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More of the same. I really need to take a break from this bike. it is well and trully doing my head in. Photos attached , I hope. slave battery volts with bike running but not attached to bike. only through stator and R/R. 14.72V. that is with a 100W bulb clipped onto the slave battery. VFR's own battery surface volts =12.43v. VFR running with NO headlamps 13.65. VFR running with headlamps connected=, 12.5v. Damn, photos wont upload.

That's exactly the key: the "smiles-per-gallon" ratio 🙂 I'm going to take possession of the non-VFR section 😎

Ride what you like, like what you ride Hope it treats you well and gives you many smiles. And start a thread in the non-VFR section, I'd like to see how you modify it

Hi fixit58, spot ony. It only took a couple of minutes to remove the screen and instrument cowl to gain access to the two nuts and sure one was missing the top hat. Brilliant forum - thanks for the reply.

Hi everyone. I'm back and looking for guidance on an issue that I noticed recently on my 2007. I got this bike a few months ago and I never really paid attention but I'm pretty sure I've started the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in, but riding it this weekend, I noticed that the bike won't start when in gear and clutch pulled in. Yes I've made sure that the kick stand is up. The bike start fine in neutral so I'm assuming it has something to do with the clutch electronics?? Before I start digging, maybe someone can point me in the right direction for what I need to look into. I did have the front (upper) cowl off recently but I don't know if that might have anything to do with this issue. I appreciate your input and help in advance. EDIT: Another thing to add... once the bike is running, I can shift into gear (with kickstand up of course) and no issue riding. Obviously I'd like to get this fixed as it could be dangerous if the bike stalls in traffic and then finding N to start, etc.

Hello folks, I do apologize for what I'm about to write. I betrayed the cause 😁 Yes, I did. I knew it deeper in my gut, but I never wanted to admit: VFR G5 is a fantastic machine, indeed, and it's probably one of the most noble bike ever but in the end it doesn't win me over. During my tuning setup I worked to get the VFR more sporty, more radical, more visceral; something that a VFR definitely isn't. Then, a month ago, I had the occasion to go out for a ride with this old wreck: Not so old (2003) but in very poor maintenance conditions: timing chain tensioners about to fail (as well as what happens with G6), repainted and crashed, with left side fairing scratched and footpeg bent down, VERY BAD electrical jobs on the tail lights... IN SHORT, THAT SUCKED. But guys... I fell love at the first corner ❤️ This bike, probably one of the last carbureted big bikes, gives a purely mechanical connection with its pilot, something rough and ancestral. I decided with no hesitation: I traded an even exchange with my VFR, with no expenses for me (any bureaucratic fee on the previous owner) and I took it in my garage. Dismantled... ...and renewed taking inspiration by what done on the VFR (coil conversion, for example) here's how it is now: And much much more is coming (exhaust brackets by my design, footpegs, suspensions upgrade, overall lightening, etc). This bike gave me enthusiasm again, so it definitely worth the step. I'm sorry to leave the VFR, but this bike better matches my current idea of riding: I have no longer time and possibility for long rides, I can only take the bike out for a short and intense gallops (1h max), and the VTR makes it beautifully. I want to thank you all for the inspiration and support you gave me. This community is a rare thing on the net; I'm glad I met you. THANK YOU

update on this thread. soldered the wiring together at the ignition switch wiring plug on the rh side of the frame just by the R/R as there was a bit of doubt on 2 of the 3 terminals. funny thing is, the bike was charging at 14.2 until I plugged the low beams back on. battery volts dropped to 12.4. Am I looking at a severe voltage drop in the bikes wiring or what? I might go to the lengths of a previous post about 5th gen wiring upgrades like running extra earths and pos feeds to various places. Man! I am so SICK of this bike.

Yes it's the collar for the grommet that holds the 2 top studs on the top fairing. 2 bottom ones are plastic pins that fit tinto grommets also. m6 nuts should be on the top studs. thre collar often falls out when the fairing is removed. There should be one each side. The collars fit into the grommets from the BIKE side.

Hi, Just joined the group and have owned my 2002 VFR Vtec since 2005. It has always run faultlessly until last week when it would turn over but not run. No sound from the fuel pump and HISS and F1 light permanently on. I stripped off all the fairing panels to get to the various relays which I thought may be the problem according to my Haynes manual and information I got from this site. Turned out to be a fault with the Datatool alarm which I had fitted in 2005. However, having refitted all the panels I was just lowering the bike on the hydraulic bench when something dropped onto the bench. It's what we call a "top hat" here in the UK. Question is - where is it from? I've attached a photo. Any ideas before I remove all the panels again.

Yes at all revs. NO change. I cannot get my head round why this VFR will not charge. I mean, if it was a broken/corroded wire/wires, surley the battery should still show a charge straight from the R/R. There are no frying wires, nothing overheating, As I said, the bike does everything it was meant to do Except charge a battery. The remote battery I rigged up from the R/R (not connected in any way to the VFR except from the stator and R/R), shows 14.8 volts with a 100W bulb attached for dummy load. I might add, The remote battery/bulb arrangment immediately went to 14.8 volts at idle on start up.

Service Manuals specify that if you don't reach the annual mileage for an oil change that the oil should be changed annually, but if the annual mileage is next to zero, why should the oil be changed? Does it degrade? What is the reason for changing a year-old oil that through the sight glass looks perfectly clean and new? Does anyone know the answer please?

You have got the crank in the right spot and I think your intake cam is retarded by one tooth. The RI mark should be parallel to the cam cover gasket surface. For the exhaust cam you can sight through the hole in the frame spar to check it's alignment but it also looks like the chain has skipped forwards by one tooth there too. I bought new standard CCTs from Webike Japan, GBP128 delivered for two.

Hi everyone, I noticed the cam chain was rattling really badly, It has a manual cct at the back, i tried setting the tension whilst turning the engine slowly by hand at the same time but then I did this it was diffucult to turn then almost cracked loose and I assume that was the chain jumping and then catching again on the cam sprocket due to being so loose . I tried starting it after setting cct and it wouldn't fire up so I checked the timing and found it looks to be out of time by a few teeth, can anyone confirm This before I adjust the timing

Hi everyone, I noticed the cam chain was rattling really badly, It has a manual cct at the back, i tried setting the tension whilst turning the engine slowly by hand at the same time but then I did this it was diffucult to turn then almost cracked loose and I assume that was the chain jump and then catch again on the cam sprocket due to being so loose . I tried starting it after setting cct and it wouldn't fire up so I checked the timing and found it looks to be out of time by a few teeth, can anyone confirm This before I adjust the timing 20250720_131613.mp4

Welcome!

Welcome to the forum!

Congrats!

Also at above idle?

Copy that! Glad you're getting it sorted! Bring it by Wolfsmiths in the Heights any Saturday from 0900 to noon once she's ready. That's a great bike meet that me and my friends here frequent. Would love to see more VFR representation

Yes but listing don't tell is it front or rear cylinder heads exhaust can. You can actually buy a new even not cheap and I will probably need the followers as well

This is in Germany so shipping will be cheaper https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167327119150?_skw=rc24+exhaust+camshafr&itmmeta=01K0MC0S5YB6F8FR4CQN54SPJN&hash=item26f579372e:g:590AAeSw8bpnq3YV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eT80MyMBMj29JaIjkUUw5X32%2BmStTvqJT6USPWiOXF7HZje2WqUzIOZhz8gbJM2TPLa3kMZMFrfLQKNiS8mwdotEn7yPP6ymiwkauuI0If%2BP28jvsoxf1G0mLRYJfCxmWPVii%2FmxG%2Fi3ngWqO7zm7iNGyPFJtEX3rtVXAJt4KfyKmPCp5zNTerW8q8QrhWERr6z3SeEvBCxkHF32vChoXKwOoruAWU%2Bn0dOQGhdKMRZiSen%2BxytkaQgZXVjNgx2E8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_6Tg4yFZg

Well today was both a great as a slight sad day for my RWB RC24 Well let's start whit the sad thing. As I bought this bike it had an even ticking that I noticed but didn't sound to bad, as I adjusted the valves it became a bit more noicy, and now it gets more so at idle in especially, at higher rom you don't notice it and bike runs really great. But this morning decided to take a peak under valve covers one more time even all cams looked fine during valve adjustment. And yes, cylinder #3 exhaust cams are not good anymore sadly Some pitting. So need to change it. Then the good thing. Yes, my RWB VFR passed the classic inspection! So a chilling cola, (Pepsi actually) was in order to celebrate 🥳

I think I need to change my user name to USELESS EUSTACE.

Ok all you boffins and technofreaks out there , I need a GOOD explanation as to why this 6th gen 2003 800vtec will not charge. I replaced what I thought, after very lengthy checks, a faulty battery. Now a news high quality GEL one. Shindengen mod , heavy wiring to battery and stator. NEW stator, new main fuse and holder, earth bypasses all done, yellow plug delete done, all connections made with solder on replacement bits. Now with a spare battery rigged up wired straight to the extra pos and neg from the shindengen but not connected to the VFR, I get 14.9 volts using a 100W bulb to simulate load when I start the bike. ( the bike has its new battery in place and the mock up is not connected to the bike wiring in any way) This has definitely made sure the charging side is perfect. It should be, its all new. When I reconnect the pos and neg leads from shindengen back on the VFR, 12.2 volts. same at the front on the redundant R/R plug which cam off the OE regulator. This has really got me beat? starter Solenoid plug and wiring checks out good and clean also. I mean, EVERYthing works as it should on this bike except it will not charge.