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SEBSPEED

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Everything posted by SEBSPEED

  1. SEBSPEED

    1984 Miniceptor Refresh

    While I'd normally agree with you, in this application it's called for and the sealed grip ends will help keep the bar clean. Grease is called for in the FSM for this one and with regular maintenance will not be an issue. Maybe if the bar were refinished in the future to remove the rust and create a new smooth surface, we could skip the grease.
  2. SEBSPEED

    1984 Miniceptor Refresh

    Here's something I've been working on for a few weeks now. The whole project isn't finished yet, but should be soon, so I thought I'd post a few installments of the rebuild here. I was asked to get this girl back up and running, she was last ridden 10 years ago. During early discussions the carbs were cited as the main issue that needed addressing, but after getting eyes on the bike, the issues went a little deeper than that. Still not bad overall, a good starting point for sure. Nowadays you can give just about anything 10 feet and an Instagram filter to make it look good: But, the closer I got the more I saw that needed attention. The whole bike was fairly original, and was put away just as some of the small "old bike stuff" stared cropping up. Tires were dated 2003, fork seals leaking, clutch slave leaking, gas had gone off, battery gone, mufflers packed full of whole kernel corn feed, etc. I made a list and settled in for the long haul, but not before getting the bike to start on the old gas with a fresh battery. It took full choke and a lot of cranking, and the bowls leaked, but it did start, run, and even took some throttle so I knew we had something to save here. First up, clear a space, pull some bodywork and the carbs Rut roh, first sign of trouble... someone's had that plenum off, and they chewed up the screws while they were at it. When I saw that I figured it was time to go all in. Ordered a full rebuild kit from BillyC and tore the carbs down I got them to this point, then proceeded to tackle 1 carb at a time till all 4 were done Kit contents: All the rubber was hardened and splitting, this definitely needed doing Each carb body was soaked in Berryman's and thoroughly blown out/dried and rebuilt with the new rubber. The diaphragms and slides were in good shape and stock. The chrome on the slide hats was pitting and chipping/flaking and the hats were dirty, so I sent them on a quick trip through my blast cabinet to clean them up without dulling the chrome too badly, then installed the nicer ones on the outside carbs. Also blasted the plenum, and refined the body & bowl gasket surfaces. All in all, they look better now
  3. SEBSPEED

    1984 Miniceptor Refresh

    Thanks! Shameless plug... If anyone wants this type of service for their bike... I'm available 😄
  4. SEBSPEED

    1984 Miniceptor Refresh

    I got lucky with that, had a long period of rain and 1 partly cloudy day in the mid 30s before it dropped back down below freezing. So all the road salt was temporarily washed away and I got out long enough to find that it runs well, there is a headlight issue, and to take these pics: The headlight was cutting in and out, no relay on this bike, so basically a check of the wiring with the first stop being the switch gear. Wiring diagram leads us to the right switch assembly as the first possible culprit, and heres's what I found... Contacts were quite dirty, and an ear missing off the start button itself led to the button sticking between the contacts, meaning it would feel almost normal as the button was depressed to engage the starter, and it would spring back enough to disengage the starter, but it was not returning fully to the first set of contacts to re-engage the headlights. I fixed this by cleaning the switch and replacing the button with a spare. That's fixed that issue perfectly and after applying grease to the handlebar, we're good to go again.
  5. SEBSPEED

    1984 Miniceptor Refresh

    Close to the finish line, some of the fuel lines were in need of replacement as they were splitting at the ends. I grabbed a couple length of 5/16" and 1/4" low pressure hose from Napa and planned to buy fittings there too. I needed a 1/4 to 1/4 splice, a 1/4 to 1/4 barbed elbow, and a 5/16 to 1/4 adapter. All they had was the splice, so, I ordered the elbows from Amazon and made the step down adapter from brass stock I keep on hand for turning pilots for other tools. 1/4 side done The new piece is now a lifetime item, unlike the OEM plastic which disentigrated when I pulled the hose off The sharp eye will pick up on something odd in this pic, hint, not hose related... Here's the new 5/16" hose which runs between the carb rack and the pump, along with a fresh length of fiberglass braided sleeve insulation, looks a little nicer, eh And tied in to the pump line with the special adapter I added the elbow later; the bike ran without it, but I didn't want to chance the hose collapsing on itself at the bend in warmer temperatures. With that done, I pumped the old gas out of the tank and then stuck it on the bike along with most of the body I filled the crankcase with Rotella T6 and the cooling system with Prestone 50/50, then popped the front fairing on. Ready for test ride!
  6. Deposits for 2 sets sent, sorry for the delay.
  7. SEBSPEED

    Pardon The Nudity...

