carlgustav

Thx. So where is the best place to get blocking plates? Do they have a gasket, or do you put the reeds back in for a seal (mine are crap)? The injectors have never been out, so that's a thought. The plugs look ok, but they're original iridiums and that center electrode just looks like a freaking pin point to my old eyes. ACE

Hey folks, Is this normal gunk in the PAIR valves? Can this impact smooth running? 6th gen with ~35K on the clock. Trying to figure out rough running under 4 - 5K RPM. TIA, ACE

I just use an exhaust spring puller, cost justified for me as it has multiple uses. I usually forget about the 'pennies' trick ... could also use washers me thinks ... ACE

If you just need a simple hack for the near term (and this is truly a hack), then get some of the anti-slip tape (Lowes, Skid Guard) and wrap just enough under the housing to clamp on. It's been working for me on my track bike for many seasons. It's not a proper fix and doesn't look great up close, but works ... ACE

I never knew the passenger pegs were rear sets, learn something new every day. Come to think of it, I have used them to stretch my legs out rearward on long trips so maybe they are . Is it my imagination or did he confuse an ABS sensor cable with a speedometer sensor cable? I'll give him benefit of doubt, maybe he meant ABS speed sensor cable. And this is great; "I need a bigger hammer" ... and oh yeah, "look how big it is inside". Wow, so much entertainment in just one episode ... ACE

You appear to be missing Caol Ila, and Laphroaig ... you should try to correct that . ACE

As in the case of Mello Dude, I've had a Shorai in my VFR since 8/2013, no problems. We don't get cold though . More recently put a Battery Tender lithium unit in my R6 track bike, no issue yet. And I have one in my Aprilia as well, also no problems ... ACE

Thx. I got the stuff to make a front brake res. mount for my R6, and to experiment with. The mount doesn't look great but it works, and track bikes occasionally fall down reducing good looks anyway. A caveat, for tight bends like 90, you get about one bend, as flexing this stuff will soon tear it. Random thoughts. Whatever material I end up using on this side needs to be strong enough to handle repeated bashing by the center stand, I don't think 1/16" sheet alum, or even mild steel, will work. Stronger material, looking at 1/8", is thicker, so the bolt sits out farther than designed. I wonder if strength is reduced too much with respect to the strain this bolt normally 'sees'? The stand curves outward, so a slight dual bend in the piece to compensate is indicated, but is not easy to create. Without fab shop tools and skills, this is a tedious process for something so minor. ACE

After spending the afternoon looking at ideas for a center stand stop (here and my own), and realizing they weren't suitable for me, I took inspiration from pics that Duc2V4 posted earlier. Made a mockup out of some perforated aluminum that's easy to bend/cut. This is working and holding the center stand where I want it. Now I need to use this template to cut/bend some thicker aluminum I have that's a somewhat bendable alloy. Or I may just get some sheet steel from the local hardware store, might be easier to work with. In no way will this look as good as the stuff many folks on this forum are capable of producing, but once finished and painted matte black, the piece should fade into the background and not be very noticeable. I may also put a piece of rubber on the end where the stand makes contact, we'll see. I need to make sure I put the hole for the bolt in the right spot to eliminate, or at least minimize, pivot movement. Even with the slot, it's pretty solid now, but over time a slot wouldn't work. One could get carried away and add an additional bend, drill a hole for the spring post, giving the piece another spot to jam up against. For me, that's more work than I want to do, and my fabrication skills are minimal. Maybe this helps, maybe it amuses, either way I felt the urge to post 😄. ACE

First, I'll add my thanx for the monumental effort put out to get these headers produced. I installed mine, prototype #2, 6th gen, Fri evening/Sat morning. Along the lines of the Delkovic pipe issue quoted, I had fun fitting a temporary muffler directly on the exit (measures 51mm I think). Required stretching with a 'custom' breaker bar/large socket 'tool' (I don't have access to a muffler guy, guess I could have gone to a shop ). Got it on there enough to fire up, have a listen, blip the throttle, etc. Also, I took a quick look at the stock pipe fit and I had some concern there. The stock down pipe has some material (gasket?) around the inside just back from the opening. This appears to measure about 47 - 48mm, not sure if that will work. I don't use the stock high mufflers so not a concern for me at this time. The little heat shield that sits between the O2 sensors is no longer usable. SF pointed out that the heat shield above the rear pipes may need trimming, and it did, I may not have taken off enough as it is. I did not feel any leaking around the pipes at the head, although my flanges were preformed (proto you know ) and the nuts traveled a good bit to get snug. I'm looking forward to the center stand stop becoming available, may have to rig something in the mean time. I have not re-installed the side heat shield (behind foot peg), peg, or bodywork yet, but I don't expect issues. Pleased so far ... ACE

I was one of those who put in some $ for the 'RVFR' header build way back when. I've also been keeping an eye on the various VFR header build discussions, just hoping for something reasonable. I think it's been fairly well established that even moderate HP gains for a 5th/6th gen VFR for moderate $ (subjective, I realize) just isn't happening (browse various projects on the site). The 'tipping point' of $1000, as pointed out by RVFR, is where I drew the line. A full system for up to $1000 for the VFR was reasonable to me, considering that just a decent 'can' costs from $300 up. I was also an early adopter of the Rapidbike offering (very happy with it still), which was costly then and doesn't really make economic sense for VFR owners, just my opinion. My intent at the time was to be able to add Nitrous (and wanted timing adjustments) for use as a 'passing gear', so occasional HP gain was the goal then. I dropped that idea long ago. Considering that my VFR is now worth maybe $4K, depending on source used to estimate, spending 25% of that on a header system is not easy to justify. The VFR is still a very competent all-rounder as she sits. All that being said, I will continue to follow the saga and see where things end up. Who knows, I may still be riding when something actually materializes. @Auspanglish - "get together in a cave and groove with a pict all at once" ... Pink Floyd reference? 😁. ACE

Well, sure is nice to know that a business rated top notch 11 yrs ago ... is still top notch . Don't see that too often. ACE

Nice. I have $ in on the 'go fund me' site, can they be applied towards possible purchase? The other thread is so long I can't remember if you've answered this question already, if so, sorry. ACE

Thx CR. My bike is basically stock, with a slip on. If the Tyga headers ever become a reality, I may go that route. But from what you wrote, that still may not require any re-mapping. I have the adaptive thingy (tech term) turned off due to issues that creep in over time. These showed up early on after installation & Yaman helped me set the adaptive map (?) back to 0s. That was good for a while, then about 1000 miles into a loop I rode last summer, the issue came back. So I just disabled that part & she runs smoothly. ACE

I have just a few RB related questions, I have the 'race' module, on a 6th gen. 1st, does picking up the 'you tune?' module negate the need to find a convenient dyno tuning shop? I'm not even sure there's anyone near me I'd trust to dyno my bike & try adjusting the RB maps. 2nd, I may be riding out to CO to watch the PPIHC activities, how might the RB module behave with altitude changes? 3rd, I just replaced plugs and noticed my idle speed dropped a few hundred rpm, normal? I guess this last question strays from RB questions, but just wonder if there's a relationship? TIA. ACE