Leaderboard

May '93: Cherry blossoms at Beacon Hill park made a good backdrop for this shot of the new-to me '91 VFR750.

Hi Mello. Thanks for the info. Saw his name on the member list. I don't want to join the ST-owners forum, but if you're on it? Can you send him a PM, tell him to get back to the real forum! VFRD misses him. Cheers

If there is decent airflow through the radiator then the bike should sit at/near the thermostat opening point of 78-80C or 176F irrespective of the ambient temperature. When you get stuck in traffic (no air passing through the radiator) the temperature will rise to around 100 (212) and should cycle up/down as the fans switch on off. To get higher than that would suggest maybe the fans don't work or the thermostat is stuck. Let's assume the cooling system is full and the reservoir has a decent volume as well (you checked that, right?). If the radiator stays cold when the engine starts and then suddenly gets too hot to touch around 176, the thermostat probably works. If the radiator gently warms up as soon as the engine starts, the thermostat is probably jammed half-open. If the radiator never gets hot, the thermostat is probably jammed shut. Check the fan switches itself on around 212F and off a few degrees below that. Some have altered the fan wiring to put a manual bypass switch in place, so if you are going to get mired in traffic you can start the fan earlier.

Not sure if this has been posted on VFRD but long time VFR specialty product company Tyga Performance is now selling full RC30 conversion kits to suit 4th Gen VFR750. All bodywork, subframes, infill panels, exhaust system... the works. Even a replacement fuel tank. They look incredible and are literally plug and play. Bodywork Set 1, GRP, Painted RC30, RC36-2 RC30 Style, Street | TYGA-Performance The interest in this kit on the Facebook "RC/RVF Replica Group" is immense and a lot of bikes are going to be converted, so now's the time to grab a 4th Gen. Especially a cosmetically challenged one.

I wish the video had a skinny guy try to use it...

No shop anywhere near me would mount tires not bought from them, so they turned customers into DIY's. About 18 years ago I bought a Black Widow paddock tire changer and a HF balancer. The convenience factor became apparent immediately. I averaged 4-6 tires a year for myself and 6-12 for guys in the same position as me. I don't charge for it as motorcycles are my hobby, not a business. Also, it turned our to be a good way to meet the few sport/sport touring guys here in Mid Coast Maine.

...I bought this lightly used 2 year old VFR750, and haven't been without a Honda since then; several VFRs and a handful of VTR1000F. I'd bought the bike late that afternoon, and being early March it was a dark, damp first ride to visit my folks. I'd love to have it back, and in that condition.

Never been an issue with all 4 VFR800's I've owned with after market exhausts fitted, 1200 shouldn't be any different. O2 sensors means ECU runs in closed loop so air to fuel ratio is continuously optimized. Think you're worrying about nothing. I'd probably go back to the OEM type airfilter if it was mine! Good Luck with the bike, take it for a good test ride. Check it's maintenance history. Coolant change, brake and clutch fluid replacement - should have had a few of those! Oil and filter, etc. P.s. I'm sure there was a rear wheel drive unit issue recall for the early 1200's. Make sure this has been done.

The RC46 crank case & major assemblies are taken directly from the RC45 which in final race trim was putting out 195rwhp @ 14K/rpm. The only major parts difference was the pistons & Ti conrods & the crank+cams being timed differently. The big bang RC45 crank is timed at 0 degrees, such that it acts like a pair of V-twins joined together. And the 2mm shorter stroke allowed for the higher race RPM. That setup creates huge loads, the VFR's 180 degree crank is much kinder to the cases & bearings. Due to the total lack of RC45 crank case spares, race teams use 5th gen crank cases with the swingarm pivot ground off. They then bolt straight in to RC45 frame and all RC45 innards just drop in.

Rode a few bikes as a youngster, but didn't really start riding until '98. Oldest pic I have of me & the '87 ZX600 is from '05. First VFR was '09.