    Just finishing up the last few bits on this build, figured it was time to share here. This will be a long multi-segment post, so keep checking in till the finished pics pop up. The (rough) design brief... CBR1000RR tail, F4i RSU fork swap, handlebar and riser conversion, round headlight, front mount radiator, custom exhaust header with low/underbelly muffler and exit, powdercoat lots of parts. Overall, the usual crisp, clean, loaded-with-details build with a P51 Mustang - airplane inspired theme. Starting with a reasonably clean albeit slightly higher mileage '99 model: Coolant drained, rads off, brakes (mostly) bled out, rear axle nut cracked loose. On track for fork swap by weeks end Washer fluid bottle makes a good drain catch for coolant streaming from the drain at the pump Not much, but at least it looks a bit lighter with the side rads gone. More disassembly. Removed hand controls, linked brake system, clutch slave, pair system, other misc stuff. She's pretty grungy, got my work cut out for me to make it clean and shiny again. Always gets worse before it gets better... Found a broken airbox lid Fitted the F4i forks and triples, and a set of brake calipers. The VFR wheel fits almost perfectly. I did have to cut off the F4i steering lock stops to fit the lower, will make new ones later. Then I offered up the CBR tail I'm happy with how the shapes will blend. With the right blend panels and paint, it will look factory.
  8. Thanks, got it. And no - the headers I have requested are for my own projects. Our (CC & me) orders will be separate but there is potential for crossover with shipping. I'll explain in PM.
  9. SEBSPEED

    Pardon The Nudity...

    Just saying, I resemble that comment lol
  10. SEBSPEED

    Pardon The Nudity...

    Are you calling me out? LOL
  11. I didn't see details in the OP... how do I "get it in"?
  12. SEBSPEED

    Pardon The Nudity...

    Agreed, the weight loss makes it feel a lot better! Lots of little stuff that could add up, led lighting gets cheaper every day... wheels don't, but swapping the right OEM parts is a good compromise. I have an OEM R1 front wheel that weighs the same as a Ducati Marchesini. Thin wall headers are in the works. The possibilities really stretch out for a track build where a diligent builder can strip a lot of normally overlooked items like excess harness wiring, frame tabs, super light subframe, etc. I have a few more VFR builds in the pipeline, and at least one of them will be an exercise in weight loss. The goal put forward was a sub 425lb curb weight (although the only curb it's likely to be near will be the red and white colored variety). I'm pretty confident I can beat that goal based on what I've seen accomplished so far.
  13. SEBSPEED

    Pardon The Nudity...

    185kg = 408lb 193kg = 425lb So ~417lb with 1/3 tank... 5.5/3=1.83, *6.3=11.5lb 417-11.5= 405.5, +6.3= ~412lb corrected to 1 gallon in tank. Not too shabby!
  14. Unfortunately, my experience was on the processing end, so I'm of no help with pricing references. All I can really add is that it will likely be more cost efficient to process a batch of headers at a chem processing facility vs doing one or two.
  15. Right. It's only needed if one wants to treat the back side/inside as well.
  16. Nitric/HF dip (full immersion) would be the best option for "ultimate" corrosion resistance with a bare/bright metal finish on this unsealed tubular construction. Whether it is the best option for this run of headers remains to be seen. It could add a lot of cost if the parts have to be shipped in bulk to a chem processing facility and back again for distribution. In reality it may not be overly important, as Honda themselves don't even do this - you can see the weld joints are the first place our headers usually start to rot. I was really just curious if there was a finishing process planned for them, and I went and complicated things from there. lol
  17. SEBSPEED

