MooseMoose

Water injection is a great power aid. It was used in WWII radial engined fighters to give them greater compression for extra power and in other applications as well. Hitting the water jackets AND the extra CCs -- sounds like a win-win to me!

The lines on these things are 20 years old. I did my clutch with braided when I did the brake lines and it was a cheap, easy upgrade. It improved consistency as much as anything. Never thought to swap the slave, though. What sort of difference did you find when you swapped it all out?

I'm just now noticing that some parts are getting less available. Compared to a few years ago when I picked up my 5th gen, that is, some stuff that was to be found then is now dropping off. Fairing pieces, hoses, etc. Still a good selection of parts, though. Anyway The special nuts are part number 90304-HB3-771 and can be had anywhere. Just do a web search. They're about $4.50 each and Honda uses them on all kinds of motorcycles, so there's no problem with them going out of stock any time soon.

Don't be intimidated by this job. Especially of you have a second set of hands to help you spread the front pipes to fit the ports. I posted my issues as well as success to show you that there might be tiny problems, but they'll all be easily handled with patience. From reports so far, I think mine might have been the wobbliest of them -- nobody else has bumped into their fairing and everyone else has been able to get their outlet past the centerstand without dropping it -- so I bet you don't even have the minor hassles I did. Use Anti-Sieze grease. I used this kind: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/versachem-5169/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/grease---lube-16582/anti-seize-17774/31f81cb18df6/versachem-anti-seize-lubricant/13109/4776633?pos=8 I chose it because it was available at a local auto parts store and SF had used it as well. I live a few exits down the freeway, so we probably bought it at the same store. I would also be perfectly happy with the Permatex brand Anti Sieze. Comes in a similar tube. My mechanic friend uses a different brand of Copper bearing (maybe Loc-Tite) as well. The problem comes in taking the nuts off after they've been heated up and cooled down many hundreds of degrees over a couple of years. This helps with that. I used a dab of it on the threads of the o2 sensors, as well. Be careful not to get it near the holes, but I figured it should be used. When you buy an o2 sensor for a car or truck it'll normally come with antisieze already on it and so I assumed it was needed. And in this application it definitely won't hurt anything.

I think that was expected Scottie. Greg didn't torque the rear cylinders so they are just started, not fully seated at all.

Looks to me like 1 and 2 (with the seams properly facing in) would have been just fine. 4 is the oddball here, I swear my ports look a little different on the front, but I still think 4 would have been fine if properly placed. SF and Duc have done several header installs with 42mm, I'm using 42mm, all successfully. Mine sealed on the first try and have been through a dozen heat cycles and 100 miles, still good. SF tried multiple sizes and types before coming to the 42mm Delk recommendation. That said, You do what you need on your bike. You're a good mechanic and I'll be interested in your results. Please post what happens with the 41mm.

42mm. Mine did that, too. They're exactly as large as they can be, and one was even difficult to get in there, but they worked like a charm. I had to cram them into the ports, but the headers pushed them into place and I'm leak free, first try.

Hah -- yeah, falling in 70 mph traffic is worse than just the road rash. I've seen a tread come off truck tires before. It started whipping around, throwing pieces. Every which way -- one of the belts was attached and it was shredding against the underside of the box. I was in a car, but it was an impressive sight. It's totally unpredictable, and a pound of rubber at 70mph is not something I want to deal with on a bike. And, frankly, I don't want to be anywhere near a trailer, anyway. Even in best of circumstances anything from a gust of wind to some asshat on a cellphone can cause the truck to have to move or react. Even if I can see his eyes in his rear view mirror, I'm gonna get away from any truck on the freeway. Let that guy deal with his truck, and not have to worry about me. I really don't want to be the jerk who sneaks into the poor guy's blind spot when he needs to move over a lane, either.

Not sure how you wired that. Not having resistors sounds elegant, but a couple of Rs covered in cold shrink tape really don't get in the way, either. But I am interested in what you did there. I just plug the lambda sensor into the stock harness, and I assume it gets its power there. The MTB is powered with the rest of the RB stuff off a relay I wired to the tail light circuit, so it's isolated until the key is turned on. This afternoon I put it back to resistors in the sensor feeds. I left the stock o2 sensors plugged into the rapidbke harness, but unplugged the connectors on Honda side and put the eliminators there. This is how I was running it before my experiments. Without being plugged into the Honda end of the harness, I assume they're not being powered and, therefore, doing absolutely nothing here. In summary, I'm glad I did the experiments. I know now, for absolute fact, that rapidbike's docs are utter shite and that I was doing it properly before, correcting off the static map. I post all the experiments here so all others don't have to bother.

I live near enough to a freeway that I occasionally hear when these things explode. About once a year. It sounds like a shot. Lots of force. Those things are inflated to way more pressure than a car tire. Like 80-110psi, depending. Chunks of rubber can fly off like shrapnel. I stay far away, personally. Glad you're OK.

That's exactly the way the original Two Brothers pipes they were patterned off of fit. Everyone should expect this.

This is exactly what I expect. I just wanted to do my due diligence since Rapidbike say you should leave your stock sensors connected. Now I know for certain, with all other variables fixed, it doesn't work that way.

Just for giggles I did run it with RBo2 unchecked. Oddly, it cruised a little better. It wouldn't switch back and forth between modes as quickly, causing surges. But it would go DEEP into the cruise mode and stay there. Throttle would be really pathetic at 5-10% between 4 and 6K. It corrected, but just seemed to do the corrections more slowly. The map it made was hilarious. 1s, 2s, 3s, maybe occasional 4s one way or the other in most cells at higher RPM and throttle settins, and 11 (the max) in the half dozen cells surrounding 5000 at less than 30% throttle. No wonder it falls on its face! Whatever, it's a bust either way. Rapidbike doesn't solve this problem. Next time I pull the fairing I'll disconnect the sensors. Just conjecture, knowing how software works and guessing at Honda's tricks, I don't have actual data, but I think it got into a race condition where both the bike and the rapidbike were chasing each other until the correction maxed out. In fact, it would be fun to do some datalogging to see what's really going on, but I don't have a bluebike module and it's just curiosity for me, not anything that really matters. The fact is that this isn't working for me so I'm going to jam the resistors back in and let Rapidbike lean it off from the map Honda uses when it isn't getting sensor data. It's good enough for a power commander, it's good enough for me. I should actually buy some bung plugs and just take them out, in fact. Save some fugly wiring routing up behind the coolant tank.

Haven't tried RBo2 Active unchecked in this configuration. That's specifically supposed to be checked if you have stock sensors, according to rapidbike. I could flip it off and see what happens, but I don't know what to expect. Does the stock signal still pass the harness without RBo2 Active? And if so, will I throw the codes and go into the failure-rich map? Might be interesting to see. But I'm sure I won't be running it RBo2 Active with the sensors connected for long. I did try it before I got the MTB module and it most definitely didn't work well with stock sensors connected. Same problem, but worse as it takes a lot longer to correct the bad readings. That was why the eliminators went back in after I sold the PCIII, and it worked much better with eliminators. Basically, it works properly with not active and eliminators so that's what I ran most of the time, before and after I got MTB. I just decided to try it hooked to the stock sensors since I was in there with the fresh pipes, and I have my MAP sensor error fixed, so I am theoretically in the best possible state for things to be tested since I got the bike.

Of course I do. I did that long before the rapidbike, actually, but the rapidbike literally will not work properly with the Pair enabled. Why do you ask?