I can't quite match the vintage, but here we are in 1982, me and my mighty CB125T; two tiny pistons frantically going nowhere! 12000rpm redline! The T did not stand for torque however. This was my first motorcycle and started my love afair with Honda.

Just for a laugh!..... 1972 - Yikes, 52 years ago!! My beloved Honda SL100, absolutely had a hoot with this bike. Worked three paper delivery rounds per week to save up for it. I'd really give this bike a work out and never had a fault with it. That bike won me over forever with Honda's build quality, reliability and durability. My buddies little Honda Mini Trail was also bulletproof. ATGATT...only partially back then. Cheers

OK Lorne. I didn't go back far enough (the end of my digital photos is ~ a little over 20 yrs ago). However, here's an action photo of me about to drag my knee, wearing, obviously, ATGATT. I challenge all here at VFRD to name vehicle brand as well as engine. Cheers!

Hi All. Just wondering if any of our American friends have heard from or know if Danno is ok. He's been an active member and a helpful clever guy, he had a strong passion for VFRD. Since May 2023 there's been nothing! Total silence, bit out of character for Danno. Lives in Mesa AZ. His last post was..... "Would be shame to have site go away. I've PMed Miguel and volunteered to keep this site going. Would need some training and help to get up to speed."

Oh greeze, man, id prefer to crash on a motorcycle........😏

I did it again, now I have a low km 1998 to keep the 2000 company. That's two in the garage now but is my 4th in total.

I know it made the rounds on the FB group. Like you, I figure it will be tough to find a 4th gen starting about now. May be a good idea to hang on to an unmolested one even.

I am the muttonhead in this (what should be) finale in the VFR saga. Looking at shock length and not bike ride height caused me many hours of headaches. Even I can't believe it. The next time that each shock is out I will measure to compare. For now, they both stay bolted in and as they are. Yellow VFR00 hot sag numbers came in perfect after some adjusting. Front is 24/34 and rear is 10/30. This is after a few changes to get rear ride height very close to VFR98, which I love. The yellow bike front forks are a touch (1.5mm) higher in the triples (front of bike is lower) and the rear is a touch higher (w/in 1.5mm) measured up from the axle...but close enough for a lackey. Simply everything feels better with the geometry changed. Braking. Seating. Pressure on arms. Mid corner direction changes. Everything. Patience paid off. I was ready to light it on fire...like I am with the ABS FJ1200 wheels/brakes that cost the earth. I rode both VFRs back to back today to verify/set hot sag. While they feel different because the components are different, they are both pretty excellent. Absolutely adequate for any kind of riding. I planned to be zippy in the mountains tomorrow, but all 7 buddies bailed, so I'll likely just roll around the lakes here, which is a 4-5 hour ride.

Well well. A Green/Blue wire! The wiring diagrams Are Correct. And you wonder why you've made me a "Grumpy Grum"......Should be as obvious as the correct Green/Blue wire I'm seeing for Temperature Input Not a "blue with gray dashes" and that it took three requests for you check it. As for those gray dashes you mention I have no idea what they are for. And why only now, you're admitting to having ordered a replacement ECT sometime back, after you stated on the other post (2000 VFR800 fuel pump no power) that you did the Service Manual tests and suspected it was faulty back then? 30.1 Ohms is Miles out of tolerance. You could have saved us all a hell of a lot of time wasting, sounds like another wild goose chase per the ECM saga, I'm convinced you knew about the blown ECM all along. And this - "BLUE 10P wire is blue with gray dashes good continuity." Question asked, continuity to What? You were looking at the Lb wire Light Blue - For the R/H Turn Indicator Light! And this - "item 8 You are incorrect the wire is not green/blue it is blue with gray dashes" Sorry not so! But correct if chasing a Turn Light fault. Seriously, trying to sort out your problems via a keybord 14,000km away is near impossible (well for me anyway) when your feedback has been confusing, with very little clear info, jumping off track, or not answering questions, it just makes the whole interaction messy, difficult to follow, and time wasting. As for the insult - "Grumpy Grum says he truly is the expert." I've never said that in my 67 years existence, I don't hold back or hide info from people and enjoy passing whatever helpful info I may have to help others, even You! I've worked with people who kept important, helpful info from others, a job security issue perhaps, that ain't me. But frankly I couldn't care less mate! Enough said, good luck with it all, guess you don't believe this, but I hope you get that bike up and running ASAP. This time I'm definitely done. Cheers

