ScottieDucati

I’ve got maybe half a dozen different T-shirt’s from Blipshift, mostly car stuff from google but bike stuff is around from time to time. Here’s one of my faves. http:// https://www.blipshift.com/products/inlinefourus-rex?utm_source=blipshift+Updates&utm_campaign=e9fd6978ae-Inlinefourus_Rex_10_4_2016&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_0513fd2cb9-e9fd6978ae-345897081&mc_cid=e9fd6978ae&mc_eid=82c519f7b6 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

11,800 miles on mine..... got a ways to go [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Plus with a race bike who cares.... you’re gonna be servicing that area regularly and bearings are cheap. Tapered takes the hits from heavy bikes and bad roads and withstand infrequent adjustment (or being left at 3.3 lbs.-ft. [emoji6]) better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll surely be calling AllBalls to feel them out. Their instructions are clear to use OE specs. Which admittedly, seems like it could be off a bit. What I think it boils down to is a mix of service manual procedure (set, loosen, relighted) and checking your work at the end. If using OE torque could crack the head, I’d imagine the liability is just as much of an issue. For the record I never suggested 33, my 5th gen manual uses 25. I reckon the happy place for tapered is below either of these... but you can start there and back it off using feel (moving triples through their sweep). The only reason you need torque (at least initially) is to seat everything and take up the slack... the secondary torque is a starting point and completely fine (even as per the manual) to back off for final spec. I think far more issues are encountered when folks don’t seat the races properly than over torquing them. You’re going to notice too much torque pretty easily. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which was at the end of my post..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All I ask is a source that backs up the opinion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s yet another source: https://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/cpp-all-balls/installation-guides/motorcycle-intallation-guides/steering-bearing-upgrade/ Note: Again for the third time, with sources... the thing here is to follow procedure in the manual. Tighten, rotate, re-tighten. Use OE torque specs. Then, make sure you aren’t a numpty... Critical point: FEEL FOR RESISTANCE. Adjust accordingly. The problem with the folks here yammering on about their experience, against factory procedure and against manufacturer installation instructions is you may have the feel for the job, or may have been lucky. Someone coming here for advice does not have this experience and suggesting to not follow every available piece of documentation is disingenuous and potentially dangerous. If you don’t have a source to back up your claims, they are worthless. Yes you can over torque. That’s why the procedures say to check the sweep of the triples afterwards for any resistance and loosen if needed. The fucking pedantic level of ridiculousness on this thread is staggering. I post manuals and bearing manufacturer supplied materials and some keyboard jockeys says they’re incorrect? Find a reputable source and link it. Bottom line, someone trying to wing it off feel and not torque properly is going to have more issues than following the manual and documentation provided by the bearing manufacturer.

Weird how both Honda and AllBalls say different. Must be total coincidence doing head bearings in two 5th gens in the past few months and following procedure and both are flawless. Did a Triumph over the winter as well, tapered bearings, same result. With the front wheel in the air the bars turn without resistance, and the ride is fantastic. I’ve been racing and maintaining my own chassis for 15+ years. Gotta be full of it I guess. Last time I had my chassis serviced by the local suspension shop, the bike was unrideable on corner entry. The culprit? Head bearing adjust nut was too loose and the front end clicked. FWIW, spec for 5th gen is 25 ft lbs. and torquing takes place with the front end unloaded. And done in two stages. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What in the bloody hell? We are discussing tapered steering head bearings. Not wheel bearings. Bottle caps? Cotter pins? I’m not talking about my car, either. I honestly cannot make sense of your English.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And AllBalls says to use the same torque as a traditional bearing. The bearing being replaced in their instructions, is a traditional ball bearing. Same torque. Same procedure. I don’t know how to be any more clear. You are incorrect in your understanding of bearings and their installation procedure. This is not my opinion. It is according to every referenced source the manufacturer of said tapered bearings provides.

Did you miss the link I posted previously, from AllBalls themselves... regarding their tapered bearings, stating to torque to OE spec? Here ya go again... https://www.allballsracing.com/media/productshowcase/AllBallssteeringbearinginstallation.pdf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wheel bearings are sealed and don’t have a torque specification for lateral loading at all. Gotta love forums, when you can post exact manual references from Honda and the bearing supplier and get flak... You find a way that works for you and best of luck to you. Whatever you did in the Army, should’ve had a manual and procedure. If that goes against factory instructions I’m not sure what to tell you. If you’re here asking questions, you’ve done it wrong. If your first ride helps set the races, you installed them incorrectly. Follow the book. It works. Zero issues every time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PS if your triple clamp pinch bolts need to be jammed open, your triples are probably “twisted” or unevenly set in the clamps. That is not normal. Try loosening lower clamps and bouncing the bike, then tighten a bit and loosen top clamp and bounce. Apply a few hits of force laterally at each stage can help if the twist is visually observable. It was obvious my bike had a tip over at stand still and tweaked the triples. Not bent anything but since these clamps are a pressure fit any hit can cause something to slip and start to bind up. Some loosely goosey bouncing around and some careful persuasion with a rubber mallet got her nice and straight again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a tip. There’s a wrench for the steering stem nut in your OE tool kit. It will basically pop itself off with too much torque if you don’t have a torque wrench handy. Spec per manual FWIW is 25 Nm. And you set it, turn the triples back and fourth 5 times and set it again. I reckon the Honda tool is designed to not exceed this torque. “Finger tight” to the bearing adjustment nut (lower of two lock nuts) is NOT a spec of any kind, this is only for the UPPER lock nut but the manual also says to turn past finger tight up to 90 degrees rotation to align the tab. FWIW I have tapered as well, followed manual procedure but used OE tool. Rides flawlessly. AllBalls says to used factory torque specifications (see Step 9c in the link below), absolutely zero mention of not needing the same torque because of their design. https://www.allballsracing.com/media/productshowcase/AllBallssteeringbearinginstallation.pdf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got the AllBalls head bearings in, and DMr fork cartridges installed. Took her today for an inspection sticker and little shake down ride... [emoji1305] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk