carlgustav

Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I've wondered on/off for years about pulling the stock turn signals and adding short ducts in their place to direct air towards the radiators (or just into the area) when moving. If any additional airflow is actually effective, then what do you do about turn signals? I've not seen that anyone has tried this so it may not be practical.

As long as you're in there fooling with the fan 'system', you might search the forum for info about upgrading or enhancing same. I believe I have seen posts about using an RC51 fan, override switches, and so on. I can't find the specifics at the moment, and my memory isn't what it used to be, but the info was out there. I have an override switch, and a 2nd fan in place, to use when idling in traffic. Just a thought ...

Being a single malt guy myself, I'm curious what constitutes a good morning whiskey. Somewhat on-topic as alcohol is a social lubricant of sorts ... 😀

I never knew the passenger pegs were rear sets, learn something new every day. Come to think of it, I have used them to stretch my legs out rearward on long trips so maybe they are . Is it my imagination or did he confuse an ABS sensor cable with a speedometer sensor cable? I'll give him benefit of doubt, maybe he meant ABS speed sensor cable. And this is great; "I need a bigger hammer" ... and oh yeah, "look how big it is inside". Wow, so much entertainment in just one episode ... ACE

Thx. I got the stuff to make a front brake res. mount for my R6, and to experiment with. The mount doesn't look great but it works, and track bikes occasionally fall down reducing good looks anyway. A caveat, for tight bends like 90, you get about one bend, as flexing this stuff will soon tear it. Random thoughts. Whatever material I end up using on this side needs to be strong enough to handle repeated bashing by the center stand, I don't think 1/16" sheet alum, or even mild steel, will work. Stronger material, looking at 1/8", is thicker, so the bolt sits out farther than designed. I wonder if strength is reduced too much with respect to the strain this bolt normally 'sees'? The stand curves outward, so a slight dual bend in the piece to compensate is indicated, but is not easy to create. Without fab shop tools and skills, this is a tedious process for something so minor. ACE

After spending the afternoon looking at ideas for a center stand stop (here and my own), and realizing they weren't suitable for me, I took inspiration from pics that Duc2V4 posted earlier. Made a mockup out of some perforated aluminum that's easy to bend/cut. This is working and holding the center stand where I want it. Now I need to use this template to cut/bend some thicker aluminum I have that's a somewhat bendable alloy. Or I may just get some sheet steel from the local hardware store, might be easier to work with. In no way will this look as good as the stuff many folks on this forum are capable of producing, but once finished and painted matte black, the piece should fade into the background and not be very noticeable. I may also put a piece of rubber on the end where the stand makes contact, we'll see. I need to make sure I put the hole for the bolt in the right spot to eliminate, or at least minimize, pivot movement. Even with the slot, it's pretty solid now, but over time a slot wouldn't work. One could get carried away and add an additional bend, drill a hole for the spring post, giving the piece another spot to jam up against. For me, that's more work than I want to do, and my fabrication skills are minimal. Maybe this helps, maybe it amuses, either way I felt the urge to post 😄. ACE

First, I'll add my thanx for the monumental effort put out to get these headers produced. I installed mine, prototype #2, 6th gen, Fri evening/Sat morning. Along the lines of the Delkovic pipe issue quoted, I had fun fitting a temporary muffler directly on the exit (measures 51mm I think). Required stretching with a 'custom' breaker bar/large socket 'tool' (I don't have access to a muffler guy, guess I could have gone to a shop ). Got it on there enough to fire up, have a listen, blip the throttle, etc. Also, I took a quick look at the stock pipe fit and I had some concern there. The stock down pipe has some material (gasket?) around the inside just back from the opening. This appears to measure about 47 - 48mm, not sure if that will work. I don't use the stock high mufflers so not a concern for me at this time. The little heat shield that sits between the O2 sensors is no longer usable. SF pointed out that the heat shield above the rear pipes may need trimming, and it did, I may not have taken off enough as it is. I did not feel any leaking around the pipes at the head, although my flanges were preformed (proto you know ) and the nuts traveled a good bit to get snug. I'm looking forward to the center stand stop becoming available, may have to rig something in the mean time. I have not re-installed the side heat shield (behind foot peg), peg, or bodywork yet, but I don't expect issues. Pleased so far ... ACE

Well, sure is nice to know that a business rated top notch 11 yrs ago ... is still top notch . Don't see that too often. ACE

Thx CR. My bike is basically stock, with a slip on. If the Tyga headers ever become a reality, I may go that route. But from what you wrote, that still may not require any re-mapping. I have the adaptive thingy (tech term) turned off due to issues that creep in over time. These showed up early on after installation & Yaman helped me set the adaptive map (?) back to 0s. That was good for a while, then about 1000 miles into a loop I rode last summer, the issue came back. So I just disabled that part & she runs smoothly. ACE

