All Activity

From looking at the wiring diagram I believe that removing that fuse will also deactivate your turn signals so maybe not the best idea. The fuse is feeding power along a red/green wire which goes to the blinker relay and also onwards to the instrument panel where I assume it feeds the clock. You could refit the fuse and then disconnect the turn signal relay and see if the drain drops, then reconnect that and disconnect the instrument panel and see if that is where the drain is. You may just need to replace a relay. Or if the drain is constant with those things removed, maybe you have some chafing on a wire that is causing a bit of a short.

I’ll look into the plug tomorrow and let you know what it is. I pulled the fairing off a little bit and couldn’t tell where it plugged into. on the side of the battery drain. Considering that the clock/HAZ fuse seems to be the issue. What should I look into to see what could be causing this. Since I kind of know what could be the issue, would it damage the bike to ride it without that fuse in it? It only controls the hazard lights and the clock memory I can live without those two for a while. I definitely want to get this fixed. what is the next step I should do to find this? Or would it be worth it to take it to the dealership to get it fixed?

That plug may be for the flapper actuator or possibly the PAIR actuator. Actually I'm not even sure the 8th gen has a flapper. If it is the plug for the PAIR system then that is not the smoking gun you're looking for; PAIR is a system that allows air from the airbox to be drawn into the exhaust headers to reduce unburned hydrocarbons. The ECM opens or closes the valve that lets the air in, and there are reed valve chambers on the cam covers to stop back flow. Many (me included) remove and blank these systems off to get rid of unecessary hardware, unlikely to be a performance gain (or loss) although my butt-dyno thinks my 6th gen is much less surgy without it. Another possibility is the evap purge control solenoid, again not a smoking gun. If you tell me what wire colours go to the plug we can identify it that way (green-orange is PAIR, Gr/blk-blk/wht is EVAP). The clock fuse also feeds the hazard lights according to the service manual wiring diagram.

It takes village...to replace Grum! No worries CDollard, you're in good hands.

You needed to clean and vinegar soak to confirm that level of corrosion? Dude, just keep searching and buy the correct tank. They are not that rare.

I started messing with the fuses after following the directions on 20m on the multimeter it showed -1 almost as a overload then settled down to almost -20.00 and settle down to -7.30 when I took out the fuse connected to the clock/HAZ it slowly fell to about -0.08 what all is connected to this fuse? Any likely culprits? I also noticed this plug under the fairing. This ring any bells as to what this is?

92 tank does NOT fit

Swiss cheese after a good cleaning and vinegar soak for a few days. Options? Fiberglass the entire thing? Make a cast and fiberglass a new one, keep searching eBay and such?

I don't think I've ever heard of a VFR that smokes badly through regular engine wear. I'd pull the spark plugs and see whether they are showing any signs of oil burning or over-rich operation. Rich running can be caused by the fuel pressure regulator, these can develop a diaphragm leak and raw fuel goes down the vacuum hose into one of the inlets, so you may want to check for any fuel in that hose (should be dry). Another possibility would be oil leaking into the PAIR ports if these are not sealed up, oil could enter the exhaust ports and get burnt. There is a gasket under the camcover that seals this to the head.

It could be valve seals.is there way to replace them without pulling the head off or taking the engine out?

I've updated the message to get it right as I was having a brain fart, so read again before you start.

Threadromancy... I have the 2014 manual for my 2014 gen 8. It's horrible: leaves out numerous parts and processes for re-assembly after valve adjust. 2 of the 4 o-rings in this assembly are not addressed in the reassembly procedure. Probably what happened in these instances where one was missing. I understand the revised the manual in 2015. It couldn't be worse than the 2014 version. Worst Honda shop manual I ever looked at.

thank you so much!!!!! I will update once im home with what my readings are!

Red lead plugs into terminal marked V..mA (2nd down in your photo). Black lead to COM. Set dial to DCA 20. You are putting the multimeter in series in the circuit to measure current drain. So put the black probe on the battery +ve terminal and the red probe on the red cable you disconnected from the battery. Hope that helps

I can do that. I apologize for my lack of knowledge on electricity. this is the multimeter I have. What should I have the dial at and which port should the red cord be in? Also do I connect the red probe to the +ve wire or the +ve battery terminal? I will do this tonight and reply with my readings if I am able to figure out what to set my multimeter to!

Electrically connected the RapidBike YouTune and BlueBike3 and tested them: working. Awaiting some cooling fluid before a next test ride.

The 2014 models usually have a completely reliable electrical system so don't go thinking that you have a dud. That said, riding 50 miles per day should leave you with a fully charged battery every day; an exception would be if you spend lots of time at lights with the heated grips on, as that can drain more than the charge system can refill. The voltage numbers when the battery was fresh sound great, so I'd say your charging system is more than likely OK. For the parasitic drain I would do the following: key off and removed +ve cable removed from the battery set the multimeter to current connect it between the +ve battery terminal and the +ve cable The multimeter is now showing the current drain of the "off" motorcycle Now pull one fuse out at a time (and leave it out) and see if the current drops when one of those is pulled; that will help to narrow the drain down. If none of those help, then disconnect the RR and see if that changes the reading I think there will always be a small drain, just from the clock. I have seen YT vids where the RR turned out to be a drain culprit. The service manual shows a maximum allowable 1mA current leakage.

Hello all! I just recently purchased a 2014 Honda VFR800 Interceptor (non deluxe version) and I have run into this super weird issue. I purchased this motorcycle about four weeks ago. About a week after purchasing it the battery died. push started it to get it home and the battery charged enough to start for a few more rides. then after it sat for about 4 days i went to start it and the battery was dead. So i replaced it and chalked it up to being an old battery and bad timing. So with the new battery I rode it to work and back apx 50 miles per day. and the battery died on me exactly 18 days later. Would not turn the engine over and the lights were dim or completely off on the dash. I took it back to Oreilles and got a replacement for free. I also bought a multimeter to see if i could test if there was a parasitic draw on the battery. I tested the battery when i first got the replacement. brand new battery... key off: 12.68 idle: 14.65 and at 5k rpm: 14.47 after 100 miles of riding (four trips to work, apx started bike 5 times)... key off: 11.93 idle: 14.20 at 5k rpm: 14.16 I am not experienced with electrical stuff at all and I am looking to see if anyone can help me or guide me on how I can diagnose this/ fix this. I keep reading that the VFRs are known to have a bad R/R so could it be this? This is a used bike but in very good condition. it is not the deluxe version as it does not have ABS but it has the OEM hand warmers. All batteries including the battery that came with the bike were Super Start AGM battery part number (ETZ12S) Where do I start or is this an obvious parasitic drain? Any help will so appreciated! Caleb Dollard (Tulsa Oklahoma) feel free to reach out to me if you are in the area or have info that could help! Calebdollard@gmail.com or 303-505-1257

Scorpion carbon exhaust for sale, really good condition! $300 Email me at morrisbrettandrew12@gmail.com If interested

Awesome, Thx for the pictures. It looks like I have the correct plug that patch it in with. It's nice to clear up doubt when you are dealing with wiring.

I can't find a picture of my solution, but if you look at the clevis, it has an threaded adjustable plunger, that passes through a retainer plate. Just replace the plunger with a socket head bolt I think it's an M6 IIRC. To assemble, slide the retainer plate over the bolt. Add a Nyloc lock nut to retain it & tighten the plate onto bolt head. Add a second locknut, can be ordinary or a Nyloc added in reverse. Thread on the clevis. Fit the retainer plate in the Secondary master cylinder as per stock disassembly, such that the bolt head is inside where the plunger would be, retaining it with the stock circlip. Connect the clevis to the fork leg loosely check pad alignment on the disc, adjust bolt length as needed until you are happy, snug up second lock nut & clevis cross bolt. Go ride it 🙂 Stock Clevis Modified with Cap Head Bolt Clevis, the Red represents the Cap Head Bolt ! Trim bolt to length where is passes through the clevis. I used an alloy cap head bolt, its more than strong enough as it only sees compression loads, you may need to reduce the cap head outer diameter to fit inside the master cylinder hole. I cut away all the surplus bracket where the hoses mounted & drilled some lightening holes. Happy modding 🙂

Designed/printed/placed a bracket for the RapidBike YouTune display to be placed on top of the clutch fluid reservoir: Routed the cable back to the battery area. Ready for soldering / connecting to the 'conFUSEd'. Also finished the bracket for allowing to move forward the fuel cut relay and barometric pressure sensor. Last, but not least: replaced the left radiator (by a second hand) since it showed (greenish) signs of minor leaking:

ah, got it

thats a strange VFR!!! 😄

arrows on tires are not oriented "front or back", but rather in the direction of normal rotation during travel. I know such concepts can be difficult, but give yourself a moment in consideration.