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#GTMAN, No idea why filters cost so much (other than "capitalism"). My filter cost about $61 (USD) on Amazon. I've had no problems with residue in the tank using water, cider vinegar, water, and then gasoline. Good luck with getting her back on the road again!

Thats neat! We cant filter through traffic in Quebec so we're stuck like a car. I dont knownif id be willing to. Courtesy on the road is not common sens here.

Lower temperatures would indeed be very welcome. When passing traffic jams (allowed in the Netherlands), temperatures went up quickly in summer. I installed a Noctua NF-F12 (IP67) and designed/printed brackets from polycarbonate for mounting:

Curious... how many miles on the bike and also miles since the R/R change? Yours is the first ever heard about the FH020 giving up ghost... -I'm running the same 6ish years and its still fine. btw - suggest you add a digital voltmeter up front to monitor while you ride. There's lots of choices...

I never payed attention to milage so i wont be able to report. Mohawk said he was getting more power, better milage and cooler engine temps. I expect the rapid bike / mtb to adapt instantly, we'll see. As for the cooling situation, i already fitted mine with a pusher SPAL high cfm fan, a small computer fan on the other side and a lower switch that turns the fans on at 95c and off at 90c. I can withstand traffic with this setup which i couldn't before.

Would love to hear some longer term experience on milage and how well the Rapidbike is able to autotune to this new situation. I would expect a significant adjustment.

Good to hear you found the culprit! We learn the most from our mistakes.

Ok, quick update. I tested the RR, it’s junk & smelled burnt, initial tests of the stator were promising with resistance and nothing to ground but……… running VAC is a bit low. At 1900rpm it’s running 10.8-11.0vac and at 5000rpm it’s running 33.6-35.0vac. I’m ordering an SH847 and will be looking for a shop to rewind the stator.

Solved. The bike fired right up. Problem was that i can be quit stupid sometimes. Did you know that if you mix fuel tank air vent and MAP sensor tube your bike run like shit? The MAP tube even have some red paint on it like the sensor to match it. Im not proud of to admit it but it is what it is. Now im more knowledgeable in the TB tubing stuff. And i took the TB on and off so many times this week that i can do it in no time now. Thank you for your willingness to help anyway!

Just picked up the red to keep the black and blue company. Sold a previous blue 5th gen and red 4th gen. Need something to do when retired 8P

Maybe you can follow the self diagnostic procedure. If the ECM has self diagnosis memory data, you will get some blinks of the FI light which links to a cause.

Update; it was a sticking fuel pump relay. Tapped it several times which freed it up and bike now starts again. Thanks everyone for your help.

Cheers for the info Terry.

Hi Worfje, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I’m hoping this. It’s taking a charge now but time will tell and once I check charging while running with the R/R disconnected. If it’s a bad battery I’ll swap it out. I deal a lot with Interstate so figured I give it a shot, an AGM dry version adding the solution before installing letting it set and then on the Tender for a couple weeks or so waiting for time to ride.

Hi Bronco, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

A 5/8" master would bring the master/slave area ratio right back to stock. The 6th gen stock operates 5 pistons up front (unlike the 5th gen which does 4).

2002-2005 VFR800 Engine Management Schematic - ECU pins and coloring corrected View File This is a correction to the diagram released by Honda in 2002. It now has accurate pin numbering and wire colours according to the European 2002-2005 wire setup. This routing is tested and works with both the 38770-MCW-D02 and 38770-MCW-D03 ECUS. American or other ECUs are similar but without HISS and slightly different wire colouring (two black and yellow wires in connector B, for example). Black connector: A Grey connector: B Submitter Sobu Submitted 05/15/2025 Category Owners Manuals and other  

That sounds like a broken battery, not just flat. Maybe an internal break. Even a "flat" battery should show some voltage.

My 99 runs at a right around 180F on the freeway which is the thermostat opening point, which tells me there is excess radiator cooling capacity at that point. I would be rechecking your thermostat as it sounds like it may be jammed. My easy thermostat test (no disassembly needed!) is to start the cold engine and let it warm at a standstill and keep a hand on the radiator. If the thermostat is working the radiator stays cold until you reach 176-odd which is when it should start to open and dump hot coolant out to the radiator, which you feel as a sudden jump in temperature. If the radiator slowly heats up from when you start the bike, the thermostat is jammed open. If the radiator doesn't get hot around 176 then it may be jammed closed.

As you can see from my Avatar image, I also have a 5th gen and have to say it appears to pull just as hard right through the rev range with it's boring 16v system. VTEC does seem like a bit of a gimmick but I quite like the character that it gives the 6th gen. I am old enough to have ridden 2-strokes in the 80's and it is (a little) reminiscent of that...My inner conspiracy theorist thinks VTEC was introduced to distract from the switch to chain drive for the cams, which I am sure was solely for noise/cost reasons.

It’s so flat it didn’t show anything on my Fluke, 0.0vdc…….

Sorry to hear! Maybe check your fuses as well, if not already part of 'the drill'.

Interested in what you find out.... Before you put the battery on charge... what voltage does it read?

I have to say it’s been pretty much a trouble free 5 years. But today, the first ride of the season we made it 22 miles before rolling to a stop on the side of the road. I put a new battery (always on a Tender) in it a couple weeks ago when I changed the oil getting things ready for the season. Five years ago I upgraded the RR with an FA020AA (kit) from Jacks and life has been pretty good considering the age of the bike. So later I’ll unload it from the trailer, charge the battery, run “the drill” and see if the stator gave up or if the RR had enough. The RR was HOT when I put my finger on it lol, yup I did that………