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Mount em. Park it outside, bike on side stand, bars a little to the right. Walk a bit away and take a look. Sip that beer. I think they are trick and your bike is not stock.

Man Cave? No. Man hangar.

^^^^^Bro, you make me laugh...

The front wheel has two discs mate. Why not have one of each?

Typical Honda, a core set of parts go across a hundred bikes....

One of those... I wasnt really looking, but this one hit me in the face... Off the Valk forum, I damn near stole these rotors.... (Valkyrie and VFR rotors are dimensionally identical) Braking Brand (Brembo owned, subsidiary) decent shape.... Now to decide whether to use or not.... This one.? Or this one ..OEM? AIIIIEEEEE! 🤪Gonna have to kill quite a few IPAs and maybe some Stouts to decide this one.... 😲 Cheez and beerz (hic)

Partzilla's website allows you to look up parts and then see which other models they fit. The complete clutch slave is common to the CBR1100XX, VTR1000F, RC51. The slave piston is common to 1500 Goldwings from 89, ST1100. The water pump is shared with the CBR900RR. I found out (in desperation) that the throttle tube is the same piece on my 99 VFR800 and my '15 VFR1200, but the parts manuals don't show that due to the difference in grip design that can be model specific. Paint colours cause the same apparent incompatibility.

My experience with stanchions like that is if your fingernail catches on it it will take out a seal, but fine polishing will make some pretty large pits acceptable. As mentioned use protection, and lube when installing the seals over the top of the tube. I use Ziplock bags or multiple layers of plastic wrap whichever is handy. Packing the space between the oil, and dust seals with grease will also help as any debris that gets past the dust seal gets suspended in the grease.

I suspect with some strategic digging you could find many more parts common to Hondas in general. Why reinvent the wheel? The Japanese are pretty crafty that way.

Good info!

Not a sixth gen, but I stumbled across some shared parts with the VTX1800. The slave cylinder for the monster twin and the fifth gen appear to be the same other than a coat of black paint and price difference (VFR one is pricier). The slave on my 1800 started weeping, and I was all set for a soft parts rebuild but there's some hard crud in the piston bore that needs delicate removal. The 1800 slave cylinder looked really familiar, and I remembered I have a stock of VFR critical spares and pulled a new slave assembly and piston off the shelf. Everything looked identical down to the casting and bolt pattern so I threw it on the VTX where it's been for the last 30K miles. This means when I get off my duff and toss the VTX assembly in a parts cleaner and replace the soft bits it'll go on a shelf. If I need it for the VFR I'll grab a can of Rustoleum black enamel and give it a coat. If you look at the price difference between the two that's one expensive Honda paint job for the black finish. No concern for the black cylinder installed on the VTX cause all that crap is covered by decorative chrome side cover.

Thanks Mike; the divots aren't really any different to a rock dent and I've dealt with those before without leaks so I was disappointed with this outcome. I'm trying to avoid spending too much more money on Earl, as far as I know this is the last mechanical issue that I need to deal with (famous last words...).

I would give it one more go with a new seal knowing that you're not installing/removing it multiple times over the top of the tube and being extra careful by wrapping the lip and groove. Then you will know for sure if you have to source another tube. and it might buy you more time as it may not leak as bad if it starts to leave a ring.

I spent a bit of time on my leaky fork last night. As received the bike had spent 3 years outdoors, maybe somewhere coastal based on the corrosion. On the hidden inside of the left stanchion (behind the mudguard and adjacent to the disc) there was a decent amount of corrosion; the right leg, and the exposed part of the left leg were not near as bad and my assumption is that salt spray was being washed off by periodic rain in those areas. As I was doing the rebuild I carefully filed off any protrusions and then polished further with 400-grit emery paper which has left no "lips" that can catch on the seal but there are a handful of divots that you can just catch a fingernail in at the right angle. The little black specks on the chrome above the obvious oily line are all that is visible of these divots. I was hoping to fill these with metal epoxy, but after application and then sanding back the divots are still there, maybe just too small/shallow to have enough adherence to the putty. So I have given everything another good emery paper rub down, and will hope for a better result with a new seal. I am not ruling out that I may have caused some damage to the last seal when I pushed that over the bushing groove as I know I did that a few times as I was figuring the fork out, so I will take extra care (and wrap the sharp parts in insulation tape) when I fit the new seal. Plans B and C are to buy a used fork (there is a local breaker that has a decent pair for US$320) or I can get a new part ex Webike for a little less money, or there are replacement tubes on eBay for about US$230 (but that will require disassembly of the axle/brake mount from the old tube, which looks a bit challenging). At this point I am inclinded to reassembly with the old part with new seal, and some finger crossing.

