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ScottieDucati

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ScottieDucati last won the day on March 7

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About ScottieDucati

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    Privateer

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  • Location
    Boston
  • In My Garage:
    1992 Honda VFR400R - Race
    1992 Ducati 851 - Race
    1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
    2001 Honda VFR800

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  1. FWIW used calipers and masters that’ll work are short $ on fleabay Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Rip out all the brake stuff, swap the left fork leg lower for a VTR leg, new calipers** and brake lines, and done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Yes, should go on the sprocket side IIRC. Pit-Bull is quality stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Gasket discussion starts around post 70 or so of this thread. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Local dyno tuner won’t tune older FI bikes without injector cleaning and has been going up a size on pilot jets for carb’s. Ethanol is nasty stuff, and leaves a hard varnish behind, which over time narrows passages. I guess like valve adjustments, some folks don’t think it’s needed. I’ve seen spray pattern tests that say otherwise. Made a huge difference when I sent my BMW V8’s injectors out to Marren Fuel Injection too... all 8 were squirting before, but flow rates were pretty variable before cleaning. That said we are in New England and most bikes are laid up for a few months each year around here. To each their own I guess... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Guess I’ll have to add a couple things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Well I should say I have only done valves on gear drive’s. No experience with Vtech whatsoever. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. The biggest trouble doing valves is getting all the stuff off the bike. It’s a perfect time to send injectors out for cleaning, and access the coolant cross pipes to make sure their gaskets aren’t knackered. The valves themselves are easy to check. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Update after replacing the steering head bearings in my ZRX. Head-shake at speed after letting go of bars is gone. Same tire, same balance. I did replace worn brake pads and cleaned the rotor surfaces for bedding in. Front end feels super tight and planted now. Spent a decent bit of time cleaning and lubing the speedo drive assembly, also lubed the drive cable well and greased where the cable slots in. Couldn’t be happier to get in another ride on Godzilla. Hot damn these bikes always impress. Old lower bearing: Visible wear on upper bearing race: Oooo shiney: Lower bearing pressed back on: Noticed my pads were near spent. Found a new set of Brembo pads upstairs... Gone for a shake down and bedded in the front brake pads. Now time for an oil and filter change. Done! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. It’s called the internet and tone. I’ve had my fair share of shit tone, just move on man. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Definitely a bit of a twat there. But a cheap chain can be bad or kink fairly quickly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Great post on the rear spindle and a lesson I learned the hard way racing my NC30. I’d contend on the deceleration shimmy but we’ll see how she feels after I replace my bearings (on my ZRX)...Which relatedly or not are visibly due. I plan to reassemble with new and no other changes and will see if the headshake improves. Could definitely be a worn tire, but an interesting test for posterity... I can then test again with new front tire fitted. It’ll be a while tho.... 2 kiddos at home and one’s still fairly new! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I won’t relive that discussion but All Balls recommends the same as OE torque for their tapered bearings. Sounds nuts I know, I’d say safe bet is that’s the upper limit. Biggest thing to do is let the weight of the bike back on the front and help it all settle in before torque. Then with front end off the ground again, check steering lock-to-lock for smooth sweep and shouldn’t have loads of resistance. If it’s a bit sticky (like stuck in molasses feel), back off a tiny bit. Always good to check the steering feel after some miles too. Often times they’ll settle further and need another quick tighten. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. And I’ll add that head bearings can also result in uneven front tire wear! Sounds like you’ve got an answer. I went with tapered for my 5th gen as 12k miles seemed an unacceptable interval to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Take your bike and whilst riding around 40 mph in a straight line... let go of the bars. Do they start into a headshake? This is a classic sign of worn out steering head bearings. Mine were shot before 12k miles (when I bought it). Just had my ZRX experience the symptom from above and sure enough... with the front end off the ground I get some play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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