All Activity

One of my 86 has about the same mileage (58,600 miles). Runs perfect still, and is actually one of my quietest, smoothest engines. Burns zero oil, pulls strong, no puffs on start up or decel. I am friends with two people that have put WELL over 100,000 miles (not easy miles) on their 86/87 VFRs. No major mechanical issues. Charging system upgrades and the usual consumables. That engine gives really nice aural and tactile feedback. A little raw, in a good way.

If that bike was in my area, I would likely have bought it. Go for it. It's a great bike, and apparently a pretty nice example of one and has some nice additions. You gotta put value on the racks and bags.

Mine was also doing the clack thing. Sounds like opening a tin can. One day I thought "enough!" I plugged the vacuum line going to the flapper valve and physically ripped out the plastic valve door thing out of the inlet on the airbox. And to top it off, I can't stand parts that no longer have a function on the bike, so I twisted off that gold color vacuum actuator (Honda calls it a diaphragm, air control valve) and riveted a aluminum plate on the open hole on the top of the airbox, just to make it pretty. No more tin can "clack clack!" Seems to idle smoother too.

That's a great paint scheme, the only defect I see (aside from the key marks on the upper triple) is a missing rubber on the gearshift. The stock grab rail is not present but I assume this can't coexist with the Givi rack; would be good to have this to hand however, as well as the rear seat cover if it exists. All the fasteners look like original parts which is a good sign that a bodger has not been at work.

I will look there too. Just to reiterate the question, do I need to splice the fuel line to feed both sets of carbs?

I recall that flapper is open in neutral or when in gear and above 5500rpm. Otherwise it is held closed...unless the clutch switch is activated. I thought I had some sort of high voltage electrical arcing going on based on the sound, but what I heard was the flapper oscillating due to a dirty clutch switch while sitting at the lights in first.

mouse urine in an airbox is highly corrosive and can destroy metal. a this is what i shook out from a vfr muffler that sat in a shed for too long

Mice decided to nest in the airbox on my 1999. What a mess under the cover! Where do they get all that stuff, and why do they carry it up the tires, wheels and frame to build a cozy home in the airbox? (Sorry, I was too miffed to take pictures of the fluff) I cleaned the airbox with soapy water and a sponge (Careful with those throttle bodies) blew off the filter element and put it back together. Today drove the 44 miles one way to the Honda dealer where I had ordered a replacement filter. (Nice mountain roads, It was not a chore 😉 On the way out and back, when slowed while passing through the several small towns on the route, I noted a new and peculiar soft "clack" when I would pull or release the clutch. BUT, the sound was only noticed when the transmission was IN GEAR. Sitting still, with the bike in neutral, there was no clack! I listened very carefully while moving slowly, pulling and releasing the clutch lever. I determined that the clack noise was coming from that vacuum operated flapper valve in the top cover of the air box. Something I did while cleaning it has allowed the moving parts some extra bit of umph that now it makes an audible sound when opening and closing. I've had the bike since new, and it's never done this before! The vacuum actuator must be under the control of the ECU, andthe flapp does what it does (opens or closes) under a set of conditions that includes clutch handle position or fluid pressure status. Whatever, it all seems to be functioning. I put a small tab of fabric tape under the flapper to try to cushion the opening clap. It's not like the sound is annoying or anything. I do know there are multiple threads and comments regarding the utility and performance aspects of this little induction tuning "feature". I could care less, I try to stay up on how the bike is working, and this "new sound got me for a bit. The new filter is in now, I'll ride again tomorrow. Just thought to add a little trivial traffic to the forum. Cheers

I sincerely wish you good luck on your project. You will probably find people more familiar with that particular flavor of V4 over here... https://v4musclebike.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=4 Have a great weekend.

Yes I acknowledge that mistake. Thanks for the gifs.

Thanks Goldcrown44. It's going to be about a year before I have room in the garage for one. I have to downsize some of my fleet. 😄

Rereading all this more carefully, I see that Terry clearly marked the two plastic tubes that connect the carbs two the fuel supply, one which I have pictured above. What I think I'll do now is to split the fuel line inbound to feed those two (unless you all disagree), put the screws back in the plenum that I took out, and try to start the bike. I assume I will have other, more serious carb issues and then I will remove them, which sounds like a big job, but I was looking for a project. drGian

Yes, I was trying to do this with the carbs still in but I'm pushing pause for a second to ask a question. I believe I found my issue, or at least the fuel leaking issue. I bought this bike from a kid who didn't know anything about it and I don't know when is the last time it ran. There is a fuel line coming from the fuel pump that went straight into the fuel intake port that appears to feed the top two carbs. This had a hose clamp on it, but it was tightened way up from the nipple and I believe the fuel was leaking from there. What I don't understand is that there is another fuel intake port pictured below that looks to me like it would feed the bottom two carbs with nothing attached to it. The question is, does the fuel line from the fuel pump split into two, one that feeds the top and the other the feeds the bottom cylinders? I've been looking for pics or vids or diagrams and no luck yet. It would be weird if this guy sold it to me like that, but I've seen weirder. Thanks.

I have a 2012 DCT with less than 7k (just got it last Summer), and if you find one with old tires on it, it is going to feel quite heavy and sluggish in slower rolls and turns. Once I put new shoes on her (Dunlap RoadSmart IV), it was a night and day difference... to me it felt almost as light as my former 2014 VFR800. Furthermore, I highly encourage you to find one... it is an absolute dream to ride! It's very different having DCT and like Rhonda said, I find myself using manual mode with the paddle shifters along with Sport/Auto mode more than anything. If while in normal Drive mode, one can still manually downshift which is nice when you want to engine brake instead of using the brakes.

Didnt realize that Honda was still manufacturing the Crossrunner. That's an 800 right? Post up some photos when you get it home.

So far, yes the carbs are on the bike. From what I could gather on you tube that was how to do it. Can/should I get the carbs and intake manifold out of the bike and then separate them? If that's the procedure do I just disconnect the fuel line inbound and loosen the clamps holding the carbs in and pull them out?

I've been really impressed by the positive reviews and comments by members regarding the Crossrunner so I started looking and after 10 minutes found this example. 2021, with just 476 miles! I collect it in a couple of weeks and I guess I'll be doing the first service myself then 😁

Are you doing this with the carbs still in the bike?

Well I said I'd wait until next week to dig into it but you guys know how that goes. I can see one of the intake ports on the carb that I can see from the left side has no hose on it, so I suspect that's at least part of the problem. But anyway, I need to get to those carbs. I got the air intake off and I'm working on the intake manifold now. A bunch of screws holding that onto the carbs and amazingly I was able to get all but one of them off. You can see it in the pic. I can't get a screwdriver on it and I certainly can't get an impact driver on it. My question is, do I need to remove the radiator for this job, will that give me access to that screw? I'm already loving the 4 carbs crammed into this frame lol.

That's my bike (or was)! Thanks for the memory Terry. Couldn't afford the new '86 so purchased a new but leftover VF700 tariff bike. The start of a long relationship with Honda V4's, owned that bike for 16 years. Apologies for going slightly off topic. Best wishes on your new project DrGian, you're going to love that motor once you get it running right. Please keep posting your project.

Ok, cool. You might poke around, might be able to find a downloadable PDF version on the webs. You could also download a VF700F version off this site just for general reference, but many small details will be different. The biggest thing is keep the components for each carb separate and controlled. Honda liked doing different jets, jet holders and diaphragm springs for front and rear cylinders on the Magna and Saber.

Perfect, thanks for the details and the repeated details lol. I had a '72 CB 750 for many years and I didn't love dealing with 4 carbs but it looks like I'm back in the same situation. One thing I like about the Harley I have is the single carb but I imagine the performance is much better with one per cylinder. I'll be tearing into this next week and I'll order a Honda service manual. I'll report back! drGian

Wow... we went from a VFR to a Magna really fast. The V65 Magna was the first "FAST" bike I rode. It was fucking fast. Terry is likely correct. The fuel cross over tube o-rings are a very common culprit. Be sure to work with a Service Manual, preferably the Genuine Honda version. You can crack the tubes themselves by removing the carbs incorrectly (as Terry also correctly pointed out). They stay as a unit attached to the plenum when removing. I'm just being a Parrot apparently... Polly says good luck!