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sfdownhill

New 5th/6th/8th gen performance header now in production in USA

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You CANNOT fit that centerstand through the gap between the downpipes and the outlet on a 5th gen. At least on mine you can't.  I just tried yesterday. You have to weave the centerstand up through it, which means taking it off, fitting it through, then ataching the centerstand before attaching the pipes.

 

I took illustrative pictures.

 

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I recon you could spring the headers past the centre stand looking at that photo.

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Not sure if this would help any, just measured the cross member on the c stand and on the 6g it is 2.5mm less than the sides

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Gee, I didn't think to try either of those things.

 

It's not as close as it looks and there's a whole lot of pipe out of frame. There are only so many angles you can get to and I had no leverage to expand anything.

 

Just plan on dropping the center stand on a 5th gen to feed it through. It's two fucking bolts and you probably should clean and regrease that mount anyway.

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Just wanted to give an update for you all. I wanted to chime in earlier but I was helping a fellow VFR owner rebuild his entire 5 Gen braking system. That includes rebuilding all 4 master cylinders (3 brake and 1 clutch) and the secondary MC and all three calipers. Plus replacing the rear rotor (long story) and replacing the brake lines to stainless steel Galfer lines! Yeah long day and we got close but ran into a few SNAFUs and have to order a couple more parts, so we'll have to continue another day.

 

Anyway, on to my update, yes we were able to get the first lot of 5/6 Gen headers finally, Whew! that was fun but in regards to those who are waiting for center stand stops. That's a sore subject at the moment. The second party we approached to handle this said they needed a bike with the new headers on and some sort of mock up of what we were looking for. SF had made a template that was meant to be used with a T-clamp and would have been able to work with either gen. However, the folks who had the task did not seem to not understand that the template was a concept piece and not a fully functional piece, it needed work and figuring out, which was supposed to be their job.. Well they took it as "Here, make some of these and add them to the t-clamps"

 

So after keeping the bike for a week and producing useless components, which they determined wouldn't work after they made them, said "We tried but could get what you wanted to work. But we did provide you with parts we made from your template, that'll be $150 please". Needless to say, this was not what we were expecting, especially being handed cut pieces of steel that was pattered off of a "concept" piece! So now we are looking to try another shop that was too busy to handle the first attempt as well as another concept that might work just as well if not better!

 

In summary, those who ordered and are waiting for center stand stops, please be patient, we are working on it.

 

Cheers,

D

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🤔Would it be easier for the stop to be attached to the c stand somehow?

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assembly_190426_180720.jpg&key=3603280190a423884b90dd79f68e76fe77813758c20937ee6738b5cc3811ede9
 
That's a 5th gen. I had to drop the stand.
Not every header is 100% the same mine had plenty of space to fit that center stand through that gap, just an FYI

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

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When I added my custom High mount pipe, I forgot to spec a stand stop. So I bought some 4mm wall silicone hose cut a 2” length then slit it along one side. Slid it on to the right leg of the centre stand, whilst the bike was on the side stand, adjusted it in place to centre on the contact with the exhaust & cut a little away to fit around the stand cross bar. Once all adjusted, I cable tied it in place. Worked a treat ! 

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I think I had more space due to the fact that the 6th gen headers had that extra lil bit of length removed from the outlet ping for better fitment if I recall correctly, but what ever the reason, the headers I had for my 6th gen didn't require center stand removal

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

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3 hours ago, MooseMoose said:

Gee, I didn't think to try either of those things.

 

It's not as close as it looks and there's a whole lot of pipe out of frame. There are only so many angles you can get to and I had no leverage to expand anything.

 

Just plan on dropping the center stand on a 5th gen to feed it through. It's two fucking bolts and you probably should clean and regrease that mount anyway.

Don't forget that the righthand centre stand bolt, looking from the rear towards the front, is a LEFTHAND thread.

There have been many, many that have been snapped off when trying to remove the stand!

 

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Although I am going to put my set on m y 5 Gen, sans center stand, I am on the waiting list for Center Stand Stop for my 6 Gen.  When I put a set of 98-99 cat-less headers on my 6 Gen, I had to come up with a solution. I came up with a temporary one. I went to Home Depot and bought a conduit hanger and did a little adjustment to it. In order to keep the tension of the clamp, I drilled 4 holes in the bend and looped some safety wire through it. Instead of a rubber bumper, I ended up putting a zip tie mount on the bottom. It worked great but wanted something a little more elegant, hence being on the waiting list for a new one.