With a big engine, torque is where it is at, and it gives you the ability to be a bit lazy with gear changes. My 6th gen 800 certainly likes to be kept "on the boil" above 7k which is fun when you are in the mood but it can feel a little flat otherwise. I also have a Yamaha MT-10 and love the character and punch (and a great riding position) but I'm not brave enough to give it full throttle as you are perched on top like an organic speed brake! I did get it remapped which only improved the low end and throttle response, and it is a blast to ride on twisty roads and makes the best sounds (this side of a V4) as long as you don't mind (or care about) the Yamaha "tick". I think Yamaha are missing a sales opportunity with the MT-10 as it just a larger tank, hard luggage mounts and a half fairing away from sport-touring heaven, but it might canabalise sales from the Tracer 9. Personally I think the two engines give two distinct characters.

And the bill for heating that place in winter came in.....

Same torque, less power but the torque curve is reprofiled for more lower down. Red line is around 9k rpm (I'd have to go and check for an accurate figure) but yr right, I don't recall ever finding a road long enough (or balls big enough) to redline the 1200F so it's all a bit academic.

I don't think I have revved my 1200 past 8000rpm yet and probably seldom will. Is the power on the X notably toned down at the lower end of the range?

True to that point on the range of adjustability options, but thankfully in my use case the bar angles are comfortable to me, just wanted the OEM bronze parts as I think it looks nice against the white paint, while making the riding position slightly more relaxed.

Gained around an inch of lift and roughly 0.25 - 0.50 inch set back. Can definitely notice the difference sitting on the bike though my picture taking skills lack on the ability to show it.

You have taken away one very handy means of dialing in ergonomics for an individual, the ability to rotate the bars but still stay in the usable range without fouling the tank or upper cowl. If it's perfect for you now, that's awesome though! Funny, every time I look at the 2014+ VFR800 I immediately think about swapping in the more traditional upper clamp and bars. Every single one of my VFRs has the limiting lug removed from the bars so I can dial in the bar angles for my riding position.

Just curious... what do you gain by doing that? The riding position looks identical...

Struggled to find much relevant info on it, so I did it anyway. Only things of "issue" were the bars needing new holes drilled for the 6th gen switchgear, and a longer clutch line as it was about an inch too short for my liking. It was a bit tight, and seemed to stretch a little at full right lock. For reference, bike is an 06 ABS model so clutch hose routing was a bit scuffed compared to non-abs versions so it was already seemingly a bit shorter due to that.

One of the reasons I bought the 'X' is for touring. My VFR1200F is a fantastically sorted motorcycle. Upgraded suspension, a monster of an engine, tuned, gorgeous exhaust, world-stopping brakes etc etc but the riding position is becoming too difficult for my advancing years even though I have fitted Helibars, it is still not easy to spend a day in the saddle so the 'X' was the obvious choice as a replacement. I know the power and rev limit has been reduced but it will still make a fabulous tourer especially with the bigger fuel tank.

Plenty of throttle bodies don't have any kind of coating on the trailing edge, seems to be a Honda thing, it's bound to come off at some point, seems the coating is Honda's attempt to minimise butterfly/bore wear, never known anyone replace it after it's come adrift, personally I'd leave butterflies clean & fuel test em, see if they'll hold fuel which will confirm if stop screw needs a tweak, don't be afraid to move it if necessary, it's only a throttle stop screw, butterflies only allow air thru not fuel. Bare in mind everything that moves wears, now coatings missing, factory set throttle stop won't likely be set as it once was, stop screw may need a readjust to compensate.