Electrical fault finding can be very frustrating particularly if ( like me) one is not that experienced at it. That's why many of us use the experts on this site. However, it is really important to follow the steps of advice exactly and report back findings on those steps as requested. That's also the better way to learn because the approach has logical structure. Missing out bits, giving half answers or introducing new stuff makes having the conversation frustrating or downright infuriating. We're all human and everyone offering help on here is genuinely interested in getting a fellow biker back on the road. But being frustrated by half answers will test anyone's patience eventually. I do hope you get this sorted. Cheers!

You can indeed just change the fronts and leave the rear with the original rubber lines. In fact getting at the connectors under the seat area for the rear brake lines on the 8 Gen is a royal pain in the arse. I did post about changing the fronts a little while back. I will try to find it for you.

I am no expert when it comes to electrical stuff but going back to first principles and from what I understand from Grum's detailed and patient advice: 1. There is one relevant wire that goes from the ECT to the instrument panel. It's shown as G/Bu in the diagrams. But the colour may have altered with heat/age. 2. A broken circuit in this wire or a faulty relevant track in the instrument panel will show up as a permanently flashing 270 temp reading. 3. Use of a non OEM or faulty ECT sensor could also cause the permanent 270 flashing reading. Based on the understanding in 1-3 above my approach would be: 4. Confirm which wire runs from the ECT through to the instrument panel relevant pin and check continuity throughout the run including cleaning any relevant intermediate connections. If colours have faded or changed this will need patient methodical checking and I'd recommend a written note of what you find at each connection. If continuity in this wire is good the problem will either be a faulty sensor or a corroded or dirty track in the instrument panel. 5. There is a fault finding test in the manual for the ECT - run that to confirm or eliminate a problem with the sensor 6. If it's not the sensor you will need to check the tracks inside the instrument panel - there are posts on this site of how to do that I hope I've understood this right. As a disclaimer, I have no experience of a 5th Gen and I have not read the 5 Gen manual- this is taken from the advice you've been offered. Good luck.

Hi Skids. That's a real bummer m8. I feel your pain! Yep that horrible point of no return, trying desperately to recover it or at least lay it down gracefully. I remember years ago doing damage to my leg femoral nerve by saving a topple over, the bike back upright without hitting the deck, but bloody hell, the resulting nerve damage was painful for weeks. You're definitely No "Muppet" m8, shit happens!. Given my weight at the moment I feel a little bit Miss Piggy ish! Hope you and the bike are mended ASAP. Take Care. Cheers.

Got a Rabaconda during last Black Friday sale along with a Harbor Freight wheel balancer. What used to take hours and multiple round trips to shop, now takes minutes in my garage. Easy to store, set up and use.

I'm kind of flabbergasted to hear multiple stories about the transmission issues here. Im sure theese are Na bikes yes? I have absolutely abused my bike for 30k km with 100% power increase in mind just making Shure of proper shifts before wot. Absolutely no hickups before and now that I'm building a map slowly I have transmission parts in my sump. Can't wait to see this with my own eyes!

That's one good thing, the Kill Switch when activated does inhibit Cranking. "When kill switch is in the Off position the engine does not crank" - Sorry to be pedantic assume you Did have Ignition to ON when checking this? - Very Important for diagnosis, Please Check exactly this - Ignition ON, Kill Switch OFF, Press Starter Switch - Does the engine Crank ? Absolutely completely wrong that either Kill OR Ignition Switch doesn't stop the engine. HISS cannot cause the condition you have. Crazy to think a dealership would say such a thing! Questions.. - With the Engine Running. Then turn Off only the Ignition Switch (assume the engine continues to run). Do the Headlights go Off and the Instrument Panel go blank? - And with engine running, Sidestand Down, Clutch In shift to in Gear. Does the Engine immediately Stop as it should? - Can you identify any strange non OEM looking wiring anywhere on the bike, you'll need to remove a lot of plastic to check this? As possibly only a part of the fault. I'd be checking to see if the Bank Angle Sensor has been bypassed. Meaning its unplugged and the Red/Yellow wire is jumpered to the Green wire. Or the Red/Yellow wire simply Grounded. I think the bottom line here (at this stage!) is that the ESR is possibly staying energised when it obviously shouldn't. Hopefully!! a few voltage checks might find out Why.

Hi Grum Thank you for the reply Private sale, so no dealership. When kill switch is in the Off position the engine does not crank. It seems I need to start with Fuse C and the Engine Stop Relay. I will give feedback once I had the time to check this. Apparently the dealership that serviced the bike told the previous owner there is nothing wrong and that it is part off the HISS system. Yet another reason I don't trust dealerships anymore.

They are the Delkevic "X-oval" cans. I wanted something a little different than their round cans. They weren't listed as an application for the 6th Gen VFR on Delkevic's site, but most of their mufflers have the same inlet dimensions so I was going to mix/match parts. I then found the X-oval set as a VFR application on their eBay store. IMHO they do look a little better than the short round cans on the 6th Gen. They sound fantastic.

I was reading through the very useful thread below, but couldn't add to it, so I guess the best I can do is put it here, shame to split things up, but never mind! https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/83194-rear-brake-locking-after-pressing-pedal/ Some more photos of the mystery green valve. This is a relieving check valve. The mesh is critical because the relief orifice is 0.2mm or less and I think people might miss it, so I'm documenting it here, The photos show me removing it, note the orientation, balls up please.... 😉 Red silicone pipe in the outlet of the master cylinder and it hovers out with ease (bearing in mind my 25 year old bike is almost as new condition.... yours might not be so free!) Mesh on both sides, the unseen side has 2 tabs of different sizes to prevent it being put together wrong, as it's eccentric. The spring and ball can be seen. The other side sort of resembles a bottle cap and it pushes into a face groove and snaps down, I used a 0.5mm drill to lift a corner and got a small flat bladed under it as shown, it was still a bit tricky/delicate even with the flat driver to assist. Now shown around the 5.5mm mark on the metric ruler, you can just make out a tiny orifice, this is the relief port. It's so small I can measure it, but I think it is around 0.2mm maybe less. The smallest drill I have, is 0.35 so I can't clear it with a drill, in the end after searching though my wire brush drawer, one had bristles small enough, that were stiff enough not to break, if you break one in there, it's never coming out, be warned, be gentle, if the wire kinks, dont straighten it, remove it, throw it away, start again. I wouldn't advise drill bits or brass wire brushes for this reason, they are too easily snapped the hole is very deep, no doubt to add to it's restrictiveness. The bike is a barn find, very low mileage, very very good condition, its all very clean, but I pushed a slug a waxy looking something from that hole, hopefully this will resolve my issue as pressure was building up in the centre piston and was immediately released when I cracked the hose. The pressure went all the way back to here, then stopped across this plastic relieving check valve. Hopefully the photos and videos here will be immortalised forever, but if not, get in touch, or I keep them here: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/tfbghuds6mhf49210s78o/AME1iORZF4UJXQm3jKPyTjY?rlkey=kdw4ehnjmi1nuoimdw0ra4ifj&dl=0 20240417_223535.mp4 20240417_223419.mp4

To fix my lack of rear wheel a little research shows the disc mount for the 400 & 800 are common. So I have a stock 800 axle off with a local engineering firm to reduce its length & add a new threaded section to allow me to fit my refurbed custom cush drive & bought a stock wheel to use until my carbon one is repaired. Pics when I get it back.

"Wheel weight to be used later."

Saw Danno posted today on the ST-owners forum.... looks like he is busy working on getting a pilots license...

Even better with a coat of pearl white on the wheels 😉

Man that RWB paint scheme is the bomb. Nice job on the brackets. When I have my VTEC out on the road I usually just use one pannier. I'd considered getting some Delkevic cans for it so thanks for the info on clearance with the pannier mount!

Got some on order, will post when fitted.

How I used to test a 9 volt battery

Refit the ECT Sensor plug. Measure at the 10P Blue connector between the pin you've located as going to the ECT and the Green/Black (Ground ) wire pin also on the Blue 10P connector. WHAT RESISTANCE VALUE DO YOU MEASURE.? And just for a third time - care to give an answer to what was previously Asked? ......

What is the colour of the wire at the back of this pin (Red arrow) of the 10P Blue Instrument Panel Plug? This is the Temperature input from the ECT sensor. But wait there's more! Incase you need to check further........... Mapped out the PCB tracks and connection point for LCD Temperature Display. Just follow the Yellow Brick Road highlighting, (ignore red arrows and comments lower part of picture.)

8. So you're saying the Green/Blue from the ECT somwhere changes to a Blue/Gray at the Instrument Panel? AND that doesn't appear on the Pre or Post 99 Drawiings! AND if you look closely, unfortunately the colored drawing shows a Gray/Blue wire........That is incorrectly colored and is actually a Gray/Black (Gr/Bl) wire and goes to the Fuel Sender. However, with BOTH drawings there is NO reference to a Blue/Gray (Bu/Gr) wire amongst the 17 Instrument Panel wires? The ONLY two Blue (main wire color) wires at the Instrument Panel are a Blue/Red = Oil Pressure Light, and, Blue/Black = Hi Beam indicator Light. I don't have a 5th gen, never have, so I can only go by relevant drawings be they Right or Wrong!! So it's impossible for me to verify this Blue/Gray wire you talk of. 9. Go back and check I added the number 9 to that paragraph this morning to draw attention to it. "you sound very condescending no reason for that". Short memory mate, and yes I do have reasons. And still no mention that you have replaced the ECT. I hope you fitted a genuine OEM and not some Chinese cheapy! However, you've got tons of info provided which should hopefully resolve your issue, you just need to use it, along with the Service Manual and wiring diagram. Info - Wire coding and drawings.. Eg A Bu/Gr - Blue is the Main wire colour, Gray is its stripe being the trace. No trace = a solid color wire. See attached wire table. AND - I do mean it, Good Luck and hope you have it resolved soon.

And to avoid repeating myself yet again...... Refer Items 6,8 and 9 above! Info - Wire and trace colour at the ECT may have faded due to heat cycles.

I hope you got your off out of the way now and glad that it was minor.

Bad luck mate. A rather sore Muppet (your words not mine) I suspect. Lucky no major damage other than a slightly bent ego, but hey many of us have been there or just scraped through. I do recall that these V4s seem impossibly heavy once you've tipped beyond about 30 degrees. Hope the aches and pains ease quickly.

i agree the amount of rust in that tank is concerning. If that gets past the filter you're gonna have all kinds of FI issues. Not to mention the sealing surface for the sender O ring doesn't look very smooth. A couple different ways to approach that rust: electrolysis, and Evaporust/vinegar. I did my old Ninja tank with Evaporust, and a handful of drywall screws.