 

IMG_4102.thumb.JPG.0bc7ba12a29c0937c3b942935ff7e2de.JPG

 

IMG_4103.thumb.JPG.316c1b04e83449f4cff18a06e4f7266d.JPG

 

57802331804__2C872A7F-2124-4090-B81F-B9B5DCAF829C.thumb.jpg.11f7410e67367f74be20096f2d65ec30.jpg

 

57802369930__9750E1D9-6C15-40E9-A4E2-8E252732C25E.thumb.jpg.d65f2733fcc38cd7cddb402f01674c23.jpg

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When i bought the Vance & Hines titanium pipe it came with a piece that works as a centerstand stop. It wouldn't be difficult to fabricate. Here's a photo or two. U can see why I ordered new headers!4b21d2bc522c4c70b5d539d4e6072d32.jpg44b042b3bc41925f32898e549a4a4f00.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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Sorry to hear about the trouble with the shop, that sucks. That seems to be a part I could produce. If a solution isn't found by the time I get my 8th gen headers on my bike, I'll be able to offer whatever part I make for myself to those that still need them. 

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5 hours ago, HighSideNZ said:

Don't forget that the righthand centre stand bolt, looking from the rear towards the front, is a LEFTHAND thread.

There have been many, many that have been snapped off when trying to remove the stand!

 

6TH GENS! (ONLY?)

Not sure on 8th, but 5th is standard.

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24 minutes ago, SEBSPEED said:

Sorry to hear about the trouble with the shop, that sucks. That seems to be a part I could produce. If a solution isn't found by the time I get my 8th gen headers on my bike, I'll be able to offer whatever part I make for myself to those that still need them. 

Hmm, I’ll talk to SF and see what he’s thinking. Definitely appreciate the offer!

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38 minutes ago, interceptor69 said:

When i bought the Vance & Hines titanium pipe it came with a piece that works as a centerstand stop. It wouldn't be difficult to fabricate. Here's a photo or two. U can see why I ordered new headers!4b21d2bc522c4c70b5d539d4e6072d32.jpg44b042b3bc41925f32898e549a4a4f00.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Exactly, this is what I saw yesterday on the friends 5 Gen I was working on. I sent a picture to SF and we think this is a possible solution. I was going to mock up something later today and see if I can fit it to my 6 Gen. Or at least try, since I was in the garage all day yesterday the wife is asking for her time time! 🙂

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That looks like something prime to 3D print too... if someone has a drawing I could look into it...


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2 hours ago, BuzznerSuntrusts said:

6TH GENS! (ONLY?)

Not sure on 8th, but 5th is standard.

Beat me to it.   My 5th gen is standard.

 

Torque these to spec, too. They have  lot of threads for medium loctite, and a wavey washer. These do a great job at keeping them from vibrating out. There's nothing to be bought by overstressing the bolt.

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Hard to see in this pic but best I have unfortunately. 

31F81FC3-948E-49E9-8B85-676BB7612E0B.thumb.jpeg.3936d08575cf295388cc32fc60baf075.jpeg

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On 4/28/2019 at 12:17 AM, Mohawk said:

When I added my custom High mount pipe, I forgot to spec a stand stop. So I bought some 4mm wall silicone hose cut a 2” length then slit it along one side. Slid it on to the right leg of the centre stand, whilst the bike was on the side stand, adjusted it in place to centre on the contact with the exhaust & cut a little away to fit around the stand cross bar. Once all adjusted, I cable tied it in place. Worked a treat ! 

Best, simplest idea yet. And it wouldn't have to hang a single thing on the 6 gen midpipe.

 

 

23 hours ago, HighSideNZ said:

Don't forget that the righthand centre stand bolt, looking from the rear towards the front, is a LEFTHAND thread.

There have been many, many that have been snapped off when trying to remove the stand!

5 GEN RIGHT SIDE CENTER STAND BOLT IS REGULAR RIGHT HAND THREAD

 

HighSideNZ - you are correct about 6 gen

 

8 GEN RIGHT SIDE CENTER STAND BOLT IS REVERSE LEFT HAND THREAD [Recent experience with dyno test bike]

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On 1/4/2019 at 2:35 AM, sfdownhill said:

...

