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What's It Worth? Sell, Sit Or Part Out?


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So, I kind of touched on this on another topic I started about 2 weeks ago. My '93 VFR got a stuck float after sitting (w/ empty carbs) for 5 months while I was deployed. I got home June first and the float has stuck to varying degrees through 3 carb cleanings since then. I clean it, put it back together and synch the carbs and ride all day. Sits over night and the next morning it wont turn over.

I'm really tired of wrenching and the next 6-8 months will have me away for the majority of the time so there won't be much time to wrench on it. I haven't even touched it since I put it all back together. Problem? Stuck float lets gas fill the combustion chamber (cylinder #3) and the next morning when you go to start it up it'll lock up the engine and no start. Easy fix really, just a little time consuming.

I don't need the money but I don't need to be paying insurance and reg. on it when it's sitting. Also, the wife and daughter want a Grom or 250 something to learn on and my garage can't handle 3 bikes nor do I want to drop money on a bike when one is sitting in the garage not doing anything.

Anyway, whats it worth? Here's the details.

I found my VFR almost 2 years ago rotting away in someones back yard. Picked it up for $250 and started the resto. It had been sitting there for 5 years prior to me finding it so lots of time and work went into where she is today. Original color was white for '93 and this is what she looked like when I brought her home.

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The restoration pic.

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Mechanical stuff I'm decent at but I never did bodywork until I got this bike so it is not perfect. While everything is there and it looks great from 10 feet when you get up on it you can see where the plastic needs to be mended or where my painting skills/bondo skills suck. If I keep it I will be sending it to a pro and would probably drop $750 to make the bodywork/paint perfect.

Otherwise, it has 38000 miles. I rode it about 8000 miles last fall (I ride alot) before I deployed over the winter. It has fresh plugs, filter, oil/filter I did two weeks ago. As far as what I did to it last year when I restored it here is the list.

Full 2005 R1 front end (forks, wheel, discs, master, fender, wheel bearings and proper disc bolts)
CBR954 triple with new Honda head bearings. (it brakes and rides perfect but due to the triple parking lot turning radius does suck but is doable)

Fresh oil/seals and race tech 1.0k springs in the forks.
Jamie Daugherty CBR954 rear shock re-valved and sprung for a 220lb. rider
RK 530 gold chain
shorty levers (black w/ red adjuster)
Danmoto convertibars fully adjustable. (a little lower than stock clip-ons but still comfy)
SS HEL front brake lines.
UNI air filter
Volt meter
clock with air thermometer (battery operated gas station special)
Ricks R/R
VFRness (so there should be no electrical issues)
new YUASA battery as of June 10 2013
new carb boots. June 2 2013
gas tank was cleaned and coated.
All bodywork mended and painted (to the best of my ability)

all decals are from www.xtreemedecals.com.
New Airtech rear seat cowl.
new starter clutch

right side engine cover gasket

Emgo mirrors

Double Bubble dark tint wind screen.

It had the Cobra F1 pipe (slip on) when I found it and it works.

I also have a brand new Corbin ($440 new)and brand new Hepco Becker hard luggage mounts and bags ($890 new). But If someone wants the bike I'll probably sell those seperately. Both are new still in the box.

I also have the complete front end with fresh oil and seals installed.

Here's what she looks like as she sits.

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Honestly, I'm tired of fiddling with it. If I sold it years from now I'd probably regret it but for the next few years I won't/don't have the time and when I see it in the garage on the lift I get irritated.

I have no idea what to ask for it and it would be worth a decent amout parted out.



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Once you fix the float issue you are looking at around $2000 without the Corbin seat or $2500 with the new seat. It is doubtful that you would get that much if you parted it out since the bodywork isn't perfect. Most people who would buy an older VFR like that are looking for a clean original bike so your biggest market will be someone who can't afford a newer bike and is looking for a cheap but dependable daily ride. Parts availability will also be a big concern for anyone buying it.

Rollin

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What I have found with these type of bikes is that you need to find the right buyer. To some a rebuilt or non-stock bike is worth much less, however if the mods were done well and they are desirable to those in the know (as a lot of yours are), then the right buyer may very well pay what you want. I would suggest putting a price tag on that you would like to get and see what kind of interest you get. However fixing the carb issue before selling would be ideal.

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IMHO you will not get anywhere near what you put into it whether you sell all or part it out.

If you don't absolutely have to have the money now, I suggest to winterized it, cover it with a tarp and let it sit for a while until you get the tinkering bug back. And you know you will and will be pulling your hair out for having sold what is a 90% there bike for nex to nothing.

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install an gas ON/OFF switch in the line runing from the pump to the carbs..

problem solved!

and helps with anti theft too.. !!

run the baby till the float needle reseats its self..

dont sell it..

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I'd say to get any decent money out of it, it needs to be running. You said the float is sticking and have tried multiple times to fix it with carb rebuilds. Not sure what you really mean by sticking, but from my experience with older bikes, the float needle is most likely the culprit. If that hasn't been changed, it might be well worth 2 hrs of your time to put a new one in.

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Carbs never ending battle and now there talking about increasing alcohol by 5% more SALE IT .....

Had the same problem with my 4th gen with sticking carbs. Fixed it up nice with SS lines, shift kit, RaceTech fork internals, F4i front fairing. Sold it for cheap. I kicked myself for the money I put into it and for selling, but I would also be kicking myself for a bike that intermittently won't start or doesn't run right. I would rather be riding than working on my bike any day. Sometimes we have to eat our losses. Ask Timmy about his 500 if you can pull him away from the RC long enough.

