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smackdoogle

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About smackdoogle

  • Birthday 06/07/1979

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  • Location
    MD
  • In My Garage:
    98 VFR800

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  1. I'll be in touch for a set in another month or two. Going to Superhawk lowers this winter.
  2. I've found that in bikes reaching 20 years old a lot of the time the clutch springs tend to get weak. $10 for some EBC heavy duty clutch springs are the first thing to change after doing the clutch fluid change out. Clutch springs are super easy to change and most of the time, they take care of the slippage you speak of that occurs higher in the rev range.
  3. I've used Rotella T6 in all my bikes including 3 vfr's. It meets the jaso-ma2 rating and is fine with our wet clutches. Saying that, if you have any doubts just go with any good motorcycle specific oil. I'm a firm believer that its more important to change the oil and filter on a regular basis than the specific brand name. Many like the rotella dino oil also.
  4. Very nice! I was there this last weekend. I wish I had more time to spend but I got as many pics as I could.
  5. So, knowing that it's all ugly going into it makes the decision easier I think. I have a Rigid Tool Chest as a top case (I like that it's very tough and unique. I think if it flew off the bike it'd be fine.). I use soft luggage for the side bags when traveling and a 46L dry bag over the passenger seat. It works and is very cheap.
  6. smackdoogle

    SailorJack

    '98 at the top of WV
  7. yeah, oil is out.
  8. Yes Sir, that is correct, plugs out and I can turn the engine about 2 times and then it locks. I have a bad feeling about either a bent rod or valve. I'll mess around with it a little later this week but if it seems as either of those are the problem I think it'll be part-out time.
  9. Did some more checks today. Jumped the starter solenoid and nothing. Tried to turn the engine by hand and I was able to turn it through twice before it locks up so........something is locking up the engine. Great, time to find out what I guess.
  10. Garage time today sucked. I was cussing within the first 30 minutes and now I'm stumped. I'm getting the starter solenoid click when I try to turn it over. I did a load test on the battery (dealer did the test) and it checked out fine. I pulled the plugs to see if it would turn over with them out and nothing, just the solenoid click. The carbs are still off, I rebuilt those with new jets and float seats and needles. I don't even know what to check next. I'm getting tired of putting money into it. I'm worried that when it first hydrolocked due to the leaking float needle it may have messed something bigger up inside. Suggestions?
  11. Hahaha, sure you have dibs. I really don't see myself selling it though. It's been on my table lift since I first posted. Time has been hard to find but I've been getting closer and closer. I bought new jets and new float needles and seats so we'll see how that goes. Right now I'm busy messing with a brand new YUASA battery that doesn't want to hold a charge. Brought it back to the dealer I bought it from to have them test it and see what's what. Slowly but surely she'll get back on the road. My wife says I will keep it and start my Honda V4 collection. We'll see.
  12. So, I kind of touched on this on another topic I started about 2 weeks ago. My '93 VFR got a stuck float after sitting (w/ empty carbs) for 5 months while I was deployed. I got home June first and the float has stuck to varying degrees through 3 carb cleanings since then. I clean it, put it back together and synch the carbs and ride all day. Sits over night and the next morning it wont turn over. I'm really tired of wrenching and the next 6-8 months will have me away for the majority of the time so there won't be much time to wrench on it. I haven't even touched it since I put it all back together. Problem? Stuck float lets gas fill the combustion chamber (cylinder #3) and the next morning when you go to start it up it'll lock up the engine and no start. Easy fix really, just a little time consuming. I don't need the money but I don't need to be paying insurance and reg. on it when it's sitting. Also, the wife and daughter want a Grom or 250 something to learn on and my garage can't handle 3 bikes nor do I want to drop money on a bike when one is sitting in the garage not doing anything. Anyway, whats it worth? Here's the details. I found my VFR almost 2 years ago rotting away in someones back yard. Picked it up for $250 and started the resto. It had been sitting there for 5 years prior to me finding it so lots of time and work went into where she is today. Original color was white for '93 and this is what she looked like when I brought her home. The restoration pic. Mechanical stuff I'm decent at but I never did bodywork until I got this bike so it is not perfect. While everything is there and it looks great from 10 feet when you get up on it you can see where the plastic needs to be mended or where my painting skills/bondo skills suck. If I keep it I will be sending it to a pro and would probably drop $750 to make the bodywork/paint perfect. Otherwise, it has 38000 miles. I rode it about 8000 miles last fall (I ride alot) before I deployed over the winter. It has fresh plugs, filter, oil/filter I did two weeks ago. As far as what I did to it last year when I restored it here is the list. Full 2005 R1 front end (forks, wheel, discs, master, fender, wheel bearings and proper disc bolts) CBR954 triple with new Honda head bearings. (it brakes and rides perfect but due to the triple parking lot turning radius does suck but is doable) Fresh oil/seals and race tech 1.0k springs in the forks. Jamie Daugherty CBR954 rear shock re-valved and sprung for a 220lb. rider RK 530 gold chain shorty levers (black w/ red adjuster) Danmoto convertibars fully adjustable. (a little lower than stock clip-ons but still comfy) SS HEL front brake lines. UNI air filter Volt meter clock with air thermometer (battery operated gas station special) Ricks R/R VFRness (so there should be no electrical issues) new YUASA battery as of June 10 2013 new carb boots. June 2 2013 gas tank was cleaned and coated. All bodywork mended and painted (to the best of my ability) all decals are from www.xtreemedecals.com. New Airtech rear seat cowl. new starter clutch right side engine cover gasket Emgo mirrors Double Bubble dark tint wind screen. It had the Cobra F1 pipe (slip on) when I found it and it works. I also have a brand new Corbin ($440 new)and brand new Hepco Becker hard luggage mounts and bags ($890 new). But If someone wants the bike I'll probably sell those seperately. Both are new still in the box. I also have the complete front end with fresh oil and seals installed. Here's what she looks like as she sits. Honestly, I'm tired of fiddling with it. If I sold it years from now I'd probably regret it but for the next few years I won't/don't have the time and when I see it in the garage on the lift I get irritated. I have no idea what to ask for it and it would be worth a decent amout parted out.
  13. Thanks for the info. I order the mounts and sidecases form Moto Machines for those of you in the US who are interested. They aint cheap though!!! Here are the side cases I got. I'm going to paint the panels to match my VFR. http://www.motomachines.com/Junior-Flash-30-Side-Case-Set_p_183.html
  14. Wow! So clean and nice. I want to ride it just to see how it feels compared to mine (which was found rotting in someones yard). I would recommend just getting a VFRness now and a new R/R. Mine died at 31000.
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