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Well, turns out that whatever I have done with the Gold Valves simply does not work. They are not generating any meaningful compression damping when riding, and as a result the fork dives at an alarming rate when I tap the brakes hard, which causes the tyre to skip and engage the ABS. Not dangerous, but far from ideal. So I pulled the forks apart (again) and have refitted the stock compression valves. I had a decent 300km ride on Saturday and the fork is itself behaving better on bumps and especially on the brakes. I then took my 5th gen out for a ride around the neighbourhood (it is not technically road-registered but that is only a problem if I get caught...) and the difference in suspension feel is stark; to be fair, the 5th gen has a full Racetech set up front and a Nitron R3 shock, but it reminded me how much better the 1200 could be if I can get it right. I have contacted Jamie Daugherty as he has previously offered to sell me valve parts for the 1200, and I think I need some expert input at this point. I'm still waiting on the Veridian cruise control to arrive, it has left Canada and I don't think it was going via the Strait of Hormuz so should be with me soon (I hope). Once that is in hand I will strip the bike and fit the CC and the PAIR blanks. I stalled out on the lower pegs, no issues fitting the parts and the drop looks useful, but the brake pedal is already set to the lowest height possible with the stock pegs and unless I pull the locknut out of the adjuster, won't go much lower. I will consider my options on that one.

According to Honda service manual: nothing mentioned on lubrication. According to Haynes: just clean and dry for mounting plate and tank surfaces. Congrats on your new bike and welcome to the forum.

TLDR: should I be putting some type of grease/lubricant on the fuel pump gasket and fuel gauge sensor O-Ring? if so, any recommendations on a certain type of lube? Hi all! I just bought a 1998 VFR800 Fi that had been sitting in the guys garage for years... I noticed rust in the tank and decided to take it off an clean the rust out.. I removed the Fuel pump and gauge sensor float. I then replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump sock... I bought a new gasket for the fuel pump assembly. my question is, should I be putting some type of grease/lubricant on the fuel pump gasket and fuel gauge sensor O-Ring? When I took them apart, there seemed to be some residual grease around each of them. If I am supposed to grease/lube it, any recommendations on a certain type of lube? thanks for reading!

I thought you were joking, I didn't realize that you were really asking that. And that you are gonna try and limp it to your next place. If so, yes, move those components to a different spot and scuff everything up a bit. You can't do anymore damage than what has already happened. I'm not very optimistic after hearing about (and seeing) what else you found. Stay off any main roads that don't have places to pull over if you get out of the driveway.

Well Cap I did sent a more clarity Pic of the disc layed out on the table ☝🏽 where you saw em color marked. I didn't realize there was still a steel plate and friction pad baked onto the basket and upon removing it was very thin smooth padding 1 side and completely gone on the other. Is there anything I can do like put a better pad into the inner hub as all disk are the same on 2000 models just to get it 3 miles out?

Not the best pic, but it looks knackered.

No amount of emery cloth can patch that up now can it Captain?

I've had those Levers put on by a shop out NJ riding fine since 2020

Yepp the 1 friction pad was completely smoked on 1 side daaamn near glued to the basket. I had to use a mini propane torch to heat it up a tad to remove but I'm positive this is causing the slippage now

And while you're at it, "McGyver" a mudflap?

Third and fourth gens are almost the same. Dead easy to remove the swing arm once the shock and exhaust are out of the way. The swing arm weighs nothing--the rear hub and axle are the heavy part! Ciao, JZH

I see an aftermarket clutch lever. They are often not very good replicas of what they are supposed to be as far as action and fitment. Make sure that when that clutch lever is installed, it is not pushing the master cylinder piston in to be able to get the pivot bolt in place. Which could be applying some pressure and starting to push the clutch pack apart without your hand doing anything yet. Stock components can make contact and maybe a very little more, but that one could be doing more.

Seem to engage fine 20260324_133254.mp4

Agreed. But that clutch looks like shit and has been slipping and getting hot. And I can count on 0 hands the nember of times I ran into a failing clutch hydraulic system on a VFR that kept the clutch pack separated and caused slipping. Not saying its impossible, but that explanation sometimes comes up and is never the actual problem. Assembled wrong, sure. But going from a working system to not allowing the clutch pack to compress? Not so much. But again, not impossible, it is just usually loss of lever pressure and bleed. Not the opposite. You can simply reassemble the clutch and see if the final pressure plate is allowed to fully seat. These situations are so hard because there has to be a certain level of assumptions to get past "you did it wrong". Plus he rode the bike without issues, for a while it seems, and then parked it. To then have a clutch slip when taken out of storage. Maybe the clutch took a shitte-loade of abuse during the previous issues (which it appears to have) and was on the verge of saying, enough is enough. In any case, if I saw a clutch that looked like that, it would be getting replaced. Might not be THE issue, but it is AN issue.

Think all I did was put a block of wood and a small automotive type jack under it to take the weight off the pivot. Don't remember it being all that difficult to remove. Do remember it was a bit fidgety to line up on the re-install. The small jack was again put to use.

So, Did you have to twist the arm after removing bolts and tube etc or was it a straight lift out? I have the shock off already along with the under tray as I am doing the fireblade shock mod on this one.

I can count on 0 hands how many times a high mileage 5th gen clutch no grabby-grab. I see "worked on hydraulics then problem". Sure something in that process didn't allow clutch pack push rod NOT to return full extension to left side of bike when lever relaxed? That would effectively keep clutch pack in the "friction zone". You give it the beans in a scenario like that you could easily smoke plates and "feel like in neutral".

Wicked small Garage. Almost more motorcycles than anyone really needs. Almost. 😁

Cool. Just covering the bases. Clutch

Here is my sprockets I haven't taken em off as all looks intact

Shop kinda looks like you're curing motorcycle parts...

Some progress: Reprogrammed the RapidBike Racing 'ECU' from VFR800 6th gen to 5th gen 'in bench mode' (so, only connected to USB cable / adapter), which is possible when you have the full license of 'Rapid Bike Master'. Received the Sumitomo connector stuff to elon(musk)gate the cable to/from the crankshaft sensor: Found a way to elongate the cable on the 'ECU' end to allow placement on right side of rear seat subframe (behind the tupperware): Shopping list: MX23A34XF1, MX23A34NF1, MX23A34SF1, M23S05K351 and/or M23S05K4F1 (JAE Electronics). Will require a small/simple layout custom circuit board, but no worries. Regarding the 6th gen throttling body suggestion: according to this information the swap would be far from straight and I'll give the 4 hole CBR929RR injectors a shot.

OK. Clutch would be my move with the info I have.

No. Had mine off a few years back. Did not need to remove the headers, just the muffler obviously. Added a photo that I found showing the rear header still on and the swingarm removed. I eventually removed the shock and serviced the dogbone, then lifted the rear with a hoist and removed the centerstand for service also. It was a while I'm in there kind of week.

They look fine the bike sat for half its life as the guy who sold it to me for 1k knew it had existing problems like the 1 sensor I fix he said that cause him to become a paraplegic it got stuck full throttle on em and sent him flying into a street light pole. Nonetheless I already have everything but the clutch kit