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About Neo2122

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    2006 VFR800

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  1. Yea they do as long as you cut the cans on the forward side (side normally facing the front of the bike) of the weld they will come out. This particular exhaust had already been made louder by removing the two little pipe tips on each can. If yours is bone stock, when you cut on the forward side of the weld, the ends wont just fall off like mine did, as they are attached to the baffle inside the can still. But that is no problem at all since you are removing the baffle! So just give them a good tug and everything will slide right out all the same! Really simple mod to do, Id suggest an angle grinder with a cutting wheel over a dremel though... it will take a fraction of the time that way! lol
  2. I measured once before but I forget, I can measure that again here sometime and get back with you on it, but I didn't notice any power difference at all after doing the mod
  3. I am too but after doing A LOT of reading there appears to be a safe zone as long as you don't exceed and inch you are good, and this is just a lil bit longer than 3/4 of an inch so it's definitely good, plus those ARP wheel studs are way strong on top of that, I've put on another 3000-4000 miles since making this thread and have had zero issues, is trust this bike in any situation
  4. Hahaha yes very much so😉 but actually this exhaust mod is may about 2/3 to 3/4 as loud as removing the exhaust entirely, just to put it in perspective. And I'm thinking about modifying the baffles I removed so I could reinstall them and bring it down to about 1/2 as loud as removing the whole exhaust. When you remove the baffles, you'll see that they consist of a mesh-fiberglass-mesh shell and inside that are 3 chambers with pipes going every which way. I'm going to try and remove these chambers from the baffles so I'm left only with the mesh and fiberglass shell. After which, I'll reinsert it into the cans which should bring the volume down even more. The way the exhaust is now ins't "too loud", but its right on that borderline... haha and if it wasn't for my neighbors I probably would just leave it the way it is!😂 But all that being said I'll be pretty busy for a while so idk when I'll get around to doing that baffle modification, but I'll post in here when I do tho!
  5. Just some more information for ya guys, So the cost of this rear wheel mod was cheaper than buying another stock rear rim, that's why I did it in the first place, but if I remember right it was about: ~$100 for the rim ~$140 for the tire ~$20 for mount and balance of tire (local motorcycle shop is awesome!) ~$35 for the ARP extended studs ~$20 for the spacer (although the spacer may be more or less based on how you get it or who makes it for you, since it may need to be machined) ~$0 for getting the studs pressed in and out for me, since I have a buddy that works in a shop, this may cost $10-$40 if I had to guess from any local shop to do ~$20 for set of 4 splined lug nuts with splined socket tool So in total about $335 including the price of the tire plus maybe a little more if you have to pay someone to press in your studs, and this is just a best guess, I did all this 2 and a half years ago so my memory may be foggy or prices may have changed. But hope this helps!
  6. Here's the links (VFRD and VFRW) to the threads I made about the exhaust mod I did: VFRD: VFRW: http://vfrworld.com/threads/vfr800-gutted-exhaust-mod.55392/ Feel free to ask any questions about it over there!
  7. I also made this thread in VFRW so it may be good try and bounce between each forum in case one gets more traffic than the other! http://vfrworld.com/threads/vfr800-custom-aftermarket-rear-wheel-modification.55391/#post-586219 Hopefuly this will peak some interest in both forums!
  8. Hello all! So I did this mod a couple years ago and I've absolutely loved it! I originally did it to my first vfr800 which was a silver 2003 non-abs model. I put about 17,000 miles on that bike with about 8,000 - 10,000 of those miles after I did this mod. Unfortunately I was in an accident and the bike got totaled. I skipped between a couple other bikes but eventually bought myself another vfr! My lovely white 2006 abs viffer I currently ride. I swapped the aftermarket rear wheel from my old bike onto the new one right away and I've put 3,000 miles on it since then! If done right this mod works amazingly! I trust my bike any distance on any road, from the city to highway, and even the mountains to the canyons! Rain or shine! When it comes down to performance, I've never noticed any less after the mod was done as compared to stock. With the new rim I went with and the wider tire, the rear wheel for me weighs about 3 pounds or so more than the stock one did, sure That may make an incremental difference to a very experienced track rider but these bikes aren't designed for track only use and they are far from the fastest bikes out there, so to me, the extra weight is well worth the look! And again all that being said I've never noticed any kind of performance loss, I've burned trough my chicken strips with easy and the bike seems to have all of the get up and go that it did before. So I definitely recommend this mod! Before doing this mod I referred to many of the other forums where people have discussed this. And I took a little bit from each of them to get it done. I still recommend reading through all of those as well as this one to get as much of an understanding of it as possible. The biggest problem for most people was finding a good rim that worked well