ScottieDucati

Well I should say I have only done valves on gear drive’s. No experience with Vtech whatsoever. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The biggest trouble doing valves is getting all the stuff off the bike. It’s a perfect time to send injectors out for cleaning, and access the coolant cross pipes to make sure their gaskets aren’t knackered. The valves themselves are easy to check. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update after replacing the steering head bearings in my ZRX. Head-shake at speed after letting go of bars is gone. Same tire, same balance. I did replace worn brake pads and cleaned the rotor surfaces for bedding in. Front end feels super tight and planted now. Spent a decent bit of time cleaning and lubing the speedo drive assembly, also lubed the drive cable well and greased where the cable slots in. Couldn’t be happier to get in another ride on Godzilla. Hot damn these bikes always impress. Old lower bearing: Visible wear on upper bearing race: Oooo shiney: Lower bearing pressed back on: Noticed my pads were near spent. Found a new set of Brembo pads upstairs... Gone for a shake down and bedded in the front brake pads. Now time for an oil and filter change. Done! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s called the internet and tone. I’ve had my fair share of shit tone, just move on man. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Definitely a bit of a twat there. But a cheap chain can be bad or kink fairly quickly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great post on the rear spindle and a lesson I learned the hard way racing my NC30. I’d contend on the deceleration shimmy but we’ll see how she feels after I replace my bearings (on my ZRX)...Which relatedly or not are visibly due. I plan to reassemble with new and no other changes and will see if the headshake improves. Could definitely be a worn tire, but an interesting test for posterity... I can then test again with new front tire fitted. It’ll be a while tho.... 2 kiddos at home and one’s still fairly new! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I won’t relive that discussion but All Balls recommends the same as OE torque for their tapered bearings. Sounds nuts I know, I’d say safe bet is that’s the upper limit. Biggest thing to do is let the weight of the bike back on the front and help it all settle in before torque. Then with front end off the ground again, check steering lock-to-lock for smooth sweep and shouldn’t have loads of resistance. If it’s a bit sticky (like stuck in molasses feel), back off a tiny bit. Always good to check the steering feel after some miles too. Often times they’ll settle further and need another quick tighten. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And I’ll add that head bearings can also result in uneven front tire wear! Sounds like you’ve got an answer. I went with tapered for my 5th gen as 12k miles seemed an unacceptable interval to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take your bike and whilst riding around 40 mph in a straight line... let go of the bars. Do they start into a headshake? This is a classic sign of worn out steering head bearings. Mine were shot before 12k miles (when I bought it). Just had my ZRX experience the symptom from above and sure enough... with the front end off the ground I get some play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My set might sit on the shelf for this season.... just didn’t want to miss out! First time in a decade someone actually pulled something like this off! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are there no solid DIY threads or videos on YouTube? I had no clue what I was getting into doing timing chain guides on my car, the internet has everything you need but specialty tools! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess I’d rather a tinge of condescension than propagating the idea maintenance can simply be ignored. Apologies for the tone. I really do believe ensuring your bike is safe and maintained is 100% an issue of personal responsibility. Then again I almost got killed when a buddy failed to notice his car’s tires were utterly bald. In a state that doesn’t require inspections no less. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If any mechanic tells you they’ve learned everything they can they’re not worth paying. I’m always learning, started learning how to check valves about a decade ago. By now I’m comfortable doing top ends and basic timing. Working on bottom end stuff now. Every time is a learning opportunity and more should view maintenance as valuable lessons to be learned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I offered the option to have it done for you, but either way maintaining a vehicle is a responsibility. I’m fairly sure I’d be on solid legal ground in terms of liability as well if you want to split hairs. No you don’t need to do it all yourself. Yes you absolutely need to maintain your equipment. Do valve adjustments really amount to a safety issue? Well maybe not but I’ve seen some carnage as a result of engine failure. Simply not doing it because it’s hard or expensive is irresponsible and honestly it’s just sad the lack of knowledge or respect for what mechanical maintenance means. Personally I paid to maintain my race bikes and learned to do it myself when inevitably I ran out of funds. If I couldn’t pay, or couldn’t fix it myself, I wouldn’t play. Yes my background was solidly in a racing environment for many years and I’m glad it was. Many lessons learned the hard way where the consequence was failing tech, or breaking equipment or breaking myself. Motorcyclists take their own lives into their hands every time we ride. Show some respect for yourself and others by learning how and when to maintain your bike. It’s almost as if the Owners Manual for every bike ever made tells you everything you need to know about maintenance for a reason. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The valve adjustment is probably only a risk to yourself getting stranded. But to consider a major maintenance item unnecessary is ridiculous. It’s more the philosophy at play and coming from a road racing background you literally are responsible for your and everyone else’s safety. From basic fastener securement to maintaining all systems to a high standard. Once you actually master your mechanical skills you see with your own eyes that yes they go out of spec and also what can happen if left alone. VFR800+ is slightly better than my NC30 engines that can strip the chrome from your rockers, hammer valve seats, guides and stems.. wreaking havoc on the top end. No matter how well engineered these bikes are nothing is immune from poor maintenance, heat, and materials degradation through repeated stress. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk