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dalesvfr

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Everything posted by dalesvfr

  1. I didn't say crossing a border. I know people who rode trails or toured Alaska and have used a bleach jug. I didn't say I condone it recommend it or plan on doing it, but when you have a two hundred mile stretch between gas stations the next day and you only have a 170 mile tank range, you do what you do. http://www.cycleworld.com/2014/05/21/tips-for-carrying-spare-gas-on-the-trails/ My point was there are alternatives to that monstrosity on page two. A Rotopax would be my choice.
  2. I wouldn't do it - people who've toured Alaska on KLRs and BMW GS's and such do it. Probably not a lot of DOT checking for it up there.
  3. Why wouldn't you just get a couple of Rotopax fuel packs and the mount for a Givi type rack? Or do what folks did in the old days - use one gallon bleach bottles (because they are usually the thickest).
  4. How'd you get the drive all to your lonesome?
  5. In reference to the Lanolin based stuff - I just discovered Fluid Film. Lanolin, non toxic, non drying, totally organic. I just undercoated my truck with it as the other stuff I've used like rust converting paints just hardens and chips off. I had a bike with a very dried out paint job, McGuires polishing compound and wax had little effect on the fine spider cracking you could see. Decided to try the Fluid Film and it looked great. Fine on plastic and rubber too. On the can they say it is a chain lube as well, but I didn't go there as I have chain wax already.
  6. So some techs in flip flops show up with a motor in a cool Toyota van (that I wish we could get here in the US) and do a back alley transplant? AWESOME! It reminds me of a Top Gear episode where they ride scooters through Thailand and one of them gets a new/used Vespa motor tossed in by some guys squatting in the mud chain smoking Marlboros. Congrats on making Honda fess up. Since they've started adding freight and setup to all of our bikes here in the US they should have lots of cash laying around to stand by their products. Interesting that they didn't come in a Honda van.
  7. Why did you take the top of the triple tree off to reroute hoses? On second thought, that sounds easier than disconnecting the throttle cable at the linkage and bleeding the clutch out like I did. I used 919 bars which are a touch higher but narrower as well. Only advantage is they are predrilled for a Honda.
  8. I have the LED one from ADV. The LED unit is cockeyed in the casing so when I look down at it (when I can see it in the sunlight) it's crooked. Oh well, at least I know my operating voltage, or an approximation thereof.
  9. I have the LSL bar conversion so a short arm and RAM mount for 7/8 inch bar and a cigar lighter that mounts to that bar works great. Mine slightly covers the speedo but the GPS speedo is WAAYYY more accurate, so I don't worry about it.
  10. I have the Laminar Lip and a Givi. The Lip puts the buffeting right at my head and the noise is deafening, the Givi puts the blast a little lower which works better for clean air around my head. At the moment I prefer the Givi, I'm about 5'6" with a 30 inch inseam and have raised my bars so I'm a bit upright. What I really miss is the electric screen from my Burgman, a Clearview extra large with Goldwing vent. Put the screen up, lift your visor for fresh air and ZERO noise or buffeting.
  11. My bike had stock Honda with Laminar Lip and a Givi when I bought it. I have switched back and forth a few times and have left the stock with lam lip on. Quite a bit of buffeting for me either way above 60mph. Midlife on here has the Vario mounted UPSIDE DOWN on a stock screen and said it works well for him.
  12. "I'm looking for the highest possible bar, but without replacing the cables and tubes" That would be the bar from a Honda 599/919 (Hornet). They are tallest, most pulled back but slightly narrower. The bad part is you can't buy just the LSL block and riser by itself, so you'll have an extra bar sitting around, or you can resell. Bonus on the Honda part is that it is predrilled for the indexing pins on your switchgear. You will still have to reroute the clutch cable behind the fork tube necessitating a fluid flush, the throttle cables need to be routed behind the tube which were easiest for me to disconnect at throttle body, and you'll have to adjust your right brake fluid hose by adjusting the banjo bolt (keep thick towels over your tank and paint so nothing get's spilled or dropped.
  13. Going a tooth up on the front is like losing three or four on the rear, with no chain change and a lower cost. I'd look down that avenue - first is probably so low it doesn't matter anyway. I don't know what the Rebel (and Nighthawk?) came with, if it came with a 15 tooth go up to a 16 tooth and that will make the engine a little less busy. Sunstar probably has a sprocket for $20ish.
  14. They don't use any power (if they do it is negligible), they are essentially a switch. This page gives a good description of how-to: http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html Again, this is the cheapest way to do it. You'll have to have wire and crimps and such on hand though.
  15. You need to add a switched relay, usually taken off the power to the tail light or front running lights. You can buy a relay at Radio Shack or go for a Fuzeblock brand distribution block. It makes life easy.
  16. I like the Powerlet stuff, although it is pricy. I just put the bar mount BMW style on my CRF direct wired to the battery so I could backfeed with the Battery Tender. It didn't come with anywhere near enough wire, so I had to solder a couple of feet in. Then there is a male and female plug about a foot off the outlet but the rubber boot that covers it faces the wrong way so water could collect in it. I didn't realize until after everything was soldered, taped, routed etc and I didn't feel like cutting it up again so I just packed the connection with electrical grease. I've had Burgman scooters with cigarette sockets in the glove box - you would think this stuff would become standard by now.
  17. I did the LSL riser because it gives the option to go back to stock or Heli risers without sourcing a new top clamp. I suppose you could just put some type of plug in the holes though....Honda 599/919 bars worked for me as they were already punched for the indexing pin on the switch gear and the bars that came with the kit from Spiegler were still too low for me. I had to reroute clutch hose behind forktube so bleeding is required, and the throttle cable was disconnected at throttle body and rerouted as well. I like having a 7/8 bar to mount GPS, power outlet and controller for Gerbing jacket.
  18. Great trip! Curious what the charging glitch was, as it seemed to not repeat itself...love the shots of maple leaves - they look enormous!
  19. Yeah, you're correct in that it's the T6 I purchased at Walmart. And I just checked the Sam's website, it's only the T they carry in case packs. I don't know when you bought it but it's $21 and change in the jug at Walmart.
  20. I used a Bosch 3323 Distance Plus from Walmart with Rotella T oil. Not cheap and a tight fit but it's filter specs are about the best you can get. I plan on leaving it on next oil change as it's supposed to hold much more crud than a regular filter. And if you're near a Sam's Club, they have a couple of different case packs of Rotella T oil for about $12 and change a gallon which is really good. I plan on picking some up.
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