with a motorcycle tire. I don't remember exactly what brands, but there are some brands that you definitely want to avoid and others that are very safe to use. I found that out from reading those other forums and hearing how some people struggled while others did not. This issue comes from the fact that you are using a car rim with a motorcycle tire and they aren't exactly designed for one another. That being said each rim manufacturer varies somewhat from one another so some rim work great while other not at all to mount the tire to. The rim brand I went with is NinjaWheels, and the exact rim I bought was the Ninja NJ11. My tire guy had to use a little extra elbow grease to get that tire on there but it went on without any problems and hasn't caused me a single issue since! Now the rim I bought was a 17"x7" rim with a 40mm offset. This offset was too large to fit center when mounted to the hub. So in order to correct the offset, a spacer was necessary. I took a spacer I already had and had it machined to fit my application. I drew up some specs for it in the picture below. Its a 20mm spacer with the 4x100mm holes drilled for the studs to go through and the center cut out in a way to maintain strength and cut weight. (This particular spacer also had 4x114.3mm holes drilled in it that are unnecessary). It may be worth noting that this 20mm spacer was required since the rim used was a 40mm offset. If you choose a different rim with a different offset, the spacer and stud length will need to be adjusted accordingly. With the VFR, I wanted a good sport touring tire, and with the rim being a 7 inch wide rim, my options were limited. That being said I found an amazing tire (that I've bought again for the rear and the front) which is surprisingly, the Shinko Verge 011. Now yes, you dont got to tell me twice about the general perception of shinko's, I know that alot of them are just trash, BUT NOT THE 011 VERGE!!! Haha Since I was searching for a 200/50r17 tire, the Verge kept popping up as one of the few sport touring tires offered in this size, and after reading countless reviews almost entirely 5 star rating, I was sold enough to give it a shot. Now I've used dunlop Q3's and Pilot Road 4's before and they are both amazing tires, but the Verge is honestly just as good! It's a dual compound tire so it's center offers incredible longevity while the sides are very soft and sticky allowing for excellent cornering in the twisties! Plus it does absolutely amazing in the rain! And on top of all that, you just cannot beat its price point of ~$140! Lastly, since you are using a spacer for the rear rim you will need longer wheel studs to account for that. I went with ARP Extended Wheel Studs. Now I used 12.5*1.5 wheel studs that were 2.5 inches long but I ended up having the cut just a little bit off of the tips so that my lug nuts could secure all the way tight. If you can find 2 inch long wheel studs those would probably work, but for the peace of mind that you have as much threads in there making contact with the lug nuts, you can do what I did and just remove any extra as necessary with a hack saw. Also, With this specific rim, there was not enough space for normal lug nuts to fit so i bought a 4 pack of splined lug nuts with the special splined socket that came with it. These are slimmer in profile and fit into the lugnut holes into the rim perfectly. This may or may not be a problem for you depending if you bought the same brand rim as me. One thing worth noting here is that the rear wheel studs are pressed in and will require you to take the hub (once its removed from the bike) to a shop where they can then use a hydraulic press to press out the old studs and press in the new ones. There are ways to do this at home but with this sort of thing I didn't want to risk messing up anything or damaging my hub, so I had a friend at a shop do it for me. After all of that the final thing you need is to slightly modify you chain guard by cutting off on small part of it so it will not rub on your rear wheel. The wheel will have about 1/4 inch of clearance between it and your swing arm when its all done and tight. The slight modification done to the chain guard can be seen in the picture below. Summary List of Parts Used: Ninja NJ11 Rim, 17"x7" size, 40mm Offset, 4*100mm bolt pattern 200/50r17 rear tire, Shinko Verge 011 Custom made, 20mm thick, aluminum wheel spacer (as seen in pictures above) Extend ARP Wheel Studs, 12.5*1.5, 2.5 inches long (with some of the tip of the bolts removed for secure fit) Slight modification to the chain guard (to eliminate any wheel rubbing) The exact process of doing this mod consists of: 1) With the bike on its center stand and in first gear (and possibly with the help of a friend holding the rear brake) brake loose the large hub nut on the left hand side of the swing arm 2) Remove the rear wheel and real break caliper 3) Remove the large hub nut on the left hand side of the bike 4) Loosen the chain bolt and then put all of the slack in the chain 5) Pull the chain off of the rear sprocket and let it hang down onto the ground 6) Pull off the left hand side of the rear hub assembly (the big bowl like piece the sprocket is bolted to) 7) Slide out the rear axle/hub out the right side of the swing arm 😎 Replace the wheel studs as described above 9) Reassemble in reverse order of the steps described above with the new wheel And here's Just a bunch of pics of the bike with the wheel! Please wheel free to ask any questions or comment below! 
  9. I recently modded my stock vfr800 exhaust! Check out this viseo to see how I did it! Let me know if you have any questions!
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