I did ask him about ceramic coating the headers, and he strongly recommend not ceramic coating them, because the high heat retained by the coating beings a degradation process on the stainless steel He pointed out that the TBR headers show signs of having been run lean enough long enough to begin very slight damage. The surface of the headers have a light surface roughness and coloration because of being subjected to higher than optimum heat.

So, not to beat a dead horse here, but I guess I'm a little dubious of the total dismissal of ceramic. I'll admit, you'd be better off without than having a poor job done, so maybe he's protecting himself from poor workmanship from a 3rd party - which is understandable. With ceramic, like all coatings, there is a lot in proper application, and there are definitely some shady types in the business. 

 

The reputable shop in my area routinely coats headers both inside and out. A properly applied coating inside the header seems likely to make up the difference in retained heat and the potential to drop the external temperature of the headers by 600 degrees has got to be worth considering... that's a lot of heat that is now flowing out the pipes and no longer trapped inside your fairings! If nothing else, your R/R may thank you at the next red light you sit through!

 

Quote from Hotrod.com Note: Admittedly, probably not the most impartial source you could find, but if they were really trying to sell the snake oil, they would have managed to find some magical horsepower in there somewhere...

Quote

The coated headers measured 258 degrees F dropping to 195 degrees F a minute after shutdown. In contrast, the uncoated header measured a scalding 870 degrees, retaining 520 degrees a minute after shutdown. 

Take it for what it's worth (talk is cheap, comments on the internet are cheaper...) but if I decide I feel rich enough to spring for the headers, mine will probably get coated as well.

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I don't have enough experience to know if the SS tube would be compromised by retaining higher temperatures, but it doesn't look like our headers could be completely coated on the inside.

12 hours ago, Marvelicious said:

The reputable shop in my area routinely coats headers both inside and out. A properly applied coating inside the header seems likely to make up the difference in retained heat and the potential to drop the external temperature of the headers by 600 degrees has got to be worth considering...

 

This is from Swaintech: http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

Quote

On naturally aspirated motors (non-turbo), we will typically coat the inside of headers as deep as possible. However, if we think the coating will interfere with the fit of the header to the motor or the header to the mating exhaust part, we will typically mask off those surfaces. Remember our coating is about .015” thick, not a thin paint. If there is masking you want to have done, be sure to let us know by marking this right on the part with a marker so we know what you want. If you want us to coat the inside of the part, let us know so we can process the part the way you want. We do not coat the inside of mufflers, catalytic converters or expansion chambers because they are not very accessible and there is very little coating that would bond to the inside of the parts.

 

The most critical step in getting a coating to achieve a tenacious bond to the base metal of an exhaust part is by applying a good abrasive blast on the part at about a 90° angle to the substrate. Simply put, there are few exhaust parts that are open and accessible enough to apply this type of blast. If a good blast cannot be obtained there is no possible way a permanent bond will be achieved. This is why we take the time to mask off the interior surfaces of turbo parts. For the small amount of area that a good bond can be achieved on, it is not worth taking the risk of coating the inside where the coating could come off and damage the turbo.

If you look at the spec sheet on Jet Hot's exhaust coating page it says the same thing: https://www.jet-hot.com/thermal-barrier/

 

Maybe there's another way to do it, but if the entire inside can't be internally coated, I'm not sure I want to take the risk of having these headers rot out like my current ones.
 

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7 hours ago, Funkotron said:

Maybe there's another way to do it, but if the entire inside can't be internally coated, I'm not sure I want to take the risk of having these headers rot out like my current ones.
 

Cracking due to thermal fatigue would be the damage mechanism here... so they wouldn't rot the like mild steel pipes, but garbage nonetheless. Incidentally, 304 stainless is theoretically rated for 1600°F, though thermal fatigue is more prevalent when there is a large thermal gradient.

 

I know there are blasting nozzles that are designed for 360° use inside pipe, but I would be curious to understand their application methods before pulling the trigger.

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(I feel like the clueless kid at the back of class)

 

Can I ask why?  Exactly why are we talking about exhaust coatings here in this forum thread? 

 

I have to know, is there a specific reason or concern or flaw (in these new stainless steel headers) that has caused the discussion to be re-directed onto the topic of header coatings?

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