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My sons 91 was doing the same thing. the carb parts are still available from Honda and the parts for the gaskets needles and seats only cost about $240.

It is a pain in the backside though.

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you can buy 4 k&l rebuild kits for 100 bucks.. but why bother? if you just replace the float needles you should be set to go.

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  • 2 weeks later...

left the bike in a friends garage for 3 months ,he started it a few times and run out of petrol ,fill the tank with 15 l

a week after good wheather,phone call ,lets take the bikes out,gear up bike doesn't start ,eventually runs on 2

cylinders ,took 2 hours to get it started,put green gas like they call it here in europe,fill it up with 98 oct never had

a problem any more,started the bike monday after a 6 weeks ,runs like it should

keep it

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It looks way too nice, and way too much work has gone into it to be parted out now. :ohmy:

Imho.

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Is this just another excuse for whoring out your pics again? :)

I hate to hear you are having such problems. But I know where you are coming from (I'm very close to wanting to sell mine too).

At least you have a title and a mostly running bike.

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Fix the needle, stick to Shell Optimax or another junk free fuel and ride it like you stole it. Mine's got about 55,000 miles on it, one of Jamie's re-valved and extended 929 rear shocks, CBR 600 F3 internals in the forks and is now being rebuilt for the second time (after being damaged by the shipping company/customs on the way to Canada).

If you're going to park it for any extended period (over a month) put in a fuel stabiliser, run it for a few minutes, turn off the fuel and run the carbs dry. Never had a problem once I stuck to that routine.

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Fix the needle, stick to Shell Optimax or another junk free fuel

^THIS!!^

Yesterday I decided... why am I still using 87 octane that most likely contains ethanol when I can use 94 Octane chevron fuel that I KNOW has no ethanol and only costs me a few dollars a tank more? I know my bike might even make a little less power on 94 octane but the advantages far outweigh the negatives. Besides... If I have to rebuild the carbs every year... parts and gaskets alone could end up costing more than the price difference in fuel.

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Firstly, thanks for your service! Being away long periods really is a factor, time is limited with family and time for yourself to do what you enjoy. If you enjoy the wrenching, keep it. Sounds to me that you are done wrenching and just want to throw a leg over and enjoy a trouble free ride. Ditch the bike, NEXT! Clean 5th and 6th Gens are out there for very reasonable prices. Enjoy your time singing in a helmet, not cursing in a garage.

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Fix the needle, stick to Shell Optimax or another junk free fuel

^THIS!!^

Yesterday I decided... why am I still using 87 octane that most likely contains ethanol when I can use 94 Octane chevron fuel that I KNOW has no ethanol and only costs me a few dollars a tank more? I know my bike might even make a little less power on 94 octane but the advantages far outweigh the negatives. Besides... If I have to rebuild the carbs every year... parts and gaskets alone could end up costing more than the price difference in fuel.

In the U.S, its near impossible to buy normal fuel theses days, without ethonal, there may be a couple states where it can be had, But the U.S fuel map says 98% only crap fuel is available. You can buy aftermarket fuel, but its normal $15 per gallon , not practical for everyday use.

By the way, since my small engines, lawnmowers and weed eaters fuel systems have been failing every couple of years, I only run pure leaded race fuel in them, the vfr is also on a modified diet.

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Is this just another excuse for whoring out your pics again? :)

I hate to hear you are having such problems. But I know where you are coming from (I'm very close to wanting to sell mine too).

At least you have a title and a mostly running bike.

Hahah! Maybe.

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Well was in simaliar situation as yourself. I have a 93 that has seen better days and needed a real cash infusion to get it to where I want it. So I just purchased a 05 Vtec 14k miles that has factory bags and a corbin w/ backrest. It looks great in silver and rides fantastic to boot. Hell I haven't even got tags on it yet but I am happy a clam with the purchase. 12 yrs makes a big difference in a vehicle. its more than i can want no major fiddling and more miles or road for me to enjoy. Now what to do with the 93, I am not sure on this. the wife wants it sold but I wont get much from it and it is pretty much stock w/ broken bodywork did find a twin clicker for it though. mabey sell it or drain fuel and park it in a dark corner of the shop till i feel like messing with it again. so in the end do what feels right to you and live with that choice. mabey this isn't helpful but oh well i am going riding.

here is a few of my white whale don't have any of the silver fox yet

andrew

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  • 2 weeks later...

Two years ago I had similar problem with an old CB 750 Nighthawk. I went through all sorts of exercise to correct my flooding problems. I finally benched may carbs, ID which crabs was messing up, and in the end I changed two sets of needles and jets. Prior to solving the problem I installed an inline fuel shut-off valve, yet I still found it necessary to replace two sets of needles and seats. My flooding was really bad, too the extend it would leak and run into my air box, which in my opinion was a fire hazard, meaning it could cause a fire in a closed garage. I didn't want this to happen to me, or any potential buyer. My problem was so serious I considered it to be liability! So I had to fix the problem, or completely drain my fuel system.

I tried to sell the bike as is, but I couldn't get nearly want the bike was really worth. My bike had been sitting in a California garage covered with no dents or noncable scratches, and it had less than 24,000 original miles. I fixed the problem, detailed the bike, and I got $1750.00. At the time I sold the bike it look fantastic, and it ran as good as it looked. In the end my customer was happy, and he's still riding the bike.

Summary: Spend a few hours, fix your fuel leakage problems, drink a few beers, post the bike for a slow sale, be patient, and you'll get more for a properly running bike.

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