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Everything posted by SEBSPEED

  1. Go to NAPA, pick up a length of bulk fuel hose and a brass 90deg elbow of the correct size for said hose. SAE equivalent will be 1/4" or 5/16" for 6mm or 8mm hose, respectively. Couple extra hose clamps and you'll be good to go.
  2. Aftermarket VFR750 (90-97) radiator with custom brackets, on a 99 VFR800. Coupled with a larger aftermarket (air) oil cooler. No idea if it'll fit under fairings, of course...
  3. I believe he modified RC45 headers to fit. The 8th gen headers are modeled after the RC30 and 45, which both employed front mounted upper and lower radiators.
  4. I can hardly wait for the 8th gen version data to drop, very exciting!
  5. Ya know the one I did was a spare 6th gen... and we're talking 5th here. I will try to remember pics next week. I do have to do a 5th soon, will get pics of that one too but it's a little ways off.
  6. I totally agree with you re: good value as a replacement system. Also, I am thankful for the efforts made to obtain & provide info! All I meant with my comment was that the additional data point could have put the kibosh on any further speculation re: overall performance. I'm a sucker for data
  7. I really was hoping to see a before & after chart comparison, that would have sealed the deal.
  8. I'm looking for my pics, they're not in my photobucket album where I thought they should be...
  9. Sorry just saw this - I didn't use any OEM replacement parts, all new aftermarket.
  10. Nice one, have plans to do the same and was curious about the 8th gen headers fitting inside the 6g body side panels. Waiting for my TBR style header to be made, nice to have one question answered, thanks.
  11. Kudos for the effort men... Wow to the PCV dyno chart... yikes A question for clarity's sake - was the PC3 connected for Run File 14 or no?
  12. IIRC, the vertical alignment was off on my 4th gen TBR also.
  13. A few wraps of Nashua foil tape around the pipe that is too small would be an effective temporary fix. Not too hard to scrape off with a razor blade later, replace with sealant when timing is better.
  14. Thanks. I actually used a cordless drill. The bar is hollow, if you work up to the final size in small increments it goes quick and easy.
  15. I've drilled out the ends of aluminum bars before to fit parts like bar ends and turn signals.
  16. Possibly. Have you tried it?
  17. Do you have room to flip those risers 180° to move the bar forward, or will the bar then foul the forks?
  18. I've also found the mounting location of the bar in relation to the forks and stem changes road feel quite a bit. IMO the LSL kit mounts them too far back, almost directly over the stem center. What I found feels best is when the bar center is mounted forward of the stem center by 60-75% of the total offset distance. On standard VFR triples that would be 10-15mm back from the fork centerline. Mounting closer to the axle gives more direct feedback and feels lighter.
  19. The bars on the GS look to be a foot higher than the seat, you're not gonna be able to pull that off on the VFR and keep the fairing. I had a vintage K&N Superbike bar on my CB900. After the old guy ran me over, I replaced them with an Emgo Superbike bar and they feel the same as the old ones. MX bars offer more options. My blue streetfighter you rode has a "CR Low" bend, it's available in a High version too. Quite a bit wider than the street bars though.
  20. You can weld either bung to the stainless header, ss to ss would be preferred with ss filler rod. Could also weld the mild steel bung to the header using ss rod or silicon bronze brazing wire.
  21. While I'd normally agree with you, in this application it's called for and the sealed grip ends will help keep the bar clean. Grease is called for in the FSM for this one and with regular maintenance will not be an issue. Maybe if the bar were refinished in the future to remove the rust and create a new smooth surface, we could skip the grease.
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