I have just a few RB related questions, I have the 'race' module, on a 6th gen. 1st, does picking up the 'you tune?' module negate the need to find a convenient dyno tuning shop? I'm not even sure there's anyone near me I'd trust to dyno my bike & try adjusting the RB maps. 2nd, I may be riding out to CO to watch the PPIHC activities, how might the RB module behave with altitude changes? 3rd, I just replaced plugs and noticed my idle speed dropped a few hundred rpm, normal? I guess this last question strays from RB questions, but just wonder if there's a relationship? TIA. ACE

Wow ... ACE

Well, I emailed Yaman at RB about my issue. I have to give this guy props for customer service, he knows what the term means. I emailed him in the evening after work, & I got a response that same nite. I called the next morning from work, & we arranged a phone call for later the same day after I got home. I get home, hook up my laptop to my RB module on the bike & call Yaman back. He gets on line with me as soon as he can (had to finish a call with another customer), logs into my laptop & runs the RB program. He noticed some issues with my map, made changes, & loaded the modified map to my module. This all took about 20 minutes. He also explained some things about the RB operation for me. Now it's up to me to put in around 200 miles & let him know how the changes work out. I'm riding at the track this weekend so it will be a little while before I can do this. In any case, whether the changes work or not, I appreciate the time/effort this guy puts in for his customers. ACE

So I wired the RB module back in, hooked up my laptop, fired up the software, and found the 'average cells' box. It is not checked. I hooked up the O2 sensors opposite of the instructions and on the 'status' screen, I saw 0.0 for 'O2 sensor 1 in' and 'O2 sensor 1 out'. I reversed the connections and then saw 0.5 for these items. So, I'm guessing the instructions are correct? I'm assuming 0.0 is not right for the O2 sensor in/out readings. ACE

@CRRC46, I saw your post about the O2 sensor check, however, I have to admit to some ignorance with respect to understanding what you wrote. In any case, I've learned over the years that when something goes wrong in an area I've had my hands in, the 1st place to look is the last place I touched . So I put everything back to stock to rule out some other problem with the bike. Now that that's done, I can look again at my RB setup. Since there are only 2 ways to hook up the O2 sensors, O1 to white & O2 to black, or vice versa, I can try the opposite connection to my 1st attempt & see if all is well? @HSNZ, the RBO2 box is 'ticked' (checked). I did not see the 'average cells' box, but that may be b/c I just hooked the RB module into my laptop while it was not wired into the bike? Thx all, ACE

@HSNZ, yes, I have the RB module connected per instructions to the stock O2 sensor cables. Went out again this morning with stock setup, ran various gears over straight stretches and thru sweepers. Steady throttle in various gears & steady throttle briefly in V-tec range. She runs fine stock, I'm now convinced . So, I'll take my laptop into the garage, hook up the RB module, & check the items you mentioned ... thanx. I've read that RB customer service is top-notch, so that will be my next step ... ACE

@HighSide, I saw your post after I had already re-connected the stock cabling. Went out yesterday for a 45min ride, no issues (other than snatchy throttle, abrupt v-tec, the usual). So something with my RB setup is not right, be that the module, or cabling. I don't believe I have any leaks in the exhaust system. I also don't think I should have to adjust the map that came with the RB module already set up for a 6th gen VFR800, so soon after installing? I'm going to get some more seat time with her stock, then put the RB back in and try again. Maybe I can compare the map in my module against what should be there by default, and see if there are diffs? I'm a bit disappointed with the setup so far considering total cost ... Thx, ACE

Well, things have gotten worse. Now when riding at steady RPM, she feels like I'm starting to run out of gas, or have lost a cylinder. As of yet, this feeling doesn't occur at full throttle runs, which have to be carefully done on my local roads , IOW, no runs to very high speeds. I'm going to pull the RB module out (just connections), restore stock connections, and ride to see if maybe the issue is something else ... ACE

Yep, that was the cabling I fed over in front of the battery and down the LH side ... On my short commute in to work this morning, she felt stable running at about 45mph for a few miles. My commute is just not very long ... ACE Oh, I just realized you asked 'how', not 'if' ... um, basically according to the instructions, oxy sensor 1 labeled cable to the connector of the color stated in the instructions, I forget if that is white or black ...

Ah, premium, thanx for the reminder, I forgot about that. I've got a mix of 89/91 in there now, oh well. I've only ridden short distances so far but the seat of the pants feel is very good in the around town gears, 3 & 4. However, I did notice on a longer ride on Sat. that she seems to be 'hunting' at steady throttle around 50mph. Didn't seem to be too bad, maybe she's 'tuning'? ACE