contacts so they come on when the circuit is energised. The wiring diagram shows both relays as being normally open, for what that's worth. It looks like the high beams get their power from the low beam circuit, that may help narrow things down. There's a connector after the point they split, could be worth looking at?
  12. Thanks for the clarifications CR. You're correct in that the O2 sensors are narrowband and the system goes open loop under throttle and development. However, when they're operating at idle and cruise, they build a short term trim that is then applied to the entire map, regardless of open or closed loop operation. This is how they can richen the mixture across the board. Hope that fixes my contribution to the misinformation...
  13. Sounds like you're still running the O2 sensors so you should be fine. If it has their feedback, the ECU can adjust the fuelling as necessary, and it's capable of richening the mixture significantly. If it revs up to redline fast without pulling, you may be lean. If you're really concerned and there's a dyno around, they should be able to measure your tailpipe emissions and tell you what's going on. When you unplug the connector to your PAIR valve it stays in the open position all the time and dumps fresh air into the exhaust. That's the probable cause of your popping. This will also create a false lean at the pipe and O2 sensors,so the ECU will react by richening things up. My feeling is that you're fine, but it's a lot easier to say that from this side of the computer. :o)
  14. Yeah, it's not clear there. Think I had to sort them by type, count them, then count the ones in the picture to figure it out. Think the long ones go in the low positions on the front edge, the short ones go in the top edge near the tank and the ones with shoulders are for the sides. The front diffuser might take four short ones? Sorry I'm not more exact, sold my 6th gen last fall.
  15. Think the owner's manual has a diagram showing which bolts go where. It's in the section about removing the fairings. Lists them as A,B and C types, but that's easy to figure out from the number of each.
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