    1984 Miniceptor Refresh

    Seems I glazed over the carb installation up there ^^... word of advice, do it opposite of the book. Leave all the boot clamps very loose but properly oriented, set the boots on the intakes so their tops are close to horizontal, then install the carb rack by pushing the rears in first (book says fronts first). Pushing the rears in first allows you to very easily wrap the frame cross bar with a rag and push the fronts into place by levering a pry bar between the frame cross and the plenum. Don't be a gorilla - if you meet resistance, check the position of the boots and clamps. The carbs will pop right on if you have the boots just right. I like to put a little smear of grease on the insides of the boots to help too. All that's left now is a clean up of the bodywork, making up new fuel lines, and tuning the carbs. Bodywork first... there is some light damage here which makes the bike a "10-15 footer", but a little buffing compound goes a long way sometimes. Unfortunately I forgot to take a before pic of the tail... so here it is halfway done. You can see how the top part is clean and the rest... isn't. A better look at the grime, years of dust and oxidation Right side panel before buffing, against the tail after buffing Right side (left in pic) before, Left side after After Tank before, then after: Is it perfect? Nope. Is it better than it was? Oh yeah. A coat of wax will help even more. Last but not least, a quick polish of the button screws and then installed the chin spoiler.
  18. SEBSPEED

    1984 Miniceptor Refresh

    I prepped the header with some DEI high temp spray and hung some more parts here, you can also see the vaseline application to the rear fender and taillight Header and pipes went back on just as easy as they came off, with new gaskets of course I let the vaseline soak in for about 18hrs which turned my partially sun bleached part back into something that looks nice! Same application worked wonders for the switch gear Routing the middle of the harness and cooling overflow tubes was "FUN", had a good study of the drawings in the manual for that I had to remove the VIN tag from the frame prior to coating, luckily it didn't break, it was a bit bent out of shape though and took a few minutes to straighten out. I reinstalled it with contact cement and superglued a couple pop rivet stems to duplicate the original hammer drive rivets. This is will serve as the "before" pic for the final motor detailing: Airbox before: Airbox after, with new filter: Airbox installed: At this point I installed the battery and did a function check. I found the signals not working and 1 taillight bulb out & brake lights not working... hmm... checked harness ground bolt, sure enough I hadn't tightened it, now everything worked except that 1 taillight bulb... hmm... Pulled the underseat toolbox and found a couple of the bullet connectors had pulled out when I installed the box so corrected that, reinstalled box, rechecked, bingo everything works. Oh yeah, except for the new AGM battery being taller than oem, which forced me to make a little adapter for the ground cable
  19. I agree on not coating or wrapping stainless headers. Satin brush/polish would surely raise the price if it's not already included. It looks nice, but not sure what it's worth to Wade vs what premium folks here might pay for that. More important than looks however, is restoring the anti-corrosion properties at the weld joints. The high heat from welding removes the chromium oxide layer which is the element that prevents rust in/on SS. Mechanical cleaning (grinding/wire brushing/scotchbrite brushing) can accomplish this as the material will auto-passivate, but this only helps the outside of the joint. Dipping in a citric or nitric/hydroflouric acid bath would clean inside & out. Citric won't etch the material & will preserve the raw finished look while nitric/HF will etch and create a uniform silver (clean) look. That may be information overload there... and not hugely essential for production... but it would be nice. RE: your separate topic... do whatever's easiest for you... and thanks for the efforts so far!
  20. SEBSPEED

    1984 Miniceptor Refresh

    Thanks Lee. Yeah, just a few lol
  21. Question... what is the final finishing process on these? Is it straight off the welding jig and into a shipping box, or is there a final finishing process such as chemical cleaning followed by satin brush/polish?
  22. Bottom line, the bike will run, but it would be to your advantage to add a tuning device. You don't have to tune it for "ultimate powah" if you don't want to. You could instead tune it for efficiency if that were your preference.
  23. SEBSPEED

    1984 Miniceptor Refresh

    Been slacking on updates here, sorry. Those of you like me who have sausages for fingers like me may appreciate this tip... I use my little grabber tool to insert & start the threads on spark plugs. Easy & precise. An insight to the less glamorous side of bike work... All worth it though, as clean parts make for a much nicer assembly Always a good idea to chase threads after refinishing parts to clean debris Then start hanging more parts Refinished hose joint tube Hung more parts on, some plastic bits like the rear fender, radiator end covers, fuse panel cover, switch pods, and chainguard treated with vaseline to renew the finish
  24. I'm in for: (1) 5th gen and (1) 8th gen system, will send details in pm in a bit
  25. SEBSPEED

    Fix Broken Plastic Tabs

    I used Google to find it, it's been archived. Link:
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