Jump to content

MooseMoose

Member Contributer
  • Content Count

    142
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

MooseMoose last won the day on March 2

MooseMoose had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

66 Great

About MooseMoose

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider

Profile Information

  • Location
    California
  • In My Garage:
    2001 VFR800

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. So, I haven't gotten any response yet. To the order or shipping info. Sent them an email asking to clarify what's up. I wonder if they ran out or something! Anyone else have a problem getting theirs?
  2. Just do what the manual says. Video dude's logic is flawed. The map connected electrically won't be messing with the fuel flow or idle in any way that will give you less accurate fueling. It'll go into default mode since it doesn't see any vacuum, and nothing will change (since it doesn't see any vacuum) as you adjust the valves. Remember, also, starter valves are a relative thing. You just want to get them balanced. There's no need to over-complicate any of this, or confuse people with shade about manuals being wrong. Take Honda's word over random youtube dude's word. The manual is right, follow it, and you'll get good results. It's an easy task once you've done it once and get past the "oh yeah, I understand now" moment.
  3. Are there charts for this? It would be an interesting experiment to see the results from. And I find it odd that a deflapped would make more power. With the flapper open it's pretty much the same short path. Seems counterintuitive to me. I'll be honest, part of the reason I got the my bike tuning on my rapidbike was to see how things changed the sensor data. But the other part was so I didn't have to worry about the fussy fuel mapping BS, which really is voodoo magic. Or tedious, which gets expensive if you don't have unlimited dyno time available to you. Just like that, if I shove a dB killer in my can for someplace like LagunaSeca, or my air cleaner starts to get dirty, I will still get a good mixture, without thinking about anything.
  4. 5th gen. Leave it connected. That's what my manual says. Disconnect that and the bike won't run right (or at all) so, yeah, there's that. My advice for 6th gen, do whatever the manual says. It's available for dl here, just follow it. It looks like you are trying to get the airbox off but still have a MAP from the image you posted, so likely you need the MAP connected. Just not attached to the airbox. Good luck. I have a 5th gen, and sync with it connected made an excellent positive contribution to smoothness.
  5. No need to be harsh here Mohawk. Honda didn't make something this complex on a whim. They had to have some reasoning behind it, else they'd never have dome something requiring that many parts. And your data isn't exactly apples to apples. Your larger airbox with a substantially greater volume doesn't have the compromises that Honda were trying to work with. I'm guessing they chose the airbox based on what they could cram under the tank with accessibility for maintenance, manufacturing concerns, fit to the throttlebody, and all of that associated stuff -- maybe including emissions and noise. But they aren't "restricting" anything. They just did what they did within the parameters they had to work with. I haven't seen this -- are there direct dyno comparisons from a stock airbox with and without the flapper and snorkel mods? Those charts might be interesting to see. And just interesting. Not to fight about, just to see because it is interesting to know how something like yanking the snorkel really affects intake. Most of us aren't going to go to the effort you did. One of the joys of your experimenting is that I can see what the difference is when you make a dual path intake or something ridiculous like that, and how it really works, but that's all a cumulative comparison that includes previous mods on your bike. Airboxes are like a capacitor in the hydraulic system. Changes in volume affect how they work, regardless of how restrictive they might be. I won't be able to get into it because I'm wholly unqualified to explain it and want to make that clear. There are a lot of voodoo magic elements to them, as well. But a significantly larger volume creates a slower change from state to state so an un-snorkeled larger capacity box is not a fair comparison. And, I think the point here, aren't we talking about lower than average mileage? Not all VFRs have shit mileage, this bike gets 10mpg lower than some other folks with stock bikes
  6. Good. So glad it isn't anything difficult. Now ride the damned thing so it doesn't get gummed up again! As a side note, when I got into mine I pulled the PAR valves and blocked them off. That changed idle slightly, so I knew they were leaking. Those things are not made to last. Then when I did hoses I had my injectors cleaned. I had to do a lot of fussing with the starter valves after as one was drippy. It made the throttle response difficult but now it idles as smooth as these engines will idle, I have no problem getting a reasonable 1250ish RPM, and it's passably smooth rolling off and on the throttle. I wouldn't be surprised if a little balancing on your starter valves is necessary.
  7. I refuse to look at these anymore. Not even pictures on the internets. I don't have the money or space for another bike or something more expensive, so I'm trying to avoid temptation. They're SO fun, though! Maybe when I've ridden this VFR into the ground I'll start looking again, because damn the Aprilia V4s are amazeballs. FJ09 is a good bike, too. And you can get them at a decent price. They aren't particularly pretty, but then neither is that BMW to my eye. Though that's all subjective. I'd totally look at one of those before an F800S if I wanted a sport tourer. I bet they're a lot easier to maintain than a beemer. Or at least less pricey on the parts.
  8. Where does the VFR give anything away to the BMW on handling? I don't understand that. I haven't ridden both, but neither have you. I think you're talking numbers again and, trust me, numbers do not equal handling in the twisties. A little suspension hygiene on my 5th gen and the thing handles amazingly well. 6th or 8th gen can be sleepers, too. They'll suffer a bit on the track compared to dedicated sportbikes, but on the street twisties they're suprisingly capable. I can't imagine the BMW had any real advantage. I may be wrong, maybe it is a lot more aggressive than I realize, but it doesn't have a reputation for anything more than just being a solid, honest bike. In the long run, it doesn't matter. You can't go wrong. They're both fine bikes for what you want, so just find the best deal and buy one. The beemer is a perfectly capable machine and it really isn't worth sweating details like this. In fact, I'm starting to wonder if you're trolling us, just for lolz. As for pillion, I've never ridden one on a 5th or 6th gen, so I can't speak to that. Some folks here with actual social skills might need to chime in.
  9. This is the point. Ride the bikes. Buy the one you find comfortable. NEITHER competes based on power. Or weight. Or anything like that. They're mid-displacement all 'rounders. If you want an assload of horsepower get a sportbike (any modern sportbike makes PLENTY of power) or for power and comfort a concourse or even a 7th gen VFR and you'll get gobs of it. You want light? Get any of the 600s out there and you'll get better horsepower with way less weight. But these aren't about that. They're about a good riding bike you can do whatever you want to. The weight tends to disappear when you're moving if a bike is well balanced. People regularly asked "Isn't that down on power?" or "Isn't that heavy?" on my 3rd gen when I was a kid, and, frankly, I never felt it except when I was pushing it into the garage. It worked for me -- once or twice a year on the track, 12K a year commuting and riding in the mountains. There were better track bikes, better touring bikes, but I was on something I could do both with and that was extremely comfortable to me, personally, whether on the freeway or dragging pegs. So see what is comfortable to you and don't worry about power or weight.
  10. Start with seafoam. If it doesn't do the trick you might need to pull the injectors and get 'em cleaned and flowed. There are little filters in them that the service will replace, and sometimes even if they improve the seafoam won't get the spray pattern good again. At the worst, if you run a tank of seafoam it'll help with the fuel system, regulator, and the like. That said, it could be other issues as well. Are you throwing any codes? But fuel in an unpickled bike that say for years is the number one likelihood.
  11. Thanks, that's what I thought. I really appreciate the confirmation, though. At this point I have a new air filter, reputed to have good flow, so I am comfortable just maintaining it going forward. One less thing to worry about.
  12. So, silly question. Is the big mouth K&N worth it over a piper cross? Right now I have a gently used small mouth K&N in my toolbox and a pipercross in the bike (it's a long story). Don't know that either made a lick of difference, but I had been led to believe the piperX flows a little more air than the stock and smaller K&N. Am I wrong in that assessment? Just thinking that getting another air filter might be a fool's errand if the difference is only slight.
  13. Did my purchase online. Glad Marc's happy with us. So strange I was thinking of doing this, then Stray organizes it all and posts it.
  14. Black is good. I hydrodipped mine, though.
  15. I was using a 2 line setup with a double banjo. Was a little fussy to bleed that banjo the first time, but once I got it bled it was beautiful, worked great, and was easy to maintain -- I tended to swap out the fluid when changing pads and bleeding was a breeze.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.