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arrows on tires are not oriented "front or back", but rather in the direction of normal rotation during travel. I know such concepts can be difficult, but give yourself a moment in consideration.

off topic: I have a hunch where you shot this picture 🤫

JZH got it. My wiring is a bit different as it has pink, green, and black going to the connector. The green connectors in the picture is the connectors for my gear indicator I have yet to finish.

I could "delink" this front brake completely..... Cos it was crap when it left the factory in 1952 to begin with... 🙂 Sorry, could not resist...

I'd disagree re the brakes. I upgraded the brake lines on my 01 800 to braided ss and it made a noticeable difference imo.

Today's work, the seat cover The foam needed to be glued to the base in the front Sadly the fit was not perfect up front of the cover, it's a bit to wide So to get it really smooth turned out to be a bit to demanding But even not perfect I'm happy whit it

I’ve changed 2 sets recently, 1 40yrs old & the other 30, both working fine. Improvements in “feel” barely noticeable, I suspect somewhat a form of wishful thinking to justify the effort/ expense invested!

I watched both those videos last year. If I recollect, John McGuiness, after riding the bike pretty hard on the track, said that there were absolutely no problem with the brakes at that high mileage, with the original brake lines. Perhaps we fuss too much about changing OEM lines! I still have the original brake lines on my 2003 Toyota Matrix XRS (which incidentally has a superb engine built by Yamaha) at about 350,000km. A few years ago, I bought new brake lines, but when I saw that attempting to remove them may have caused more problems due to rusted fasteners and the hoses were in good condition, I left them in place. The brakes still perform as good as new. I am not suggesting that one shold leave OEM brake lines on a motorcycle for such high mileage as we are just on two wheels, but my point is that Japanese brake hoses seem to be extremely durable and high quality. The recommendations in the manual to change them at low mileage are probably a 'Cover My Ass and avoid liability' recommendation by the manufacturers.

I don't intend for commercial exploitation, but I do see the certification required for commercial use as a requirement for releasing the design to others.

ahh got it, didnt know you intended it for commercial use, sorry!

If only one of the yellow wires is getting hot, that could indicate a bad "leg" on the stator. Have you had a look at it? It will probably look dark above the "oil line", but it shouldn't look "crispy" anywhere. Ciao, JZH

The lithium cells themselves take up much less room than a standard AGM battery. I took advantage of this when I chose my LiFePo4 battery--it physically fits into all of my bikes, from RS250 to ST1300, and I can connect it with a standard Anderson-type SB50: After all, I can only ride one bike at a time... Ciao, JZH

The 3-pin connector is the only one plugged into the "TDK" speedo sensor unit. Not easy to see in this picture because I've got my custom GI-Pro harness plugged into it, but maybe you can still see where it is. Ciao, JZH

This is an old post and the pictures don't seem to be linked anymore.... bummer. I am looking for where the plug in connector is located that I can plug in the healtech gear indicator. I did find a 3 prong plug near the gear label on a cover that is near the gear shifter, but I want to make sure it is the correct one. Does anyone have pictures to share? It seems there is nothing out there for our gen bikes.

I ended up taking one of the 3 spacers off the bottom, which made the battery sit lower in the box. It gave me more space to utilize the other terminals without trying to cram the cover closed.

^^^^Damn hilarious....I should have went to that! 🤪Lol!

There's overthinking it. And then whatever that is called.

Just bought the bike and I'm looking for side cases and top box with mounting hardware.

My 2015 seat is a solid 6/10, not bad but not the best either. I did 300km on my Sargent-seat equipped 5th gen yesterday and that was fantastic, my 6th gen stock seat is also pretty nice being wide and cushy, but the 7th gen seat feels hard and angular. I have some padded shorts that I wear for any decent rides which makes the stock seat quite bearable. I am working my way through the suspension and have changed springs and dampers in the front, and have a Nitron shock ordered.

The biggest issue with stator wires is corrosion in the terminals, which leads to LOTS of heat and can melt the plastic plug. If your plug is at all melted looking, then cutting the connectoir out and hardsoldering a decent piece of wire in its place is a sound move that will eliminate the connector as a failure point and likely reduce the wire heat. I did that on my last 5th gen as I had noticed the charging voltage was dropping, and that bumped it back to normal with no other changes. Doesn't matter which yellow wires you join as they are the 3-phases and AC, effectively all the same.

Just be glad that you aren't in the Southern Hemisphere Dude; we have to deal with this stuff all the time,

A good bit done today. Oil and filter changed, clutch fluid replaced and bled. Front brake light switch replaced. Wiring for broken heated grips removed...it's easy to see why they weren't working!! The old oil looked pretty good. Clutch fluid not so much! The plan is to try and put some miles on it tomorrow, make sure it's running reliably and then hand it over to a mechanic to sort the starter valves and see if that's what's causing the high idle when it warms up.

Thanks for the photos and measurements. When I measured my battery box, I found it will indeed fit. When I re checked my battery I found i had a yb12, not a ytx12.............🙃