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Thanks for the advice. I did order the ones mentioned by vfrgiving, from Japan. I shall do a comparison with the ST1100 ones which I have buried somewhere in a box in my basement when they arrive. This forum never ceases to amaze me with the friendlieness and reaching out to help by members.

It is a very glitchy website and sometimes hard to search for items or even bring up your Order for review, but once you eventually place your order the Customer service communication is very good. My first order with them, but based on other peoples's experiences I am expecting no problems

I am extremely familiar with your very detailed and extremely useful thread on vfrworld, have made notes from it, and in fact sent you a message this week asking why your youtube video has disappeared. I have just this week ordered the longer throttle and choke cables from Webike, but also have an ST1100 cable which I had bought based on comments by AnikMankar and Sebspeed about it also working on the 5th Gen. The ST1100 one worked for Helibars and Superbike bars but I am not sure if it will work for anything higher than those. I should be able to compare them once my order arrives. I wish that those Knight low footpegs that you used weren't so expensive. With our weak Canadian dollar, shipping and taxes they would be C$400, which is a lot for two footpegs. Thank you for the image of the cables. A picture paints a thousand words. re "If someone needs to go further than the Police handlebar, then you've got quite the interesting project" Lots of those riders in the USA and Canada. Hint - they ride big V Twins and love to have their hands above the shoulders gripping Apehangers 😀

5th gen Honda Factory stock left - Hurrcane HB6055 right. If someone needs to go further than the Police handlebar, then you've got quite the interesting project.

I think I placed my first Webike order coming up on like 5 years now?? That would have been from a Windows device.. 🤷‍♂️

Actually, it does seem to work for me now. I have complained to them previously, maybe they listened?

I posted the link from a Windows 11 device and I see no issue?? 😕 Microsoft just hate Kiwis?

The Webike website sucks (I can only view it on my iPhone or iPad, never on my Windows devices) but their service has been 100% reliable.

Long Gen 5 throttle cables, in stock. https://japan.webike.net/products/2074342.html All components from the police kit have their own part numbers and can be bought separately. I have a spare set of HB6055 on the shelf.

My VFR1200 steered like a truck until I replaced the front tyre and fixed the saggy rear preload. The front tyre didn't look terrible, but was definitely a contributing factor.

Monster thread for sitting upright on gen 5s is here. Full install details with photos. Log in and read the whole thing. https://www.vfrworld.com/threads/hurricane-police-handlebar-kit-fully-installed.59274/

Confirm tire sizes, a few mm of sidewall dimension can make quite an effect, especially front

I did a lot of tinterweb research before modifying my 5th Gen to conventional bars, OEM cables were way too short routed as per stock, just looked a right mess routed any other way. Found ST1300 cables are very usable if you can find any on ebay, a few inches longer, all fittings are the same both ends, but the inners have a tad too much length, you could make em perfect by cutting inners down & re-soldering nipples on, but it's a bit of a faff, I had to lose about 10mm of unwanted cable slack to leave enough at the bars for fine adjustment, it's doable with a cable tie in the right place. I found tying some wire to the old cable ends under the tank helpful, pulled old cable then used as a pull thru for new cables, makes life easier on the install. I expect ST1100 cable are of similar length, from info I could find at the time, 1100 cables are a tad shorter than 1300's but longer than VFR's. or Pay a wedge & have some custom length cables made up.

Hi Anik, It's 10 years since you did this Convertbar mod. Do you remember if you used ST1100 throttle cable, and if so did it fit easily? Ross

Will do.👍

Is it possible to shim the upper shock mount? I know on other Hondas from the same era, the top shock clevis uses a vertical bolt that passes through the frame; shimming the clevis down by 4-6mm will have the effect of raising the rear end and speeding steering. Edit: just beaten to the post again!

You can also shim the upper shock mount to the frame for some cheap, quick ride height increase.

Yeah mate, I'll be replacing the detent arm/wheel & its return spring, plus the shift rod return spring, no brainer really for the lost cost involved. Can't believe the rip off price of the Factory Pro detent arm, its only micro bearing on a bit of stamped steel. Comparing the 2 shift stars, the factory Pro star has a rounded profile & is in full contact with the detent wheel when in gear, where as the Honda shift star is more of a stretched out V-shape & looks like it'll have two contact points when in gear, I've done a fair bit of eBay trawling & discovered that a 1997/1998 CBR600 shift star profile has a near identical profile to the Factory Pro star, hence I've sourced one cheap off eBay to see if it's worth modifying the peaks, first impressions are the CBR600 star will perform better subject ti to be the same general dimensions & locking pin is in the same orientation as the VFR star. Factory Pro shift star points are shorter & more rounded than a VFR star Honda star which has sharp inverted V-shaped peaks, I expect just taking a couple of mm of the peaks on the VFR star & rounding em over should improve the gear to gear shift no end. I'll update as & when I've done these mods.

Thanks guys that’s really useful. I’ll check the fork height above the yokes and then have a good look at the shock. I’m more used to a CBR600 set up for Cadwell Park track days, so I may well need to make some adjustments. I saw a few shock options that offer ride height adjustment on the Thorn website, but the adapted triangle they offer will as 2.5 cm (around 1 inch) to the rear, so I may try that first.

Do they look like this? https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/IsYAAOSwfb1nfeJC/s-l1600.webp I believe those are OEM plates. Aftermarket (lowering and raising) ones are usually much fancier. Ciao, JZH

Seat height in shop manual states 800mm from ground, foot peg height is 350mm, 2 points to check with. As a rule of thumb if you can see daylight above rear tyre just behind rear peg hangers viewed level with tyre top, ride height is likely stock. Used 20 odd yr old bike, highly likely previous owners have played with suspension in some way, spring rates may not be stock. Check you have stock setting of 39mm of fork stanchion above top yoke, measured to stanchion top, not counting alloy fork cap. What's your height? What do you weigh in full gear? All plays it's part in how a bike sags/rides/feels etc.

For how much of your rear wheel and tire are showing from a standing viewpoint fairly close to the bike, it does not look "lowered" to me. Look to see if you can see the arrows on the linkage plates. They should point up and forward (this is going from memory, so somebody correct me if wrong). I'm not home to verify..

I’ve only had this a few months and noticed yesterday that it’s quite slow turning in, the tyres aren’t worn and only 20k miles on the clock-I’m wondering if it’s been lowered at the rear (the triangle that joins the shock linkage Is suspiciously shiny) I’m looking at getting the riser linkage from Thurn Motorsport in Germany but I’d like to know if its ’standard’ now or lower before I increase it. does anyone have the measurement for example from the floor to a datum point on the subframe /rear cowl that I can compare please?

You take the connector apart? Would be curious to see if the pins carrying 12v originally were toasted.

Many thanks to both of you for your help. Unfortunately it wasn't the switch itself - however it is now extra clean for the future 😁 Relays were both all good. Father-in-law still has my multi meter, so I used the primitive method of testing 12v (it involves sparks and a sacrifice fuse - don't ask). In the end I wasn't getting anything from the red/black, so I took the fairings off to get at the "big blue" connector. PO had crudely routed the red/black wire OVER the connector with some of those nasty heat shrink solder splice things, which were either melted or under friction as there was a fair bit of frayed and exposed copper. I assume this was somehow related to the previously installed light bar - so after some crude wiring of my own (for now), the relay now gets 12v to the red/black and I have low beam headlights again. 🎉