MooseMoose

I think that was expected Scottie. Greg didn't torque the rear cylinders so they are just started, not fully seated at all.

Looks to me like 1 and 2 (with the seams properly facing in) would have been just fine. 4 is the oddball here, I swear my ports look a little different on the front, but I still think 4 would have been fine if properly placed. SF and Duc have done several header installs with 42mm, I'm using 42mm, all successfully. Mine sealed on the first try and have been through a dozen heat cycles and 100 miles, still good. SF tried multiple sizes and types before coming to the 42mm Delk recommendation. That said, You do what you need on your bike. You're a good mechanic and I'll be interested in your results. Please post what happens with the 41mm.

42mm. Mine did that, too. They're exactly as large as they can be, and one was even difficult to get in there, but they worked like a charm. I had to cram them into the ports, but the headers pushed them into place and I'm leak free, first try.

That's exactly the way the original Two Brothers pipes they were patterned off of fit. Everyone should expect this.

Guys, don't stress over this. I'm not challenging it at all. I just wanted to know how it worked. Engineering wise, you can't put something on one mounting point and expect it to not rotate. You have to have two points, preferably with some spacing, to create the leverage necessary, and that one creates it by butting up against the case as the second point of contact. That's all the question was. Idle curiosity about a different design that solves this problem in an innovative way.

I'm not picking on your prototype. I do my fair share of brakeless sheet metal bending as well, and there's only so much you can do with a vice and a hammer. That one's a perfect proof of concept. I was just sort of thinking as I typed. Since it buts up against he case there it is going to have no problem rotating with just one mounting bolt is what I was thinking about. I don't know what Seb's shop has for brakes, though, but he's good enough at solving problems I'm confident he will come up with something that he can produce out of this.

I doubt it. It's outside the end of the sensor. I mean, I don't have it on my bike, but I'm 95% sure it can be made to clear and do its job just as it is.

Does that push against the frame? So it has a nice hard stop? This might be a great solution. One more bend for rigidity, a bump stop, and it'd be pretty elegant. Paint it black and I bet it just sort of disappears into the frame, visually. Nobody would pay attention who wasn't specifically looking for it. This is a nice proof of concept/hand tool prototype. I love clever little things like this.

Beat me to it. My 5th gen is standard. Torque these to spec, too. They have lot of threads for medium loctite, and a wavey washer. These do a great job at keeping them from vibrating out. There's nothing to be bought by overstressing the bolt.

Gee, I didn't think to try either of those things. It's not as close as it looks and there's a whole lot of pipe out of frame. There are only so many angles you can get to and I had no leverage to expand anything. Just plan on dropping the center stand on a 5th gen to feed it through. It's two fucking bolts and you probably should clean and regrease that mount anyway.

That's a 5th gen. I had to drop the stand.

You CANNOT fit that centerstand through the gap between the downpipes and the outlet on a 5th gen. At least on mine you can't. I just tried yesterday. You have to weave the centerstand up through it, which means taking it off, fitting it through, then ataching the centerstand before attaching the pipes. I took illustrative pictures.

You have to drop the headers to get the centerstand on. They basically have to go on together, in fact, lower the headers and thread the stand up between, bolt on the stand, then put the headers back into place, There's just no way to get the bolt in the right side space otherwise.

Payment sent. If I'd known I'd have handed you cash right there! Don't want you to be out of pocket after the scores of hours already contributed to this project. Those 8Gen are good charts, especially around the vtec dip. An honest 4% untuned and 7% tuned over stock is nothing to sneeze at on peaks, but that midrange is just lovely! Big, fat gains there.

Pipe stretching worked. The Delkovic slipon connector is not as nice a steel as the stuff on the new headers. But what do you expect? Question now is whether I can get it to line up with the wheel and bracket, one that will be answered in a day or two when I get to the screwing it all back together stage. Fingers crossed.