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6th gen VFR800 has finally got a road legal LED light bulb. OSRAM has homologated their OSRAM H7 Night Breaker LED SPEED 450% bulbs for road use in many European countries. VFR800 2002-2010 is listed in the first link below. Check the second link to see if it applies your country. They're a bit pricy at 130€ for a pair, and we have four. Make sure to have a series rectifier installed before switching to LED or a stator failure is imminent. https://look.ams-osram.com/m/686c4ad4f6b36d7b/original/Night-Breaker-LED-Compatibility-List-Motorcycle-EN.pdf https://www.osram.de/am/night-breaker-led/night-breaker-led-ledcheck.jsp?mkt=/ledcheck/

It was factory when I got it.

I just did the remote tuning with sabsteef and dude was awesome. 5/5 stars. It was very easy and straight forward. He even disabled my exhaust solenoid so I could take it off the bike with no check engine light. I love the way the bike feels now. There is a noticeable increase in power and smoothness. It is so much fun. The delay is almost non existent. I am very happy with my decision to get it

Cleaned out that little port with a bristle from a wire brush. Could see daylight through it. Tempted to drill it out and give it a shot, way things are looking I'm gonna start spending on new parts anyway.

As well as modifying the brackets to suite the different subframe, you'll need to modify the exhaust. A good 1st step is to look at the installation guide, available from our downloads pages.

When you say "return port is not blocked" are you referring to the tiny port that I circled? Sorry to say, what you describe sounds like that port does have a partial blockage as it takes some time for the pressure to build up (probably as the clutch fluid heats up) so the slipping starts. The orientation of parts in the master looks correct, the pistons have to have their "cupped" ends pushing when the clutch lever is actuated.

only issue I see, the push rod needs to be reversed. flat side with brass bushing on lever and rounded tip inside the "cup" on piston.

Is there a certain orientation I have to arrange the spiral piston on assembly? Stumped. Feels like I'm hunting ghosts.

Took a week for it to start slipping again. Complete disassembly and cleaning of system, reassembly off the bike. Lever pulled, slave piston goes out. Lever released, slave piston fails to recede all the way back into the slave cylinder. Takes lots of pressure to push it back, must be what the poor clutch springs have been fighting against this whole time. Evidently, fluid is getting stuck in the hose/cylinder (not returning to master cylinder). HOWEVER! Return port is not blocked. Seals appear fine (?). I am getting PISSED. How could I possibly convince this piston to recede back into the slave cylinder. Also taking suggestions for new clutch activation delivery systems because this one seems haunted.

Can you have a talk with my VF1000Rs that have two front mount radiators? It would be great if they could gain some faith before Summer. I guess technically they're not "VFR"s, so they might not be receptive.

Has anyone heard of the 6th gen bags being fit to a 5th gen? Found some for a steal but I own a 5th gen. Might honestly just buy them as investment but it'd be wonderful if I could mount them on my bike.

Since cooling was discussed a few posts back, it seems to me that the fan on mine is bringing the temperature down slower than it did a few years ago. Is there a rough benchmark for how fast it should return it to 100 (say when idling), and can the fan wear out? I don't do a lot of city-centre riding, and the bike has only done 30k miles.

Picking this back up... mbe I'l get to ride this bike! Did a check fit of the rebuilt calipers with all blingy Titanium fasteners on the fresh silver powder coat painted wheelz... Looking very fine... Then stopped in to Spiegler Performance to grab a few banjo bolts.( I live too close to them!). On display were these fancy levers..... The guy behind the counter looks at me and says "you like?" Me-----oooooooooooo! Counter guy... "Well (Sucker ..me) We can set you up with those!" Me while drooling... "'I'm such a sucker for bling. But those are expensive!" (Yeah, right) ... out goes the credit card We'll see how they work on when installed..... Note to self ---- "Stop spending on this 28 year old motorcycle!' (Yeah, right....🤪)

Ran the bike today, predictably it reacted exactly as you stated. Like you. I was never able to find a 100C single pin switch. I'll install a manual fan switch for when I'm in high ambient temps stuck in traffic.

It looked bad but after a soak it was much worse than it appeared. I was lucky to find a tank in Germany yesterday via Ebay, it's on its way 🙂

You might find this helpful.

I will take a closer look at that when I get home. just have to figure out how to take the fairings off first. I am going to do another parasitic drain test to be sure. Since you know more about this stuff, what range of numbers on the multimeter is considered normal when testing this? is it normal for the number to jump really high when I first complete circuit then slowly drop back down? I sort of took the fairing off to see where it could plug into or where it came from. it looks to be a pretty short wire and i followed it and the wire seems to originate near the R/R not sure though as there is a cluster of wires in that area so it could go further. i just dont want to break fairings trying to take them off if I dont need to. is the "flapper" something many people disconnect? if so, I will leave it alone. last question I promise. At this point with trying to solve this. do I install a battery disconnect switch to stop the drain till I fix it? if so, any brands or links as to what I should get? also, thank you guys for helping me with this! as someone who is more mechanically inclined. this electronic stuff freaks me out. your help has been so genuinely appreciated!!!

It handles much better now, of course. Handlebar input isn't sucked up by squishy fork springs. With proper compression and rebound settings, all the action happens down at the road instead of up by your hands so it's a much less fatiguing to ride. It goes where I point it with much better manners. Feels like being on a rail around turns.

Had the same problem on my 2001. By the time I put mt third rear on, I just filed the opening bigger. I now have an aftermarket exhaust though.

Yes, the problem was there thank you very much

Here are some TTS/JE piston pics: The used OEM piston is from my '93 VFR750FP (not an RC46), but this should show the difference between an OEM cast/forged(?) piston and a JE machined piston. Obviously, a used JE piston will be slightly less shiny, but you should still be able to see what you need to see. More pics, FYI: Ciao, JZH

Is it possible to loosen the footrest hanger to get things lined up and then tighten everything up? Alternatively, use a file to extend the hole on the silencer mount, it looks like 2-3 mm.

thank you for the reply, the silencer is 100% seated into the header with both the clamp bolts lose. still have these strange gap...

Most likely that the silencer isn't seated correctly at the clamp where it joins the exhaust. Loosen the clamp and wiggle it until it all lines up.