No local places will mount spoked wheels anymore. I ordered tires for my Sled from CycleGear 30 miles away with the plan of having them mount them. Two weeks for them to come in. I take the wheels off and show up to "the tire machine is down until at least next week." The kid gives me a card for a place another thirty minutes up the road. I call and then head that way thinking that I'll just get this over with. When I go to pick them up, I ask How much?. The kid looks at his partner who stumbles and then says $110. I pay them and head home. After fighting to get the rear on, I go to check the pressure and discover it is flat. I'm dropping the money for a Rabaconda. It's not just the money to be saved, it's also the hassle of people.

I would do as Grum suggested by running some fluid through to the secondary cylinder bleed valve just to confirm now that the problem is not in the master to secondary line. Even though it went smoothly when you did a fluid change, there is a small possibility of contamination working from the master down. It is only, what, a 10 minute job. If all okay there, remove, clean and grease the actuator rod and see if that solves the problem; sometimes grit gets onto the drive sprocket end. After that you are onto the RHS and the clutch itself, which frankly from your description seems unlikely.

If you are going to try that route, be sure to bend that damaged part of the bracket back down so it doesn't interfere with the fuel sender plate and prevent it from compressing the new o-ring as much as possible. Probably bend it down a little farther than it's original position, but still allow the flange to install. Fill the tank with a good amount of fuel and set it on some newspaper over night somewhere that possible fumes would be ok. You'll know if it leaks or not. And don't try and use any sealant, it won't help.

What color are you looking for? The US colors of red, blue and black are still available. Blue is cheaper and black is the most expensive. Some of the overseas colors are still available. Fowlers in the UK has a very easy to navigate site. https://us.fowlersparts.co.uk/ The exchange rate is bad for us at the moment, so the prices at Fowlers are high. I have found that getting the parts numbers for fairings from Fowlers, and then ordering from Japan works well. The site in Japan I have used multiple times is https://japan.webike.net/ Webike's site is a bit harder to navigate when browsing for available parts. That's why I find the part number on Fowlers and then plug it into the Webike site. Webike ships super fast and you have to pay extra for that. However, the exchange rate between the US and Japan is so good for us that the total price is typically reasonable. I have even found the price on some parts that are available at Partzilla can be cheaper when ordered from Webike and shipped over the Pacific. DHL is by far the best shipper they use. They are even sometimes the cheapest.

I would view the below as mileage items: Brake pads Chain and sprockets (keep lubed to ward off surface rust) Valve check - changes due to heat cycles and movement Time related: Oil Coolant Brake fluid Fork oil - 5 years? Clean electrical connectors - corrosion can still happen over time even without riding. Petrol tank - keep full to ward off rust and use fuel stabiliser. Injectors - can't hurt to use an injector cleaner to help keep them clean when riding. Tyres - after using 7 year old tyres I wouldn't again. Fit something sporty that will wear out before 5 years is reached. Get your moneys worth! Keep on stands to avoid flat spots. Battery - tender or swap in a battery from one of the others when you want to drive it, saves buying a battery that sits on a tender for most of its life. Mice protection - may not affect you, plug exhaust and airbox. Bodywork - keep covered with a soft cover even garaged. Detail and polish as the urge grabs you. ACF on metal fittings and fixings. Hoses - over time will get old and hard. Buy replacements now and hoard for later. Rear hub - may be prudent to strip and regrease and then move periodically to stop it seizing, grease gumming up (?) That's all I can think of right now but good advance thinking 👍

Thanks for the replies guys.. I figured either these VFR1200 parts are rare and sought after, or not at all in demand as sales were so low in the US.. At very least I figure the plastics and OEM panniers (blue) will sell easily when the time comes. Sorry for the missing pics on the locost build links- that website has some challenges.. Here are a few youtube links that will work better (at least to show my older build, the Honda N600/ VFR800): The actual fabrication on the above car is in slideshow form below (not my videos): The 'other' VFR800 build is my ongoing 1959 Berkeley (my tiny British car seen below with 2 different bodies).. it is a work in progress.. If you search 'ccrunner,' some pics and videos will pop up here and there.. thanks for your interest.. I'm really enjoying the challenges combining both a car and a bike to make a fun project.